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Old 05-11-2013, 12:17 AM   #1516
RoninMoto OP
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Thanks for the support guys!

I'm in Uzbekistan now

The boat took 36 hours. I didn't get out of Kazak customs till around 5:30 Thursday night.

It has been an interesting few days. I'll explain tonight when I get a hotel. Its been 5 or 6 days since I've had a real shower. I should be flyfishing Uzbek mountain streams in the next few days. My visa ends on the 20th.
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RTW Ride Report --> http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=781893
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Old 05-11-2013, 10:54 AM   #1517
live2ridetahoe
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Congrats on getting to UZ. Looking forward to your updates. Safe travels and good luck with the fishing.

JG
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Old 05-12-2013, 10:48 PM   #1518
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Video from Mestia

I finally put together a short video from Mestia. Enjoy

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Old 05-13-2013, 05:04 AM   #1519
RhinoVonHawkrider
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Noah great Video, love the AiC tune

Safe Travels
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Old 05-13-2013, 05:51 AM   #1520
G-Mac
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Originally Posted by RhinoVonHawkrider View Post
Noah great Video, love the AiC tune

Safe Travels
Second that fo sho
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Old 05-13-2013, 06:40 AM   #1521
RoninMoto OP
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I met some guys from the Baku Bicycle club and they helped me find the people I needed to. We also walked around Baku and it was nice to meet some good people from Azerbaijan.


My new friends


I want one of these dudes.




A tired noah.








Oil in the water....

How to get on the Baku Ferry to Aktau.

Baku ferry.
First, you need to fill your empty tank of patience. Forget all the shit you went through with police and traffic trying to get to Baku. Take a deep breath. Ok now you are ready to start.
There are 2 ports in Baku, the “new port” and the “old port”. The ferry to Aktau can leave from either. There is no schedule. The ferry will leave when it is full of transport. If it is a rail ferry, you will not be able to go on it if there are petroleum cars or chemical cars. No passengers will. I am not sure about the ferry to Turkmenbashi and how to buy a ticket.

The link to Baku Port http://www.bakuseaport.az/eng.html
(It won't be much help)

You need to find the lady named Vika. She is Russian looking in her 30s. Sandy blond/brown hair. Speaks some English and she is the ONLY person who can sell you a ticket. There are 2 ticket offices and its a crap shoot where she will be. Email me and I will send you her number. The old port ticket office is located near the Boulevard area of Baku. After you enter the main road from the Boulevard, you will drive between a wall on the right and a building on the left. You will cross railroad tracks and see a gate. The first building on the right after the gate is the ticket office. The door with moto stickers on it is the one you want.


The ticket office is on the right.




Coordinates 40.376178277, 49.8650832704 (Old Port Entrance from Boulevard)
Coordinates 40.3744878209, 49.865611321 (Ticket office)

The New Port (RoRo Port) is about 8 km east.
Coordinates 40.3691628766, 49.9352689035 (Ro Ro Port Entrence)
Coordinates 40.3628328103, 49.9344234767 (New port ticket office)




The ticket office is the white building on the right side of the gate. There are 3 doors on the west wall. Left door is Ticket, middle door is passport control, right door is police/customs.

Call Vika every morning at 10:00 and ask if a ferry is leaving. She will probably say call back around 2 or no, there isn't one. When you call back around 2, the ferry will probably have chemical rail cars in which case you can't go. So you wait till the next day and call again.

Customs office.
When your 3 day transit import for your vehicle is up, you need to leave you vehicle or car at the customs office. Theoretically it is a “secure place” I had no problem with my motorcycle being messed with. I removed all luggage and locked my spare tires to the frame. You don't need to pay any money when you put your bike into custom. You will be able to remove your bike from customs when you have a ticket to the boat. They will let you ride to the new port if that is where the ship is leaving from. You should not have to pay any money to customs when you are leaving. You can leave your vehicle at customs in the new port also I think. But it will not be in a gated area.

Coordinates 40.3719194538, 49.865193405 (Customs office)

On the Ferry From Baku to Aktau. May 7.
I called Vika at 10:00 on the 7th. She said meet her at the old port at 11:00. I met a couple from Switzerland in a Landrover taking the same boat and we all went to the new port to get tickets. $200 later and I have a ticket to Aktau. Taxi back to the hotel to get the bags, Taxi to old port to get the moto loaded up. Ride back to new port to wait for ferry. Around 3:00 I was waiting with the Swiss couple. Document control while we were waiting and around 7:00 pm we were able to load the boat. The sun was setting before the boat left port. Soon after I fell asleep




On the boat.


Truck drivers on the boat


My Uzbek roommates.


Sunset and boat hasn't left.


The emergency picture is hand drawn. Along with the boat drawings.

May 8.
Woke up in the morning in checked the GPS. We had traveled a whole 25km from Baku. That's twenty five. Not 250. 25. We weren't moving and when we finally started again, we were going about 19km/h. It would take another 26 hours to reach Aktau. I spend the day trying to communicate in Russian, talking with the Swiss couple, editing some video and watching some Futurama on the computer. The sunset that night was amazing.


Toilet.






Doors were wide open. You could go anywhere on the boat you wanted.


Sharing beer with my Swiss friends.







May 9.
We woke up around 7:00 in morning with Kazakhstan in view off the right side. By 9:00 we were in port and by 11:00 we got to leave the boat. About 6 hours later we were through customs and I was on my way. The image below lists the details.




Leaving customs.


She demanded that she sign Kazak.



Later that night after about 204km it was getting dark as I was entering the town of Shetpe. Entering the town there was a modern petrol station that I passed up to fuel on the other side of town. I found an ATM and got some money. The petrol station leaving town didn't have an attendant so I rode across the street to a restaurant/bar. There were about 6 guys sitting and standing around a bbq. I started talking to 2 of them. I didn't even have a chance to take my helmet off when I hear glass break and I get hit with whiskey. They guy who threw his whiskey at me ran up an kicked my side with the bottom of his foot knocking my motorcycle over. I stepped off my bike as it fell onto the left side and he ran around to try and kick me again. He tried to kick my leg with the top of his foot and got the buckles of my boot which I bet felt good. My helmet still on and fists clenched I started yelling at him and got very big. The other 5 guys held him back and helped me pick my moto up. I have no idea why he was so mad but he definitely was drunk.


At the ATM. The traveler draws a crowd.

A this point I went back to the modern station and fueled up and got the FOOK out of town. I went about 30km and then 5 or 6 km out into the dark. I camped by the bike and kept opening my eyes whenever I heard a sound. It turned out I was about 1 km from rail road tracks on the other side of a hill so 4 or 5 times I heard a train thinking it was a car coming. The start were beautiful. There were no lights visible and no moon. I was glad when the birds woke me up at first light.

May 9 Into Uzbekistan.

I was packed up and on the road by 7:30 in the morning. The road from Shetpe to Beyneu is total shit. It is about 310km of 2nd 3rd and 4th gear stand up riding. Many times I thought I would have bent rims but the Dirstars are strong. I stopped at the only food place I saw for a breakfast of eggs, sausage and bread (sounds like Yetso, kilbasa y hleb in russian). The sign also said they had fuel but I didn't check. Hit empty on my stock tank 12L and RallyRaid tanks 10L about 40km from Beyneu. I still had 5L in my 4th tank along with 2L in plastic bottles. I found a petrol station in Beyneu and topped off. Sheshlik, cucumber salad and coke has become a staple of my diet. About 3:30 I was 20km from the border and got a flat in the rear. It looked like I picked up an office staple somewhere. Back on the road after a patch. At the border soon and I was standing in line in Kazak customs just before 5. The sun was going down when I finally got through. Both Kazak and Uzbek customs put me at the front of the line to get me through. The Uzbek form to temp import your bike is only in Russian so save the paperwork form the Kazak customs. You can figure out info from the Kazak paperwork to put on the Uzbek sheet. I rode about 50 km away from the border and found a place in the desert to camp. After a dinner of Asian noodles, crackers and sardines I went to bed. And slept amazing.


Good to see first light.


Camped next to the bike here.


The best the road was.


Feche Fechs.


There are many tracks. Watching Tractor trailer trucks drive this would be like watching fully loaded trucks run the Baja, Mojave Desert, or Morocco. It was crazy. At one point I counted 10 different roads separate from the shitty main road. People choose the one where they can go the fastest.




rim full of dust/dirt/shit/powder


lunch.


Flat.


The cuprate.


In Uzbekistan. looking back at the setting sun.


Making camp. Good night.

I'm loving life again. More to come tomorrow.
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Noah 08 KTM 690 ADV. 111,000 km. 42 countries. 5 continents and counting.
RTW Ride Report --> http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=781893
Blog ------------------> http://rtwwithnoah.blogspot.com/
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Old 05-13-2013, 07:26 AM   #1522
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Loving life after being attacked by a drunk.
That's the spirit!
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Old 05-13-2013, 07:52 AM   #1523
MeinMotorrad
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Well your adventure is definitely back on. Lots going on. Any damage done by the asshole that kicked you? I think if the weather and temps are OK I'd be sleeping as far from civilisation as I could, just for peace of mind.

I've got a noob question about riding in desert/sand/dust etc. Do you lube your chain as normal or is it better to just try to keep it clean but dry? I'm wondering if chain lube and sand turns into a abrasive paste that does more harm than good.
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Old 05-13-2013, 07:56 AM   #1524
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Damn Noah, I'm loving the RR. Take a lickin' and keep on tickin' eh? You got a steel set, I can't wait to read more. Safe travels my man!
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Old 05-13-2013, 07:57 AM   #1525
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Originally Posted by MeinMotorrad View Post
Well your adventure is definitely back on. Lots going on. Any damage done by the asshole that kicked you? I think if the weather and temps are OK I'd be sleeping as far from civilisation as I could, just for peace of mind.

I've got a noob question about riding in desert/sand/dust etc. Do you lube your chain as normal or is it better to just try to keep it clean but dry? I'm wondering if chain lube and sand turns into a abrasive paste that does more harm than good.
No damage. Except for his foot. moto boots are not forgiving apparently.
I let it run dry in the dust then lubed it again when I got out of the sand.
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RTW Ride Report --> http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=781893
Blog ------------------> http://rtwwithnoah.blogspot.com/
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Old 05-13-2013, 08:11 AM   #1526
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about time, lol. how does it feel now to be back on the road on the bike? Your gonna miss that snow.
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Old 05-13-2013, 09:47 AM   #1527
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about time, lol. how does it feel now to be back on the road on the bike? Your gonna miss that snow.
I have a feeling I will see some snow when I get to the mountains in a few days. But yeah.. great to get back on the road.

I met up with a group people here in Bukhara who are traveling on bikes. One bloke from the UK on a drz400 is on his 3rd bike and has been riding since 2006
http://shortwayround.co.uk/

One lady in the group has a africa twin with a spent clutch. they had to ship it from kazak to here. Parts should be arriving in the morning. I might stay a few extra days to help them with the clutch. It seems I might have more mechanical experience then the rest..
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RTW Ride Report --> http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=781893
Blog ------------------> http://rtwwithnoah.blogspot.com/
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Old 05-13-2013, 11:01 AM   #1528
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Originally Posted by Cortez View Post
Loving life after being attacked by a drunk.
That's the spirit!
Wear a Bruins shirt in a bar in Philly or Montreal and see how long it takes someone to throw a drunken punch! Must have been unnerving, but he got it sorted, good job Noah.

BTW, if you have a minute, I'd love to know how you're dealing with the language differences? 25 counties - you either must be remarkably fluent or a master at charades. Is it really difficult? Gas, food, hotel, directions, money exchange: are some things easier than others? I wonder because I've been to some places (Estonia, China, and even in the Czech Republic come to mind) where even with quite a bit of prep, I couldn't seem to decipher anything that was said to me.
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Old 05-13-2013, 11:17 AM   #1529
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Originally Posted by RoninMoto View Post

I met up with a group people here in Bukhara who are traveling on bikes. One bloke from the UK on a drz400 is on his 3rd bike and has been riding since 2006
http://shortwayround.co.uk/
Adam Lewis a top notch fellow, one of the best multiyear overlanders I've ever met, he can help you save money

Seems he hasn't been working on his site updating much. He'd be a good one to team up with for a short go if your crossing a rough spot or two. Hell of a good rider.
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Old 05-13-2013, 11:31 AM   #1530
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Originally Posted by sprouty115 View Post
BTW, if you have a minute, I'd love to know how you're dealing with the language differences? 25 counties - you either must be remarkably fluent or a master at charades. Is it really difficult? Gas, food, hotel, directions, money exchange: are some things easier than others? I wonder because I've been to some places (Estonia, China, and even in the Czech Republic come to mind) where even with quite a bit of prep, I couldn't seem to decipher anything that was said to me.
Well. After being in Georgia for 4 months and doing some rosetta stone for russian, i'm not in too bad of shape.

I have a decent knowledge of the numbers and alphabet now. Small convo. Asking where things are, how much etc. Recognizing questions like "where are you from" as opposed to "where are you going". Also I can order food and get kind of what I want.

I am also a master of charades, and drawing on paper/the ground/dust on the moto.
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RTW Ride Report --> http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=781893
Blog ------------------> http://rtwwithnoah.blogspot.com/
Facebook------------> https://www.facebook.com/RtwWithNoah
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