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Old 03-08-2014, 10:32 AM   #2326
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Originally Posted by vabuckaroo68 View Post
Where's Mad Max when you need him?!
Could easily have done with the big rig and some weaponry
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Old 03-08-2014, 10:34 AM   #2327
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Heh! Wine's good. Let's stick to inanimate objects for the destruction, though. We take water deliveries that hold 12 litres per cardboard box. On a good strike, I can hole the side of the box in one go. Skin doesn't stand a chance.
Heya Trane ..... think we might just stick to drinking then

Yeah an epic hit can inflict some good pain and scares
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Old 03-08-2014, 10:58 AM   #2328
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Hi you two it’s been a while I’ve been caching up on some of your travels Hell of a good time
I’m thinking in the last set of pics.

The people where having some kind of memorial and the rocks are there to slow people down.
There were water bottles at the foot of some mound of rocks in one photo. for good luck?
I think it was about a Argentina woman long ago that crosses the desert without water only to parish a short distances to water. It is believed to be good luck for leaving water at memorial sites. (If you can confirm this that would be great).
I see your Headed to Argentina If you are in the area I have a friends that run a Hostel. Felipe and Val. Yauguru Meliquina Hostel. They are moto people and know the area very well. That is all Gruve On
Heya Hacky, great to hear from you mate, hope all is well in Alaska.

Yeap travels been awesome to say the least, ups and downs, good and bad.

Unsure of the good luck thing but if we do come across a memorial we will be sure to ensure our good luck.

We sure will be heading down you friend way, if you have a contact email would be fantastic.

Gruve on brother!!!
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Old 03-08-2014, 10:36 PM   #2329
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Wicked Hi Andi and Ellen , Whats happening in NZ

Ran into these good people today , u might know them.



Said they run into you at Hyder , I said I have been there but it was to early in day to get Hyderized

Queenstown bike club had a ride to Milfor Sound today so me and Dom went along







Kev and Sid went to NZGP at Ruapuna , Kev won NZ Clubmans on 748 and Sid was after NZ Post Classics on the OW Yamaha . In practice Sid went into Kitty Litter and had to start 1st race of back , passed most by 1st corner and was in 2nd place following another bike around playing with him . He only wanted to win the NZ Title race and didn't want the other guy to know where he was slow . It was working till he had a massive highside , broke a leg and the pics will tell how the bike came off , everything is bent . Sad day after 12 wins from 12 races at Burt Munroe Challenge .





Wyndham Street Races



To add to the misery they cut his boots and leathers up , $2k for his leathers new .

I head away again in 5 weeks and probably back late Oct. Rugby is on again Crusaders bit sad just won 1 game and 2 losses . Highlanders 1 win over Blues and just lost to the Chiefs . Not a lot else happening here to report . Ride safe and keep the pics and stories coming . Cheers Toddy
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Old 03-08-2014, 11:18 PM   #2330
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Damn. That Yamaha is looking decidedly second-hand. Glad it was no worse than a broken leg.
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Old 03-10-2014, 05:40 AM   #2331
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Originally Posted by hondav2 View Post
Ran into these good people today , u might know them.

Said they run into you at Hyder , I said I have been there but it was to early in day to get Hyderized

Queenstown bike club had a ride to Milfor Sound today so me and Dom went along

Kev and Sid went to NZGP at Ruapuna , Kev won NZ Clubmans on 748 and Sid was after NZ Post Classics on the OW Yamaha . In practice Sid went into Kitty Litter and had to start 1st race of back , passed most by 1st corner and was in 2nd place following another bike around playing with him . He only wanted to win the NZ Title race and didn't want the other guy to know where he was slow . It was working till he had a massive highside , broke a leg and the pics will tell how the bike came off , everything is bent . Sad day after 12 wins from 12 races at Burt Munroe Challenge .

Wyndham Street Races

To add to the misery they cut his boots and leathers up , $2k for his leathers new .

I head away again in 5 weeks and probably back late Oct. Rugby is on again Crusaders bit sad just won 1 game and 2 losses . Highlanders 1 win over Blues and just lost to the Chiefs . Not a lot else happening here to report . Ride safe and keep the pics and stories coming . Cheers Toddy
36 photos ... picture is worth 1000 words there is a full 36000 word writeup!!!

Heya Toddy cheers for the pics mate, Dick and Diane, true blue hardened RTW bikers, man they have been some places.

Yeah we saw them when we were sitting at the border, we had been in contact to meet but didn't have wifi for a week so it was a chance meeting and the stars aligned

Great news with Sid and Kev but bumma bout the big off, Yammy took a beating alright which is a shame, gonna need some heavy buffing to polish that out

Damn cutting up the cut too ... that gets spendie.

Have fun over yonder, more reports landing on your desk today, been shy on wifi thus loading pics.

Cheers dude
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Old 03-10-2014, 05:42 AM   #2332
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Damn. That Yamaha is looking decidedly second-hand. Glad it was no worse than a broken leg.
Yeah for the damage on the bike it is amazing Sid was still standing like he is, easier to fix machine than man tho!
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Old 03-10-2014, 06:56 AM   #2333
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Copacabana

The fun begins...

Kicking around for a few days we had a brief taste of Bolivia, probably not the best start in a touristy town as the locals don't seem to like white faces.

None the less we found a hostal with good parking and a nice coffee place to play gringo in.



Ellen and (Pauls girlfriend) Pau at a cafe



Paul and I chewing the fat



Taking the boat ride we were supposed to have been taken to the northern tip of Isla De Sol so we could walk back the length of the island but halfway there the boat operators so no they were not going ???? WTF we paid for that, no was answer even though it was ticked on our ticket.

The times they stated on the schedule for the day resembled nothing like what actually happens, the boat has two motors and they only ran one so they didn’t us too much fuel but then we took twice as long ???? WTF

Also the engine was on about 1/4 throttle at most and people on the boat were saying WTF is it with these guys.

Titicaca Tours, NOT recommended by any stretch.

Also we were told our ticket was all inclusive ... until we landed on the island and they wanted $5 Bolivianos each to land, then on Isla De La Luna where they want $10 Bolivianos.

While the day was not a write-off our intended hike and so on was completely changed by them for no apparent reason, the others on the boat full spanish speaking (Argies and Chileans) were also wondering why but no explanation was offered.....welcome to Bolivia!!

Some touristy boats in the water



Ellen taking a swim at 4000 meters



While in Copacabana we meet some other overlanders with a weapon of a kickarse truck



I hope Bolivia internal gets better, for me Bolivia has been the country of most interest however at this point .... well the people are certainly not making it with enthusiasm.





So far the Bolivian people don’t want to deal with you (us), can’t be bothered and will lie to your face but they want our money, they are all carrying long faces and always when you look at them they look back like you owe them something.

Their first attempt at anything is to fleece you of money and they have no issue doing it, when questioning their price they get anti ... even when they know it is way over the top.

Hmmm, this is gonna be fun.

Now for the good bit, there is a cafe called km zero, now the guys who own it are moto heads and were very helpful, funny thing is he said Bolivians will only be friendly to you are carnival.....rest of the time nup .... interesting.

Their family owned cafe



Brothers GS which was the initial drawcard for us going in to check it out, same cafe above with good coffee



This was bizarre too, blessing their vehicles at the church with beer, drinking the beer then driving off drunk ... not sure that is my gig


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Old 03-10-2014, 08:30 AM   #2334
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Copacabana To Tacna

After our few day taste of Bolivia we headed back into Peru with Tacna in sights in the hope of finding a new battery for Maya, while our battery is not dead yet we have had warnings with little cranking time meaning its reserve capacity is dying.

To avoid more road blocks and punch ups we took a shortcut across the desert which led us to and unexpected tarseal race track before turning into a real proper shingle back road, no sleep along the way for me today.

The road was interesting, mum nature threw in a couple of twisters dancing on the desert and having a race which was kinda cool.

Part way along there are some stunning coloured mountains with orange that looked straight out of the KTM factory, not sure what minerals the base is but the colours were very cool.



The elevation changes saw us up and down like a yoyo and we crested out at 4800 meters (15750 ft) in a very sandy part which required throttle and caution ..... it was as soft as an undercooked cake and some having a crust on it masking the soggy bit underneath.



The sandpit finally finished only to turn into a rock garden, nice change just lumpy but soon enough we were back onto a rutted sandpit ..... can’t win today... what happened to a good old fashioned shingle road!!



The occasional clump of greenery .... looked out of place



Back to a soggy sandpit bulldust style track



Nearing the end of the sandpit/offroad section I was getting tired, Maya was obviously getting tired too and decided to lay down for a rest, she is a heavy tart with house and contents on board and a handful on this stuff.



A local taking a shine to us with a true blue Peruvian moto wave.



Righting the stricken ship we made it to tarseal and headed for Tacna with the final part of the ride quite relaxing.

Now to get our mission on track we checked out the autoparts and moto area of Tacna, every supplier, tienda and workshop said no go for Yuasa, only Koyo or Toyo which I have not had good luck with so we passed, the rest of the avo spent enjoying Tacna central which might have included ice-creams and coffees ... as ya do when in a big town.

Ellen spotted this thinking it was funny ... in engrish it is anyway



Next stop, Chile, looking forward to that hearing the drivers are totally different and even respectful!!!.

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Old 03-10-2014, 08:48 AM   #2335
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Tacna To Arica To Putre

Two countries, one border ... WOH HOH new territory

35 km to the border, easy run down, arriving at the border was very hot burning sun with the line up way outside the covered area, hats on no worries, locals shading themselves with their immigration paperwork.

Wasn’t long and we were on our way through the process, border inspection this time including baggage scan and visual check of panniers, we had half a block of cheese with us, either throw it or eat it was the instruction, eat it won.

We parked Maya further in the depths of the Chilean side and carried on with our TVIP, the border guards not saying anything more about our cheese so we took what was left, not sure why the drama cos it is the same clump of land.

We met some nice guys starting a tour that day, all of F800’s and GS1200LC, one guy said to his mates wow the real deal pointing at us and our bike (all covered in shit, dust, oil and mud) and on exiting the aduana/customs they saluted as we rode past, that was humbling for us but the reality is they were at the same border on bikes doing it, respect to them too. .... we too started clean and green nearly two years ago.

Finally through with all paperwork in order and waves and salutes Wallace and Grommit ride off into the Chilean afternoon complete with cheese.

Arica, need money, fuel and lunch, supermarket, perfect place to suss out new pricing for food etc.

With getting lunch sorted we sat outside the supermarket in the shadows, we must have looked poor as a girl with Gatorade drink kindly gave us a bottle, welcome to Chile and a warm welcome it was too.

Putre, 3800 meters high, and in the middle of nowhere ...well somewhere.

Our first taste of welcome to Chile accommodation prices .... bit of a shock, luckily we had rekitted with camping gear in Peru so our renewed approach to saving our budget and enjoying our outdoor experience starts right here and now, the local football field providing home for the night, epic sky TV and a frost to match with white fluff on Maya in the morning.

Our site came complete with log for sitting on ... don't need no poofy chairs , now we are distanctly colour coordinated with Maya and teh tent, blame Doite it is there colour

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Old 03-10-2014, 09:12 AM   #2336
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Putre To Iquique

This was our treat to lure us in....huge volcanic pots laced in snow





National parks creating interest we headed towards the Bolivian border turning off right at the lineup out into no mans land and it did not let us down, a huge expanse of nothing and no one.



With our volcano luck continuing one was turning it on for us having a small spit



Even with tanking up with 5 liters for a buffer Maya uses more fuel at 4500 meters so I was being quiet on the throttle cruising along the gravel road and negotiating sandpits which had fall off written all over them.

This was the norm for 100s km



The Salar which turned into our turning point



Getting past the Salar we decided to hook out and head coastal as it was looking like our gas would not see us through to the far end and out, being stuck at 4500 meters in no mans land with no petrol didn’t seem an attractive option.

Mrs.Garmin came in handy at this point with indicative mileage until we start pushing and our road taking us through a monster rock garden about 40 km long including the Murphy sandpits hiding the Murphy rocks of which a few tried to steal our front wheel ... entertaining.



The track started resembling a road again rather than a rocky sandpit



Soon enough we hit tarseal again which was nice and unexpected, all roads lead to the 5 which is the main drag, seeing the mileage we had already done we cruised down the main drag only to find the was no gas stations for about 250 km ... oh no.

As darkness decided to turn up we decided to pull off the main drag and went desert a few hundred meters to wild camp again.

Our camp site (in the morning sun)



Now sometimes you find we bonuses unexpectedly, this morning was one,we had talked about a small vestibule footprint using polythene ..... c h e c k i t out b r o we cut a nice wee triangle out ... fits perfectly



Iquique, fuel, mission for the day .... not push Maya , nearest gas station going to be a squeeze to get there, fast (slow) forward to gas station with 460 km on the tank the orange light just on we had 70 km to go, filling up the rear tank and still running on the main we decide to see just how far we could go if needed, this netted a total of 560 km with a sniff to spare meaning Maya was running at 5.3 liters per 100 km including 250 km on gravel etc.

Mission accomplished by the skin of our teeth, even the 950 can come through by buttoning off if needed ... thankfully.
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Old 03-10-2014, 09:21 AM   #2337
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Iquique To San Pedro De Atacama

Coastal, looked interesting, road 1 ... not much down there other than dozens of beaches full of small settlements.

We managed to find a cool little place and had the cove to ourselves, again sky TV this time no frost ... things were looking up.



Sky TV closing in providing a cool backdrop for the thousands of birds and the dodgy Mayan hiding in the shadows



Heading down to San Pedro was a long hot and not very inspiring straight tar ride but the rewards were nice arriving in San Pedro, we managed to bag a room for reasonable cost so after 3 nights bush camping it was nice to have a sit on toilet, hot shower and a pillow.



The last leg into San Pedro with cool formations

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Old 03-10-2014, 09:43 AM   #2338
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San Pedro De Atacama To Salta

Between San Pedro and the border we found ourselves in some OMG moments being out in the middle of stunning starkness, one just has to stop and take it in.





A jump for joy at the stunning setting we had be handed to enjoy.... just bloody awesome



Live action show of or surroundings



In Sana Pedro there was a number of adventure motorcycle travellers mainly on BMW F800s some we did not catch up with until the following day.

Stopping at the famous Chilean sign TMK sticker proudly joined the many others who had passed this point, at this time we were inundated with Brazilian riders on KTMs and BMWs, the single biggest gathering of other adventure riders on our trip so far in 23 months.







Hitting the border with the boys we were behind two bus loads of gringos so it was like a cattleyard in the customs.

Wasn’t long and we were formally in Argentina heading down toward greenery, destination Purmamarca.

This greeted us along the way, a new car delivery truck that had gone AWOL



Not sure if the driver lived or died, check out the cab



Brazilian boyz passing us, we are going to catch up with them in Brazil, great guys!!!



Salar Grande, no Bolivian in size but spectacularly bright white



Not even half an hour down the road from the previous truck crash .... this



Camping in a camping ground turned out to be a mistake with Argentinians cranking up the sounds from about midnight, they don’t consider anyone else at all on and the neighbouring dogs chiming in pretty much all night so sleep was sparse.

The saving grace, colours around this town here are nothing short of amazing and the name is 7 colours which is easy to see why.









Now in stark contrast within less than a day we rode down RN9 which is 4 meters wide and narrower at points, more like golf cart race track nestled in rain forest.



With Salta in our sights we headed down to get some paperwork sorted by way of insurance etc, we checked out prices for front tire .... fark .... $250 USD for the same thing that is $50 USD in Peru.... I think ours will last a little longer.
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Old 03-10-2014, 03:00 PM   #2339
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The colours of the landscape way up in elevation there look a lot like Mars. Just colour the sky a brownish coral and away you go. Damn.
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Old 03-10-2014, 04:12 PM   #2340
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Hi Andi and Ellen .
You sure are booting it down to Argentina ,like you took a dislike of the Bolivian people,I don'd blame you the closer we get to Bolivia the people are getting more unfriendly, thank you for the extensive report on the Titikaka lake on the Bolivian side,I visited only two Islands in Puno and had enough of this touristic ripoff Trap ,I don'd think I would come for an extra trip to visit Titikaka Lake.
I will get into Bolivia tomorrow towards la Paz and the Salar then towards Salta in Argentina, not interested in the Atacama Desert ,and Chilean Prices ,maybe some Day.keep up the good reports and pictures .
Safe riding.
Greetings from Norbert and Greti
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