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Old 10-03-2014, 03:40 PM   #1
Dkizerian OP
Honky Lips
 
Joined: Dec 2013
Location: Tooele, Utah
Oddometer: 172
Reviving an 84 R100RT

Just picked up an 84 R100RT, and although it'll need a bunch of work, it seems to be mostly there, the pistons aren't frozen, the tank looked clean, I'm ready to start tearing into it.

Fairing was already off, but none of the mounts have been removed...

I'm probably going to start with the following:
  • oil change and new filter
  • new fuel lines and filters
  • Spark Plugs
  • check air filter
  • try charging the battery
  • and then attempt to start it
should I put a few drops of oil in each cylinder before attempting to start? or just cycle starter without fuel or spark plugs a few times?

Bike had new valve guides and rings done a couple years ago due to minor smoking. Then he started it, and it smoked like crazy, and he moved on to another project... nothing has been done since.

I'd like to get it started and running to see if smoking is my only issue... before I tear it apart and spend more money.

I'm also guessing that the brakes will need quite a bit of work, although the fronts do grab...

Better pics coming sometime this weekend
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Dkizerian screwed with this post 10-05-2014 at 09:33 PM Reason: Spelling
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Old 10-03-2014, 04:12 PM   #2
Beemeup
1978 R100/7
 
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Joined: Sep 2014
Location: Washington State
Oddometer: 196
Was it sitting on the side stand? They can smoke on startup like that. Loose the tractor saddle and get her pinstriped when it's mechanically sound. RTs look great in white.
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Old 10-04-2014, 08:06 AM   #3
patrkbukly
52 Weeks of warm
 
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Joined: Sep 2002
Location: Miami, FL.
Oddometer: 950
Smokey

My 1980 RT smokes like holy hell if she's been on the sidestand a while. Kind of normal.
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Old 10-04-2014, 08:49 AM   #4
Bill Harris
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Joined: Sep 2008
Location: backwoods Alabama
Oddometer: 7,314
A New To You Checklist from a Famous Guru:

Quote:
I would do the services on your R75/6 in this order:


1) Change ALL oils.

2) Torque cylinder heads (25 foot pounds, loosen each nut 1/2 turn,
then torque, use crisscross pattern)., adjust rocker arm end play (zero
play, no rotational binding), adjust valve clearances (cold engine) to
.006" Intake, .008" Exhaust.

3) Service auto advance unit (don't snap the thread off the end of the
cam, tighten GENTLY!), grease point cam felt with a smear of grease.

4) Set points gap to 0.016" (0.40 mm) using a good feeler gauge, or
better yet a dwell meter, look for 39 degrees on the four cylinder
scale (gives you 78 degrees on a two cylinder).

5) Set ignition timing static setting to S mark on flywheel.

6) Check full advance timing at 3200 RPM, the dot (or hole if the paint
is gone) above the F mark should be steady in the center of the timing
hole, aligned with the machined groove in the side of the hole.

7) Service the air filter, i.e., put a new one. DO NOT blow out air
filter with compressed air, do not leave a K&N filter in at all.

8) Drop carb float bowls and clean the tiny jet in the little well in
the corner of the bowl using a single strand of wire from a wire brush,
held with needle nose pliers. Make sure contact cleaner will spray
through the jet into the bowl.

9) Remove the main jet and jet holder (make a mental note of the depth
of engagement of the jet holder), drop down the needle jet and emulsion
tube, (keep your finger over the hole so they don't fall out and get
lost.) Use some Gumout carb cleaner spray to clean the gunk that has
accumulated above the jet holder. Spray the jets and emulsion tune
clean, then reinstall the emulsion tube, needle jet and jet holder.
Visually align the jets onto the needle carefully. As you screw the jet
holder up in with your FINGERS, if it doesn't seat fully (remember the
mental note?) then back it up about 1/32 of a turn and wiggle it as you
screw it in gently (FINGERS ONLY!) You will feel when the emulsion tube
finds its way up into the carb body hole. If you can;t get it , remove
the air tube from the air cleaner housing and visually see that the
emulsion tube projects up into the venturi about 3-4 mm. You can wiggle
the needle to help align it as you screw it up in with your FINGERS.

10) Check the float level setting by lifting the float gently with your
fingers. When the needle seats, BEFORE the spring loaded part begins to
depress, the seam in the float should be parallel to the float bowl
gasket surface. Reinstall the bowl carefully, making sure the gasket is
fully seated in the groove all the way around.

11) Check that the throttle cable has a tiny amount (1-2mm) free play
when the throttle grip is all the way back. Get the two sides as close
to the same free play as possible.

12) Check that the choke cable fully seats the lever on the post when
the lever is in the horizontal position. At half choke, the lever on
the carb should be halfway between the posts. At FULL choke position of
the hand lever, the choke lever should be all the way up to the top
post.

13) LIGHTLY screw the idle mixture screw IN until you feel the screw
seat. Now back the screw OUT by 3/4 turns (this setting varies for
other models).

14) Turn the idle SPEED screw OUT until it does not contact the
butterfly lever at all. Now screw the screw IN until it JUST touches
the lever, now turn it IN one FULL turn.

These are the baseline settings. Now take the bike for a LONG test
ride, at least five miles, to get it to FULL operating temperature.
Riding around the block or starting and revving on the stand will NOT
work.

At this point you need to synchronize the carburetors. This is
accomplished either by shorting one cylinder at a time (this takes some
practice to get right, usually you need somebody to show you once) or
using a vacuum gauge on the vacuum takeoff ports on the side of the
carb. Set the idle mixture on each carb at the point that gives best
running, usually between 1/2- 1-1/4 turn out. Balance the idle speed
screws, then balance the cable pull off idle. Recheck to be sure that
you still have a tiny bit of free play of the cables. If not, readjust
the cables.

This should get the bike running pretty well. Idle speed should be
at 1000-1100 RPM. DO NOT set the idle for a super low "tickover", as
this will severely reduce oil circulation in the engine and make the
transmission rattle like a bag of rocks.

--
Tom Cutter
As was said, sidestand-parking will make it smoke on startup. If related to the earlier ring job, that can be fixed, nothing major.

Nice seat-- may be a Bill Mayer. Comfy, and an BMW is an old tractor **
.

Cloth tag should be on the underside.

--Bill




** compared to Ducati, Suzuki, Kawasaki and even the current gaggle of BMWs the old Airhead BMWs are closer to tractors...
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Old 10-04-2014, 10:38 AM   #5
supershaft
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Location: San Francisco Bay area
Oddometer: 8,834
If you want an old tractor I suggest buying an old Rokon Trail Blazer. Maybe an old Harley or Indian? BMW's are not old tractors although it is readily apparent that many try their best to turn them into one. Meanwhile, they are really a lot closer to an airplane than a tractor. A super high rpm airplane. Have fun!
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Old 10-04-2014, 06:30 PM   #6
Dkizerian OP
Honky Lips
 
Joined: Dec 2013
Location: Tooele, Utah
Oddometer: 172
Thanks for the ideas of where to start...

This weekend is looking like a wash with all the pre-winter honey-do's... But maybe I'll be able to squeeze in an hour or two tomorrow.

The tractor comments had me confused, since many of my chores today involved my tractor... I hope this new bike is better that it, as 13hp and 12mph, with no suspension isn't very inspiring.

I did pull the dipstick and the oil looked brand new, which goes with the story I've been told, and it isn't seeping out anywhere, so I guess that's a step too...
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Old 10-04-2014, 07:19 PM   #7
Bill Harris
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Location: backwoods Alabama
Oddometer: 7,314
Tractors are fun...

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Old 10-05-2014, 07:48 PM   #8
wvpc1
AKA: Bill
 
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Location: Lower Peninsula of Michlandia
Oddometer: 36
Is the speedo working? How many miles on it?
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Old 10-05-2014, 09:32 PM   #9
Dkizerian OP
Honky Lips
 
Joined: Dec 2013
Location: Tooele, Utah
Oddometer: 172
Quote:
Originally Posted by wvpc1 View Post
Is the speedo working? How many miles on it?
I don't think the odo has worked for a while, it says 18,000 or so, but the bike says higher...
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Old 10-06-2014, 11:10 PM   #10
Dkizerian OP
Honky Lips
 
Joined: Dec 2013
Location: Tooele, Utah
Oddometer: 172
Oil and filter came out tonight, both looked ok. Fuel tank was drained through petcocks, and nothing except old gas came out. Pulled the bottoms off both carbs, and they look like they may have been rebuilt close to when it was taken off the road, but one of the gaskets was shifted during install, so I'll need new gaskets.

Somewhere in the past, one of the previous owners REALLY didn't believe in metric hardware.. Lots of little pieces have been replaced with cheap Home Depot hardware... Rear subframe, only 3 bolts holding it on, and they are three different sizes... Left side peg was held on with a carriage bolt and wing nut. I'll be doing lots of replacing... Luckily, I don't think they did any of the real maintenance, just bolting stuff on...

Odometer says just under 16,000, and at first I thought this was a long ways off... Now I'm thinking this might be close to accurate. Too bad the bike seems to have been abused for those miles.

Just under 16,000 miles? by dkizerian, on Flickr


Untitled by dkizerian, on Flickr


Untitled by dkizerian, on Flickr

From end, you can just make out the broken fender mount on the left fork.

Front shot by dkizerian, on Flickr
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Old 10-06-2014, 11:17 PM   #11
Dkizerian OP
Honky Lips
 
Joined: Dec 2013
Location: Tooele, Utah
Oddometer: 172
Oh, and the seat is a Corbin. Not sure if I'll keep it, but I'll try it.
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Old 10-07-2014, 05:27 AM   #12
Beemeup
1978 R100/7
 
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Location: Washington State
Oddometer: 196
The seat is hideous to me but each to their own. The odometer has probably rolled over.
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Old 10-07-2014, 09:27 AM   #13
Dkizerian OP
Honky Lips
 
Joined: Dec 2013
Location: Tooele, Utah
Oddometer: 172
Rear shocks look like Ikons! and the guy I bought it from said the owner prior to him said he'd put progressive springs in the front, I hadn't given that any thought, since it wasn't confirmed, but given the Ikons at the back it might be true.

Even with everything it'll need, I think the price I paid keeps looking better and better, which is a great feeling when buying a project.
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Old 10-07-2014, 09:29 AM   #14
Dkizerian OP
Honky Lips
 
Joined: Dec 2013
Location: Tooele, Utah
Oddometer: 172
Quote:
Originally Posted by Beemeup View Post
The seat is hideous to me but each to their own. The odometer has probably rolled over.
Seat is hideous, and I'll make another, but I may keep this one for longer rides, IF it's comfortable - I'll just keep my eyes closed when off the bike
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Old 10-10-2014, 09:11 PM   #15
Dkizerian OP
Honky Lips
 
Joined: Dec 2013
Location: Tooele, Utah
Oddometer: 172
Haven't done too much else this week except ordered a bunch of parts.

Figuring out a way to build it the way I want, but make it easy to return to near stock as needed/wanted. Love that the rear subframe is removable.

I'm getting a bunch of time Sunday, plan on draining/refilling trans,drive,rear. Removing tank so I can see what's going on with the fuel and choke cables, and see the wiring. Pulling petcocks off tank, both screens have fallen off into the tank, so I'll be trying to get them out, and see if I can get them mounted better. Pulling plugs. Flush and bleed front brakes. Also may get to look at the rear brake and start to see why it's not doing anything.

Damn.... Such a short list... Oh and I need to adjust valves, and,and,and....

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