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04-27-2012, 12:32 PM
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#16 |
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Studly Adventurer
Joined: Jul 2010
Location: downJersie
Oddometer: 575
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with the possibility of dirt and gravel roads being hit up, i say the dl650, "weestrom" as stated, upright seating, big enough for a big guy, not overly powerful to get into trouble with. go's great in the twistie's and can go off road. will also zip on down the highway. it may be a little tall if you got short stumps, but lowering links can be had and found on the cheap usually
klr650 another good all rounder, dont let the jokes steer you away form the bike,, they are great machines. do the doohickey mod and they're bulletproof. tall bike also, lower links needed dr650 would be nice, but you would have to dump funds into the suspension for your weight. i was 225 with my dr and that was pushing it. |
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04-27-2012, 03:37 PM
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#17 |
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Studly Adventurer
Joined: Aug 2011
Location: pa.
Oddometer: 535
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although i have lifelong passion for motorcycles i tell everyone that asks me to stay away from them.
They are not for everybody. Ive just known to many that got a bike on a whim and got dead or mangled. Sorry to be so blunt but its just the way I feel about it. If you do get one I wish you the best and hope you have many miles of smiles. You will make many new freinds just because of motorcycles.
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rompin stompin tiger 800 XC rider |
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04-27-2012, 06:41 PM
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#18 |
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Grumpy Young Man
Joined: Nov 2006
Location: Spacecoaster FL
Oddometer: 3,938
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Definitely take a course or several before you buy a bike. The BRC is highly recommended, then a dirt-rider course might be good too. You'll learn how to handle a bike when the ground isn't the most even and when traction isn't the greatest.
After you get a bike, practice your drills in a safe place before venturing out on public roads. THIS is one reason I highly recommend a deal of a used dualsport as a first bike. You can even easily ride it around in a big open yard, if it's legal. They typically handle being dropped much better than streetbikes do too. You can learn to comfortably control a moto well in questionable traction conditions without having to conciously think about it. THEN you can throw traffic into the mix. Horsing around and exploring in dirt is FUN too, with less chance of losing your license from that than from screwing around on a public street. |
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04-27-2012, 09:37 PM
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#19 | |
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Gnarly Adventurer
Joined: Mar 2012
Location: West of Brisbane, Australia
Oddometer: 154
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Quote:
Yep, I'll second the XT250 as a great first/learner bike And I loooooove the TU250X... I reckon they look great and are quite comfy to sit on. Anyway, both bikes should be pretty reliable if looked after and have a pretty standard (upright) position, which is good for learning :)
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Suzuki DL650 V-Strom 2007 Suzuki DR-Z250 2009 |
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04-28-2012, 11:22 AM
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#20 |
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Gnarly Adventurer
Joined: Sep 2011
Location: Nova Scotia, CANADA
Oddometer: 142
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Used Ninja 500......
........... ' Kawasaki Ninja 500....thats what I used as my beginnier bike. Great and reliable machine!! You will find a ton of good used ones for a good price( because most people use them a year or two then move on).
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04-29-2012, 05:59 AM
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#21 |
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n00b
Joined: Apr 2012
Oddometer: 7
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Thanks all, still months away, but the yamaha XT250 is tempting for there is a dealer close by, I could spend time learning how to ride a bike on trails and so on and not asphalt with cars on the road.
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04-29-2012, 06:02 AM
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#22 |
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Studly Adventurer
Joined: Aug 2011
Location: pa.
Oddometer: 535
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very true! My wife had one but i liked to ride it.
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rompin stompin tiger 800 XC rider |
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04-29-2012, 06:55 AM
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#23 |
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rides a motorcycle
Joined: Mar 2012
Location: Napoli
Oddometer: 183
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Suzuki 250
My first bike was a TU250X (pretty sure it was a '95) that I bought while stationed in Japan. It was a blast to ride around town, quite reliable, and very easy to ride. It had two disadvantages, though. The small size that made it so easy to ride also meant the riding position got a bit cramped, even for me (5'7", 30" inseam) on a long ride and it was just not able to keep up on larger roads. It topped out at about 90kph in top gear, wide open on a flat road. I don't know if Suzuki has changed the motor any since then, or if the US model is different, so that may no longer apply. Anyway, it was a great first bike as long as you're aware of its limits, and now that I'm living in another congested city I kind of wish I had it back...
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04-29-2012, 01:11 PM
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#24 | |
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Banned
Joined: Jul 2011
Oddometer: 704
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Quote:
Learning in dirt before riding much on the street is an excellent idea. Unless you grew up riding a BMX bike or something of that sort, you have a lot to learn about the dynamics of riding a 2 wheeled vehicle, and riding the dirt is the very best way to do that. The XT 250 would be a very good choice for your first bike. Don't forget to buy the best safety gear you can afford, along with the bike. |
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04-29-2012, 10:03 PM
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#25 | |
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Gnarly Adventurer
Joined: Mar 2012
Location: West of Brisbane, Australia
Oddometer: 154
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Quote:
This ^^^^ +1 I think a lot of people getting into riding forget to factor in the gear costs and then skimp on it.
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Suzuki DL650 V-Strom 2007 Suzuki DR-Z250 2009 |
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04-29-2012, 10:11 PM
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#26 |
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Demigod
Joined: Oct 2008
Location: Frozen Wasteland
Oddometer: 185
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Older bikes can be quite reliable. I suggest the 1980s Honda Shadow 700cc series w/shaft drive. Those bikes have: low maintenance, good power and handling characteristics, great reliability, relatively low seat for shorter riders, great gas mileage due to overdrive, buyer's price won't break the wallet.
I love the fact that you want to be debt free before buying, and I applaud your decision to do the MSF route. Happy riding!!!
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"Illegitimati non carborundum" -Gen. Joseph Stilwell |
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04-29-2012, 11:06 PM
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#27 |
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Studly Adventurer
Joined: Feb 2007
Location: CENTRAL VALLEY, CALIF.
Oddometer: 552
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I agree dept free is the way,but took me 5 years to save 10k for my 2011 bonneville.
I road a 99 sv 650 for that time, paid cash ,and it was just fun. But I really wanted a bonneville!
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67 yrs.old ,51 years rideing :) 2011 bonneville t100. |
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04-30-2012, 06:32 AM
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#28 | |
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n00b
Joined: Apr 2012
Oddometer: 7
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Quote:
![]() Of course, I will have questions on safety gear in time, but i understand that you do not need to invest in gear for the classes, as they provide helmets. On the helmet I was going to go with a full face Snell-certified helmet that fitted my head. I am still researching what is better, the full body one piece gear that not leather, or leather jacket and leg protection. I was leaning towards the one piece as it would give me a peice of mind that my whole body is protected. (Assuming gloves and boots of course.) So I was thinking Full face Helmet Full body suit (May change, as i have not done full research) boots - no laces Gloves What other gear do I need? But I am still researching that. |
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04-30-2012, 07:36 AM
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#29 | |
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Beastly Adventurer
Joined: Mar 2007
Location: U-gene, OR.
Oddometer: 18,070
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Quote:
not-so important IMO
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"Be who you are and say what you feel, because those who mind don't matter, and those who matter don't mind." — Dr. Seuss “Watch out for everything bigger than you, they have the "right of weight" Bib |
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04-30-2012, 02:16 PM
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#30 | |
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Beastly Adventurer
Joined: May 2008
Location: Huntsville, AL
Oddometer: 4,176
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Quote:
Full face helmet. The Snell certification is worthless IMO but then that's one of those controversial subjects. Make sure it fits snuggly, it will loosen up after you wear it for a while. I'd get a bright helmet to be more visible to other motorists. Vented/armored/ waterproof textile jacket, preferably in a bright color to make yourself more visible. Riding pants that are reasonably protective. Kevlar Jeans with Knee armor would be a relatively inexpensive way to start and then you could add something better later and the jeans would still come in handy for those shorter rides. There are also plenty of choices in textile or mesh pants if you choose to go that route. Sturdy motorcycle gloves. Eventually you'll need tow or three pairs, one for hot weather, one for cold and maybe one for in between. Motorcycle Boots Also consider this, if you buy gear and then lose a lot of weight, it may no longer fit properly. A loose fit means that the armor may not stay in place and do it's job if you decide to "crash test" your gear. klaviator screwed with this post 04-30-2012 at 02:54 PM |
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