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Old 05-20-2013, 12:59 AM   #1561
sigmund freud
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We need an update Noah
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Old 05-20-2013, 06:27 AM   #1562
zadaleko
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you There

c'mon bro where are you?
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Old 05-20-2013, 07:19 AM   #1563
Colebatch
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ThisWayHome View Post
According to information provided by the US State department on Tajikistan (http://travel.state.gov/travel/cis_p...y_requirements), it says we must get the visa prior to traveling to the country, however, this conflicts with statement about being able to pick one up in Bishkek which you made.
It doesnt conflict.

Bishkek is in Kyrgyzstan.

He is in Kyrgyzstan trying to get a visa for Tajikistan.
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Old 05-20-2013, 09:01 AM   #1564
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Great RR

Hello, I am an American living in Kyrgyzstan. Don't know if you are still here or not but if you have any trouble, need help, or just want to meet let me know. I am about 30 minutes west of Bishkek.

Mac
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Old 05-20-2013, 04:17 PM   #1565
ThisWayHome
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I should have written it a bit more clearly. I mean to say prior to leaving the US.

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Originally Posted by Colebatch View Post
It doesnt conflict.

Bishkek is in Kyrgyzstan.

He is in Kyrgyzstan trying to get a visa for Tajikistan.
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Old 05-20-2013, 10:56 PM   #1566
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I've followed your trip report religiously since you landed in Georgia, and am making a similar ride from Europe to Asia this summer. As you are probably well aware, there are some complications and bureaucratic headaches for US citizens acquiring visas for passage through Iran at this time (maybe it will improve after Iranian elections in June), which is causing me to rethink the route east towards India and Thailand. Were you able to procure tourist visas for Uzbekistan and Kazakhstan outside of the US as you traveled east? According to information provided by the US State department on Tajikistan (http://travel.state.gov/travel/cis_p...y_requirements), it says we must get the visa prior to traveling to the country, however, this conflicts with statement about being able to pick one up in Bishkek which you made. Lastly, why did you take a ferry from Baku to Aktau instead of taking a route like this (http://goo.gl/maps/LcU3M) for example?

Thanks a bunch for help illuminating these uncertainties in my trip planning.

Gurupurkha, a.k.a. "G"
I sent my passport to the US for my Russian visa. I got my Azerbaijan and Kazakh visa in Tbilisi georgia. Both took about a week. I hear it is easier in Istanbul? I got my Uzbek visa in Baku Azerbaijan. It took 1 day with an LOI. I just got my Tajik visa and Pamir permit in Bishkek. It took 1/2 hour and $75.

If I did it again, I would ride north from Georgia and Avoid Azerbaijan and the ferry. It would probably be cheaper and take less time. Just make sure you avoid Chechnya. My Russian Visa didn't start until May 15. When I was planning, It was still unclear if foreign citizens could cross into russia from georgia. Now we know you can.

Lastly, I don't really like the US state department website. It basically tells you not to leave the couch because the world is a dangerous place.
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Old 05-20-2013, 11:01 PM   #1567
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Great to see you are at it again! Looking forward to seeing some of the fly fishing pics! Be safe!
I thrashed the water a few times in the past few days. It rained a whole lot yesterday and last night so most of the rivers look blown out now. I will try more soon. I still haven't figured out a pattern that works yet. I tried nymphing, worms, topwater ect. Nothing. The locals are using grasshoppers on a hook weighted by a sinker. Not really possible with the fly rod. I did try a grasshopper pattern but the water was moving pretty fast where I was fishing.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Red liner View Post
And NO RTW is complete without scouring the Indian Himalayas When are you here to ride the highest roads in the world?

Unfortunately, I think India requires a carnet.
I'm going to need a carnet for japan so I will have one. I am not sure if I will make it to india on this trip or not. That all depends on Burma I think.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mac-1769 View Post
Hello, I am an American living in Kyrgyzstan. Don't know if you are still here or not but if you have any trouble, need help, or just want to meet let me know. I am about 30 minutes west of Bishkek.

Mac
THanks Mac, I'm back in Osh now. I will head for Tajik tomorrow. If I need anything on my way to Almaty, I'll let you know.
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Old 05-21-2013, 12:22 AM   #1568
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Lastly, I don't really like the US state department website. It basically tells you not to leave the couch because the world is a dangerous place.
Wise words Noah.

I can say the same for the UK Foreign Office web site.

You have to bear in mind they are written by diplomats who will have to get off their asses to help you out if you go to their country and get into trouble. They dont want to do that. They assume everyone is a helpless idiot. So they warn you not to go there. It solves all their problems. It absolves them of all responsibility and means they dont have to deal with you.

Take government advice websites with a ton of salt.
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Old 05-21-2013, 01:43 AM   #1569
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Just finish to read all 105 pages in last 2 weeks.

Great RR Noah, keep them coming and don't forget to smile all the way
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Old 05-21-2013, 02:03 AM   #1570
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Originally Posted by RoninMoto View Post
Lastly, I don't really like the US state department website. It basically tells you not to leave the couch because the world is a dangerous place.

It's not like you got your a$$ kicked at least once already!
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Cortez screwed with this post 05-21-2013 at 02:08 AM
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Old 05-21-2013, 02:19 AM   #1571
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It's not like you got your a$$ kicked at least once already!
Haha.. but I get my ass kicked by drunks in the US also
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Old 05-21-2013, 02:20 AM   #1572
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Haha.. but I get my ass kicked by drunks in the US also
It's probably you.. you attract the wrong kind of crowd.
Better keep moving then!
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Old 05-21-2013, 05:02 AM   #1573
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It's probably you.. you attract the wrong kind of crowd.
Better keep moving then!

Eh - doubtful. I can identify with Noah here. Drunk assholes are drunk assholes, probably plagued by feelings of small-perckeritis, and when they see someone who looks out of place (a traveler) they get big in the head. Guy's lucky Noah's got self restraint, it's not very hard for a sober guy to absolutely pummel a drunk.
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Old 05-21-2013, 11:40 AM   #1574
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Leaving Uzbekistan

May 15. 2013. Bukhara to Tashkent 603 km
I woke up feeling a whole lot better in my stomach with a strong appetite. The clutch parts for the african twin had not yet arrived but were expected later that morning. They were taking the bike to a Chevy garage where they heard there was an impact gun. I loaded up my bike and met them at the garage. It turns out, this garage didn't have and impact wrench. The african twin has a 30mm or something nut on the clutch cage that needs to be removed in order to replace the clutch disks. It was not possible to hold the clutch in order to loosen the nut. They told me they tried to put it in gear and loosen the nut.. but they had it in first gear. There is to much torque on the brake so you need to put it in 5th gear. The nut spun. I wanted to get on the road so I didn't stay to wait for the parts to arrive. I skipped Samarkand and went straight to Tashkent. My plan was to get to try to get to the Tajik embassy in Bishkek sometime on Friday. On a map it doesn't look very far. On moto it is. I would have had to go about 1700 km in 2 days with 1 border crossing and multiple police checkpoints in Uzbek. I checked into a hostel that let me bring the moto inside and had a nice conversation with an older lady from the UK who has been traveling off and on her whole life. Recently for the past couple years.




First glimpse of mountains near Samarkand


What construction will do to the under of your bike.

May 16. Tashkent Uzbekistan to Osh Kyrgyzstan. 495 km
I was up early and on the road. I was stopped by 6 or 7 police checkpoints on the way to the border. They all just wanted to check who I was and copy down my info. Then call someone and let me go. Each time took 30 minutes to an hour. I tried to explain that I had been stopped 30 km back but they wanted to do it all again. I kept asking "shto problema?" and they would reply "nyet problema"... So WHY cant I go?.. People feeling important. When I got close to the border I was looking at the map an there was 2 border crossings. I thought I would try the one that closer toward Bishkek. It turns out only locals can use that border. So I wasted about an hour. I would have gained about 140 km if it would have worked. When I got to the border I needed to cross, they asked me for insurance on my moto. Um.. insurance on my moto? Thats required here? Yup. Well I don't have any. Maybe at the border coming in or at one of the 20 police checkpoints they should have asked for it. I had to ride back to the last police checkpoint about 5 km back and purchase moto insurance for about 5000 sum... or about $1.85. I was let through the Uzbek side about 9:30 at night. On the Kyrgyzstan side, there was one man checking my passport and moto document. Stamped my passport and I was on my way. 15 minutes maximum. No visa required. I asked him if I needed insurance on the moto and he laughed. I like this country. I slept the night at the Tes Guest house. A "simple" room all to myself for about $20 and that price included a beer.


A close up of where I wanted to cross and where I did.


Getting into mountains.


Looking into Kyrgyzstan


My last Uzbek sunset.


In Kyrgyzstan for the first time!

May 17. Osh to Massy Kyrgyzstan. 246 km
After a quick breakfast at the hostel I started going toward Bishkek. I know I would not make it in time to get to the embassy so I decided to try to do some exploring. I went on some backroads that followed along a river and looked like they would connect through. I later found out it was a dead end. After meeting some local guys fishing (and not catching any myself) I continued up the road toward the mountains in search of slower moving water. I met a older man who insisted I come to his house for tea. After tea, bread, salad, home made jams, honey and trying to communicate, I had to go. He told me I could not go north anymore than 2 km. I decided to go back to the guys who were fishing. When I go there, they had finished making plov. Its the Uzbek and Kyrgyz national dish and it is basically lamb fried rice. Super tasty. They insisted I eat with them so I did. One of them said I can stay at his house and he won't take no for an answer. That night I slept outside under a shelter on a bed/table thing where people eat and have tea. I slept really well outside.


So.. Osh is where the robots rise up and kill humanity?


Nice green rolling hills.




Starting to look like a good road.


My new fishing friends.


Livestock on the roads is more common the motorcycles.






They gave me tea and food. Great people.




Plov.





May 18. Massy to Bishkek. 531 km
I woke up to roosters and donkeys making a ruckus. Tea, plov and instant coffee for breakfast and I was on my way down the road. After about 30 km I passed where I would have come into Kyrg a few days earlier had I been able to go through the border. Early in the afternoon I was riding along a river and decided to try fishing. The water was moving fast and I didn't have any luck. When I was riding back onto the road, I saw a KTM 990 piloted by a Russian guy named Misha. He said he met a girl on a bike who I had talked to earlier. We decided to ride together to Bishkek. I ditched the plan to camp somewhere. We went over a couple high passes and made it into Bishkek around dark. The last 40 km into Bishkek are hell. Once you get out of the mountains there are very many people all trying to get to the same place. No one cares about centerline or oncoming traffic. Misha had a number for a guy in the Bishkek motorcycle club so we met up with them. The restaurant we were at was out of every type of meet but liver. So I had bacon wrapped liver shashlik. It was great.


Everywhere I go people try to give me gifts. Like this traditional hat. I don't have room so I just took a picture with it.


My new swiss friend. We ate some icecream together.


I want to apologize for the smudges on my lense. I didn't realise until they were on my computer.






Someone had a bad day.


Fishing break.


Water to fast.








Top of the first tall pass.


Makes me wish I had my Polaris IQR.






We found a wedding in the canyon.




These guys seem more happy than the bride and groom..



May 19. Bishkek
Misha and I worked on the bikes. I finally swapped out my rear tire for the TKC 80 I have been carrying since Georgia. We went to a banya/sauna which was amazing. It has been about 1 years since I have had a good sweat in a sauna. For dinner we had some dumpling things with spinach?, onion and herbs. I also had bbq dog. I figured when will I have the chance to try it... so I did. Once you get over the fact that you are eating mans best friend, it wasn't bad. Less gamey then lamb. Ok let the hate emails start from the dog lovers.




Bishkek bikers.


Still has another 1000 km left in her I think.


Some of the club.

May 20. Bishkek to Uchkurgan. 483 km
Misha left before breakfast. We went to the Tajik embassy early and within about 1/2 hour I had my visa. After washing/oiling my airfilter I started back toward Osh on the same road. This time going up the first pass it started raining on me instead of the beautiful sun that Misha and I had. On the southern side of the pass there was fresh snow. Later that night there was lightning in front of me and I knew it was only about 30 km to the next town where I could find a hotel. Within 10 minutes I was in one of the gnarliest storms I have ever been in let alone ride through. I was in a tight canyon with rock wall on the left and barriers on the right. It was raining so Hard there was standing water on the road. I came around one corner and the wind hit me so hard it made the bike stop in 1st gear.. all the faster I could go. I though I would turn around and go back to the tunnel to wait it out. A huge gust of wind blew the bike over as I tried to turn around. About ten minutes later it was past but I was soaked. I rode into the next town... in turned out there was no hotel there.. so I kept riding longer. Finally I found a place where I could sleep. Again on one of the bed/table things. The guy gave me hot tea, fried potatoes and fried garlic. The garlic was pretty amazing. It rained more that night and with the wind I was getting wet all night. I was in my down sleeping bag and I had a few layers of wool blankets over me so I did not care to much. I was warm.


Russell and Misha.




New snow.




Great Austrian couple in a converted military MAN. Their setup was amazing.


Roads were clear..




Evidence of great drivers. These two somehow collided with each other. No blind corners and almost no traffic.


I hope the tank is empty.


Rocks like I saw on the island of Corsica.


Calm before the storm.

This morning I rode about 150 km in the rain and I got into Osh mid morning. I promptly checked into a hostel and took a hot shower. To morrow I have to fix a few electrical parts on the moto. The dash had a few pins vibrate loose again, the blinker relay got fried when I dropped the bike in the rain, and I need to replace a the blinker on the hand guard. Then its on to Tajikistan the next day to start the Pamir highway. It will probably be a week or so without internet until I get to Dushanbe.
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Old 05-21-2013, 01:49 PM   #1575
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Great update N~ Best of luck on your travels ahead..
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