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Old 04-18-2012, 12:26 PM   #1
2GbeemerLUV OP
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Joined: Mar 2012
Location: philadelphia, pa
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Question concerning my clutch

1975 r60/6
so i got my clutch off the other day, and checked the thickness of the clutch plate, and it is under the minumum requirement as per the Haynes manual ( 7.15mm i believe). The compression plate and the compression ring are both very shiny and seem to be somewhat worn. I have also checked Duane's reference on this.

I guess my question would be, are the compression ring/plate items that will outlast the clutch plate by a job? Can I "newify" the assembly enough by just replacing the clutch plate and diaphragm spring? ($$$ is always an issue)

In terms of reliability and speed, can anyone suggest their favorite web site to order oem parts from?

finally, i live in the philadelphia area- any local gurus out there or fans of fine machines?
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Old 04-18-2012, 01:05 PM   #2
helion42
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I'm not sure on Airheads as I'm pretty new to them, but a lot of vehicles you can just replace the clutch plate as long as the other mating surfaces are good and in spec. If it's really glazed, the pressure plate or FW might need machining.

You're always better off replacing the pressure plate as well, but it sounds like you could just burnish it (be an asshole to the clutch to de-glaze it) like you would brakes that have gotten too smooth.
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Old 04-18-2012, 03:19 PM   #3
disston
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The correct way to rebuild an Airhead clutch is replace all 4 parts. Skimping can lead to a clutch that slips, either right away or later.

There is one option that I'm aware of. And it will save you about 50% on cost of parts

http://www.southlandclutch.com/

Not done this myself but have seen many rave reviews.
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Old 04-18-2012, 05:38 PM   #4
2GbeemerLUV OP
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Thanks. I went ahead and bought all 4 components today. Any suggestions on the install? How about any "while you're in there"'s
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Old 04-18-2012, 06:21 PM   #5
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Me?

I would have sent that clutch systenm out to Southland Clutch for a complete refurbishment. (The advertise in the Airhead rag.)

They can machine your worn parts and then and then reface the clutch disc using better materials and the service is pretty cheap. I'm keeping some old clutch parts on the shelf just-in-case.
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Old 04-18-2012, 06:21 PM   #6
disston
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Rear main oil seal and oil pump O-ring

The oil pump cover on a '75 machine still has the counter sunk Phillips screw heads. If they all come out neatly then you are good to go but if any are messed up or any of the threads have to be HeliCoiled then new screws will not be available. The later style oil pump cover uses a standard bolt head and the new cover is counter sunk for clearance. So if there is any trouble with the cover or screws you have now then the new cover and bolts must be substituted.

Check the throw out parts in the transmission. Change tiny bearing if any appearence of stress. I change this if I think it is old. That bearing can go suddenly. I don't like the design.

You need a torque wrench or two for these parts in oil pump cover and clutch pressure plate and flywheel bolts.
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disston screwed with this post 04-18-2012 at 06:45 PM
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Old 04-18-2012, 07:38 PM   #7
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And block the crankshaft if you remove the flywheel!!!!!
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Old 04-29-2012, 04:53 PM   #8
2GbeemerLUV OP
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Should there be a specific ft/lbs on the 6 bolts holding the clutch to the flywheel? I think I've heard of this, but can't find the number.
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Old 04-29-2012, 08:34 PM   #9
disston
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I just checked Clymer's manual. The big black one. It says 17 ft/lbs. I think that's right.

You do need a smaller torque wrench to get that small a setting. Something from 0 to 25 ft/lbs would be OK but this is also where the in/lb wrenches are used. 12 x 17 = 204 in/lbs. 190 to 200 would work fine.

Do not use Locktight. Assemble dry. Who ever had been in my clutch before me sometime had two left hands. Bunches of the bolts and screws were overtightened, corners rounded off and they weren't very happy. They are not called for to be renewed but I put in all new bolts and they are now doing just fine.

I also had to repair a thread in the block for the oil pump cover and so changed to the new style cover and 4 new bolts there. And the flywheel bolts are not called for renewing either but I did. Just because the manual says "you can" reuse the old bolts doesn't mean "you have to" use the old bolts.
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