ADVrider

Go Back   ADVrider > Bikes > Old's Cool > Airheads
User Name
Password
Register Inmates Photos Site Rules Search Today's Posts Mark Forums Read

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
Old 04-19-2012, 08:00 AM   #1
Barbadi OP
Gnarly Adventurer
 
Joined: Apr 2010
Location: Athens, Greece
Oddometer: 123
Question Need spiritual help on resurrecting my old lady...

My R 80 g/s died suddenly while running perfectly. We went over a big speed bump and the engine just died. The battery is fine, the starter motor turns fine, the lights, horn etc come on but the lady stands as still as Greek economy. I yanked and spray cleaned every cable and cable port I could reach, still nothing.

Ignition coils (latest bmw version) I measured gave a reading of 0,96 ohm for primary coil and 12,68 Kohm for the secondary coil. I 'm not really good with the multimeter and electronic stuff (I just tried to follow haynes guide lines as best as I could) so I don't trust my findings to indicate that I should fork the money for a new coil with any certainty. I just checked it cause adv wisdom states that when in bad weather or bumps airheads die of bad coils. Haynes states that the resistances should be between 1,15 -1,32 ohms for primary and 7,50 kohm -9,15 kohm.

I also guess that it couldn't be any spark plug or spark plug caps or their leads as it would be rather unlikely that they both fail together so no sign of engine poping goes on. Once I had a cut spark plug cable and the machine started poping with the one of the two cylinders. My wiring loom is also fairly new, I changed it a few years back.

Any ideas? Suggestions? Old airhead mandras?

What should be the proper priority I give to start suspecting components?
Barbadi is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-19-2012, 08:05 AM   #2
mykill
odd
 
mykill's Avatar
 
Joined: Feb 2008
Location: Los Angeles
Oddometer: 1,157
Trace power

From a bump to dead, there is a good chance it is a bad connection.
Have you fiddled with the kill switch? A very likely culprit.
Do you have power to the coils with the key on? if so, check connections to the ICU and bean can. If not, trace back to ignition switch.
This will be simple.
__________________
Never underestimate the laxative properties of motorcycling.
mykill is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-19-2012, 10:18 AM   #3
Barbadi OP
Gnarly Adventurer
 
Joined: Apr 2010
Location: Athens, Greece
Oddometer: 123
Is there a possibility to have indicator lights on and starter motor working and at the same time the kill switch off?
Barbadi is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-19-2012, 03:41 PM   #4
SOLO LOBO
airhead or nothing
 
SOLO LOBO's Avatar
 
Joined: Mar 2004
Location: Shoreline, WA
Oddometer: 8,567
Do you have spark? I am going to guess no
__________________
"punkrocks what it's all about" - J. Strummer



Quote:
Originally Posted by Stagehand
your bike is suitably dirty. Well done.
SOLO LOBO is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-19-2012, 05:01 PM   #5
hardwaregrrl
You talkin' to me?
 
hardwaregrrl's Avatar
 
Joined: Jan 2006
Location: Atlanta
Oddometer: 6,946
Certainly sounds like a bad connection. i just had this happen and it ended up being a broken wire to my igniton switch. I bet it's something real simple, and cheap to fix.
hardwaregrrl is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-20-2012, 06:32 AM   #6
Barbadi OP
Gnarly Adventurer
 
Joined: Apr 2010
Location: Athens, Greece
Oddometer: 123
Well I tried to find any broken or loose wire by eye and hand inspection but zero effect. I also sprayed everything with electrical contact spray. Nothing. Now I need some advice on where to start looking first since my electrical power is there and my starter motor is turning. How do you recoment I check for spark? Should I just pul out the spark plug cable or the hole spurk plug with the cap and cable and press the button?
Barbadi is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-20-2012, 07:09 AM   #7
LonerDave
Gnarly Adventurer
 
LonerDave's Avatar
 
Joined: Aug 2011
Location: Lisbon, WI
Oddometer: 118
To check for spark: remove plug, reconnect wire, ground plug to engine (touch it to case), crank and see if spark jumps gap in plug. Of course, be careful not to make your self "part of the circuit".

Or spark testers are available for $10 or so. I have one that is simply placed next to the wire and senses current through induction. Easy-peasy.
LonerDave is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-20-2012, 07:43 AM   #8
Barbadi OP
Gnarly Adventurer
 
Joined: Apr 2010
Location: Athens, Greece
Oddometer: 123
Thanks for the "how to". When I was young we did it this way on jap bikes but I 've heard that doing it to beamers causes it to fry some circuit or something. I 'll give it a go.
Barbadi is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-20-2012, 08:05 AM   #9
Wirespokes
Beemerholics Anonymous
 
Wirespokes's Avatar
 
Joined: Jul 2002
Location: Jackson's Bottom Oregon
Oddometer: 7,880
You won't fry anything if the plug is grounded - touch the threads to the cylinder head.

To check for voltage at the coil - connect the voltmeter with black lead to battery minus (ground), and red lead to coil terminal #15. With ignition turned on you should see 12.7 volts. Do this quickly because the ICU will turn off after a few seconds once it detects the engine isn't spinning.
__________________
Wanted: Dead, smashed, crashed or trashed gauges
BMW GAUGE REPAIRS - TACH*SPEEDO*CLOCK*VOLT METER *PODs & LIGHT BOARD*
Wirespokes is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-20-2012, 11:07 AM   #10
LonerDave
Gnarly Adventurer
 
LonerDave's Avatar
 
Joined: Aug 2011
Location: Lisbon, WI
Oddometer: 118
I think the danger of frying something (the coil) comes when the impulse doesn't have a place to go. Grounding the plug allows it to go to ground.

Also believe that high-energy ignitions are more susceptible to this type of damage, but don't know if your bike has one. 1980 G/S?
LonerDave is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-20-2012, 11:31 AM   #11
Barbadi OP
Gnarly Adventurer
 
Joined: Apr 2010
Location: Athens, Greece
Oddometer: 123
Although its not polite to speak of a lady's age, mine is a 1984 G/S. Its voltage regulator is the latest type, as is the ignition coils and diode board. I 've changed them through the 11 years I rode her.
Barbadi is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-20-2012, 10:40 PM   #12
OZbeemer
Gnarly Adventurer
 
OZbeemer's Avatar
 
Joined: Aug 2008
Location: OZaukee county Wisconsin
Oddometer: 424
I know it sounds too simple, but did you check how well the connectors at the battery are connected to the wires? I once stood on the side of the road for over an hour chasing a gremlin that turned out to be a bad connection between wire and terminal on a battery connection.
OZbeemer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-21-2012, 10:34 AM   #13
Barbadi OP
Gnarly Adventurer
 
Joined: Apr 2010
Location: Athens, Greece
Oddometer: 123
First think I checked as I had a visit from the same f@cken gremlin three years ago.
Barbadi is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-10-2013, 12:14 PM   #14
Barbadi OP
Gnarly Adventurer
 
Joined: Apr 2010
Location: Athens, Greece
Oddometer: 123
News from the battlefront:

well remember that I had no spark?

I performed all the tests in the Haynes manual and I could not point my finger to the guilty part. I had changed my ignition coils anyway -on the old airhead mandra "if your sparks are gone its the coils"- but stil no sparks.

So I ordered a ignition control unit from motorworks and -drumroll- we got sparks! BUT!

The old lady still is semidead cause as soon as I had sparks I tried to get her to work and the mfckn starter motor gave up on me draining all my current.

In the process it killed my jumper battery kit also and did a trick on my cars -Citroen C3- battery.

The starter demands over 3000 rpms on the car to start revolving pretty slow, the bike poped and banged a few times and it finelly worked -caughing huge clouds of black smoke- but it died after seconds and never had any electrical juice again to make roar again. I took the starter motor -Bosch 0.001.157.023- expecting to see the brushes minimized.

The brushes seem fine and they are over 12,5 mm in length BUT the commutator that the brushes are rolling on is on a diameter of 32,8 mm. The Haynes manual says the minimum diameter should be over 33mm.
Is the armature junk material?
Has anyone measured his armature?
Should I buy a single armature, or a hole starter motor? (its a 1984 item after all). But I 'm in Greece and the postal fees of a 6 kilos item are pretty bitter on my limited budget. Any cheap euro sources?

Please don't turn this post in a Bosch vs Valeo stand-off, (not to mention the Denso saga) IF I have to go to a new starter altogether I ll go with the cheapest I can get, Valeo probably.

BUT I need info on a possible starter motor rebuild.

I am unemployed and Greek. Cheapest alternatives will be appreciated. Thanks!
Barbadi is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-11-2013, 02:13 AM   #15
Barbadi OP
Gnarly Adventurer
 
Joined: Apr 2010
Location: Athens, Greece
Oddometer: 123
Laugh OK, to save the next contributor a few words.

I, ve done every check in the Haynes manual. No go and no spark until I changed the ignition control unit, -as haynes suggested when something goes to the grey area- and the sparks where back.

I supposed that it would be clear and profound that since I did all the haynes tests I did it with a multimeter. What else would I checked electrical components and circuits with? My dick and a small 9V battery up my butt?

Plaka I appreciate your time and effort but if I had no idea of all the thinks you wrote, the only think you should have said should be "keep away from the bike, call the truck and take it to the shop". But you seem to enjoy the old preacher style so I won't spoil it for you. I just wish you also knew what is the proper commutator diameter, instead of the military vehicle's voltage. I'm not trying to fix a Hammer here. And yes I 've concluded my army service.

Of course I 've tested the starter motor on the bench. It doesn't do shit. Not even with the car's battery. The solenoid works ok alone and unpluged from the starter, but the starter motor works only with the battery on the car and the rpms up, so I guess it needs too much current.

I 've checked also that there is no continuity between armature and commutator.

So to my simple knowledge the question is why and how to fix the current consumption. Cheap. If I am about to give a 100 bucks for an item I might as well go hunting for either a used secondhand starter motor or a chinese/french knock off.

But first thing first. So I 'm going down to the shed and dremmel down these commutator lines deeper and see what happens. Thanks anyway. Anybody else has any other idea?
Barbadi is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Share

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

.
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On

Forum Jump


Times are GMT -7.   It's 05:45 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.5
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright ADVrider 2011-2014