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Old 04-13-2012, 06:35 PM   #16
ebrabaek OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by grndzr0 View Post
Awesome!!!! Thanks a bunch man!!!

Ryan
Yeppers Ryan....

Erling
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Old 04-13-2012, 08:48 PM   #17
Indy Unlimited
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Great work Ebrabaek!

Just wondering why we could not just cut the wires at the stock RR and solder those to the new connectors and mount the MOFSET to the bracket?
That would be a very easy install?

Thans for a great job!
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Old 04-13-2012, 10:07 PM   #18
ebrabaek OP
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Originally Posted by Indy Unlimited View Post
Great work Ebrabaek!

Just wondering why we could not just cut the wires at the stock RR and solder those to the new connectors and mount the MOFSET to the bracket?
That would be a very easy install?

Thans for a great job!
You could.... with no issues..... I just wanted to keep the stock R/R intact.... This way if it did not work.... It would be easy to plug it right back in...... Another thing.... I can put the old one up for graps....since it is intact. Another thought is I like to save the cut wires ...although heat sink tubed....to the back of the install. Either way would work. If you used the stock mounting bracket with this particular R/R.... the positive wire would be very close to the case... About 3-4mm..... It would work.... But I like this mounting position a bit better, but again either will work.....

Erling
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Old 04-13-2012, 11:37 PM   #19
WayneC1
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The F & G Series singles use the same VR as the F8 & I posted details over in Joel's thread

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showp...&postcount=173

What markings are on the VR you purchased ?. Would be interested if you could provide it

The one which I considered as a replacement with good overhead on spec was the shindengen FH019
which has 50 amp capability & seems the same packaging dimensions but have not seen any at retail level

http://www.shindengen.co.jp/product_...o/catalog.html
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Old 04-13-2012, 11:43 PM   #20
ebrabaek OP
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There are no marks on the R/R that I purchased.... But this is from the ebay site from where I purchased it.....

SHINDENGEN MOSFET FH012AA REGULATOR/RECTIFIER12V

Note: later this year Shindengen will be replacing this regulator with a updated version, the new part number will be FH020AA the updated version will replace the former FH012AA. The updated version is physically the same size only minor changes have been made to the heat sink casting.

KIT INCLUDES
* WEATHER PROOF CONNECTORS FOR SHINDENGEN REGULATORS
*COMPLETE INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS WITH PICTURES
*WEATHERPROOF MAXI FUSE HOLDER
(MAXI FUSE HOLDER HAS 10GAUGE WIRE AND CAN HANDLE 55AMPS)

*30A MAXI FUSE (BUSS BRAND)

*3 FT OF 10 GAUGE PRIMARY WIRE RED
*3 FT OF 10 GAUGE PRIMARY WIRE BLACK
* RING TERMINALS 3M (POS. RING TERMINAL W/ HEAT SHRINK END)
* 4 3M BUTT SPLICE CONNECTORS (W/HEAT SHRINK ENDS)

This is a universal regulator/rectifier kit and charging system upgrade kit.
The kit can be used to upgrade most 2 wire and 3 wire stator systems.
This voltage regulator is great for replacing existing undersized or obsolete regulators.
The advanced MOSFET construction will run cooler than all OEM diode style regulators.
In addition, this rectifier has overheat protection, rather than burn up it will simply turn off for a while and cool off.
This regulator is capable of 50amps continuous 3 phase and 30amp single phase.


Maxi fuse protected, unlike circuit breakers which over time can get weak and be prone to nuisance tripping.

(NOTE)Not for motorcycles with 5 wire stators in which 2 of them are for brushes.

For your reference the mounting center to center is 67.5mm to 72.5mm using 6mm bolts the bolt center could be filled wider or a adapter plate could be made for other mounting applications.


Often the stator has failed and the regulator gets the blame. A stator is difficult to check completely as they often fail only when hot.
These simple checks will find some bad stators, but a stator that passes these checks may still be defective.

1. Check the resistance between the leads, this is normally under 1 or 2 ohms. If you have a 3 phase stator, the resistance between each of the 3 lead combination's (AB,AC,BC) should be equal. If you see higher resistance, or unequal resistances, the stator is bad.
2. Check the resistance to ground, it should be well over 10 Meg ohm.

Battery condition is important. No regulator can make up for a bad or weak battery.
If in doubt charge your battery and have it load tested, or simply replace it.
ALWAYS START WITH A FULLY CHARGED BATTERY

I also sell this with the connectors only LINK BELOW:


Shindengen regulator w/connectors


Visit My eBay Store: MOTO-ELECTRIX

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Old 04-13-2012, 11:48 PM   #21
ebrabaek OP
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I will mount the unit in the am......and do a few on the road tests. and post the results... But what I have seen so far is promising. In recap.... I was told this is a mosfet shunt R/R with Japan as origin.... Until tomorrow.......

Erling
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Old 04-14-2012, 01:28 AM   #22
WayneC1
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Interesting on the AA designation, the Shindengen is japanese but unless they have upgraded the unit the fleabay seller is a bit liberal with the spec.

Would be good to get the actual spec document from Shindengen. I cant see it online at their web site

All up though, none of the F650 single users have reported problems or failures so your change should work very well
I noticed a while back the F8's have far better cooling to the VR than the stock locations on the single
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Old 04-14-2012, 02:32 AM   #23
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Old 04-14-2012, 02:54 AM   #24
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Great writeup Erling!

One question though: The three yellow cables. Do they run parallel or do You have to connect them to the R/R in a specific order? I couldn't see that in your post.

I guess it one from each stator and the individual order doesn't matter, but it would be nice to get it confirmed :-)

Lokks as it's not only the 800GS with this issue:

http://www.vstrom.info/Smf/index.php?topic=12507.0

http://www.apriliaforum.com/forums/s...FET%29-R-amp-R

http://www.triumphrat.net/speed-trip...r-upgrade.html
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Old 04-14-2012, 05:11 AM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ebrabaek View Post
I will mount the unit in the am......and do a few on the road tests. and post the results... But what I have seen so far is promising. In recap.... I was told this is a mosfet shunt R/R with Japan as origin.... Until tomorrow.......

Erling
So why did ya get the shunt type instead or a series type?
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Old 04-14-2012, 05:23 AM   #26
Indy Unlimited
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The issues with the Compufire series type R/R is that the available power output is about 60% of the Shunt style so if you run heated clothes and other items you may not have enough to keep the batttery charged.
The real issue is lack of internal cooling it would be great to have an oil cooler pump cooler oil onto the stator side and help the stator.
I plan to just send the stock stator out for rewind every 25,000 miles and run the MOSFET and call it good.
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Old 04-14-2012, 06:18 AM   #27
WayneC1
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FYI, from f650.com thread, different part No but it seems the same problem, regulator is the common factor

http://f650.com/forum/showthread.php...dventure/page2



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Old 04-14-2012, 06:31 AM   #28
LukasM
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Nice work Erling. Even though our bikes are not known for failing R/Rs like some others, if the MOSFET one solves the problem with charging voltage it's a (fairly) cheap and easy upgrade. I am still thinking that the series R/R would be even better if it helps with stator life. So far I haven't read about any failures from the Aprilia and Triumph riders that made the switch...



And one suggestion if I may, knowing that you are a crafty mechanic who likes to all your own work, I think a good set of open terminal crimping pliers is a worthwhile investment. Especially on a motorcycle with all the vibrations it's nice to have an even stronger mechanical and electrical bond in addition (if you ask some engineers even instead of) the solder.

Quote:
Originally Posted by ebrabaek View Post
Solder the three new terminals in.....
Should look more like this:

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Old 04-14-2012, 06:44 AM   #29
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FWIW
Just noted that the Shingdigen(sp?) is fused at 30 amps...this is 360W. The BMW system/stator is rated at 400W.
It may not be up to meeting the loads of a "good" stator.
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Old 04-14-2012, 06:55 AM   #30
WayneC1
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The BMW stator will be rated as per the GS single figures below

Max Power is at 7500 rpm 29 amps at 14v ie 406 watts

Suggest checking the manual or RepRom for the spec
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