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Old 11-19-2014, 02:43 PM   #1
TrailCruiser OP
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Frame paint product/method

Since winter's here I guess I'd better get my "winter project" torn apart and started. There are enough dings and bad spots in the frame that I think I should tear it down all the way and refinish it, if I don't I'll likely regret it forever after. This leads to the question...

...is there a rattle can product that is up to the task for repainting the frame and related parts, or is powder coating the only real and proper solution? If that's the case, what lustre are most of you using: gloss, or semi-gloss (aka satin)?
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Old 11-19-2014, 03:36 PM   #2
craydds
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is there a rattle can product that is up to the task for repainting the frame and related parts, or is powder coating the only real and proper solution?

Rattle can: Rustoleum, easy, cheap, looks good, works well, easy to touch-up or repaint.
Powder coating: expensive, overrated, looks good, works well, chips just like cheap Rustoleum, hard to touch-up or repair.
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Old 11-19-2014, 04:19 PM   #3
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What I do;

Degrease the frame really well (important first step)
Sand the existing finish to remove all sheen and feather the dings smooth
Mask off the engine, trans and anything else you don't want painted. I use plastic kitchen wrap......shhhh, don't tell the wife
Degrease again
Shoot sealer
Shoot epoxy primer
Shoot the paint
Remove masking and enjoy the beauty

Make sure all products are from the same manufacturer's line and are compatible with each other. For frames, I like 1-stage enamels. Not rattle-can stuff, catelized type paint. It will stand up much better and will not fade from the UV
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Old 11-19-2014, 04:21 PM   #4
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In between, professional prep & paint. Looks really good, not cheap, but easy to touch up and very durable.

In between between. You prep & paint with good spray equipment. Not quite as nice as above, but better than spray-bomb.
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Old 11-19-2014, 08:17 PM   #5
OLD GREEN
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I'm with Cafe Dude on this one though I usually go the extra mile and pull the engine out. It helps to be able to hang the frame at a comfortable height to be able to shoot it from all directions. It also helps to have a spray booth at your disposal.
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Old 11-19-2014, 08:28 PM   #6
CafeDude
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OLD GREEN View Post
I'm with Cafe Dude on this one though I usually go the extra mile and pull the engine out. It helps to be able to hang the frame at a comfortable height to be able to shoot it from all directions. It also helps to have a spray booth at your disposal.
I agree that pulling the engine/trans/wiring and all that is the best way to go. For some reason I thought he wanted a quicker/easier method. My bad.
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Old 11-20-2014, 05:39 AM   #7
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Sorry, guess I wasn't paying close attention (beer & dog who would not stop playing fetch). My very bad.
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Old 11-20-2014, 05:51 AM   #8
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MHO powdercoat is the only way to go especially for a frame. It's cheaper, more durable, and frames are one of the most difficult things to paint well. There are so many tubes going so many different directions it's hard to keep things 'wet' without overspray or orange peel. Powdercoat can be thought of as basically a magnetic process - the frame has a wire hooked to it and the rack it's hanging from has another lead hooked to it, the powder sprays out and is attracted everywhere around the tubes, behind them, in the corners, places you couldn't spray well with air and when the powder reaches 400 degrees it 'snaps' (basically melts like a plastic coating and your done
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Old 11-20-2014, 06:12 AM   #9
Beemeup
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Frames are easy to paint. You get what you pay for though and better paint render a better product. I like to do things myself and a quality single stage like PPG DelStar is very durable, plus touchups are easy when the time comes. A bare frame is the only way you'll get a quality job, it depends on your expectations though, I'm in the do it right the first time camp.

A good prep job and epoxy primer will give you a solid foundation. A touch up gun is all you need and you'll have enough of a window to shoot a full coat on, just start at one end and work your way to the other. Two or three coats will be better than a really wet one and you'll avoid runs.
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Old 11-20-2014, 06:16 AM   #10
97oilhead
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If you go with the rattle can route, I found Dupli-color semi gloss black as a close match to the original, and a product easy to work with. I agree with dismantling the bike, especially to get all the grease and prep the frame properly.

Powder coating does look great, but you know you are going to scrape the frame when you are reinstalling the engine. At least touch ups are easy and cheap with a rattle can.
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Old 11-20-2014, 06:42 AM   #11
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Every time this subject comes up, I'm compelled to give you my stock answer: POR15. They make a hard-as-nails non-uv sensitive coating that can be sprayed or brushed. No disassembly for powdercoat, no bearing removal, just clean, sand mask and paint. While you have the wiring harness off, inspect, clean repair and grease. It's a great project and can only improve the bike for not a lot of money, just time.
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Old 11-20-2014, 06:55 AM   #12
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i was going to say por-15 also
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Old 11-20-2014, 07:05 AM   #13
CafeDude
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POR is a great product. Just be SUPER careful masking off what you don't want it on. Including your hands and floors. Don't ask me how I know.
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Old 11-20-2014, 11:23 AM   #14
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I've had several good experiences using VHT rollbar and chassis paint. Comes in Glossy and Satin (black only).

Self priming/etching, lays down very easy, and touch ups blend in seamlessly with the original coats.

It takes a week or so to fully cure and is fairly easy to scratch until then.

Powdercoat is a great option if you know everything is finished or if you're just restoring a bike back to stock. My bikes tend to be in a constant state of work and updates. Even though my airhead is "Done", I like knowing that I can go back and weld in a bracket somewhere, touch up the paint and be good to go.
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Old 11-20-2014, 11:42 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Player B View Post
... I like knowing that I can go back and weld in a bracket somewhere, touch up the paint and be good to go.
This is why I take the home-brew approach (high quality rattle-can products). I know I'll be back at it fabricating a luggage rack attachment point or something down the line. Sand, weld, paint again. Done.
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