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Old 01-01-2013, 03:44 PM   #181
ebrabaek OP
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Location: El Paso,NM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by runnin4melife View Post
But should I buy it?
My personal opinion is yes, as the tests I and several others have done concludes that the charging voltage is too low. The Shendigan is a safe bet. I think that the series regulator is better for the stator, but as the charging system is then changed from a shunt style to a series style system, more long term testing is needed... imho. This will help the stator a little bit, as it raises the voltage, by about 0.5 volts, thus taking that draw off the stator.
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Old 01-01-2013, 03:50 PM   #182
runnin4melife
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Sounds good enough for me, Also I am playing with the emoticons more than anything, I just thought that was funny. I plan on ordering one in a month or two.
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Old 01-01-2013, 04:12 PM   #183
ebrabaek OP
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Originally Posted by runnin4melife View Post
Sounds good enough for me, Also I am playing with the emoticons more than anything, I just thought that was funny. I plan on ordering one in a month or two.
He he..... Nothing wrong with that. I think it is good insurance, as mine have been trouble free since the install.
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Old 01-02-2013, 09:41 AM   #184
Gangplank
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Thinking about one in the next few months as well. Right now my bike is soooo burried in a full garage I can't even get to it to change the oil. :-( :shake
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Old 02-16-2013, 11:35 AM   #185
fernan_ci
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Excelent post, I had problem with my regulator too and I bought Shindengen mosfet fh020aa F800GS kit to Jhammer HERE (all perfect with him)

Now Iīm going to install it and I would like to keep original connectors, so If I didnīt understad bad, this is the original regulator.





And, should be something like this???





Is this correct???? or should I install the fuse too????
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Old 02-16-2013, 11:52 AM   #186
ebrabaek OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fernan_ci View Post
Excelent post, I had problem with my regulator too and I bought Shindengen mosfet fh020aa F800GS kit to Jhammer HERE (all perfect with him)

Now Iīm going to install it and I would like to keep original connectors, so If I didnīt understad bad, this is the original regulator.





And, should be something like this???





Is this correct???? or should I install the fuse too????
This is correct. The fuse is up to you. You don't loose anything, perhaps except for the aesthetics. Meaning that the fuse is big, and do not add in the looks department. But for safety, I added mine, as it will catch any short that finds it's way back to the r/r. Fuses are a good thing, as they take up little space, and add another level of protection. They usually don't blow, unless something goes wrong. If the new R/R shorts out, rather than your battery shorts, or perhaps canbus disengaging, the fuse will just blow. I fly airplanes for a living, and have been saved many times by fuses ( Circuit breakers), as each circuit needs one.... or two.....
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Old 02-16-2013, 12:04 PM   #187
fernan_ci
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Thanks for your fast reply ebrabaek. Iīll install the fuse too
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Old 02-16-2013, 12:04 PM   #188
ragtoplvr
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The Sindigen regulators are very reliable. A fuse will prevent a failure from making more problems. The fuse is optional. It is one more thing to give trouble. These things are not normally fused. OE was not fused.

Note I did not give an answer, I stated the issues. Your call, they work well both ways.

Rod
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Old 02-16-2013, 01:44 PM   #189
ebrabaek OP
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Originally Posted by ragtoplvr View Post
The Sindigen regulators are very reliable. A fuse will prevent a failure from making more problems. The fuse is optional. It is one more thing to give trouble. These things are not normally fused. OE was not fused.

Note I did not give an answer, I stated the issues. Your call, they work well both ways.

Rod
I agree, and perhaps my reply sounded like if the Shendigan gives up the ghost.... I should have said, if anything shorts.... Like wires chafing, due to vibration..... off-roading....etc. Anything can short out.... some things easier than other..... Mine is still going full tilt, with no issues.
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Old 02-16-2013, 03:18 PM   #190
fernan_ci
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Thanks guys, I finished all and itīs ready to install on the bike (tomorrow). Should be just plug and play





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Old 02-17-2013, 07:33 AM   #191
JRWooden
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What diameter/gauge of wires are you using for your lead set?

In the original design I think they used two strands of 1.25mm diameter wire each for the red & black,
(Here in the USA that would be roughly 2 x 16 gauge)

and 2.0mm for the three yellow stator wires
(Here in the USA that would be roughly 12 gauge)

You do NOT want anything smaller than OEM, and larger would be Better!
For single strand I would use at least 12 gauge / 2.0mm for all connections...

Just bringing this up as I can not judge the size of your wiring from the picture....

PS: This is the chart I used to convert wire sizes, it should be accurate:
http://www.technick.net/public/code/..._awg_to_metric

JRWooden screwed with this post 02-17-2013 at 07:40 AM
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Old 02-17-2013, 07:42 AM   #192
fernan_ci
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JRWooden View Post
What diameter/gauge of wires are you using for your lead set?

In the original design I think they used two strands of 1.25mm diameter wire each for the red & black,
(Here in the USA that would be roughly 2 x 16 gauge)

and 2.0mm for the three yellow stator wires
(Here in the USA that would be roughly 12 gauge)

You do NOT want anything smaller than OEM, and larger would be Better!
For single strand I would use at least 12 gauge / 2.0mm for all connections...

Just bringing this up as I can not judge the size of your wiring from the picture....
The 3 yellow ones are original from BMW regulator (I donīt know the diameter) , and red and black ones for the other connector are the ones from the "kit", are wider than yellow ones (they are marked as 10 gauge)

You can check it here: http://motoelectrixcom.myshopify.com...-f700gs-f800gs

KIT INCLUDES
* WEATHER PROOF CONNECTORS FOR SHINDENGEN REGULATORS
*COMPLETE INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS WITH PICTURES
*WEATHER PROOF MAXI FUSE HOLDER
*30Amp MAXI FUSE
*3 FT OF 10 GAUGE COPPER MULTI STRANDED WIRE RED
*3 FT OF 10 GAUGE COPPER MULTI STRANDED WIRE BLACK
*2 RING TERMINAL 3M (POS. RING TERMINAL W/HEAT SHRINK END) BARE TERMINAL FOR GROUND
*1 LASER CUT BLACK ANODIZED BRACKET 1/8" THICK MADE OF T6061 ALUMINUM, TO MOUNT THE R/R IN OEM LOCATION
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Old 02-17-2013, 07:53 AM   #193
fernan_ci
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How it fits to my bike



Before at idle (red led on the pannel=not charging)



Now the led itīs green, all working perfect!!!!

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Old 02-17-2013, 08:07 AM   #194
ebrabaek OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fernan_ci View Post
How it fits to my bike



Before at idle (red led on the pannel=not charging)



Now the led itīs green, all working perfect!!!!

Fantaboulistic....... Looks real good. JHammer, put a good kit together. So if I understand this correct, your R/R was bad, as indicating by the red charge light, and low voltage, and the new R/R fixed it. This is the first stock R/R I have seen go bad, at least to the best of my recollection. What did it raise the charging voltage to..... Just curious.??? I suppose your bike will have many great rides ahead. Great job....
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Old 02-17-2013, 09:38 AM   #195
JRWooden
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Originally Posted by fernan_ci View Post
Thanks for the link!
10 Gauge is great, one size over OEM should enhance performance a bit!
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