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Old 07-25-2013, 09:31 AM   #1561
east high
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Joined: Oct 2009
Location: Portland, Oregon
Oddometer: 936
WTB Bing CV Fuel bowl

I'm looking for a right hand side fuel bowl that doesn't leak. I've already tried peening the tube and JB Weld. PM pls.
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Old 07-25-2013, 05:03 PM   #1562
seaswood
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Location: massachuset
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Corbin

Quote:
Originally Posted by HTLang64 View Post
I have a 78 r100/7 seat that I would trade, send e-mail to g.longpre64@videotron.ca if interested and I will post pics.
Still awaiting for Corbin to make the part
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Old 07-25-2013, 06:27 PM   #1563
walkingbear
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Location: Scottsdale AZ..
Oddometer: 3,310
wtb BMW Airhead 40mm ATE Brake Caliper

Need a set of 40 mm ATE brake caliper.
$$ depends on condition. For a R90S front end.
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Old 07-26-2013, 07:16 AM   #1564
nilsey
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Need 1975 or later transmission

My 1974 R90/6 transmission is giving up the ghost... time to start looking for a new one....

PM me or email me at nilsey (at the ole) hotmail

edit: thanks to a member for tipping me -- what i'm looking for i guess is a pre-1981 long input 5 speed.

nilsey screwed with this post 07-26-2013 at 07:55 AM
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Old 07-27-2013, 08:06 AM   #1565
.fisher
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Joined: Oct 2007
Location: Columbus OH
Oddometer: 118
WTB /2 Rims

Looking for a decent set of rims for a /2 project.

No preference between chromed steel or shouldered aluminum style. Not really after anything NOS or likewise in particular, just a set of clean and serviceable hoops for a rider. 40-hole / 18" / dimpled / etc…

What's out there?
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Old 07-27-2013, 10:42 AM   #1566
Motorrev
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Location: Texas Panhandle
Oddometer: 48
Headlight

I am getting my 72 R75/5 ready to ride. It was tagged last in 1981. I got it 4 years ago and just now have the time and place to get it going. It came with a Windjammer fairing that I removed and in doing so the the headlight came off with the fairing. In other words the factory headlight shell, speedo and tach, and all the wiring is there, but the headlight that was in the fairing looks too big and not like the original fixture. Looks like to me I need a complete headlight with all the parts. Pretty expensive and don't want to order parts until I know for sure what I need. This headlight doesn't have the parking light in it, so know it can't be the original one.

My question is what do I need to do or order to get this going? Does what I've written above make sense and is this a common problem after taking a Windjammer off?

Anyones help would be appreciated as I've had a couple of airheads before now, but never did fix one up until now.

Bob
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Old 07-27-2013, 11:38 AM   #1567
Pokie
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Location: Fort Collins, CO
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Windjammer headlight

I feel your pain, the stock headlight on your bike has to be removed to fit the Windjammer. No part of the Windjammer headlight will fit your stock bucket, period. You need to buy the rim, lens, lens gasket, reflector, 5 holding clips, the bulb socket, the bulb, the park bulb and the light plug itself. If you look inside your bucket, they may have left the plug on.

When we sold and fitted Windjammers, back in the 70s, we always made sure the original headlight was given back to the customer. What they did with it after that is anybody's guess.
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Old 07-27-2013, 01:24 PM   #1568
Motorrev
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Headlight

Pokie

Thanks for your reply, even if the news wasn't what I wanted to hear, it's what I expected. The dealer in Lubbock installed the fairing on the day of purchase. He probably gave the owner the headlight but I am the 3rd owner. 2nd owner bought it in 75. One other question, the two chrome side covers only have clips on one side, so the other side is loose. No apparent clips on that side of each one? Wondered how they were suppose to be secured?

Thanks again Pokie

Bob
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Old 07-27-2013, 04:11 PM   #1569
oldroadie
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Motorrev View Post
Pokie

Thanks for your reply, even if the news wasn't what I wanted to hear, it's what I expected. The dealer in Lubbock installed the fairing on the day of purchase. He probably gave the owner the headlight but I am the 3rd owner. 2nd owner bought it in 75. One other question, the two chrome side covers only have clips on one side, so the other side is loose. No apparent clips on that side of each one? Wondered how they were suppose to be secured?

Thanks again Pokie

Bob
My side covers used a pair of O ring elastics running from side to side between them and the tension pinched them against the frame tabs. They weren't really attached to bike per se but to themselves. I have no idea if that's correct bu t that's the way my /5 was.
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Old 07-27-2013, 05:24 PM   #1570
Motorrev
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Oldrodie,
I have seen the hooks on each of my side pieces and it makes sense that the way yours is, is about all you can do. I will find something stretchy to make that happen. Thanks for the suggestion. Bob
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Old 07-27-2013, 05:40 PM   #1571
disston
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This is the OEM rubber band, part #4. They will only last for a couple of months in most environments because they are common rubber. When they break the right side battery cover is lost. The left cover is held in place by the lift handle.

The permanent fix for this problem that I like is to drill a small hole in the cover and use a small wire tie to attach it to the frame. It can be done so the wire tie is least visible.
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Old 07-27-2013, 05:43 PM   #1572
Motorrev
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mufflers

One other little challenge is mufflers for this 72 R75/5. The mufflers on it were terrible. Looked like cheap mufflers to begin with and were rusted big time. So, I need a pair of decent ones. This bike only has a little over 19K miles on it and doesn't look great by any means, but is a good one. I'm just wanting a nice looking daily rider. If anyone has a good pair of mufflers for sale, let me know. I also wouldn't mind buying a new set, but don't really want to spend $700 right now. Let me know your suggestions.
Bob
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Old 07-27-2013, 05:51 PM   #1573
Motorrev
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Thanks Disston, sounds like a good solid fix that won't break and can be removed when needed......Bob
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Old 07-27-2013, 07:26 PM   #1574
Pokie
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If you don't want to drill holes in the chrome panels (not my favorite), I have seen small-hooked, short length bungie cords that work real good for that. Course, if you want to keep them good, just take them off and leave them at home. I think the bike looks just fine without them but they are kind of expensive to replace when you lose the right one. You always lose the right one because the left one is trapped by the chrome lift loop, where-as the right one is only heald by the hooks on the subframe and the chintzy rubber band (by the way, they came doubled from the factory). When the rubber band breaks, the right chrome panel is left to flap in the wind.

The best (and most expensive) alternative to muffler rot is to buy stainless. The next best thing is to never let them cool down. Our mufflers rot from the inside out, this is caused by not keeping them hot enough to burn out condensation and exhaust acids. If you ride your bike occationally or every day only a few miles, your mufflers will rot REALLY quickly. It only takes having to buy mufflers more than once to be able to afford stainless ones.
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Old 07-27-2013, 08:24 PM   #1575
Motorrev
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Good thoughts on both problems Pokie. Those bungie's should be a good fix. They usually last a long time and are cheap too. My headers don't look very good but are good and solid. I may try cleaning them, but will use them for now regardless. Probably be better off just getting good stainless mufflers and being done with it. I don't want anything noisy, just a good sound that is pretty original sounding. Lots of people like Keihan. Seem like good quality but don't know about the sound. Will let you know how it goes.....Thanks again.
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