R90/6 Texas Dirtbike rebuild - Page 4

Beater · 10-27-2012, 06:28 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DiabloADV

Change of plan...I'm going to restore it back the way it was built. Only things I'm changing are (1) the back of the subframe to create a better rack for bags or boxes, and (2) lowering the ride height by about an inch. I might go with a Baja Designs round race light instead of the dualsport-style light on it now.

Acerbis still makes all those plastics, so I can get new ones cheap. It'll be fresh and new!

Great Decision. This needs to be that dirt / ADV bike again.

Let's face it, you'd need serious frame mods and reinforcing for it to be a big dirt bike ... but keeping it this way it will become a really comfortable trail / forest service road / ADV bike ... And if you want to make a scrambler ... you can find one less mod'ed in order to make the transformation.

And besides ... this one looks SO GOOD

Lovin the rebuild.

DiabloADV · 10-27-2012, 08:54 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Beater

Great Decision. This needs to be that dirt / ADV bike again.

Well, it will be functionally that bike, but altered a little to fit my needs. eg, it's not set up to carry gear for a trip. I need to fix that. The geometry is not right for long road miles, and I need to fix that, too.

What I'm NOT doing is chasing a style...I'm chasing functionality first. But I am using the aluminum fenders. That's my main vanity feature -- I just like that look and I think it's right for an old boxer.

I picked up some tubing yesterday and will start working on a new subframe -- I'm building the correct rear rack and side bag standoffs right into the subframe so it's all one piece.

I'm sending off the wheel hubs and a few other bits to be blasted clean so I can get the new wheels built up while I work out the subframe, seat mount and tank mount. I really want this thing on the road by spring. Going to be a big snow year and I want to go see the Yosemite waterfalls.

DiabloADV · 10-27-2012, 02:07 PM

More mockup to make sure the plan will work.

chollo9 · 10-28-2012, 07:55 AM

Nice. Like the overall look.

chollo9 · 10-28-2012, 08:02 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DiabloADV

Well, it will be functionally that bike, but altered a little to fit my needs. eg, it's not set up to carry gear for a trip. I need to fix that. The geometry is not right for long road miles, and I need to fix that, too.

What I'm NOT doing is chasing a style...I'm chasing functionality first.

This is what it was all about with mine. Oh, wait, IS all about, 'cause it's not done.

It's got to work everywhere that I want it to--any surface, commute, tour, etc.

Make it your own, man.

tdrrally · 10-28-2012, 08:17 AM

your bike is my muse

apt13 · 10-28-2012, 01:25 PM

lookin great!
the seat reminded me of this recent build from CRD.

http://www.crdmotorcycles.com/motos/...-the-challenge

bmwblake · 10-29-2012, 11:44 AM

have you checked to make sure you have clearance between the front engine cover and the front wheel at full compression of the suspension? sliding the forks up that far might cause interference. it's hard to tell from the picture.

DiabloADV · 10-29-2012, 11:59 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bmwblake

have you checked to make sure you have clearance between the front engine cover and the front wheel at full compression of the suspension? sliding the forks up that far might cause interference. it's hard to tell from the picture.

Yup...plenty of clearance. Room for the fender, too.

DiabloADV · 11-03-2012, 08:22 PM

Starting on the subframe/rack. I got the wrong tubing for the main subframe (3/4", but too thin-walled) so I started on the top rack. Got it flat and square on the first try! 12" square...will have three crossbars. Wide enough to mount my Pelican case hardware bits, or a big Motofizz bag. Side standoffs next...

Freakster · 11-04-2012, 09:36 PM

Awesome project..i have a R75/6 in the shed.. Also planned to go dirt with her.

Following in awe!

DiabloADV · 11-05-2012, 08:53 PM

I got a heavier gauge of 3/4 tubing for the top rail of the subframe. The existing subframe was relatively light gauge since the bike was probably not used for fully loaded touring. I want to be able to have a single strut (on each side) holding up the subframe, with the top rail cantilevered out past the seat and strong enough to hold ~70-80 pounds of gear on rough roads. So I cut off the old subframe, preserving the nice mounts for the shock, and welded in my heavier gauge tubing. I notched the bottom of the tubing on both sides of the butt joint and inserted a piece of 1/2" tubing that was notched and bent till it spring-fit. Welded over that notch on my highest voltage, and then welded the butt joint. This should now be overbuilt by an order of magnitude.

Next up is to finalize the angle of these rails and bend the part that extends past the seat so they are level to the ground. Then make the support rail that bolts to the old footpeg bracket. All the rest of the tubing can be lighter gauge.

Cdubs · 11-05-2012, 10:47 PM

Love the look of the trials tire, looks so period correct! Makes me want to rip into the G/S!

DiabloADV · 11-06-2012, 07:08 AM

BTW -- I weighed the pieces of tubing. The difference between making the subframe "as strong as all the other ones" and "overbuilt crazy strong" is only 1.7 lbs. Small price to pay for peace of mind.

tdrrally · 11-06-2012, 09:39 AM

its coming along nicely

10-27-2012, 02:07 PM	#48
DiabloADV ^OP Semi-Occasional Joined: Oct 2010 Location: Nor Cal, USA Oddometer: 1,534	More mockup to make sure the plan will work. __________________ '74/'70 R98/6/GS Traveling Bike (construction under way) '91 Bill Holland Steel w/Dura Ace

10-28-2012, 07:55 AM	#49
chollo9 Screwed the Pooch Joined: Jul 2003 Location: Silk Hope, NC Oddometer: 496	Nice. Like the overall look. __________________ If your gonna be dumb, you gotta be tough When you get knocked down you gotta get back up, I ain't the sharpest knife in the drawer but I know enough, to know, If your gonna be dumb, you gotta be tough

10-28-2012, 08:17 AM	#51
tdrrally Beastly Adventurer Joined: May 2008 Location: doing hard time in charleston,wv Oddometer: 2,869	your bike is my muse __________________ 2002 DRZ250 what it lacks in horse power it makes up for with traction for sale 2000 DRZ400e tagged 1980 TS125 project in the corner 200? zuma 50/70 the wifes bike

10-28-2012, 01:25 PM	#52
apt13 Gnarly Adventurer Joined: Dec 2010 Location: Athens, GA Oddometer: 391	lookin great! the seat reminded me of this recent build from CRD. http://www.crdmotorcycles.com/motos/...-the-challenge __________________ ---- '78 R80/7 '74 CB360 Airhead Tshirts!

11-03-2012, 08:22 PM	#55
DiabloADV ^OP Semi-Occasional Joined: Oct 2010 Location: Nor Cal, USA Oddometer: 1,534	Starting on the subframe/rack. I got the wrong tubing for the main subframe (3/4", but too thin-walled) so I started on the top rack. Got it flat and square on the first try! 12" square...will have three crossbars. Wide enough to mount my Pelican case hardware bits, or a big Motofizz bag. Side standoffs next... __________________ '74/'70 R98/6/GS Traveling Bike (construction under way) '91 Bill Holland Steel w/Dura Ace

10-29-2012, 11:44 AM	#53
bmwblake upside down parker Joined: Mar 2004 Location: nashville, tn Oddometer: 3,238	have you checked to make sure you have clearance between the front engine cover and the front wheel at full compression of the suspension? sliding the forks up that far might cause interference. it's hard to tell from the picture.

11-04-2012, 09:36 PM	#56
Freakster n00b Joined: Oct 2012 Oddometer: 7	Awesome project..i have a R75/6 in the shed.. Also planned to go dirt with her. Following in awe!

11-05-2012, 08:53 PM	#57
DiabloADV ^OP Semi-Occasional Joined: Oct 2010 Location: Nor Cal, USA Oddometer: 1,534	I got a heavier gauge of 3/4 tubing for the top rail of the subframe. The existing subframe was relatively light gauge since the bike was probably not used for fully loaded touring. I want to be able to have a single strut (on each side) holding up the subframe, with the top rail cantilevered out past the seat and strong enough to hold ~70-80 pounds of gear on rough roads. So I cut off the old subframe, preserving the nice mounts for the shock, and welded in my heavier gauge tubing. I notched the bottom of the tubing on both sides of the butt joint and inserted a piece of 1/2" tubing that was notched and bent till it spring-fit. Welded over that notch on my highest voltage, and then welded the butt joint. This should now be overbuilt by an order of magnitude. Next up is to finalize the angle of these rails and bend the part that extends past the seat so they are level to the ground. Then make the support rail that bolts to the old footpeg bracket. All the rest of the tubing can be lighter gauge. __________________ '74/'70 R98/6/GS Traveling Bike (construction under way) '91 Bill Holland Steel w/Dura Ace

11-05-2012, 10:47 PM	#58
Cdubs made for adventure Joined: May 2011 Location: SF, CA Oddometer: 49	Love the look of the trials tire, looks so period correct! Makes me want to rip into the G/S!

11-06-2012, 07:08 AM	#59
DiabloADV ^OP Semi-Occasional Joined: Oct 2010 Location: Nor Cal, USA Oddometer: 1,534	BTW -- I weighed the pieces of tubing. The difference between making the subframe "as strong as all the other ones" and "overbuilt crazy strong" is only 1.7 lbs. Small price to pay for peace of mind. __________________ '74/'70 R98/6/GS Traveling Bike (construction under way) '91 Bill Holland Steel w/Dura Ace

11-06-2012, 09:39 AM	#60
tdrrally Beastly Adventurer Joined: May 2008 Location: doing hard time in charleston,wv Oddometer: 2,869	its coming along nicely __________________ 2002 DRZ250 what it lacks in horse power it makes up for with traction for sale 2000 DRZ400e tagged 1980 TS125 project in the corner 200? zuma 50/70 the wifes bike

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