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Old 06-27-2012, 10:06 PM   #106
Two Moto Kiwis OP
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D2D 2012 20th Year

Dawson is a old gold mine town, it has lots of old buildings, looks like Granity on the West Coast of New Zealand. The pub in town sell “sour toe” cocktail. A toe from old miner’s dead body has removed and put in a cocktail, you can drink it.



How gross!

We sat at Midnight Sun Hotel for a drink, the waitress said we can buy a bottle of wine with off sale price, but still drink in the pub. We believed her, it turned out the off sale price was $11 and we paid $27, what a ripe off for naive Kiwis.

The rest of the evening was enjoying street shenanigans on motorcycles, skill event with slow races, slalom, blindfold ride and eat the sausage.





Ellen wasn't used to something so small so she failed

Street games ... blindfolded







Hobbit and Chiwi in the main street









Here is a bunch of Dawson City town photos, to see more go to our photobucket album so we don't bore you to tears .. .this town is a good energy town and very very cool, even tho we are only borrowing energy and we return it to earth when we die there is plenty of good karma and a nice feeling with the place, dirt roads and all













We also met up with some other RTW bikers www.2tmoto.com

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Old 06-27-2012, 11:10 PM   #107
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Dawson To Eagle Plains On The Dempster/Dumpster/Duster Highway

On conclusion of D2D we packed down, tanked up and headed off to Eagle Plains on the way to Inuvik, we dropped off our new front tyres to “The Dick” and left them in his workshop.

The Dempster/Dumpster/Duster ... well what can I say .....

It started off as any normal (to us) trip does, tarseal ... then shingle, 407 km of it, the road varied from beautiful Calcium Chlorided nicely bound together road i.e. 50 - 69 mph stuff down to 3rd world pakistan potholes.

N o i c e wee lunch spot



We arrived safe and sound after a pretty uneventful trip with our only misdemeanor being Ellens little stop over a grader windrow of shingle and an exciting deluge of heavy rain and lightening beyond belief the rain was bouncing back upwards about 1 metre and carrying with it mud and clay which made a brown mist of sludge hovering in the air and the road flowing like a river.



The campground at Eagle Plains was great, hot shower (WOH HOH), flushing toilets, Wifi (sorta) and a few other ADVers to chat to and some cyclists from Switzerland (the next level of nuttership from adventure motorcycling)

The mozzies weren’t too bad as we had padlocked our bikes down so they couldn’t take them away, the following morning dawned a nice day so we packed up house and contents and headed on our merry way after we had left our keys in the tent!!!!

It was only 5 minutes down the road and I had to stop and we tipped out the tent on the road to make sure we still had the said keys, once settled in my mind, spare keys back in the top box and original keys back in the ignition we were on our way.

This is the bridge we stopped at ... quite neat and a beautiful place to sort our shit out!!.



The road deteriorated badly and quickly, we had managed to ride the Dempster on what was to turn out to be one of the biggest road works we have ever encountered, we are talking probably 250km long of riding on hard base with ball bearings with soft dust in between .. then it rained ... for F@$&s sake it turned into puffy mud and the fun factor diminished somewhat.









We too were Chiwi and Hobbit comets with quite the tail following us .... it was just ten fold bigger with the trucks.

We later found out there were three bike wrecks on the road that day with two going back on trucks, one was straightened out enough to ride back. (Robins who I would later help)

The Arctic Circle on the Dempster





Northern territories border



There are two Ferry crossings with ver boggy entry ramps, this created entertainment for GS rider who came to greif and tore off the left pannier



U dead? ya mun!!





Photo from the bridge of the Ferry



We arrived at Rengling river at about 6.30 pm and decided to have some food as Ellen was spent and I was tired too, we then decided to set up camp and call it a day, we were in bed by about 8.30pm, we were both woken by big winds that was shuffling the tent around, we had placed some pretty big rocks on the guy ropes so we hoped up and nailed them down with pegs, the ground was like concrete hence the rocks idea.

The following morning was hot, we packed up amidst a sea of mozzies and big black flies that actually bite a chunk out of you .... hmmmm.... just to elongate our stay Ellen binned her bike (again) as we were leaving camp.

Hitting the road and assuming the terror of bad road it improved literally within a mile of camp to our surprise, outstanding reprieve from the roadworks so a reasonable pace was set, the light was weird, very gamma looking and hard to pick the soft spots, unusual light for us that do not live within the Arctic Circle.

We arrived in Inuvik and it was HOT, about 35 degrees C, we stopped at a cafe and had a cold coffee, the girls in there let us leave our gear so we could walk around town in our civy gear.





The local supermarket store was a winner with food and drink as well as air cond, so a hot pizza and cold tea we were fed and watered. We bought some energy drinks for our long haul back to Eagle Plains as we could not camp wild for reasons of being in Grizzly Bear country and womans monthly things on the go so to avoid being on the Grizzly lunch menu it was best to head to the safety of partial civilization.

The is the Deli/bike section



Honourary Kiwis





Inuvik back to Eagle Plains

Well on the way back we came upon an epic thunderstorm so we decided to sit it out as they normally race through pretty quickly however this one had a brother and sister and before we knew the whole family surrounded us.





It was all around us and that is where we were heading



The wind was so strong it blew Hobbit of his side stand ... Ellen then lost her footing with the wind and she went down too...this was caught on camera.



We finally made it back to Eagle Plains campground at 11.00pm and set up camp ... hot shower and relax down however the energy drink was still doing its jobs so we got our moneys worth.

Next morning was cool and mostly clear however the wild fires had created quite a brown haze which did cut down the scenery somewhat and there were burnt patches for miles along the road where the fire had started after we had been through on the way in.

The trip for us was uneventful with time to take pics of the sulphur rivers with rust coloured water so out came Two Photo Kiwis and some artistic sessions.

To prove the danger we put ourselves through to get goo pics for you guys see the mozzies trying to bite the lense off the camera





The river



The road



Hobbit turn 5000 miles old on the way out



Andis Playstation ... forget the poxy Xbox!!!



The road had changed dramatically even over the three days and for the better so our exit pace was far much smoother and quicker.

On returning to Dawson we went back to Dicks to pick up our front tyres we had left, Dick offered us space to put down our beds as we wanted to clean air filters, re-inflate tyres, clean the Calcium Chloride off the bikes and change the front sprockets out.



We ended up staying the first night with the vision of finishing the bikes in the am then off to Whitehorse, we then heard that Robin who had binned her 1200 GS on the Dempster (note rolled the bike completely over buckling to two side cases, engine bars and wind screen mounts) was coming to Dicks workshop to straighten it out as good as they can, Ross turned up and it was game on.

Being there I offered to help so I spent 3 hrs with them and knocked the two cases into shape to make them watertight again, repaired the latches, straightened the screen and engine protection bars, it is not perfect but it is 100% better than when it came in, they too are doing the Dalton so they too still have some traveling to do.

Best to you guys and we hope you trip up there goes smoother.

Upon finishing her bike I set too and finished ours, we sat down to a tea of Ellens home made Sushi and Dicks sashimi Tuna, outstanding it was too.

Tomorrow morning Thursday 28th June we set off South.... next report will be in a few days again, stay safe, enjoy your riding if you are getting out and luv from Two Moto Kiwis.
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Old 06-28-2012, 01:39 AM   #108
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Good 1 Andi and Ellen

When I was planning to ride to Inuvik a guy on SL650 said how many days will u do it in , I said I dont plan to much , just let it happen , he said " U wont get up there in 1 day , It took me 2 days to get from Eagle Plains to Dawson he said . I left Dawson a 7am and arrived 10pm same day . Easy when he weather is on your side aye , Have a look at my report in the asia section , Life is pretty stress free here http://advrider.com/forums/showthrea...1#post19009783 Keep the pics and stories coming BTW hows the new camera going ??? Cheers Toddy
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Old 06-28-2012, 10:09 PM   #109
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totally LivingTheDream you two!

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Old 06-29-2012, 03:58 PM   #110
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hi felas!!! nice RR, keep goin and enjoy the trip, cheers from zacatecas mexico..............
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Old 07-04-2012, 05:54 PM   #111
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Dawson To Whitehorse

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Originally Posted by ficoszac View Post
hi felas!!! nice RR, keep goin and enjoy the trip, cheers from zacatecas mexico..............
Heya ficoszac, glad you like our ride reports, we are having fun doing them .. especially the practical side

Now this is the latest in the shenanigans

Before parting Dawson we had to stop and the building where the council had built the ground on an angle, there was no one on the street when we started and our interest created a whole lot more interest next thing there were camera everywhere .. funny things happen.



We set off from King Dicks on Thursday 28th June from Dawson, the road south from there was more suitable of a 1 Litre roadie than the DRs.

First stop was Dome hill as Ellen had not been there so, we were here



There was not a lot to see or do so we hunkered down and got to twin lakes for the night so a 424 km day.

We did have some entertainment with a little rodent running out across the road the turning backing under my bike only to get a hiding now by the Heidenau, he was visiting his flat mate I think.

We also came upon a sad looking 12 hundy GS that had gone off into the veges after failing to stay straight in some road works, hope the rider was ok as no one was there.





Arriving at Twin Lakes to bed down we were greeted by some nice people (John & Arlene) who said there are two sites left and they had paid for one of them to hold it for their mates the next day, they said we could use it which was cool so we just squared them up for that.

After tea we went over to their motorhome armed with maps and questions, they had a fire going and duly offered us a wine .... what was a coupla bikers do but accept.

After discussions and chats they offered us a Seizer?? or Bloody Marry, well over the course of the night we had another then another all of varying degrees of stiffness and heat....awesome dudes you guys made our night.

So after being impromptually feed and watered with the best we finally packed it in and went to bed about 1.30am ... still daylight tho.

In the morning Arlene brought Coffee over after had just made our own one, so thanks were given anyway, these guys truly are top people and represent Canada to the highest level.

Ellen also decided that the lake was inviting and went in for skinny dip to an island ... we think she may be the first nudy Asian bum to do it!! (sorry X rated so no photos)

After setting off we arrived at Wethorse, the temperature had dropped like a stone and mum nature shouted us a very good invigorating shower .... upon arrival at Wethorse we headed to McDees for some hot tucker and Wifi, this was great as a couch surfer host had replied and we were good to go for dry, warm, shower, no mozzies and nice people lodgings.

So we stayed with Claire and JD and there two boys Jasper and James, later in the evening two other couch surfers Otis and Daniel arrived as well so we had quite the party with a bunch of people we didn’t know, Otis was in Cromwell for three months so knows roughly were we live, great guys great hosts and great night, thanks guys you made our stay on Whitehorse pretty groovy.

From left is Otis, JD, Daniel, Claire, me and Ellen



Ellen making Tacos ... Y U M



The result



Also in Whitehorse, we parked outside Canadian Tires, a guy stopped and talked to us, he has a KLR 650 (he seemed nice tho ). We are so familiar with this now, where we are from, where we are going, where have we been, the bikes set up etc... in the end, this guy said: “Are you guys couch surfing? I live north of Whitehorse, you could stay with me ...” to late now, we already in town. We thanked him. In the evening, when we checked our email again, we got reply from couch surfing request, he said : “ I talked to you this morning outside Canadian Tires. I was in the field whole week, so only got your email now...” What is the odds of that!

From Whitehorse we headed back into town to stock up on food, a cycle shop owner has this incredible piece of artwork on his front lawn, pretty groovy and a LOT of work.



We also went up to the Salmon ladder which lets the Salmon get up past the dam

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Old 07-04-2012, 06:18 PM   #112
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Whitehorse To Boya Lake

Along the Alaska Highway we were treated to seeing 3 (real) black bears, we also spotted a

Smiling Black bear (dodgy)



moose



and a Bison



They said it was gonna be wildlife rich

We came up a lake called Emerald lake, the colours were stunning





Along the highway it was quite spooky, the remains of a forest fire left millions of tree burnt but standing, for those who saw the movie .. Day Of The Trifods, that is exactly what it looked like.

Further along the relatively tame motorway we came over one of the many metal based bridges, ...don't look down!!



Told you not to look down!





Cassiar Highway

The trip livened up a little after leaving the Alaska Highway when went turned right at junction 37 on to the Cassiar Highway, this road would be mint on my old KTM 990 SMR, 640 km of great road so a good hours ride!!! .... so we took the DRs and the day, Ellen said it as smooth as a baby’s bum ... not sure how she knows this!

We camped at Boya lake and meet some others riders, Shawn from Florida was travelling light and paying for it standing there shivering in front of us, he was wearing a tee shirt and rain jacket, I felt sorry for him and told him to harden the f@#k up so a good kiwi helping hand.

I have to admit that the further South we were traveling the colder it was getting, this was to be the same for the following few days, coupled with rain and no sun things were pretty chilly at times.

A brisk walk in the morning to get the circulation going and we hit the road heading for Meziadin Lake Park, it was very cold when we arrived and got colder during the evening.
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Andi (oveja negra) & Ellen (chica amarilla)...Two Moto Kiwi Grüvers .....riding Maya somewhere ..Una Chimba
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....Where The Hell Are We .. Spot Us

Two Moto Kiwis screwed with this post 07-04-2012 at 06:24 PM Reason: Not Telling
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Old 07-04-2012, 07:54 PM   #113
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Meziadin Lake Park To Stewart/Hyder To Fort St James

On arriving at Meziadin Lake Park we set up camp, nice grassy area s it was n o i c e and soft.

Nice camp and hard case photo.



As soon as we arrived I saw Ellens chain guard ... FAIL!





A bit of Kiwi ingu, ingue, indunit, cunning and we had it all good to go or as good as it gets for a bush repair.

The cold from the evening turned to rain and it rained quietly all night, our intentions were to head to Hyder etc and time dependent maybe stay another night, the grumpy lady at the camp wanted $8.00 to leave our gear there for half a day so that made our decision and we just packed up, she really should be in another job rather than campground hosting.

We left Hobbit in the day use area and took Chiwi two up to Stewart, very nice ride in, no bears at Hyder as it is a little early with no salmon there yet.

We carried on to the end of the road 60km past Hyder which turned out to be a real treat, we had pretty good weather and stunning views, we accidentally went into a construction zone and got told off but we explained our story and the then told us how far we could ride on bla bla bla .. coolio!!

Two Photo Kiwis were at it again taking advantage of Canada finest, we saw a big back bear and a few overgrown otter kinda thingies that were alpine animals.

Here is a number of groovy glacier pics.













Bear Glacier



The little river at the base of Bear Glacier



On our return to Hyder we merrily rode through the customs border crossing as no one had pulled us up on the way in to the US ... the dude from the Canadian side came running out saying STOP in Canadian .. which is STOP in Kiwi too! ... that was lucky 8-D

We had a laugh with him, great guy and we got stamped back into Canada without really leaving it.



That is when the action happened, two BMW 12 hundies went past, I waived and looked in my mirrors to see NZ stickers on them, I said to Ellen that MUST be Dick Hubbard and Ken so we did a Uie and went back to the US again and chased them down it was an all american car chase through Hyder with Hubbard caps stones flying off, tyres squealing on dirt but nothing blew up tho.

We caught up to them, it woulda been a good 400 metre chase but it was over and they recognised the Two Dodgy Kiwis when we told them to pull over .

A great moment of hellos, handshakes and hugs as we had been corresponding over the e and were trying to meet up, as fate would have it with no internet over the last 5 days we bump into them here while trying to do an unintended runner through the Canadian border.

We all rode to the fish and chip shop for photos and chats as ya do, Ellen and I had the Hallibut and chips... YUM, Ken and Dick had already eaten so we gave them some good road info etc and sent them on their way.

The lads



The chicks



Look closely and see the three NZ bikes with NZ stickers in a smile .. something in that



Upon saying goodbyes we went back to the Canadian border, this time somewhat wiser so we stopped without being told to, same dude, same chat, same laughs but no stamp this time time and we were on our way.

Just along from the border was a wee digger, I think they were doing a bit of gardening



One thing that took my eye was a bridge that just kinda stopped!



Then a bridge that really had been stopped but by a grumpy mum nature



Arriving back at Meziadin Lake camp we picked up Hobbit and proceeded to Gitanyow lake, the details of which we had been given by Otis of a secret camp site by the lake, stunning spot and nice wee fire.







Ellen did a nudy bum skinny dip again and the rest that followed I don’t need to explain!!! 8-D



To be bear safe I strung our food pack up in a tree, this turned out to be a very smart move as we had a coupla visitors during the night snuffling and crashing around, I have to admit to being on hi alert ready with out nautical horn etc.

There were bear prints at the base on the tree but the bag was ther and utouched being probably 4 metres high.



The following morning we headed to Fort St James to meet couch surfer Mel, Fort St James is one groovy town, we were there only two minutes at the visitors centre which was closed because it was after hours when a kind gent by the name of Meguel stopped and asked if we needed help.

Well yes we did, no wifi to find Mels addy we did have a phone number but no phone so he kindly took us to his place and we rang Mel to get instructions.

Mel said here drive was very rough .... she was right, potholes, deep puddles, rutted, muddy and very slippery the perfect driveway to any ADVers liking ... except Ellen as she binned Chiwi.

I left Hobbit at the house and headed back up the drive to find Ellen walking with no bike ... Chiwi was another 100 metres up the drive having a sleep in a puddle, Ellen on good advice earlier had just turned off the bike and both fuel taps so her knight in Klim armour could come back and pick up the stricken vessel.

No pics as the camera was at Mels house and the task was to put Chiwis rubber side down.

After greetings etc we had a bite to eat and lit a fire outside sat around and talked shit for a while, super cool!!, I must add at this point that Mel have a very cool log cabin on the side of the lake in a location that is second to none.





Thanks Otis for the lead, we would never have known such a beautiful place was here without the tip as we had our eyes on the Rockies, some great advice that we are taking is look outside of the square and don’t just look at the big notable areas, take a look around OFF the main drag to see some real beauty with really groovy helpful people.
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Old 07-04-2012, 11:27 PM   #114
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Quote:

We camped at Boya lake and meet some others riders, Shawn from Florida was travelling light and paying for it standing there shivering in front of us, he was wearing a tee shirt and rain jacket, I felt sorry for him and told him to harden the f@#k up so a good kiwi helping hand.
Hey Andi and Ellen,

It's Michael. I was one of the other riders you met at Boya Lake. (on the Tenere)

It was good to meet you. I'll be following this thread with interest. Still up in Whitehorse, but I'll be headed back to Seattle on Friday. If you guys are passing through, look me up.

Cheers!

Michael



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Old 07-05-2012, 04:06 AM   #115
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Certainly did a double take seeing Dick Hubbard in the photo. Keep up the good work.
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Old 07-05-2012, 07:18 AM   #116
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Nice pictures! OK, I have to ask, I have just come from the same areas for the first time and I see a picture of the wooden bridge. As I was riding the area I noticed the same thing, LOTS of slippery, brand new wooden bridges. WHY in the world would the Canadians use wood? ALL of them were just like new which means the old one was rotting away in the rain and snow. They are very slick if it's been raining or snow and to me it doesn't make any sense. Can anyone explain this to me please? Sorry for the hijack...
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Old 07-05-2012, 08:33 AM   #117
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Originally Posted by woodly1069 View Post
Nice pictures! OK, I have to ask, I have just come from the same areas for the first time and I see a picture of the wooden bridge. As I was riding the area I noticed the same thing, LOTS of slippery, brand new wooden bridges. WHY in the world would the Canadians use wood? ALL of them were just like new which means the old one was rotting away in the rain and snow. They are very slick if it's been raining or snow and to me it doesn't make any sense. Can anyone explain this to me please? Sorry for the hijack...
A lot of the old bridges did not rot but were washed away or damaged due to flooding...
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Old 07-05-2012, 08:46 AM   #118
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OK, but why replace them with wood? Are they expected to wash away again? Just cheap to rebuild?
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Old 07-05-2012, 09:20 AM   #119
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OK, but why replace them with wood? Are they expected to wash away again? Just cheap to rebuild?
When the bridges washed away the town was cut off, I suspect that they went with whatever material they could access the quickest to get things restored... It is not unlikely that the bridges will wash out again long before they rot as Stewart sits in such a tight valley where a record amount of rain and snow anywhere else is the norm in that town... People often have to shovel down to get to the doors in their houses in the winter and then during the spring the rains go on for days melting the snow and flooding those creeks... Every 10 or 20 years there will be an event where this combo overwhelms the infrastructure, it happened this year over much of the B.C. interior...
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Old 07-05-2012, 09:54 AM   #120
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ok, makes some sense now, thanks!
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