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Old 05-31-2013, 12:01 PM   #346
live2ridetahoe
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While doing an air filter change and Uni Filter install this week I was checking over other things since I had the plastics off.

To all of the inmates that follow this thread, please check your coolant hose clamps. Two can be accessed by simply removing the lower black plastic cover on the left side of the bike. Both of mine were VERY loose. I had and issue a couple of thousand miles ago returning home from Tahoe where I started to see coolant on my left leg and boot. This was due to the same hose clamps coming loose.

Two more hose clamps are down by the header and on the lower right side near the front of the bike. Those two were ok. I loosened them a bit and swiveled them a bit for easier access with a socket. Then I tightened them back up.

I may switch the clamps out for a pair of T-bolt clamps if, when I check them again, they are loose.

Cheers,

JG
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Old 06-04-2013, 04:13 PM   #347
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2013 800 Roadie, one and 1/2 months old and 436 miles. Lower Radiator hose leaking which I fixed by tightening the hose clamp - no big deal.

But, the head gasket is seeping oil on the left side of the block and on the rear. Dropped off at the dealer today. Will see what happens and what the issue is.
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Old 06-04-2013, 04:39 PM   #348
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Originally Posted by JCANRUN View Post
2013 800 Roadie, one and 1/2 months old and 436 miles. Lower Radiator hose leaking which I fixed by tightening the hose clamp - no big deal.

But, the head gasket is seeping oil on the left side of the block and on the rear. Dropped off at the dealer today. Will see what happens and what the issue is.
there are some hoses on recall.
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Old 06-04-2013, 05:11 PM   #349
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Originally Posted by JCANRUN View Post

But, the head gasket is seeping oil on the left side of the block and on the rear. Dropped off at the dealer today. Will see what happens and what the issue is.
You mean cam cover gasket? Did you try snugging the screws?
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Old 06-05-2013, 01:52 AM   #350
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JCANRUN View Post
2013 800 Roadie, one and 1/2 months old and 436 miles. Lower Radiator hose leaking which I fixed by tightening the hose clamp - no big deal.

But, the head gasket is seeping oil on the left side of the block and on the rear. Dropped off at the dealer today. Will see what happens and what the issue is.
If its the cam cover leaking then it seems to be a standard triumph weep. Both my modern bonneville's did it, little snug up on the bolts and she was A-OK
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Old 06-05-2013, 10:57 AM   #351
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Originally Posted by goodcat8 View Post
If its the cam cover leaking then it seems to be a standard triumph weep. Both my modern bonneville's did it, little snug up on the bolts and she was A-OK
no, it's actually seeping thru the head gasket as confirmed by my dealer (i also looked up the parts diagram online). but they weren't able to get to it yesterday (my appointment was for today anyways). the right side of the engine has external bolts, but the left side of the engine where it's seeping does not. my dealer told me that the bolts on the left side are inside the engine and you have to remove the valve cover to get to the left side bolts.
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Old 06-05-2013, 10:59 AM   #352
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Originally Posted by fbj913 View Post
there are some hoses on recall.
interesting, maybe it's a service bulletin as opposed to a full recall as i checked the government recall site and the only recall they list is for the turn signals (my bike was not included as it was not in the vin range for that recall). but, thanks for the fyi and i will ask my dealer about the hoses.
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Old 06-07-2013, 06:58 PM   #353
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For those of you who are having issues with vibration resonating through the handlebars - and even for those of you who aren't, here is my latest discovery:

I have noticed a gradual but increasing amount of higher frequency vibration as I've accumulated miles on my '12 T800 Roadie. I have largely attributed this to the fact that I installed a set of Rox Risers. I figured at least theoretically, moving the handlebars another two inches away from any dampening effect the front end provides could be a contributing factor.

Tonight I got home from work and had a bit of spare time on my hands. I decided to loosen and retorque all of the engine mounting bolts to see if "repositioning" the engine would make a difference. There are 5 mounting bolts - a front left, a rear left, a front right, and a rear right, all being 8mm allen head bolts. The two rear bolts screw directly into threads. The two front bolts have nuts on the other side that are a bit obstructed to access, but not impossible. I only say this because if you choose to retorque your engine mounting bolts you will need to be able to keep the nuts from turning as you tighten the allen bolts. 12" of extension with a 14mm socket got the job done. Anyway, The 5th mount is at the rear bottom of the case, and is a through bolt type that goes all the way from the left of the case across the bike to the right side. The head of the bolt is on the right, and a nut & washer are on the left. The factory manual refers to this mount as being one of two types:

1) a "shim" type mount. This type of mount uses a size specific shim to take up the gap between the case and the frame. It is available from triumph in .5mm increments. You simply fit the correct shim so there is no free play between the engine case and the frame, and then torque the nut to 48 nm.

2) an "adjustable" mount. This is the type of mount my bike has.The hole in the left side of the frame is threaded, and there is a collar with a hole in the middle that threads into the hole in the frame. It can be turned inward or outward to take up the gap between the frame and the case:




In the photo you can see the two notches in this collar that accept a special tool from Triumph, used to adjust the collar. By the way, the notches also accept the tips of a pair of needle nosed pliers . Here is a close up shot:





What you are seeing in that photo is the collar after I had already adjusted it. The point of this long winded explanation is to tell you what I found when I went through this procedure. The first issue was when I went to loosen the locknut on this mount it was already loose. The second issue was that collar was adjusted all the way out so that it wasn't even touching the engine case I had to tighten it several revolutions before it contacted the case. I also loosened up the other 4 mounts just enough so the engine was "hanging" on all of the mounts. I followed the torque sequence listed in the manual, which has you torquing this lower mount last. The procedure is to back out the collar until it is loose (which of course I didn't have to do because mine was improperly adjusted from the factory), then tighten it to 3nm. Translation - about 2 ft lbs, which means contacting the case but less than snug. Then install the washer and locknut onto the through bolt, and torque to 48nm.

The test ride afterwards revealed much less vibration through the handlebars, and more importantly the vibration I had previously experienced at just over 4000 RPM in 6th gear and 5000 RPM in 6th gear (the two places in the rev range that correspond to my slower or faster highway speeds) was a fraction of what it had previously been.

I hope this is able to help those of you complaining about vibration, and more importantly this is a good thing to check the next time you are going over the nuts and bolts on your tiger. If mine was put together incorrectly I'm sure it isn't the only one.
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Old 06-07-2013, 07:49 PM   #354
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Hmpf. I need to do that tomorrow when I properly clean my bike (after the two week trip) and see whether that makes a difference.

If yes, I could bite my ass that I didn't do it two weeks ago as my hands are still tingling (4 hours after we arrived back home). The last few days were a lot of long highway blasts to cover the 1600 miles back home, all around 60 to 70mph, mainly closer to 60 than 70 as my wife on her F650GS single was in a way worse situation - above 60 it vibrates like hell, windblast is pretty bad, it's super sensible in crosswinds. Even my Tiger with a huge Givi topcase was better.

It was bad enough that we arrived today and ordered a new bike for her already ... I think if it was me, I would have arrived at home on a different bike.
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Old 06-07-2013, 08:10 PM   #355
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Originally Posted by cug View Post
Hmpf. I need to do that tomorrow when I properly clean my bike (after the two week trip) and see whether that makes a difference.

If yes, I could bite my ass that I didn't do it two weeks ago as my hands are still tingling (4 hours after we arrived back home). The last few days were a lot of long highway blasts to cover the 1600 miles back home, all around 60 to 70mph, mainly closer to 60 than 70 as my wife on her F650GS single was in a way worse situation - above 60 it vibrates like hell, windblast is pretty bad, it's super sensible in crosswinds. Even my Tiger with a huge Givi topcase was better.

It was bad enough that we arrived today and ordered a new bike for her already ... I think if it was me, I would have arrived at home on a different bike.
Surprised by this. My SO rode two of them over the years - a 2001 and a 2005. She took them all over the place, including northern Quebec all the way to Radisson and Chisasibi via Route Du Nord (look it up), which was a nearly 3000 mile round trip for us. She loved her F650 singles. I rode them plenty too, and can tell you they'll top out at 106 indicated, can be leaned over far enough to grind side cases, and will run a low 14 second quarter mile at National Trail Raceway I thought they might have been the smoothest singles I've ever ridden.
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Old 06-07-2013, 08:23 PM   #356
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Originally Posted by Bueller View Post
I thought they might have been the smoothest singles I've ever ridden.
That's the key point.

My wife loves her F650GS. And she was fine with the vibration (I wouldn't have been), but it was absolutely horrible in crosswinds when loaded with gear.

We had two Jesse Luggage cases mounted, plus an Ortlieb bag with camp chairs and Therm-A-Rest mattresses. Overall a 40kg additional load on the rear of the bike (including cases and racks) and it handled the extra weight fairly badly. My Tiger was still super neutral steering (also with Jesse cases + a Givi V46 top case), her F was way too light in the front (pre-load cranked up all the way), steering was too light and super nervous and it wanted to fall more and more into slow speed turns - which actually then happened two times ...

We had a day downtime in Las Vegas and decided to head out to the BMW dealer to get a few small items and she decided to test ride a R1200R. Expensive mistake ...
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Old 06-07-2013, 08:51 PM   #357
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bueller View Post
For those of you who are having issues with vibration resonating through the handlebars - and even for those of you who aren't, here is my latest discovery:

I have noticed a gradual but increasing amount of higher frequency vibration as I've accumulated miles on my '12 T800 Roadie. I have largely attributed this to the fact that I installed a set of Rox Risers. I figured at least theoretically, moving the handlebars another two inches away from any dampening effect the front end provides could be a contributing factor.

Tonight I got home from work and had a bit of spare time on my hands. I decided to loosen and retorque all of the engine mounting bolts to see if "repositioning" the engine would make a difference. There are 5 mounting bolts - a front left, a rear left, a front right, and a rear right, all being 8mm allen head bolts. The two rear bolts screw directly into threads. The two front bolts have nuts on the other side that are a bit obstructed to access, but not impossible. I only say this because if you choose to retorque your engine mounting bolts you will need to be able to keep the nuts from turning as you tighten the allen bolts. 12" of extension with a 14mm socket got the job done. Anyway, The 5th mount is at the rear bottom of the case, and is a through bolt type that goes all the way from the left of the case across the bike to the right side. The head of the bolt is on the right, and a nut & washer are on the left. The factory manual refers to this mount as being one of two types:

1) a "shim" type mount. This type of mount uses a size specific shim to take up the gap between the case and the frame. It is available from triumph in .5mm increments. You simply fit the correct shim so there is no free play between the engine case and the frame, and then torque the nut to 48 nm.

2) an "adjustable" mount. This is the type of mount my bike has.The hole in the left side of the frame is threaded, and there is a collar with a hole in the middle that threads into the hole in the frame. It can be turned inward or outward to take up the gap between the frame and the case:




In the photo you can see the two notches in this collar that accept a special tool from Triumph, used to adjust the collar. By the way, the notches also accept the tips of a pair of needle nosed pliers . Here is a close up shot:





What you are seeing in that photo is the collar after I had already adjusted it. The point of this long winded explanation is to tell you what I found when I went through this procedure. The first issue was when I went to loosen the locknut on this mount it was already loose. The second issue was that collar was adjusted all the way out so that it wasn't even touching the engine case I had to tighten it several revolutions before it contacted the case. I also loosened up the other 4 mounts just enough so the engine was "hanging" on all of the mounts. I followed the torque sequence listed in the manual, which has you torquing this lower mount last. The procedure is to back out the collar until it is loose (which of course I didn't have to do because mine was improperly adjusted from the factory), then tighten it to 3nm. Translation - about 2 ft lbs, which means contacting the case but less than snug. Then install the washer and locknut onto the through bolt, and torque to 48nm.

The test ride afterwards revealed much less vibration through the handlebars, and more importantly the vibration I had previously experienced at just over 4000 RPM in 6th gear and 5000 RPM in 6th gear (the two places in the rev range that correspond to my slower or faster highway speeds) was a fraction of what it had previously been.

I hope this is able to help those of you complaining about vibration, and more importantly this is a good thing to check the next time you are going over the nuts and bolts on your tiger. If mine was put together incorrectly I'm sure it isn't the only one.
AH, not to point out the obvious but I think something is wrong with your shift lever!

Thank you so much for posting this! I'm checking mine tomorrow!
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Old 06-08-2013, 10:48 AM   #358
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bueller View Post
For those of you who are having issues with vibration resonating through the handlebars - and even for those of you who aren't, here is my latest discovery:

.
Was there a spacer (that sits under the head of the bolt) that needed to be removed in order for you to gain access to the notched piece? Did the screw out or was it just slipped in? The manual shows a spacer that get threaded in at 3Nm but mine doesn't seem to want to move? This spacer is separate from the adjusting piece. Since this spacer also appears to have notches I can't tell whether I have the adjustable mount or the shim mount. I can fit >.5mm feeler gauge into the gap where the shim would lie. Either way a gap I probably don't want.

Edit, I've got the shim type as identified by the crankcase plate. My bike seems to have not been shimmed at all but it's only off by .5mm, the smallest shim (up to 3.5mm). I ordered a .5mm shim from bike bandit along with some other stuff.

BTW, I've got about 16k miles on my tiger and it did seem like the vibrations were increasing slightly. I checked the throttle body sync and that was ok. I ran a small bottle of Techron (split over two tanks) through my bike and this did seem to smooth out the engine a little. I am interested in seeing how this engine mount re-tightening works out though. If the Tiger wasn't so smooth the extra vibrations probably wouldn't be noticeable as much. Thanks Bueller.

swimmer screwed with this post 06-08-2013 at 11:46 AM
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Old 06-08-2013, 12:18 PM   #359
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Originally Posted by swimmer View Post
Was there a spacer (that sits under the head of the bolt) that needed to be removed in order for you to gain access to the notched piece? Did the screw out or was it just slipped in? The manual shows a spacer that get threaded in at 3Nm but mine doesn't seem to want to move? This spacer is separate from the adjusting piece. Since this spacer also appears to have notches I can't tell whether I have the adjustable mount or the shim mount. I can fit >.5mm feeler gauge into the gap where the shim would lie. Either way a gap I probably don't want.

Edit, I've got the shim type as identified by the crankcase plate. My bike seems to have not been shimmed at all but it's only off by .5mm, the smallest shim (up to 3.5mm). I ordered a .5mm shim from bike bandit along /with some other stuff.

BTW, I've got about 16k miles on my tiger and it did seem like the vibrations were increasing slightly. I checked the throttle body sync and that was ok. I ran a small bottle of Techron (split over two tanks) through my bike and this did seem to smooth out the engine a little. I am interested in seeing how this engine mount re-tightening works out though. If the Tiger wasn't so smooth the extra vibrations probably wouldn't be noticeable as much. Thanks Bueller.
Since you've answered your own question I'll use this as an opportunity to provide an update. I only got to ride for a couple of miles after I adjusted the mount yesterday. Today I got to spend about an hour on the bike with all of my normal riding gear on. Though the difference in vibration reduction is not as pronounced as I initially thought yesterday, there is a marked difference in the amount of vibration coming up through the bars at highway speeds. So it was a win in that respect, as well as the fact that the lower end of the engine should not have had free play between the case and the frame for the last 12,000 miles. I'm sure it didn't hurt anything since the engine is mounted across 4 other points, but I'm glad I found the issue and fixed it.
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Old 06-08-2013, 12:35 PM   #360
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Originally Posted by Bueller View Post
Since you've answered your own question I'll use this as an opportunity to provide an update. I only got to ride for a couple of miles after I adjusted the mount yesterday. Today I got to spend about an hour on the bike with all of my normal riding gear on. Though the difference in vibration reduction is not as pronounced as I initially thought yesterday, there is a marked difference in the amount of vibration coming up through the bars at highway speeds. So it was a win in that respect, as well as the fact that the lower end of the engine should not have had free play between the case and the frame for the last 12,000 miles. I'm sure it didn't hurt anything since the engine is mounted across 4 other points, but I'm glad I found the issue and fixed it.
Since yours has a gap and mine has a gap and they are each of the two different kinds of mounting options, is it possible the gap appears over time? Just throwing it out there. It will be interesting if others check this what their results are vs. their mileage. More surprised mine has a gap between .5 and 1mm and no shim was ever put in there.

FWIW, the bike bandit schematic shows on of those adjuster sleeves on both sides of the bike. The service manual does not.

I am riding to colorado in a couple of weeks and unfortunately on the way back it will be about 75% slab and I'll be doing it in one day ( about a 12 hour trip) so even a small decrease in vibrations with be helpful.
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