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Old 03-21-2013, 07:32 AM   #631
cyborg
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rmhrc628 View Post
Just installed a 3br USB tapp on my e start xr600.

I have no key - the passive loss of electricity is huge. These things draw power even with nothing plugged in!!
rmhrc628 and SuperdD, the simple solution is don't connect USB ports, GPS's with charging circuits etc direct to the battery. The FE Bergs have switched power circuits that go up to the front mask (think lights, blinkers, etc). When the bike is off the relay switched power is off. Key or no-key bikes makes no difference. You can tap power up front from existing wiring which would be more than enough for a couple of watts for USB chargers.
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Old 03-21-2013, 10:29 AM   #632
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Absolutely

Quote:
Originally Posted by cyborg View Post
rmhrc628 and SuperdD, the simple solution is don't connect USB ports, GPS's with charging circuits etc direct to the battery. The FE Bergs have switched power circuits that go up to the front mask (think lights, blinkers, etc). When the bike is off the relay switched power is off. Key or no-key bikes makes no difference. You can tap power up front from existing wiring which would be more than enough for a couple of watts for USB chargers.
I agree Cyborg & that's what I'll be doing with the 'berg when I get around to setting it up for some gadgets. I just wanted to confirm that there is indeed a draw there, in case there are other guys like me who didn't give it a second thought before buying.
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Old 03-21-2013, 11:33 AM   #633
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Glad everyone is figuring out what will work for them, would suck to be in the back country with a dead battery and no kick start.
I chose not to use a switched power source because I will want to be able to charge iGadgets while parked at camp without having to leave the ignition on, having a disconnect inline solves the USB drain issue.
My Garmin is connected to a switched power source though since it has batteries that can keep it powered on with ignition off.
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Old 03-21-2013, 12:30 PM   #634
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Originally Posted by Lost Rider View Post
Glad everyone is figuring out what will work for them, would suck to be in the back country with a dead battery and no kick start.
I chose not to use a switched power source because I will want to be able to charge iGadgets while parked at camp without having to leave the ignition on, having a disconnect inline solves the USB drain issue.
My Garmin is connected to a switched power source though since it has batteries that can keep it powered on with ignition off.
The real point is the USB chargers drain batteries in 3 days.

I forgot you Husa guys don't have kick starters - I at least have the luxury of kick.

Plus the Hondas run a dual power system from the factory - ac for lights and dc for fine stuff.

My solution as suggested will be disconnect. Simple and effective,
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Old 03-21-2013, 01:25 PM   #635
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lost Rider View Post
Glad everyone is figuring out what will work for them, would suck to be in the back country with a dead battery and no kick start.
I chose not to use a switched power source because I will want to be able to charge iGadgets while parked at camp without having to leave the ignition on, having a disconnect inline solves the USB drain issue.
My Garmin is connected to a switched power source though since it has batteries that can keep it powered on with ignition off.
GPS units like my old Garmin 276c or my new Montana can drain a battery in 1 day easy, but like Lost I keep it on the switched power circuit since they both have internal batteries that can run them for many hours.

Husaberg 70degree FE's are all DC powered and have plenty of excess power from the alternator. The only non OEM connection I have direct to the battery is my Gerbings heated gear power cord (circular quick disconnect), which I can also use to charge the battery if I ever needed to, which so far I haven't. The heated grips, GPS unit, LED lights, are all on switched power. When the engine is off, nothing is draining the battery once I disconnect the Gerbing cable when I get off the bike. The Gerbings power cord can be used to run a small DC air compressor or could plug in a USB camp charger there too.
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Old 03-21-2013, 01:43 PM   #636
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i'm not really keen on having no kick start but just made up some jumper leads that are just long enough to reach the battery of another bike. they roll up and take very little space in the toolkit.

it was nice of husaberg to arrange a healthy output from the stator. does anyone know just how healthy it is?

next summer we are thinking of doing some night rides and i might rig up twin 35w HID lights. i figure the 570 should easily handle those by themselves, but not sure if they were running as well as the 35w HID headlight too....
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Old 03-21-2013, 02:55 PM   #637
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I've run my 55w hid, 2x 22w LED's, heated grips and heated jacket liner when night riding in winter. No issues though I understand I'm pushing the limits on that one. Since I wear my liner under hard armor just using low settings keep me warm.

The 7' cable on my air pump doubles as jumper cables, if I ever need them, cut the wire and I have bare tails to wire to a different battery. Havent needed it on this bike but have jumped previous bikes with those cables. The pump has a SAE connector on one end that goes into a SAE harness wired directly to battery.
Go husaberg!




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Old 03-21-2013, 04:06 PM   #638
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Here's what I installed on my FE570 (back when I owned it) for battery jump starting.:



I installed the battery side with the plug tucked in the hand hold opening under the seat and carried the longer cable in my backpack. Worked great especially considering how very very difficult it would be to access the battery terminals for a "normal" jump start. Link: http://www.powerlet.com/product/real...per-cables/410

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Old 03-22-2013, 01:26 PM   #639
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back to toolbox bashplates

when i was looking earlier this year force sent me these pics as well:

Tool1

Tool3

i'm still sorting my fuzeblock power set up out, almost there will post pics when its doen
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Old 03-22-2013, 02:25 PM   #640
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rider1 View Post
Here's what I installed on my FE570 (back when I owned it) for battery jump starting.:



I installed the battery side with the plug tucked in the hand hold opening under the seat and carried the longer cable in my backpack. Worked great especially considering how very very difficult it would be to access the battery terminals for a "normal" jump start. Link: http://www.powerlet.com/product/real...per-cables/410

Dave
nice piece of gear but you could recreate it at Radio Shack for about $20.
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Old 03-22-2013, 02:35 PM   #641
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Originally Posted by mrt10x View Post
nice piece of gear but you could recreate it at Radio Shack for about $20.
ouch i just saw the price of these .... i dont think i'll be buying one
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Old 03-23-2013, 02:54 AM   #642
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Battery before boosters IMO

Had some issues with my almost new 570 starting. Cold starting it turned out I wasn't airing out the newly oiled filter and was all better if I let it sit a couple hours off the bike before putting it in. Hot starting was on really hot times, with fuel and exhaust heat not getting along so well, something I just manage by not stopping for a flop-down rest just at the top of a fuel boiling nightmare.

But in frustration for how quickly I was reduced to roll-starting that day, (and even then it was harder of course) I got a Shorai lithium battery and not only does it run and charge stuff like Lost uses his for, but it also turns the starter quicker and even if you left it in gear with the clutch in (but slightly dragging as they do) it keeps the starter motor's speed up. My mechanic says, when things are rough like the fuel is boiling or you've been (ahem) having to start several times on one hill (ahem ahem) having the extra cranking means the fuel pump and the starter both get full power longer instead of a weakening battery giving say 90% to the fuel pump already struggling.

Besides all that real and hearsay info, I notice the bike starts better in ALL circumstances with the 14ah lithium battery. I have not had to test how long it can keep up cranking but have been told that's roughly twice as long too, and a faster recovery/recharge time afterwards.

Highly recommended! If my Tiger XC wasn't nearly flawless (- points for main fuse under the battery) in the electrics department I would have one there too -- but I will once I need the battery changed, fer sher!

Chris
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Old 03-23-2013, 06:44 PM   #643
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While I was breaking in my engine, the canadian armed forces decend upon my location in a really badass way
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Old 03-23-2013, 07:11 PM   #644
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Quote:
Originally Posted by B1 View Post
i'm not really keen on having no kick start but just made up some jumper leads that are just long enough to reach the battery of another bike. they roll up and take very little space in the toolkit.

it was nice of husaberg to arrange a healthy output from the stator. does anyone know just how healthy it is?

next summer we are thinking of doing some night rides and i might rig up twin 35w HID lights. i figure the 570 should easily handle those by themselves, but not sure if they were running as well as the 35w HID headlight too....
I believe it was qouted as 210 watts.

You don't want to run HIDs. It's all about LED now, and they are much more robust than HID as well as draw less power and last longer.

Awesome video by the way. That was quite a trip, and wow on the many river crossings.
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Old 03-24-2013, 04:36 PM   #645
B1
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Originally Posted by SmileyRider View Post


While I was breaking in my engine, the canadian armed forces decend upon my location in a really badass way
bummer. i've had the same thing happen a few times. the berg gets spotted by the black hawks and next thing grunts are slipping down the ropes, training their guns on me and politely asking for a test ride. thinking of camo colours to avoid these situations....
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