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Old 10-17-2012, 09:09 PM   #1
supershaft OP
because I can
 
Joined: Sep 2010
Location: San Francisco Bay area
Oddometer: 8,807
I got my 'combat scrambler' back on the road!

It's been 13+ months since my shock stud snapped. I got a lot of kind words of support and some cold hard cash to boot although I still wish Norton Lory never did that donation thing. Nevertheless! The money has helped! Thank you again everybody!

It's been too long since I rode it last. My butt dyno is a bit out of practice but with 200 miles on my rebuild the thing is definately not running worse! It goes through the first three gears and 105mph pretty quick! 99 and 99.5 leak down at 200 miles (that is not going to happen if you don't stagger your ring gaps OR break it in like you are 'suppose' to). The valves are not leaking one bit thank you very much robtg! The rest of his machine work was top notch too! I revved it to over 8k at about 150 miles on the new top end. I started with 145 mains just to be safe and I am already back down to 135's! I was hoping for ten more hp and I think I am close. Not bad since I already got a lot of the easy gains with my carbs and cam.

Thanks again everybody! I am going for a ride right now. I am still figuring out wear to run my valve lash with my super beefy 4130 pushrods.
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Old 10-17-2012, 09:14 PM   #2
RecycledRS
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Location: Vancouver Island
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Good to hear your back two wheelin. Try and keep those wheels under you
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Old 10-18-2012, 12:48 PM   #3
Beater
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Location: Atlanta, GA, USA
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Pic's or it didn't happen

PS - Glad you're back in the saddle
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'85 R80RT G/Sified <|> '91 R100GS Bumblebee (103K miles and climbing) <|> '73 R75/5 LWB
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Old 10-18-2012, 03:13 PM   #4
supershaft OP
because I can
 
Joined: Sep 2010
Location: San Francisco Bay area
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Sorry beater. Still no pics.

I am going to have to run my cold valve lash a little bit in the negative in order to keep my lash where I want it when it's hot. I am thinking it will still start just fine.

I don't think my valves are floating with those heavy pushrods but I am not positive about it just yet. IMO, that is easier to monitor in third and forth (I have still never run it up in fifth but I don't want a 135mph speeding ticket. Third and fourth are a little to well over the ton as it is. Plus I have a slightly bent front wheel. I am sending off a spare to be straightened today or tomorrow. It is still a work in progress at this stage but all is looking good.
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Old 10-18-2012, 07:53 PM   #5
Bigger Al
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Good to hear the bike is back on the road!

The next project should be a simple digital camera and tutorial on how to post up your pics.
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Old 10-19-2012, 06:35 AM   #6
hardwaregrrl
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Way to go Billy!!!! Glad you're back where you belong!
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Old 10-19-2012, 07:17 AM   #7
Airhead Wrangler
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Location: Back in Seattle, FINALLY
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Welcome back! Just curious, what was the fix for that snapped stud? New final drive or did you weld a mount onto the swingarm? I've never been a fan of the design for the lower shock mounts on the mono road bikes or 1st gen paralevers. I'm guessing you probably aren't a fan now either.
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Old 10-19-2012, 03:15 PM   #8
supershaft OP
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Location: San Francisco Bay area
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Airhead Wrangler View Post
Welcome back! Just curious, what was the fix for that snapped stud? New final drive or did you weld a mount onto the swingarm? I've never been a fan of the design for the lower shock mounts on the mono road bikes or 1st gen paralevers. I'm guessing you probably aren't a fan now either.
For right now I just have the stock setup back in there. I drilled and extracted the stud no problem. I got the new stud in a matter of days through SF BMW. No damage to the FD at all excepting a broken off fin and some muff marks that I smoothed out with a die grinder. Most of them you don't even notice with the shock and muffler back on.

The only improvement I can figure to make is to make the inside part of the stud 15mm versus 10mm. That inside junction from 15mm back down to 10mm is right where it broke.

I can't see any advantages between any of the stud setups that I have looked at other than sharing the load with two shocks versus one?

Now that I am thinking about it I think I am going to double check and make sure the 15mm ID portion of the FD didn't get wallered out at all. That stud needs the support through there! I have a number of spare FD's so I am no worse for wear either way.

supershaft screwed with this post 10-19-2012 at 03:23 PM
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Old 10-21-2012, 07:13 PM   #9
supershaft OP
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When I get my straightened front wheel on I am going to make some airbox setup experiments. Now that it's running much stronger everywhere for the higher CR, bigger intake valves, dual plugging, remapped advance curve, port work, and maybe even my monster 4130 pushrods, I think I can afford to gain a bit on top for a loss down lower. It's all a bit of a guess right now since I am trying to monitor too many things at once but it seems like I am running out of air at top rpm more so than before the mods. My hunch makes sense since it is making more torque everywhere and peak air intake goes hand in hand with and in direct proportion to peak torque. I finally might have outgrown my almost stock box? It won't take too long to find out since I have many modified setups waiting to re-test. I am going to try shorter velocity stacks too. We'll see. I certainly won't give up too much for peak hp. Peak hp? First you have to GET to peak hp!
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Old 10-21-2012, 07:46 PM   #10
RecycledRS
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Take some pictures
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Old 10-22-2012, 05:22 AM   #11
craydds
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Location: Las Cruces, NM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Beater View Post
Pic's or it didn't happen.
Supershaft, find a local inmate who can make some pictures and post them for us. We want to see your bike!
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Old 10-22-2012, 05:31 AM   #12
ontic
 
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Location: Melbourne
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Congrats on getting back on the road SS but it's about time you learned to post photos. Cheap digi camera, even just a camera phone, this stuff is so old now you can pick up something decent for next to nothing (or indeed for nothing). Any number of us can run you step by step how to upload your images to a hosting site and then post them here.
Stay safe
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Old 10-22-2012, 10:15 AM   #13
Uncle Pollo
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Oddometer: 47,473
Ss find a 12 year old kid with a smartphpne and give him 5 bucls to ppst pics pf your rig.
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Old 10-22-2012, 10:47 PM   #14
supershaft OP
because I can
 
Joined: Sep 2010
Location: San Francisco Bay area
Oddometer: 8,807
Thanks guys. I have a camera. I bought it a few years back. First one I have ever owned. Now I need to start taking pictures for starters. I took some pictures of a MV 150 that I fixed. They are still in my camera. I have felt the erge once or twice now but don't hold your breath.
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Old 10-29-2012, 07:37 PM   #15
supershaft OP
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Well, a local inmate is going to show me how to do pics some time soon.

I just cracked the throttle open in first at about 3000rpm. At around 5k the front end came up and stayed up until I let off for second. No bumps or anything. Just a pure 100% power wheelie. Remember that with my CR tranny my first is almost as tall as a normal tranny's second gear. Out on the hiway at 90mph with fast traffic and you want to get around some cars? Crack open the throttle and you are going 120 lickity split. I LOVE it!

It idles different with the higher compression ratio. There's a lot more boom in every pop.

Some admirers of my bike in SF called it a 'cafe racer'. Cafe racer? Cabriolet poser? No. I had to tell them that my bike is a TT racer. That can stand for Tourist Trophy racer or Tavern to Tavern racer. Take your pick!

supershaft screwed with this post 10-29-2012 at 08:01 PM
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