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Old 04-25-2012, 11:48 PM   #16
GodOmelet OP
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Lucky duck

Quote:
Originally Posted by mykill View Post
There doesn't seem to be much bending before snapping off so, re-use of the broken piece works. I had one that my local welding shop welded back without disassembling the tranny. I could have filed it and blasted it until it was hard to see, but it is in a hard to see place anyway. Many happy miles since. Mind you, my local welder is a fellow motorcyclist and does a lot of case repair for fallen Japanese bikes, so he is used to welding in place.
I swear I called or emailed every bike shop, machine shop, and welder in a 100 mile radius of Richmond, and I got a lot of blank looks so to speak. Those who actually replied or answered my call just said, "we don't weld cast aluminum," or "Motorcycle? Forget it." I was bending over backwards too. Offering to take the tranny out and deliver it washed, and perfumed and with a friggin bow on it and still no one but Mike would even look at it, god bless him. I am nominating him for machinist sainthood.
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Old 04-26-2012, 12:34 AM   #17
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Glad to hear you found someone who looks like they know what they are doing, and wont make things worse!
Good luck!
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Old 04-26-2012, 02:56 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GodOmelet View Post
Glad you agree with my theory of how it broke. I still was wondering whether I was somehow negligent on a bike I've only had since February.
Nah, stuff just happens.

Semi-related obscure-inquiry since we have a channel open:

1973 /5 4-speed, many happy miles. Over the years the bore for the pin in the clutch release arm has worn from use. The bore is slightly egg-shaped and you can wiggle the clutch arm on the pin a little. It's not about to fail and it works perfectly, it's just getting a little long in the tooth.

Replacement arm is a bit expensive ($80) and I can't justify plunking down that much to snug things up. On the /5, the pin (and bore) are 7mm dia. On later models the pin is 8mm dia. I'm wondering if the bore in the clutch arm (and the holes in the mounting boss on the tranny) could be bored to 8mm +clearance and the newer pin be used?

Been toying with this idea for a while...
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Old 04-26-2012, 08:15 AM   #19
Wirespokes
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GodOmelet View Post
I still was wondering whether I was somehow negligent on a bike I've only had since February.
It's a known problem - when the pin slides down, the next time the clutch is engaged, the sideways torque on the single boss shears it off.

If you stay with the stock pin - it's got a groove at the bottom - run a safety wire from that groove to the adjuster bolt. If the clip breaks or falls out, the pin can't drop out.
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Old 04-26-2012, 09:16 AM   #20
disston
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The pins can fall out because the clip fails or falls off. I've messed with this on my /6 some and once when buying a brand new pin and clip from a dealer I got parts that wouldn't hold. The clip was destined to not stay in place. I pointed this out to the parts person and he went in the back to return with a clip that would click into place. He told me that several others didn't seem to fit very well but the one I ended up with will work. I still have it BTW.

I currently have a pin and clip from a parts transmission and it is original. The replacement pins have the clip moved to the outside of the ears, the original has the clip on the inside. The original design is only slightly better tho.

All in all it is a poor design. To have a major part of the bike brake in a fashion that could be prevented I think is poor design. If an owner has the original parts they should be told they need lubrication. The fit of the clip is important. But the bolt substitution for the pin is probably better all around.

I left out the part about the original clip now being an E-clip. It makes the story too confusing.
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Old 04-26-2012, 09:34 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wirespokes View Post
Yeah, it's not so much the lube as the pin sliding down out of the upper boss and breaking the lower. Some guys run a bolt from the top side and nyloc nut from the bottom just for safe measure. No way that'll fall out.
Absolutely! I'm going to pick up a few of these bolt solutions on my next trip to the hardware store (we have a good one), one for me, one for Renner (we busted his pin up taking the transmission out)

Quote:
Originally Posted by disston View Post
The pins can fall out because the clip fails or falls off. I've messed with this on my /6 some and once when buying a brand new pin and clip from a dealer I got parts that wouldn't hold. The clip was destined to not stay in place. I pointed this out to the parts person and he went in the back to return with a clip that would click into place. He told me that several others didn't seem to fit very well but the one I ended up with will work. I still have it BTW.

I currently have a pin and clip from a parts transmission and it is original. The replacement pins have the clip moved to the outside of the ears, the original has the clip on the inside. The original design is only slightly better tho.

All in all it is a poor design. To have a major part of the bike brake in a fashion that could be prevented I think is poor design. If an owner has the original parts they should be told they need lubrication. The fit of the clip is important. But the bolt substitution for the pin is probably better all around.

I left out the part about the original clip now being an E-clip. It makes the story too confusing.
i was very surprised at the design. my clip goes between the ears and is virtually invisible if you don't know it is there. and the pin slides out either direction once the clip is out! how hard would it have been to put a shoulder on the top side?

I hadn't realized the ears could be fixed/welded! great thread!
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Old 04-28-2012, 12:31 AM   #22
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Completed Weld of Clutch Release Lever Boss/Mount

Hey everyone,

I am glad to say that the weld looks pretty good. It's beefy, and not too ugly. I'm gonna lube up the splines and the lever itself and put the whole fnarking thing back in!... Just as soon as I finish doing the rear main seal, the clutch, and get the circlip I ordered. Oh well one step at a time. Here are the pics:





I have since filed it down some more and then polished it a bit... Mike was doing that when I arrived and I was like hey man wait I can do that for less than $100/hr!

One question, should the pin rotate completely freely? I'm getting a little binding. I noticed also that the pin suffered some scratches/marring when the break occured, or perhaps as the break started to happen after the circlip fell out. Should I just get a new pin, and do my best to hone the inner bearing surface? Thanks everybody who took time to weigh in on this one.

GodOmelet screwed with this post 04-28-2012 at 12:42 AM
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Old 04-28-2012, 08:37 AM   #23
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I'd want the pin smooth - so carefully touch it up with a fine stone to remove the high points. I actually kind of think the pin shouldn't rotate in the bosses, though there's nothing to stop that happening. Don't worry about the tight fit, which is actually much better than sloppy.

Looking closely at the undamaged boss - is that a crack I see?
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Old 04-28-2012, 12:19 PM   #24
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Pins and Needles

Quote:
Originally Posted by Wirespokes View Post
I'd want the pin smooth - so carefully touch it up with a fine stone to remove the high points. I actually kind of think the pin shouldn't rotate in the bosses, though there's nothing to stop that happening. Don't worry about the tight fit, which is actually much better than sloppy.

Looking closely at the undamaged boss - is that a crack I see?
Yeah I was thinking as long as everything is smooth and there's enough grease in there, all will be well. I just wonder if for instance if it gets too dry and the pin won't rotate and for some reason the lever starts to bind on the pin... anyway, I'll make sure that all contacting surfaces are as close to mirror polish as possible. I'm going to take your advice on the safety wire around the big groove in the pin just to be safe. That is a funky design isn't it?

One thing that does concern me a bit is that when I reassemble the lever, along with the clutch pushrod, thrust bearing, felt, etc, when I operate the lever by hand, the pushrod does not seem to move in and out especially smoothly. I don't know what it's supposed to feel like, but I seems to bind a bit. It could be because the length of travel is actually fairly short and I am moving the lever beyond this amount and encountering resistance as a result. I'll look up the travel distance to make sure that isn't the problem. I haven't replaced the felt or the thrust seal yet either.

As to the crack, I'm not sure what you are referring to. There are some grooves on the inside face of the mount, but I don't think there are any cracks. I'll double check now for sure though. Maybe even have to break out some Prussian blue... Thanks.
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Old 04-28-2012, 01:14 PM   #25
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I had mine break off once:



I took the transmission off and took it to a local welding shop, without the broken-off piece. For $20 they gave me this:



..and I did this:

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Old 04-28-2012, 01:39 PM   #26
disston
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I think I see what WS is calling a crack. It doesn't seem to go all the way though so it's probably a piece of lint or a hair.

I think the lever once installed on the pin should rotate with out binding. The pin doesn't have to rotate at all.
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Old 04-28-2012, 06:02 PM   #27
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Yeah, I see that crack looking thing too. so check it out.

A replacment rear trans cover runs about $100 but won't that mean a trans reshim?

Other than that, it looks like CDD has the pin situation figured out and no, I wouldnt want any binding in the system.
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Old 04-28-2012, 07:05 PM   #28
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Nice

Quote:
Originally Posted by crazydrummerdude View Post
I had mine break off once:



I took the transmission off and took it to a local welding shop, without the broken-off piece. For $20 they gave me this:



..and I did this:

That looks sweet, AND safe. $20? Damn! I am tempted to toss the pin and do this instead. Is that a stainless bolt? Do you find that the lever action is smooth? Looks like all you'd have to do is grease it once in a while to keep everything lubed up. Or as Frank Zappa would put it- "Keep it greasy so it'll ...go down easy...."
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Old 04-28-2012, 07:09 PM   #29
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Crack

Quote:
Originally Posted by Wirespokes View Post
I'd want the pin smooth - so carefully touch it up with a fine stone to remove the high points. I actually kind of think the pin shouldn't rotate in the bosses, though there's nothing to stop that happening. Don't worry about the tight fit, which is actually much better than sloppy.

Looking closely at the undamaged boss - is that a crack I see?
I think I see now what you are talking about. I'm definitely going to check that out, but I'm pretty sure it's just a bad picture or hair from the Husky.
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Old 04-28-2012, 08:45 PM   #30
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I sure hope it's just a hair! But if it isn't, this is the time to take care of it.

As for the throwout bearing binding in the bore - that is something to watch for. Inspect the bore for roughness and carefully smooth it out if so. Sometimes they get wallowed out. I had one cover repaired by the machinist and he fixed the bore by inserting a brass sleeve. It was really hogged out!
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