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Old 06-08-2013, 12:30 PM   #361
Bueller
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My adjusting collar was run out hard and tightened against the frame, so it didn't get that way by itself over time. Someone tightened it in the wrong direction.
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Old 06-08-2013, 01:35 PM   #362
XPADREX
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Originally Posted by fbj913 View Post
AH, not to point out the obvious but I think something is wrong with your shift lever!

Thank you so much for posting this! I'm checking mine tomorrow!
That's in Bueller's other thread, where he details the installation of the heel-toe shifter kit on his Tiger.
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Old 06-08-2013, 07:36 PM   #363
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Originally Posted by fbj913 View Post
AH, not to point out the obvious but I think something is wrong with your shift lever!

Thank you so much for posting this! I'm checking mine tomorrow!
i checked mine out. it was loose. i didn't have time, or another hand to help, loosen all the bolts and go through a sequence, but nothing changed vibration wise... does the other side look the same i wonder?
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Old 06-08-2013, 08:42 PM   #364
Bueller
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Originally Posted by fbj913 View Post
i checked mine out. it was loose. i didn't have time, or another hand to help, loosen all the bolts and go through a sequence, but nothing changed vibration wise... does the other side look the same i wonder?
The adjustment is done on the left side only. The torque sequence involves all 5 mounting points. I only recommend going through the whole sequence because loosening all of the mounting bolts and then retorquing in the order listed in the service manual is the manner in which you would tighten everything if you were installing the engine into the frame. Since the adjustable mount is the last one in the torque sequence I suppose you could simply adjust/torque only that mount, but I was trying to make sure the engine was properly settled in the frame first.

Does your bike have a threaded adjustment collar, or does it use a shim?
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Old 06-09-2013, 11:11 AM   #365
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Originally Posted by Bueller View Post
The adjustment is done on the left side only. The torque sequence involves all 5 mounting points. I only recommend going through the whole sequence because loosening all of the mounting bolts and then retorquing in the order listed in the service manual is the manner in which you would tighten everything if you were installing the engine into the frame. Since the adjustable mount is the last one in the torque sequence I suppose you could simply adjust/torque only that mount, but I was trying to make sure the engine was properly settled in the frame first.

Does your bike have a threaded adjustment collar, or does it use a shim?
yeah when i have time i will go through the sequence. its threaded.
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Old 06-09-2013, 01:41 PM   #366
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Not a Tiger 800 issue but this happened to me today on mine...just passing along to those who use the Powerlet near the ignition switch.

http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=894219
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Old 06-11-2013, 05:46 PM   #367
elan
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I hadn't been able to ride for about two weeks due to a hand injury, but I was finally to the point where I could take it out last night. I was pretty low on gas so was just going to hit the gas station and back home. Go to start bike and it would just crank and crank. I cycled the ignition a few times to prime pump, reset stepper motor to no avail. Was finally able to get it to start after cracking the throttle a bit. It idled fine from then on and subsequent attempts to start went fine. Annoying though... Any ideas? Two weeks really isn't *that* long to not start a bike (although it felt like forever to me!).

So I just got back from the Florida keys for 2 weeks and upon starting my bike I anticipated this issue again...

My first attempt to start it was exactly like above mention. Just cranked, but wouldn't "catch". I cycle the ignition a few times to make sure the fuel system is fully pressurized. The next time I attempted to start it, I cracked the throttle a bit like I did last time, what happened after that was pretty scary... It starts, but makes a horrible clacking. I'm freaking out. Thinking spun bearing of some sort.

I get on the net and do some reading and I start to wonder if it's just the cam chain tensioner acting up - or not full of oil the more I read.

I do attempt to start again. It starts and runs, but is still making more noise than it did, or I would like and I shut it down soon thereafter.

I make a gut reaction to pull the tensioner and have a looksie. It looks to be functioning fine. What I didn't do was read the manual prior to removing the tensioner and put a wedge against the tensioner blade to make sure it doesn't skip a tooth and lose time. Bonehead mistake which may or may not have been costly had I started it out of time (not sure if it's an interference head), but yes, it was out of time when I checked after pulling the valve cover.

I get it back in time and take it out for a spin today. It starts up a little noisy and was making a little cam chain noise <3k RPMs for a few miles, but it finally quiets down. I chalk this up as the auto cam tensioner finally fully filling up with oil.

Anyways... long story short, I'm back in business, but I'm still concerned about starting up after it sits for a while. I live in Florida, so I ride all year. Do you guys up north have any issues starting after winter? Two weeks isn't that long of a down time IMO.

The clacking I'm assuming was oil running out of the cam chain tensioner as it sat, but I'm still wondering about the hesitation to initially start. I had a half a tank of gas in the tank. I use 87 octane and most stations around here use "up to 10% ethanol". Bike has around 10k easy miles on it.

Anyone else have any similar issues after it sits?
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Old 06-11-2013, 06:43 PM   #368
cory1848
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Quote:
Originally Posted by elan View Post
So I just got back from the Florida keys for 2 weeks and upon starting my bike I anticipated this issue again...

My first attempt to start it was exactly like above mention. Just cranked, but wouldn't "catch". I cycle the ignition a few times to make sure the fuel system is fully pressurized. The next time I attempted to start it, I cracked the throttle a bit like I did last time, what happened after that was pretty scary... It starts, but makes a horrible clacking. I'm freaking out. Thinking spun bearing of some sort.

I get on the net and do some reading and I start to wonder if it's just the cam chain tensioner acting up - or not full of oil the more I read.

I do attempt to start again. It starts and runs, but is still making more noise than it did, or I would like and I shut it down soon thereafter.

I make a gut reaction to pull the tensioner and have a looksie. It looks to be functioning fine. What I didn't do was read the manual prior to removing the tensioner and put a wedge against the tensioner blade to make sure it doesn't skip a tooth and lose time. Bonehead mistake which may or may not have been costly had I started it out of time (not sure if it's an interference head), but yes, it was out of time when I checked after pulling the valve cover.

I get it back in time and take it out for a spin today. It starts up a little noisy and was making a little cam chain noise <3k RPMs for a few miles, but it finally quiets down. I chalk this up as the auto cam tensioner finally fully filling up with oil.

Anyways... long story short, I'm back in business, but I'm still concerned about starting up after it sits for a while. I live in Florida, so I ride all year. Do you guys up north have any issues starting after winter? Two weeks isn't that long of a down time IMO.

The clacking I'm assuming was oil running out of the cam chain tensioner as it sat, but I'm still wondering about the hesitation to initially start. I had a half a tank of gas in the tank. I use 87 octane and most stations around here use "up to 10% ethanol". Bike has around 10k easy miles on it.

Anyone else have any similar issues after it sits?
I have noticed this as well. This seems to happen, in my case anyways, when fuel is low. If the fuel light is on or I am at 3 bars left, its a bitch to start. Almost as if it is fuel or pressure starved. Almost left me stranded at cycle gear of all places. Nice shiny new bike wont starting in the parking lot. Not a good feeling. This didnt happen since I bought it. I test rode the bike with the gas light on and no issues with starting so I have no idea what is causing this.
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Old 06-14-2013, 09:10 AM   #369
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Was there a spacer (that sits under the head of the bolt) that needed to be removed in order for you to gain access to the notched piece? Did the screw out or was it just slipped in? The manual shows a spacer that get threaded in at 3Nm but mine doesn't seem to want to move? This spacer is separate from the adjusting piece. Since this spacer also appears to have notches I can't tell whether I have the adjustable mount or the shim mount. I can fit >.5mm feeler gauge into the gap where the shim would lie. Either way a gap I probably don't want.

Edit, I've got the shim type as identified by the crankcase plate. My bike seems to have not been shimmed at all but it's only off by .5mm, the smallest shim (up to 3.5mm). I ordered a .5mm shim from bike bandit along with some other stuff.

BTW, I've got about 16k miles on my tiger and it did seem like the vibrations were increasing slightly. I checked the throttle body sync and that was ok. I ran a small bottle of Techron (split over two tanks) through my bike and this did seem to smooth out the engine a little. I am interested in seeing how this engine mount re-tightening works out though. If the Tiger wasn't so smooth the extra vibrations probably wouldn't be noticeable as much. Thanks Bueller.
Triumph ended up being back ordered on the spacer/shim which I guess is not surprising. So, I ended up just making my own with some aluminum round stock on the lathe at work. I should have just done this from the get go but I felt there was some justification for keeping things OEM. Besides the benefits of being free and it taking my 5 minutes to make instead of waiting weeks I was also able to make the piece between thicknesses available from Triumph so it was a more accurate. I ended up with a .85mm shim..

I didn't loosen and re-torque the other mounts but I did make sure that were adequately tight (they were) and then I torqued down the lower mount.

I do think this made a small reduction in vibration particularly at lower RPMs (where the triple is pretty smooth anyway). It only makes sense that getting rid of the gap that isn't supposed to be there and holding the engine more securely would help. Without the shim I would be depending on bending the frame inwards with the mounting screw to remove the frame/engine gap and I don't there is enough tension to do that nor is it desirable.
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Old 06-14-2013, 02:15 PM   #370
bluesman
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Originally Posted by cory1848 View Post
I have noticed this as well. This seems to happen, in my case anyways, when fuel is low. If the fuel light is on or I am at 3 bars left, its a bitch to start. Almost as if it is fuel or pressure starved. Almost left me stranded at cycle gear of all places. Nice shiny new bike wont starting in the parking lot. Not a good feeling. This didnt happen since I bought it. I test rode the bike with the gas light on and no issues with starting so I have no idea what is causing this.
87 octane with 10% ethanol is seriously bad thou. My bike sat for lot longer and worked OK. But when I used remains of petrol I had from stations in France that sat for about 1 month in canister even my trusty Briggs and Stratton lawn mover refused to start. I actually had to drain and put in proper 95 to start it.
Specially this easily happens if it was hot during those 2 weeks. My friends bikes did practically same when I was working on them, one is BMW and one is KTM. And French E10 way better than what you describe (it seems it corresponds to our 92 + 10% ethanol. E10 actually is 95 + 10% ethanol.
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Old 06-14-2013, 03:50 PM   #371
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Remember that the US and Europe use different Octane rating schemes. 91 Octane here in the US is comparable to a 95 or 96 rating in Europe. 87 in the US is comparable to 91 or 92 in Europe.
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Old 06-14-2013, 03:54 PM   #372
bluesman
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I know - this is what I state...
Quote:
"I had a half a tank of gas in the tank. I use 87 octane and most stations around here use "up to 10% ethanol"."

So this is 91-92 including 10% ethanol. While here such combo is unobtainable and rather nasty actually.
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Old 06-14-2013, 04:06 PM   #373
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So this is 91-92 including 10% ethanol. While here such combo is unobtainable and rather nasty actually.
No doubt about that. I'd gladly pay twice the money to get proper gasoline (like you do in Europe) here, but it's impossible. Corn lobby at its best.
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Old 06-15-2013, 01:41 PM   #374
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OK, before I break something. Is the front axle a left hand thread? Either that or the dealer torqued the poop out of it during assembly.

I twisted the head right off my little DIY bolt and nut tool. Im headed back to buy a real hex tool.
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Old 06-15-2013, 01:44 PM   #375
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OK, before I break something. Is the front axle a left hand thread?
no
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