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Old 05-06-2014, 08:03 AM   #1
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R100RS Paint Job

The fellow who owns this is building a custom cafe, not a restoration. It will be painted a neat gold car color from the early 70s. Something different, always fun.

Just at the beginning stages, this will be mostly real time so it will be up and down time wise. I'm re-training to once again teach MSF classes so it is a crazy Spring in my world.

#1
Tank was cleaned, there was a fair amount of oily shmootz in the tunnel and also gas varnish down in the recessed filler area. I use lacquer thinner and Methyl Ethyl Keytone with Scotchbrite pads to remove this stuff. The main exterior is cleaned with these same solvents. Any wax or oily stuff would be driven into the steel when paint removal attacks are done, we do not want that.

#2
Tank had as much paint as was willing removed with stripper, then cleaned with a vengeance to remove any trace of stripper. Water and then MEK are used for this. This part is such fun, rubber boots, rubber gloves, face mask,,,*#@%*&!

#3
Tank sanded with two different sanders to remove as much paint as possible.

#4
Tank sandblasted, new, fine sand, very carefully. Then some hand sanding down in the fuel filler depression then a serious cleaning of the petcock bungs. I get the threads down to pretty, raw steel and I will apply one coat of epoxy to the the threads. Don’t be alarmed, it dries very thin and will not mess up petcock installation,,,but will stop corrosion. These threads (of course) are masked for all further coatings.







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Old 05-06-2014, 10:04 AM   #2
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And then???
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Old 05-06-2014, 11:01 AM   #3
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And then???
Are we there yet? are we there yet? Sit down and behave yourself. No one rushes me. You are however most welcome to try.

Next i need to get with the paint stripper on the upper fairing panels, they are slimed with an evil repaint. I don't trust painting over repaints, goodness knows how well (or poorly)the job was done. Could have been a 'back yarder' from this board,,ahahahahahahah!





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Old 05-06-2014, 11:19 AM   #4
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. Jealous of your patience sir

hardwaregrrl screwed with this post 05-06-2014 at 12:08 PM
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Old 05-06-2014, 11:40 AM   #5
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Originally Posted by warkshop View Post
Are we there yet? are we there yet? Sit down and behave yourself. No one rushes me. You are however most welcome to try.

Next i need to get with the paint stripper on the upper fairing panels, they are slimed with an evil repaint. I don't trust painting over repaints, goodness knows how well (or poorly)the job was done. Could have been a 'back yarder' from this board,,ahahahahahahah!





you put a prime coat on before epoxying the dents? Was told to do it the other way around. Is there a right or wrong way?
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Old 05-06-2014, 01:33 PM   #6
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you put a prime coat on before epoxying the dents? Was told to do it the other way around. Is there a right or wrong way?
The guy that I have paint my bikes will only do it the OP's way. I'm not sure if there is a "right way" to do it.
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Old 05-06-2014, 01:42 PM   #7
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Filler can be applied to the dents first, i did it that way for years. The negative is that you have a part with raw steel exposed to air for a longer period of time and tiny rust begins. You can't see it.

The epoxy coating immediately after getting the part raw means you have done your best job to stop the rust from happening on the steel under the paint. I've seen the effects of this and it can be horrible. Stuff rusts away, right under the paint.

The other reason i do this in the sequence i do now is that this epoxy has incredible adhesion properties as well as corrosion resisting components in it. Sticks better than shit to a blanket. Now the other side of this is that whatever you apply to it while it is in it's 'open' cure stage chemically bonds to it with amazing tenacity.

A negative for those always in a rush is that you need to let it fully cure (7 days) before sanding so the epoxy is rock hard and the chemical bonding has finished. Rushing paint is so wrong on so many levels i don't know where to start. Sure they do it on TV in shops with millions of dollars of specialized equipment and armies of highly train staff. Ask how much they'd charge to paint your bike!

The bottomline is that one should try and use the most up to date technology,,,this is the 'approved' method,,,,,but not everyone agrees. You will always get folk who will say "i've always done it this way'. Not a good enough reason.

This is not necessarily a black or white issue.

We should always try and do our best,,,that is what i'm doing.
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Old 05-06-2014, 01:57 PM   #8
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Facinating stuff! Very cool thread - thanks for doing this.
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Old 05-06-2014, 08:57 PM   #9
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As usual, prep is 90% of the job. Patiently doing it step by step is the way to get a good end product.

Looking good so far. Can't wait for the color...
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Old 05-06-2014, 09:41 PM   #10
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Alright, thanks for another thread. I really enjoyed watching the /2 come together. Looking forward to the color coats.
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Old 05-07-2014, 05:13 AM   #11
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Very interesting reading, will check back next week for more progress!
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Old 05-07-2014, 05:29 AM   #12
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Nice thread!
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Old 05-07-2014, 07:04 AM   #13
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Thanks for the encouragements, i hope to get some paint stripper work done today on upper fairing lumps and will report. Always warms my heart when i get the nasty steps of this work out of the way and stripper work is nasty! Settle down, not that kind of stripper!
bob wark.
An aside, i believe i'll be getting my old 1997 Suzi DR350 back from a friend soon,,,,i shall be ripping thru the woods again soon,,ho boy!
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Old 05-07-2014, 07:40 AM   #14
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Yeah Bob, nice thread!

That RS owner's gonna be mighty happy....
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Old 05-08-2014, 05:51 AM   #15
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Had nice warm, sunny weather yesterday so it was time for the ugly attack. Paint stripper prefers 70 degrees or better and this is a job i much rather do outside.

This morning i've been picking away at the remaining bits of paint with an Exacto knife and a razor blade, have that done.

Next will be careful sanding with 180 dry and 3M abrasive pads. Then clean again with solvent and finally urethane primer.











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