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Old 07-09-2012, 03:34 AM   #136
JonnyCash
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Nice video. My only gripe is that the camera operator must have a dislike for two strokes. I could hear one the whole time, but no view of it.
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Old 07-13-2012, 05:14 AM   #137
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Wink Carbs

I've been lent a pair of DelLorto 32mm carbs. 36mm would be better, but this is what I've got for now. These should be better than the CV Bings I've been running.



Italian carbs on a German bike. Heh...
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Old 07-13-2012, 05:44 AM   #138
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32mm is quite small. I use 40mm dels on my 1000cc airhead.
36mm Amals on the 750 Norton ( but they're a bit too bog for most tracks).
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Old 07-13-2012, 11:37 AM   #139
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Better than the Bings? Probably so but that is saying very little. They are too small and setting up the carbs is super critical and time consuming. Start with something bigger. I would shoot for rubber mounted Dells too. Rigid mounted carbs were already old fashioned when the R90S for came out. Why? Vibration and heat transfer.
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Old 07-13-2012, 11:55 AM   #140
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Small carbs help with torque.
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Old 07-13-2012, 12:18 PM   #141
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Improve torque? Comparing 32mm Bings to Dell's and Mikuni's, so do bigger carbs with more top end than the their smaller siblings. Why not have it all? It's rare when you can and in this case you can.
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Old 07-13-2012, 12:49 PM   #142
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I run 36mm on my R90 race bike with some 60 mm screened trumpets to keep out rocks and small children.
I bought them years ago to put on my Ducati which has 32mm carbs. Never bothered at the Ducati goes so well and its a torque monster in a way BMW owners can only dream about.
20 years ago I fitted 40mm Dells to an R100 with twin plugs, later flywheel etc and it ran really well and behaved nicely.

36's would probably go nicely on a 750 BMW race bike.
Best prices I have found is Bevel Heaven, I'd avoid used ones and slides are very expensive and they wear out.
The PFM series covers 30 to 36 i think....then it PHM for 38/40

SS is right on the rubber mount, I have mine fixed but with a thick insulator sleeve.....works but not ideal.
I use a Tommaselli twin pull , works nice, and cables are easy to make up, would suggest the 45 degree turning sleeve for nice smooth cable route.

dang.....its Saturday and I have to go to work....might take the Norton for a blast...
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Old 07-13-2012, 02:13 PM   #143
Airhead Wrangler
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Voltaire View Post
The PFM series covers 30 to 36 i think....then it PHM for 38/40
30-36 is PHF
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Old 07-13-2012, 02:32 PM   #144
Voltaire
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Airhead Wrangler View Post
30-36 is PHF
wot he said......I should have gone to spec savers.....
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Old 07-13-2012, 10:13 PM   #145
supershaft
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PHM's come in 41mm too.

I hear what you are saying about air cooled Ducati's and low rpm power. That is until the new retro ducks came out. They have very little low rpm power. Not near enough IMO. Beemer riders have a clue if they have ridden old K100's. Their power curve reminds me of older ducks.

Personally, I think you are better off tilting the Dells in just a bit and running the cables without the elbow for easier pull. That and light Dell springs. Disconnecting the pumps really lightens the pull too besides really quickening your rev through the midrange if rejetted correctly.
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Old 07-13-2012, 11:28 PM   #146
Voltaire
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might give the tilted carb idea a try....saves me having to re solder the nipples...
I'd look at Mikunis but we are not allowed any Jap parts in classic racing here.

I had a rubber bandy 2 valve Duke for a couple of years, 80 hp they said....would rev to over 9k.... a real licence looser...
sort of gave the feeling of the bevel but not quite.....its long gone but the bevel remains...
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Old 07-24-2012, 03:51 AM   #147
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Wink Big plans...

I'm formulating some big plans for this bike. It might be done and over for racing this season - all for the better racing next year and beyond.

We can build it better, faster, stronger...and hopefully for less than $6M.
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Old 08-01-2012, 12:29 PM   #148
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Cool2 Improvements

I've been studying up on high compression pistons and lifted motors. The bike is definitely done for this year. Cylinders are already off the motor block. Siebenrock has some mighty nice looking items.

Lifting the motor (obviously) requires some fabrication. Anyone have any first hand experience? I have seen that one method is to put the rear motor mounts through the center of the frame with the front bolts on top of the frame. There are also kits that raise the motor without any welding. I think the drilling/welding route is the better method.
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Old 08-01-2012, 01:07 PM   #149
Voltaire
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My engineer mate makes these,I have a set on my bike.
The sleeves are tapped and go thru the motor. The rear mounts get drilled and tapped when you line up the engine/box/swingarm to your liking. All the original engine covers still fit too but you need to move the coils a few mm.

Raises the front up about 30mm.Overlap on shaft/final drive is reduced by about 5-8 mm.
I have touched the RH head down on a few occasions as I'm not much of a hanger offer....( maybe I need a set of Continental )
We tried out the welding method on a stuffed frame but decided the bolt in one would do as racer may go back on road one day....

Voltaire screwed with this post 08-01-2012 at 01:12 PM Reason: adding more rivetting details...
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Old 08-01-2012, 01:07 PM   #150
Padmei
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FreeTheBeast View Post
I've been studying up on high compression pistons and lifted motors. The bike is definitely done for this year. Cylinders are already off the motor block. Siebenrock has some mighty nice looking items.

Lifting the motor (obviously) requires some fabrication. Anyone have any first hand experience? I have seen that one method is to put the rear motor mounts through the center of the frame with the front bolts on top of the frame. There are also kits that raise the motor without any welding. I think the drilling/welding route is the better method.

You may want to talk to Voltaire

http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=808692
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