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Old 10-11-2012, 07:26 AM   #31
DiabloADV OP
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As of this morning, I'm inclined to go with low-gloss black main frame and silver subframe. In the interest of function over form, the side panels will not come back. Don't see what function they really serve...

Thoughts...?
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1974 R90/6 w/1050 kit. Motor only. Seeking a frame.
1970 R60/5

'91 Bill Holland Steel w/Dura Ace[/SIZE]
'01 Z3 3.0 Coupe. The Clownshoe.
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Old 10-11-2012, 08:06 AM   #32
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where did the side panels come from?
my version will be a two upper
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Old 10-11-2012, 08:12 AM   #33
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Don't know about the panels. No identifying marks and they are heavily carved-up to fit. And they don't really fit well so I'm ditching them. On a real dirt bike they serve as covers over the pipes but they don't on this bike. Since its a solo bike I don't need covers over the pipes. I'm building a quick on-off standoff rack for when I have side bags loaded.
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1974 R90/6 w/1050 kit. Motor only. Seeking a frame.
1970 R60/5

'91 Bill Holland Steel w/Dura Ace[/SIZE]
'01 Z3 3.0 Coupe. The Clownshoe.
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Old 10-25-2012, 07:10 PM   #34
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Build update. I spent the summer finishing the little Honda and riding my new Honda. Time to get back to the project.

I've spent scores of hours staring at the bike, looking at pictures and thinking about what I want to do. Rebuild it as-is? Or...make it into what I would want to do if I started it myself? I settled on the latter. I want a bike that meets the following needs:

- Good on the highway. Mountains are 3 hours from here, but there is a lot of really nice backroad and canyon riding nearby. So the bike has to be fun to ride day-to-day, not just on a once-a-year trip to Death Valley. But, I don't ride fast and I don't push the limits, so it doesn't have to be *that* good. Stable and steady.

- Can carry gear. A top box (Pelican case), a soft tail bag, soft side bags. I like to go camping and I commute from time to time.

- Moderate offroading ability. Fireroads, desert riding, mild technical stuff. Don't need to go fast offroad, and don't need to do the really crazy stuff. Places a 1200GS can go.

And, function over form is the rule. If function is right, only then can a style decision enter.

All that considered...the bike needs to change. First issue -- it's just too tall. 10" of ground clearance (without rider). 37" seat height. That doesn't fit with "highway friendly." And, my old-man offroad skills mean I need to be able to dab my feet through tricky parts. I started at the subframe, thinking that I needed to raise the shock mounts and lower the back end. But I looked at a lot of photos of stock and modified bikes and I don't think the rear is too tall. Here's a pic of the bike sitting with enough weights on it to match a built bike with a full tank and some camping gear:



The swingarm angle doesn't look extreme to me. The passenger peg bolt hole is roughly in the centerline of the swingarm and I see plenty of bikes like that. So...I don't think I want to drop the back end. So...I took a closer look at the whole bike.



And then dropped the front end 1.75"



That looks more right to me. Ground clearance is still 9.25" -- plenty. Then I cut the subframe tube that the seat sits on, inserted some 1/2" bar to make a sliding arrangement, and pushed the back of the subframe down until I liked the seat setup better, and the rear rack flattened out.



That looks good. Finally, threw the new fenders on there...



Making progress! Need to learn something about shortening CR125 forks...
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1974 R90/6 w/1050 kit. Motor only. Seeking a frame.
1970 R60/5

'91 Bill Holland Steel w/Dura Ace[/SIZE]
'01 Z3 3.0 Coupe. The Clownshoe.

DiabloADV screwed with this post 10-25-2012 at 09:08 PM
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Old 10-25-2012, 09:16 PM   #35
Houseoffubar
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Damn, That looks hot shit! I really like it lowered a touch, it looks "just right"
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Old 10-25-2012, 09:23 PM   #36
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Cool, I was just looking at this thread earlier today. Glad you posted some progress.
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Old 10-25-2012, 09:44 PM   #37
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Thats your static sag but what will your race sag be?

THe seat height might be much for a road bike at 37" but I wouldnt get rid of any ground clearance. Ground clearance is a gift from heaven

SO it only looks like the bell housing on teh shaft was made longer in order to accomodate the longer swingarm?
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Old 10-25-2012, 09:54 PM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stagehand View Post
Thats your static sag but what will your race sag be?

THe seat height might be much for a road bike at 37" but I wouldnt get rid of any ground clearance. Ground clearance is a gift from heaven

SO it only looks like the bell housing on teh shaft was made longer in order to accomodate the longer swingarm?
Shock preload is in the middle of the range now. Should be plenty of room to dial in proper loaded sag. Actually, it was correct before I tore the bike down, so I imagine it will be correct after. I only lose 3/4" ground clearance. The seat came down to 34" mainly due to flattening out the subframe.

I'll have the forks professionally shortened a bit and dialed in after the bike is fully built. Last thing that'll be done...

Yes, the shaft was lengthened at the bell, not on the main shaft. Makes some sense...easier to have the result be straight and strong.
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1974 R90/6 w/1050 kit. Motor only. Seeking a frame.
1970 R60/5

'91 Bill Holland Steel w/Dura Ace[/SIZE]
'01 Z3 3.0 Coupe. The Clownshoe.
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Old 10-25-2012, 10:07 PM   #39
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It looks awesome.
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Old 10-25-2012, 10:20 PM   #40
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nice looking build you have there. and now wonder the seat was dropped as 37inch for the road is fine for a 6.5tall person only.
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Old 10-25-2012, 10:23 PM   #41
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Originally Posted by Stagehand View Post
It looks awesome.
Thanks! You prompted me to get an update written...
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1974 R90/6 w/1050 kit. Motor only. Seeking a frame.
1970 R60/5

'91 Bill Holland Steel w/Dura Ace[/SIZE]
'01 Z3 3.0 Coupe. The Clownshoe.
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Old 10-26-2012, 09:41 AM   #42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DiabloADV View Post
Need to learn something about shortening CR125 forks...
If they're not cartridge forks, it's pretty simple. You put a spacer between the top-out spring (under the damper rod) and the bottom of the fork tube. This limits the travel and increases the overlap between the tubes and sliders. If you have an existing spacer on top of the spring, the same amount (i.e., swapping locations) under the damper rod equals the same spacing/preload on top of the spring. The spring doesn't care where the spacers are, so long as they add up to the same amount. If, however, you put more spacer under the damper rod than you had already, you'll have to shorten the spring. Like I said, it's pretty simple, but there are things to consider.

Cartridge forks? Not so easy.
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Old 10-26-2012, 09:43 AM   #43
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Old 10-26-2012, 10:12 AM   #44
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Cartridge forks? Not so easy.
Forks are a mystery to me and I don't know if these are cartridge or not. Anybody have a linky to a diagram of the two types?
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1974 R90/6 w/1050 kit. Motor only. Seeking a frame.
1970 R60/5

'91 Bill Holland Steel w/Dura Ace[/SIZE]
'01 Z3 3.0 Coupe. The Clownshoe.
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Old 10-26-2012, 10:01 PM   #45
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Originally Posted by DiabloADV View Post
Forks are a mystery to me and I don't know if these are cartridge or not. Anybody have a linky to a diagram of the two types?
http://racetech.com/articles/CartridgeForks.htm
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