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Old 04-29-2012, 08:45 PM   #1
Andrew Wright OP
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Location: Milaca, Minnesota, USA
Oddometer: 5
R100GS PD instrument backlights

I've searched these forums with the best keywords I can find, but nothing quite gets me there, so I'm posting this new thread. My apologies if this has been addressed before.

I have a 1990 R100GS Paris/Dakar that I bought new. It has a 1989 manufacture date, according to the VIN, which apparently makes a difference.

This is the model with the large speedo/odo, and the small clock and tach.

I just had the speedometer rebuilt as it stopped working awhile back and start shaking itself apart. $235 later, I have the speedo/odo in, and it works just fine, but the backlighting bulbs for the clock and tach are out. They may have been out for some time, as opposed to burning out during this tear-down...I'm not sure.

In the half-dozen times I've removed and replaced the fairing and crash bar assembly, I've got it down to about a half hour on and a half hour off, but honestly, I'd prefer never to do it again.

So, what I'm asking, is if anyone knows of a direct LED replacement for the instrument backlighting. Interestingly enough, I can't really even find the filament version of the tach and clock backlights in any microfische available online.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.
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Old 04-29-2012, 11:43 PM   #2
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superbright leds, do a websearch and you will come up with a name that ends in .com
go there, with your old bulb in hand, I don't know where else to look if they don't have the one that matches.

Then you could be extra helpful and post the part number up in the sticky part number thread.

I'd do it, but I replaced my bulbs with stock ones, just and I mean days before I found out about the LED source.
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Old 04-29-2012, 11:54 PM   #3
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deal extreme is a Chinese overseas LED/electronics/Li-ion battery supplier that's reliable. I've been dealing with them for 4+ years with zero problems.

they've got a huge assortment of 12v LED replacement bulbs... worth digging

http://s.dealextreme.com/search/12v+...lacement+bulbs
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Old 04-30-2012, 05:14 AM   #4
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http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=750343

All the info you need is in the above thread.

Ignatz did all the research for us...I have some red LED's for my instrument back lights.Think there is even a pic of his bike with the red in the thread. Gives it a 80's BMW car feel with the red aviation style backlight, I love it but not for everybody.

Good luck
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Old 04-30-2012, 06:01 AM   #5
ignatz72
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If you'll read my thread for info and then report back and/or ask questions there, I'll be glad to help.

I'm attempting to build a database of as many Airhead models as possible within that thread.

But your speedo should use a BA9s variant, while the small clock and tach should be BA7s models.
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Old 04-30-2012, 07:01 AM   #6
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figuring out what these things are called is the difficult part - once you know that, googling for the corresponding LEDs isn't hard.

Definitions: BA7 - Bayonet style. These are the cylindrical style with two pins on the base that lock into the female receptacle by pushing in against a spring and twisting to the right. The 7 indicates the size in millimeters. There are BA7, BA9, BA15 - you get the idea.

T1 is the spade style with two wires folded up opposite sides. These are the ones used in the plastic /7 style airhead pods.

I've converted my R65 and R100RS to the T1 style - and not all are interchangeable - the R65 can take the longer ones, and the RS requires the flat ones that don't project past the spade barely at all.

The thing to be careful with on the BA style is total overall diameter. The LEDs sometimes are larger than the original bulbs and may not fit in the receptacle. I haven't sourced these yet so am watching with interest.
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Old 04-30-2012, 07:23 AM   #7
Bill Harris
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+1 on Ignatz's thread.

-10 on buying overseas from China when there are suppliers in the USA.
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Old 04-30-2012, 03:21 PM   #8
Andrew Wright OP
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R100GS PD instrument backlight LED conversion

Quote:
Originally Posted by squish View Post
superbright leds, do a websearch and you will come up with a name that ends in .com
go there, with your old bulb in hand, I don't know where else to look if they don't have the one that matches.

Then you could be extra helpful and post the part number up in the sticky part number thread.

I'd do it, but I replaced my bulbs with stock ones, just and I mean days before I found out about the LED source.
First - thanks for all the helpful replies. A local dealership (Moon Motors, Monticello, Minnesota) had the stock replacement bulb numbers for the overpriced incandescent bulbs. These are the numbers for the 1990 R100GSPD, which had the larger speedo and smaller tach and clock. Note: I haven't done any investigation into the neutral, turn-signal, high-beam and oil indicator lamps, which appear to be push-in bulbs.

Speedo: 07509063576 (9mm bayonet)
Tach/clock: 07119978279 (7mm bayonet)

www.superbrightleds.com had exact replacements, so I ordered them today. I bought the white, green and red, to see which I liked best.

Whoever said BA7s and BA9s was absolutely correct, despite the microfische being incorrect. So, at least for my bike (which could easily be an oddball), the LED part numbers at superbrightleds.com are:

BA7s-x (bulb for tach and clock) - (replace the "x" with w, r, g, b, a for white, red, green, blue or amber)

BA9-s-x-120-12v (bulb for speedo) - (replace the "x" for color as noted above)

www.superbrightleds.com 1-866-590-3533 ask for tech support if your bulbs aren't the same as mine.
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Old 05-04-2012, 08:33 AM   #9
Andrew Wright OP
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LED instrument lights follow-up

Warning, folks...the LED "exact replacement bulbs" aren't all they're cracked up to be. I'm going to make an inquiry about this to SuperBrightLEDs.com to see if there's an alternative, but the ones they sent me aren't quite cutting it.

The problem is that they're too short compared to the standard incandescent bulbs, so they don't stick up high enough to properly illuminate the speedo, tach, clock, etc. I'll post another follow-up after I talk with SuperBrightLEDs.com, or possibly another vendor about taller lights.

- AJ
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Old 05-04-2012, 02:23 PM   #10
ignatz72
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SBLEDs will likely not be terribly helpful on this point - they post plainly that they can't reasonably offer fitment advice for all the applications out there.

They have the dimensions of every bulb listed on the "more info" pages, and it's up to us to carefully measure with a caliper/micrometer to determine fitment.

Then you match the closest you can with what they offer.

With anything other 1156/1157 bulbs, there's going to be a little "fudge" factor and risk in choosing a bulb.

That's why I'm hoping to get reports of what works for what models in my LED pr0n thread...
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ignatz72 screwed with this post 05-06-2012 at 01:51 PM
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Old 05-05-2012, 06:21 PM   #11
bereahorn
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Old 05-08-2012, 06:29 PM   #12
Andrew Wright OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ignatz72 View Post
SBLEDs will likely not be terribly helpful on this point - they post plainly that they can't reasonably offer fitment advice for all the applications out there.

They have the dimensions of every bulb listed on the "more info" pages, and it's up to us to carefully measure with a caliper/micrometer to determine fitment.

Then you match the closest you can with what they offer.

With anything other 1156/1157 bulbs, there's going to be a little "fudge" factor and risk in choosing a bulb.

That's why I'm hoping to get reports of what works for what models in my LED pr0n thread...
You are correct...mostly. There's nothing they can do for the smaller (7mm) bayonet LEDs, as they are only offered in a 1-led light. However, the 9mm bayonet comes in a 4-led light, which is what they suggested I try for the speedometer.

I have to say though, my main issue isn't so much the lights and the retrofits, but the horrid design of the cluster mount for the bike. As noted in other threads, it takes a lot of time and effort to get the fairing off, and even then it's tough to get at the instruments. I've considered making my own modifications to be able to pull off the top face, which holds the whole cluster. If I had better tools or a machinist that worked cheaply enough, I might try it.
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