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Old 07-09-2014, 01:27 PM   #2716
Two Moto Kiwis OP
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Originally Posted by Martynho View Post
Hey Amigos,

I have just got back from the UK and been offline for the last few weeks. I was absolutely mortified to read the news of the assault on Ellen, I really hope she makes a speedy recovery from her injuries both physical and mental.

I can see why you are so frustrated and pissed off with Bolivia, its a shame because it was one of my favourite rides for the scenery. I have to admit the Bolivianos are hard work in many ways but you certainly had a bad run of it.

Keep yer pecker up, and enjoy the rest of the ride. Nil illegitimum carborundum!

All the best to you both
Martyn
Heya Martyn

Thanks for your kinds words man, appreciate it, recovery is on the go.

Pecker is up (no more details than that ), when to do the death rod today but heavy rain and fog stopped it as we could only see 10 meters.

Nutha crack at it next coupla days then out
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Old 07-09-2014, 01:29 PM   #2717
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Originally Posted by dwj - Donnie View Post
Hi!

Sorry about your problems! Get well soon!

Donnie
Heya Donnie

Yeah we all have a shit sandwich at some stage, your with the big off etc, all tries us at the time.

Thanks for your kind words, rubber side down mate.

Cheers Andi
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Old 07-09-2014, 01:33 PM   #2718
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Originally Posted by cold comfort View Post
Hi guys. Been away for a few days with no net. Absolutely horrified, but again not surprised. (We all know there are gangs who live totally off robbery and murder.) SO relieved you survived it largely intact. As above, bystanders the world over are more concerned with self preservation and NZ is not without a record of serious hurt to tourists. I admire your grit in sticking with the program -I would be inclined to get out of Dodge as Padmei inferred so eloquently. Hope you are not too sore and beat up Ellen. Stay safe. We want you back in one piece.
Heya Mark

Thanks for you brotherly and kind word mate. last thing we want to see is death road then Padmei gets his way along with everyone else and us too, tried to do death rod today but to wet and no vis so no point.

We will be back in one piece mate no worries there.

Cheers Andi
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Old 07-09-2014, 01:38 PM   #2719
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Originally Posted by hondav2 View Post
We have just got back to civilisation and wifi and i read what happened . F##k . Yes dont let 2 arsoles ruin your trip. You will be glad to see the end of Bolivia . If your going to go walking alone again Ellen get your self a good walking pole , but its better to give them something than end up seriously hurt . Take Care you guys .
Heya Toddy, no they won't get to us, they can get fucked and not destroy our travel.

Good advice, 99% of the time we walk together but not this day.

Take care to Toddy, see you when we get home next year

Cheers A
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Old 07-09-2014, 01:39 PM   #2720
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Hi all

In Pa Paz now with wifi, uploading photos as we speak, new updates coming tomorrow.

Love to all

Cheer Andi & Ellen
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Old 07-10-2014, 09:17 AM   #2721
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Hey, orange guys lost Jaimoto!... he is a kind of orange-beemer now!!!

I think in a few weeks he will be ridding a GS with Schuberth helmet

will Dress in light-grey suits! jajajajajaja



(but he is very happy! and i´m happy too )

Good to know about Ellen, sending her all my energy to get body, head and spirit heal
Keep enjoying the road!!!

Best Regards friends!
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Old 07-10-2014, 12:39 PM   #2722
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Originally Posted by [URL="http://advrider.com/forums/member.php?u=84378"
CHECOSO[/URL];24579391]Hey, orange guys lost Jaimoto!... he is a kind of orange-beemer now!!!

I think in a few weeks he will be ridding a GS with Schuberth helmet

will Dress in light-grey suits! jajajajajaja



(but he is very happy! and i´m happy too )

Good to know about Ellen, sending her all my energy to get body, head and spirit heal
Keep enjoying the road!!!

Best Regards friends!
Yeah some bloody buddy he turned out to be ... shall we start calling him Ewan

Yeah on the e's he was pretty happy and I would be too surrounded in nice motos ....not too bad eh. So has he got a new F8 or 12LC?

Come on Jaimewan speak up bro

Thanks for yoru support with Ellen too mate, earned a big hug (from Ellen) when we get back to Santiago, you gotta new XT 12 yet??? pics???

Ciao amigo, Andi
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Old 07-10-2014, 12:58 PM   #2723
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Disorientated ..... Cochabamba

Heya all, ok just went back 6 pages to find out where we left off, with the blockades ,strikes, Ellens robbery etc we sorta lost the plot back there then had no wifi for 8 days.

Cochabamba

We enjoyed our stay for a couple of nights at the hostel then found a couchsurf with a Costarican man with a Colombian wife that were moto travellers.

We moved to their apartment and talked about travel and motos and of course the world cup was on so Ellen and I made a stop at the super market to get some table goodies to munch on while watching the games.

We had a rattly cam tensioner and I wanted to deal with that as Jaime has an electric drill, I just needed a drill and tap to complete the equation from the tool we carry.

The cam tensioners are oil pressure fed, not sure which one was the issue as there are two so I bought a drill and taps and did the mod which basically makes the tensioner pre tensioned with the oil finishing the last bit off....that was successful.

I went upstairs to get some bits and pieces and that is when I found Ellen had just got back from her walk and had been robbed and beaten ...gut wrenching.

No need to go back over that now but it was a shock and a half and after having had all the other crap previously I was ready to kill someone. Too much shit from one country and it was not getting any better.

While in Cochabamba I tried to buy a small oil cooler as well to help Maya keep her cool in the heat, I could not find one for love nor money and every shop was totally confused despite having the translation and pictures ... they acted as they had never seen one before despite nearly every small moto having one .....WTF...no....can’t be fucked.

So, “come back tomorrow”, “my friend has one in his warehouse”, “no problem ring me back at 4 pm and I will have one for you” .....these we some of the good ol lies again so we gave up trying to get one there.

Staying with Jaime and Maria was good, nice people, we were going to stay 2 - 3 nights with them but after Ellens incident they said stay another night and get sorted which was very kind of them.

They took us for a drive in their suzuki jeep so we bought lunch



We also did our bike papers which was a needless nightmare, every other country issues 90 days, no Bolivia, 30 at a time and you have to go back and back to get it sorted, we did however meet a nice guy who had lived in the USA, talked english and had an XR650 with bike tank, Baya headlight setup etc which he was rightfully proud of.



Sorry we do not have any more photos as they are all in the camera that wrongfully has a new owner somewhere
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Old 07-10-2014, 01:11 PM   #2724
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Cochabamba To Independencia

After surviving Cochabamba .....just, we defiantly decided to hit the 25 back road to Coroico which is at the base of the famous “Death Road”

Jaime joined us for part of the way on his XR650L which is a very nice machine, leaving mid morning we ventured out into yes ... more protests and blockades, todays strikes are the public transport and taxis blocking as much as they possibly could.



The policemens wives were also protesting about something as well so pretty much Bolivia came to a standstill yet again.

The blockades meant some pretty unusual riding tactics to negotiate the vans and buses strewn all over the intersections, at one point we had a policeman on a KLR650 in front of us, he took a wrong side of a bus and ended up behind us, we mounted the kerb, up onto the footpath, around some fruit stalls, past a bus shelter and along some shop fronts only to have Mr.Plod think that our route was much better than his and he followed us.



Buses parked diagonally across the road to stop everyone



Minivans parked all over intersections ... some too tight for us to fit through meaning alternative routes like center islands and footpaths.



I wondered if he was gonna get grumpy with us so I was armed and dangerous and was ready to tell him to take a flying leap but he didn’t and just turned off his way.

Finally through the blockades, some 20 - 30 of them we came to our turnoff, we wanted to gas up but the YPFB (Petrol station) would not serve us, they said they didn’t have any petrol ..... sure.

Anyway, having the super tanker we still had enough to get to our lunch stop which also we could fuel up at Morochata but first we were sent to 4400 meters above stress level to stunning mountain top scenery, with the public transport and taxis on strike we had the road pretty much to ourselves which was so nice, thanks guys ... go on more strikes please.

Bit of a rough section here



The range we rode over, sorry for the lesser pics as they are all taken with the little camera which gets lost in the big long scenes.



Zig zag





In Morochata we found two more girls that smiled, actually the whole town was friendly which was so unBolivia, although shy the two girls that were serving in the restaurant were genuinely interested in our moto, gringo faces and where we were from so we had a nice chat with them and yes I had my picture taken so that was three smiling people we found in Bolivia thus far, with the exponential growth in smiles this place has possibilities.



See in the background in the photo above the other faces looking around the corner at the aliens ... it was funny.

Two happy kiwis after a nice lunch and friendly people



From Morochata the road opened it doors to an array of exciting scenery with spectacular backdrops, to be fair if there is one road worth doing in Bolivia it would be this one, I hope the death road is much more dangerous cos this one was a serious contender, in places it dropped 400 - 500 meters straight down with no stops except at the bottom which would not have hurt because you would be dead.





This made me keep my mind on the job, all the heartache and crap in Cochabamba pushed to one side and fresh mind-food put in via the scenic eye candy.

Destination Independencia, time to put our feet up for the night and lay the heads down.
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Old 07-10-2014, 02:13 PM   #2725
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Independencia To Pucara

As you know Bolivians are the best at blockades and strikes, as it would turn out today was one of those days, as we went to leave town we found our first one, logs across the road and stones etc, they were not going to let us past, Ellen hoped off and went to shift one log and they all got upset so as quick as a flash I rode to the right and over the log, a big fat woman was angry and tried to stop me but her arse was too big for her to be agile and I made it over no problem, Ellen climbed on and we rode of amidst yelling at screaming at us .... not our doings....

Just up the road they had cut a trench across the road and left a part wide enough for people to walk across so we took Maya across no prob, more trees down, more branches down and small road blockades ... just when I thought we were home free we came a cross a truck, a digger and some big rocks and a bunch of angry men pushing BIGGER rocks onto the road.

They tried to stop us, there was just enough space to fit through the last hole before they closed it with a big rock which would have left us in no mans land trapped, again thinking quick I shot for the gap and one of the fuckwits threw a rock about 300 mm round into the gap, as he through it it piled in just behind the front wheel, I had enough pace on that the rock rolled smashing into the bashplate and the back wheel going over it .. kinda rodeo style really but I got over, again amidst yelling and stone throwing Ellen got on, I cracked it opened and we took off giving them the ADV salute on exit.

Now I don’t mind if they wonna protest but to take it out on us ... no I don’t think so, not our doing, we made it out thinking it was going to be a long arse day of blockades and trouble, turns out that was the key entry point and we had made it through and had the rest of the road to ourselves.





All was well until we found a wee creek .... full of brown water ... and flowing...bridge pylons only ... no bridge, gezz the day was getting very exciting now.



We picked our way down to the river, picked our way onto the river then picked our way up stream, this all happens at the confluence of two rivers, after where they had joined into one there was no way we could cross so we had to try other tactics.



Now being a keen 4 wheeler for many years I used my river reading and crossing skills to try and get us across as dry as possible, the only other alternative was to go back 70 km into the blockades and bullshit ... no bloody way.



We rode upstream probably 1 km past the confluence so we only had to deal with one river at a time and pick the most braided spot, we made a few small crossings where the river had braided out, finally after 5 - 6 small crossings the main course was in front but river crossing tactics had paid its way, the main stream was an easy crossing only 500 - 600 mm deep ....the last bit had some bigger lumps called Murphy rocks hidden underneath the surface so Ellen came out to help with that section, thankfully only 10 meters or so.





Happy to report we made the main stream easy enough although boots were full to the brim, a small detour around the sinking sand stuff we made the second smaller creek crossings with ease, the last one deeper than we thought but easy doable.



There was a casualty of the crossing tho, our faithful glue bottle full of chain oil drowned never to be seen again, that trusty small bottle travelled 90450 km sitting in the bashplate .....R.I.P glue bottle and thank you for your service over the last two years.

River done and dusted we climbed up to Pucara for lunch and boot emptying much to the amusement of the locals, now some confusion was had with the GPS saying go left and a local guy saying go right, we decided to take the locals advice which sent us on a 65 km one road end goose chase...wanker, so 130 km later we return to the same village, quick retank of fuel and set off before dark encroached, we rode to just prior 6.00 pm to make lost time, Ellen spotted a soccer field so we found the track down to that and set camp for the night.



The video of part of the crossing.



The rest of the road looked similar to this



Mushroom soup if you wonna know and yet is was nice.

Bed early, I was spent as the road was very greasy and we had a HUGE moment with a near highside at about 50 km/hr, the BIGGER worry was the side of the road and more to the point what wasn’t on the side of the road ....it was a long way down.
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Old 07-10-2014, 02:36 PM   #2726
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Pucara To Chulumani ... Getting A Knee Down!!

An early start being in the tent, long day ahead so an early start a welcome.





Muesli and Coffee to kick start the session, packed camped up and set off.

Some traffic was moving, mainly big trucks so we had to be mindful on the tight single lane road.



All was going well until we came across a small creek crossing only 200 - 300 mm deep which we crossed with ease and out the other side where it was wet and greasy ... and the at was it.

1st, .....2nd, ....3rd then bang down we went, it was clay with a wet top and as greasy as a politician, lucky we were only doing 35 - 40 km/hr, there was however one ill placed rock that tested the integrity of the Jesse case and rack, well despite the impact the case hardly had a scar, the mounting system designed to give in an impact worked well.

It spun us nearly 180 degrees and pointed us back to where we had come from ... the dreaded creek as it would turn out



Time to unload some gear as I had injured my shoulder in the crash



Things took a bit of a beating for sure



Oooops



The rack did get a tweaking but as luck would have it we crashed right beside a bunch of mum natures finest tools, a bunch of big sticks and a some rocks, we used these to get things at least remounted so we could carry on, 10 minutes work and we were ready to race.



As we were getting sorted to go a local man rode past on a Jawa twin stinky (they are everywhere here) entered the creek then ring ding splash and he when down and took an epic swing in the freezing water, as quick as a flash he was up and picking up the bike, we ran over to help but he waved us as ok, poor bugger would have frozen his nuts off and his moto was not happy either probably have water in at least one pot.

So within ten minutes the creek and exits had claimed two motos, at least we made it through the creek before we biffed it.

Mrs.Garmin wasn’t happy with where we were either and told us some lies, this time we did take local advice (from several to make sure they all told the same story) finally arriving at Chulumani late afternoon.

We called it quits there for the day as I have a weak left shoulder from smashing the front out of it in a snowboarding accident when I was a young punk and todays crash give it quite the tweak which it did not need.

Rest day, shoulder said no way so we decided to stay and relax a day, we had a swimming pool (bloody freezing cold water ,...even for Ellen!!) and access to a bar b que, off to town for some good steak and an epic lunch was brewed up over the coals.



Coroico tomorrow .....the base of the death road.
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Old 07-10-2014, 02:58 PM   #2727
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You two are having quite an adventure in Bolivia Praying the "Death Road" is kind to you!
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Old 07-10-2014, 04:07 PM   #2728
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Definitely adventure. And, dang, Maya sounds gorgeous. What a beast.
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Old 07-10-2014, 06:05 PM   #2729
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You two are having quite an adventure in Bolivia Praying the "Death Road" is kind to you!
Heya Jeff

Bolivia has topped the charts with everything thrown in so never a dull moment for sure.

Death road in the morning, weather looking +/- ok so hopefully get some good shots. .... will try not to die
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Old 07-10-2014, 06:12 PM   #2730
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Definitely adventure. And, dang, Maya sounds gorgeous. What a beast.
Heya Trane

Enjoyed the 25 ride even with the binning and some damage cos it was scenic and nice.

And thankyou and yes Maya does play a nice tune, specially when the tap is opened
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