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Old 07-09-2013, 03:35 PM   #466
spokenerd
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Mine is hard to start below 60 F. I've found that giving it a kick start as I press the magic button fires it right up.
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Old 07-10-2013, 12:32 AM   #467
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Originally Posted by everetto View Post
Your question/timing is perfect - it looks like the Owner's Manual says to check the clearances at ONE hour...... and I will obviously want to learn how to check/set the valves myself seeing you have to do it so often.

I have set valves on plenty of bikes in the past, I just want to use some sort of official procedure the first time. Is there a downloadable Service Manual from KTM, or at least a procedure someone has put out there?

Update - I just found your own very thorough write-up of the procedure - awesome job, and I will be doing this soon. Thank you for the documentation!
My pleasure, sir! - ET
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Old 07-10-2013, 09:29 PM   #468
GratefulKicks
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We've had so much rain here in Vermont in the past 6 weeks I've barely been able to get on the bike. Finally today I got out for a bit...reminded how much I like the 350 xcfw.







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Old 07-11-2013, 04:19 AM   #469
kjclark7
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i am also having a similar issue/problem in starting my bike with the estart but i have the '13 350 xcfw (no key switch). on the first start of the day, it usually takes between 3 and 5 hits of the estart to get it going. after the bike warms up, then it will start first hit of the estart.
i only have 11 hrs on the bike now and its probably been doing this since 5 hrs or so. prior to that, it would start up the first push of the estart.
i've had the tps changed, the valves are all within spec (2 are on the tight side but still within spec) so i don't know what the issue is.
i've talked to a number of service guys at different dealers and each one has a different story. some say that the way i describe is normal, some say that the estart is the secondary starting system and to use the kickstart and some other variations in between these two.
to me, it seems that the bike is not getting enough fuel on startup. i usually hit the button for a second to prime the fuel pump so maybe next time around, i'll try to prime it twice. i don't know, just a shot in the dark.
other than this startup issue, i'm super happy with the bike and how it rides.

heres a 5 minute video of last weeks ride
http://youtu.be/XWFrvFkl2jE
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Old 07-11-2013, 05:52 AM   #470
everetto
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Starting, continued......

As several folks here posted, I am learning that the "reset" involved when you cycle the kill switch appears to make a real difference. Yesterday morning I was going to do a short ride to warm up the oil before the 1st oil change, and the bike would not start (meaning turn key on, try estart many many times, as battery starts to get low then try to kick start - it would not even kick start). Note all this time the key was on, and NOT turned off/on again. Then I remembered the advice here about cycling the kill switch - I did that and the bike freaking started...... so from now on if it does not start I will obviously do the kill switch cycle. I suspect that had I turned the key off then on again it also would have started (that recycle should be the same as the kill switch recycle, at least it "sounds' the same).

Early in this thread there were several posts about critical minimum voltage (and current?) needed for starting the bike and I am wondering if the stock battery is not quite enough. We probably need to distinguish between having enough voltage and CCA to turn over the engine, while simultaneously having enough juice for the ignition and injection systems. A battery upgrade may be in my future.
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Old 07-11-2013, 09:27 AM   #471
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Mystery Oil

A friend of mine and I rode 200 miles of fairly easy dirt a couple days ago. I had just done an oil change the day before the ride. I never dropped the bike. I didn't hit any large rocks, stumps or animals. I have a KTM hardparts aluminum skidplate. The ride went well and I parked my bike in the shop for the night and headed to work. The next day I helped a friend change his tires. He pointed over to my bike and there was oil pooled around under my case on the ground. We took off the skidplate and I was thinking how I torqued the bolts to spec and wondered if they leaked. Looked clean around those but behind my shifter it appeared that the gasket may have leaked. Removed shifter lever and have been working 16 hour days since. Just wondering if its even possible for that gasket behind the lever to even leak or if I need to do some more searching. Trying to get some ideas so I can utilize my time off this weekend wisely. Thanks
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Old 07-11-2013, 09:35 AM   #472
Johnrunner89
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I added at Shorai Lithium battery to my bike now it starts first crank most times. The batteries cost a fair amount but they are half the weight (and saving weight up top on the bike helps greatly), they require no tender, and have amazing cranking capabilities. I recommend them.

As far as cycling the kill switch twice before, that is a great way to get the bike to start up easier, as I've used it before.

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Old 07-11-2013, 01:05 PM   #473
gplassm
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Originally Posted by BanhXeo View Post
Looked clean around those but behind my shifter it appeared that the gasket may have leaked. Removed shifter lever and have been working 16 hour days since. Just wondering if its even possible for that gasket behind the lever to even leak or if I need to do some more searching.
Yes, it is very possible that the shift shaft seal is leaking. I have the same skid plate, and I am not certain, but it also could be leaking from the oil drain bolt. That has a copper crush washer that is supposed to be replaced every time, but rarely is.
The screen hex head also has a seal - I think that it is just an O-ring, but you could check that as well.
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Old 07-11-2013, 01:49 PM   #474
Nice_Rumble
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Wicked

Quote:
Originally Posted by GratefulKicks View Post
We've had so much rain here in Vermont in the past 6 weeks I've barely been able to get on the bike. Finally today I got out for a bit...reminded how much I like the 350 xcfw.







Nice Starr! Looks like you have some nice trails up your way. How about putting on a ride for the CCC so Wayne gets a break and we get to ride some new terrain?
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Old 07-12-2013, 08:04 PM   #475
kjclark7
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went for a ride this afternoon and I couldn't get the bike to start using the estart button. I pushed it twice to prime the fuel pump but it was a no go. I tried 6 or 7 times and finally gave it a kick and the bike started right up. but once the bike gets warm, it starts up every time with the estart. I guess I just have a bike that doesn't want to start with the estart when the bike is not warm.
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Old 07-13-2013, 04:46 AM   #476
Nice_Rumble
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kjclark7 View Post
went for a ride this afternoon and I couldn't get the bike to start using the estart button. I pushed it twice to prime the fuel pump but it was a no go. I tried 6 or 7 times and finally gave it a kick and the bike started right up. but once the bike gets warm, it starts up every time with the estart. I guess I just have a bike that doesn't want to start with the estart when the bike is not warm.
Keep your bikes on Battery Tenders when not being ridden. Keeping the batteries at full charge will help.
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Old 07-13-2013, 05:49 AM   #477
kjclark7
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Originally Posted by Nice_Rumble View Post
Keep your bikes on Battery Tenders when not being ridden. Keeping the batteries at full charge will help.
Are there any issues with putting the bike on a battery tender. I thought you were supposed to disconnect the ground before charging the battery on the bike. Well that is at least what I was told anyway. Can anyone confirm this?
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Old 07-13-2013, 05:57 AM   #478
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Originally Posted by kjclark7 View Post
Are there any issues with putting the bike on a battery tender. I thought you were supposed to disconnect the ground before charging the battery on the bike. Well that is at least what I was told anyway. Can anyone confirm this?
I've been using Battery Tenders on all my cars, trucks, sleds, mowers and and bikes for years. It's amazing how long the OEM battery will last if you do this plus knowing that it will start when you need it to. No need to disconnect the negative cable. Just hardwire the included pig tail to the battery and run the connector out behind a side panel for easy access.

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Old 07-13-2013, 07:54 AM   #479
kjclark7
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I am very familiar with the battery tenders but I heard that on our bikes, you need to disconnect the ground before you charge the battery when it is still on the bike. someone told me that it says that in the manual. I have yet to check if it actually says that or not but that was I was told.
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Old 07-13-2013, 11:59 AM   #480
kjclark7
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While doing some maintenance on the bike today, I checked the manual and on page 84 it says, "disconnect the negative cable of the battery to avoid damage to the onboard electronics." This is in the section for battery charging.
So I don't know what kind of damage will occur (all my other bikes have tenders) so for now I'll leave it off. The only difference between the 350 xcfw and my other bikes is this bike doesn't have a key switch. I don't know. I ride the bike each week so it doesn't sit long.
On a side not, when I started the bike today (cold start), I hit the estart button once to prime and the next hit started up. It wasn't an immediate start but it started up. Not like yesterday where the estart did nothing.
Maybe the bike was in a bad mood yesterday or was mad at me for some unknown reason? And since today is a new day, it was happy?
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