My next evil project.....

[zgfiredude]

Any way to re-program the super lean mixture in order to lower temps?

Swing by your local fire department and see if they will use their Thermal Imager on the cat to help you see what
the temps really are......

[ebrabaek]

Originally Posted by zgfiredude

Any way to re-program the super lean mixture in order to lower temps?

Swing by your local fire department and see if they will use their Thermal Imager on the cat to help you see what
the temps really are......

Ha-ha....nice.......... I have been contemplating the PC-5 with auto tune for a while now....... but first is a set of headers. In retrospect it was really my own fault, as I ventured out in waters that was somewhat unknown to me. I thought that with IR meter...and thermocouples...I knew the temp....but I totally underestimated it... As a matter of fact I wasn't even close..... Knowing the epoxy....seeing the stress it underwent...... I am guessing temps in the 600-700 deg. area. It broke down hard. But that construction was not right..... as the polymer disintegrated.....the matrix migrated ever so slightly into the airstream....effectively creating a hot spot. The addition of the ring works....and after several miles....and a check...All is well...Problem solved. I am not sure yet....but it seems like I have picked up a few MP/g's as well..... Not sure really as it is too early after only 150 miles on the clock... But the average mp/g indicator always were around 47-49 average.... on the first 150 miles...it now sits at 54.... But with the so minute differences....that would be hard to believe. I will report back after a few tank's.

[MTrider16]

Retuning the mixture will nullify the catalyst. The cat needs that specific mixture to function. Worst case scenario is burning up the catalyst with too much fuel, most likely scenario is post cat emissions very similar to pre cat emissions.

Was there some machining oil residue on the ss core? I have seen oil on metal polish rods turn blue around 400F and could be easily removed with scotch brite. Equipment we run.

David

[ebrabaek]

Originally Posted by MTrider16

Retuning the mixture will nullify the catalyst. The cat needs that specific mixture to function. Worst case scenario is burning up the catalyst with too much fuel, most likely scenario is post cat emissions very similar to pre cat emissions.

Was there some machining oil residue on the ss core? I have seen oil on metal polish rods turn blue around 400F and could be easily removed with scotch brite. Equipment we run.

David

Yeppers..... That is in part why I will not PC it before riding the bike of the CAT.... and It is not efficient tuning with the CAT sort of nullify whatever little gain there is to be had... A free flowing system is easier to tune efficiently....and a better gain can be expected. As far as the core... It was beautiful....blued... No residue at all... My other BB single thumper is carbed and dynoed 55rwhp..... but is jetted for power, and that one has a slightly sooded core and not blue. I clocked 425 deg.F with a thermocouple in there....but the line was only long enough to get it half way in there....and as the picture indicated...bluing begins about 2-3 inches in....and stops 4-5 inches towards the end. I am totally confident all is well regarding the temps..... I just got caught.... I knew the 8GS has a lean running map....My guess coupled with a very efficient CAT operation....makes a hot running pipe..... Anyway... Problem is solved with the better system....

[gbtw]

So how is it holding up after a few months on the bike?

[ebrabaek]

Originally Posted by gbtw

So how is it holding up after a few months on the bike?

It is holding up fantastic. I am now sure I have spiced up a few mpg now. Before I was averaging 51-53...... I am now at 53-55 mpg. It still sounds fantastic...... No heat stress whatsoever, after I changed the inner ring.
I have had a lot of people commenting on the exit cone. No stress cracks from bashing up and down in the dirt...... Would do this again.

[gbtw]

Originally Posted by ebrabaek

It is holding up fantastic. I am now sure I have spiced up a few mpg now. Before I was averaging 51-53...... I am now at 53-55 mpg. It still sounds fantastic...... No heat stress whatsoever, after I changed the inner ring.
I have had a lot of people commenting on the exit cone. No stress cracks from bashing up and down in the dirt...... Would do this again.

Ok cool, how long do you think your packing material will last. On most aftermarket pipes the longevity is appalling, is why i am wondering.

[ebrabaek]

Originally Posted by gbtw

Ok cool, how long do you think your packing material will last. On most aftermarket pipes the longevity is appalling, is why i am wondering.

The glass that is used in high performance pipes, is very durable, and does not easily get blown out. The stuff I used I think will be good for at least 5 years.... Perhaps 8-10...... So far, I have used it on the thumper pipe build, for about 3 years now..... perhaps 4, and there is no difference in sound levels.....which means all is still good.

[gbtw]

Originally Posted by ebrabaek

The glass that is used in high performance pipes, is very durable, and does not easily get blown out. The stuff I used I think will be good for at least 5 years.... Perhaps 8-10...... So far, I have used it on the thumper pipe build, for about 3 years now..... perhaps 4, and there is no difference in sound levels.....which means all is still good.

Cool thanks :)

[biodieselandon]

Originally Posted by señormoto

I have arrow headers on mine. Can't speak for the other makers but, as you probably know, Arrow makes world class stuff. Super clean welds, proper bend radiuses, etc etc. They mate up to any standard F8 exhaust diameter as well, so there's no issue with fitting other brands of mufflers.

Don't mean to hijack but are the Arrow headers larger diameter like the Remus or is the purpose just to eliminate the Cat? I want to get the new Touratech Expedition skid plate but they don't seem to think it will work with the Remus headers. I have heard the Arrow setup will work with any skid plate.

[ebrabaek]

Originally Posted by biodieselandon

Don't mean to hijack but are the Arrow headers larger diameter like the Remus or is the purpose just to eliminate the Cat? I want to get the new Touratech Expedition skid plate but they don't seem to think it will work with the Remus headers. I have heard the Arrow setup will work with any skid plate.

I believe Senormoto, is in south America, so it might take a while for him to get back, But there are several skid plate threads in here, that will yield your answer.

[biodieselandon]

Originally Posted by ebrabaek

I believe Senormoto, is in south America, so it might take a while for him to get back, But there are several skid plate threads in here, that will yield your answer.

That's gotta be rough. What I would trade to be there instead of the Cold NW!

[ebrabaek]

Originally Posted by biodieselandon

That's gotta be rough. What I would trade to be there instead of the Cold NW!

Ha ha.....

[ebrabaek]

So..... Another long term update. The pipe is holding up well. I did decide to change one thing though. I sort of were expecting this from the getgo, but gave the original a try. The thermal coefficient of expansion of Carbon Fiber is vastly different than, in this case Stainless steel. The steel is expanding quite a lot more than CF. Just like water busting your waterpipe when freezing, the SS inlet pipe were expanding the SS to CF color with the heat cycling. It created a small void, that I personally did have no issues with, if it wasn't for the fact that with repeated cycles slowely pushed CF into the airstream of the hot exhaust gasses. So I thought of a good way to create a barrier. I had some red high temp silicone that is good to 650 deg. F. and it works like a champ. Cold it looks like this......


And after a day of riding, the now smaller space in between is putting a small squeeze,which you can see on a little red silicone protruding, and it then settles back..... Yay.....