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Old 05-27-2012, 06:27 AM   #61
MoBill OP
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Hey Chris, welcome...Ron, Shawn, Steve....if I missed anyone, I'm grateful you're here. Posts got a little ways away from me. Thinking about the fact you're all here with me.
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Old 05-27-2012, 08:12 AM   #62
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Originally Posted by MoBill View Post
Hey Chris, welcome...Ron, Shawn, Steve....if I missed anyone, I'm grateful you're here. Posts got a little ways away from me. Thinking about the fact you're all here with me.
Well then you better buy me a beer

I'll pay you back if you ever get out here for another visit
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Old 05-27-2012, 08:38 AM   #63
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Gawd I want to go to India in the worst way.

Safe travels, boys!
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Old 05-27-2012, 08:49 PM   #64
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Some of my initial impressions of India are of an ancient culture and a new government….one struggling to make a transition to modernity. Now..I KNOW that is not a reveleation to anyone, but when you come see it first hand, at least for me, I realize, it’s not like they trekked Westward into virtually uninhabited lands and established a frontier, from which sprang the 19th Century Americas. There are centuries here to build upon…so my whole frame of reference for the nation and its people is different.

Coming here you realize just what it means to have a old culture and a new government. There is something deep in the bones here…maybe I’m describing what some people theorize is a collective memory…but I really think it’s the results of a perception, since childhood, of where your roots are. I think for a second about my own awareness of my genealogy. I’ve got a half assed idea of where I’m from…or the complete loss of those details for people, worldwide, who are decedents of slaves, no matter where they’re from.

A friend told me recently after learning of a rich heritage in his family, one hidden from him until middle age, “if I’d known about them (these honorable men in his line) I might have made better choices” (meaning, knowning where he came from and what his forefathers had been, might have given him that boost).

So….I think that there are variations on that theme, perhaps few know much of their past generations here…but it sure feels like there are age old foundations. And you know how that goes…history can give you a solid foundation, but it can be limiting…I think we see that in personal relationships, business models, innovation, invention, military tactics….

I suspect that something that just bores the shit out of people is my penchant for stating the obvious. But there is a difference between notional and real knowledge to me. Coming here I have impressions both confirmed and broken.

It’s that whole “travel is fatal to prejudice and bigotry” thing….hey…sidebar….I just heard my first jet since leaving the Plains…..I’ve heard 3 or 4 choppers, but zero fixed wing aircraft at least since Manali…that really just means that the corridors aren’t coincident with our route. But it also illustrates the remoteness of the region.

I think the people of India love this too…we’ve run into tourists from all over southern India and they all know and love the Himalayas. I don’t know how many actually make it to Ladakh (which is a county of the state of Jammu and Kashmir) I think a lot though get to Himachal Pradesh (which is where the city of Manali is) south of here and experience it.

As we rode north from Delhi, I reveled in that heat. I don’t prefer it, I wanted to be cooler, but the heat takes your breath away. You have to love it. I felt like I was being basted by hot air in a convection oven. Heading North on Rt 1 our of Delhi was a straight shot to Chandagahr…the first big city we rode through…there were others, but we were on a bombing run to the foothills and cooler weather.

At Chandagahr we just followed signs for Manali, ignoring the GPS…in fact, you could navigate here without it no sweat. We boxed the obstacle of the center of town by just following signs. I had my first India experience with a beggar at a stop light in Chandagahr, a young woman with a baby, pleading and tapping my arm….I know…there have been times where I give, and time when I don’t, you know in that time and place and moment you can’t make any lasting impact—but it’s the old parable of the grandson tossing starfish back into the ocean…anyway, in the US…it’s funny we call them “homeless”…I know that we make our impacts many ways, and sometimes it is on the side of the street. It wasn’t in this case, light green, off you go---but I’ll hold on to her face in my mind and I’ll not suppress the emotion the swept through me as I drove away.

Right away, gas and go…and we climb into the hills. I love the dicing with traffic, I love it on the NJ Turnpike and in NYC and this is no different. None. Confidence, throttle and geometry…ok and luck and depth perception...

I'm having quite a bit of trouble loading Pix...Mark's had more luck--so keep your eye on his for the photos for today at least.
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Old 05-28-2012, 05:07 AM   #65
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Awesome Bill! Keep it coming!
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Old 05-28-2012, 06:14 PM   #66
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YoBill, Looking good!



One of the most amazing thing about those mountains is their sheer scale.
No picture can truly represent how massive they really are!
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Old 05-28-2012, 07:40 PM   #67
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MoBill View Post
Some of my initial impressions of India are of an ancient culture and a new government….one struggling to make a transition to modernity. Now..I KNOW that is not a reveleation to anyone, but when you come see it first hand, at least for me, I realize, it’s not like they trekked Westward into virtually uninhabited lands and established a frontier, from which sprang the 19th Century Americas. There are centuries here to build upon…so my whole frame of reference for the nation and its people is different.

Coming here you realize just what it means to have a old culture and a new government. There is something deep in the bones here…maybe I’m describing what some people theorize is a collective memory…but I really think it’s the results of a perception, since childhood, of where your roots are. I think for a second about my own awareness of my genealogy. I’ve got a half assed idea of where I’m from…or the complete loss of those details for people, worldwide, who are decedents of slaves, no matter where they’re from.

A friend told me recently after learning of a rich heritage in his family, one hidden from him until middle age, “if I’d known about them (these honorable men in his line) I might have made better choices” (meaning, knowning where he came from and what his forefathers had been, might have given him that boost).

So….I think that there are variations on that theme, perhaps few know much of their past generations here…but it sure feels like there are age old foundations. And you know how that goes…history can give you a solid foundation, but it can be limiting…I think we see that in personal relationships, business models, innovation, invention, military tactics….

I suspect that something that just bores the shit out of people is my penchant for stating the obvious. But there is a difference between notional and real knowledge to me. Coming here I have impressions both confirmed and broken.

It’s that whole “travel is fatal to prejudice and bigotry” thing….hey…sidebar….I just heard my first jet since leaving the Plains…..I’ve heard 3 or 4 choppers, but zero fixed wing aircraft at least since Manali…that really just means that the corridors aren’t coincident with our route. But it also illustrates the remoteness of the region.

I think the people of India love this too…we’ve run into tourists from all over southern India and they all know and love the Himalayas. I don’t know how many actually make it to Ladakh (which is a county of the state of Jammu and Kashmir) I think a lot though get to Himachal Pradesh (which is where the city of Manali is) south of here and experience it.

As we rode north from Delhi, I reveled in that heat. I don’t prefer it, I wanted to be cooler, but the heat takes your breath away. You have to love it. I felt like I was being basted by hot air in a convection oven. Heading North on Rt 1 our of Delhi was a straight shot to Chandagahr…the first big city we rode through…there were others, but we were on a bombing run to the foothills and cooler weather.

At Chandagahr we just followed signs for Manali, ignoring the GPS…in fact, you could navigate here without it no sweat. We boxed the obstacle of the center of town by just following signs. I had my first India experience with a beggar at a stop light in Chandagahr, a young woman with a baby, pleading and tapping my arm….I know…there have been times where I give, and time when I don’t, you know in that time and place and moment you can’t make any lasting impact—but it’s the old parable of the grandson tossing starfish back into the ocean…anyway, in the US…it’s funny we call them “homeless”…I know that we make our impacts many ways, and sometimes it is on the side of the street. It wasn’t in this case, light green, off you go---but I’ll hold on to her face in my mind and I’ll not suppress the emotion the swept through me as I drove away.

Right away, gas and go…and we climb into the hills. I love the dicing with traffic, I love it on the NJ Turnpike and in NYC and this is no different. None. Confidence, throttle and geometry…ok and luck and depth perception...

I'm having quite a bit of trouble loading Pix...Mark's had more luck--so keep your eye on his for the photos for today at least.
Awesome post, Bill. Keep em coming
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Old 05-30-2012, 10:18 PM   #68
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Smiles all, back in Manali...I keep sayin' "Goin' to Manali, Manali, Manali...I'm going to Manali....I don't think so" (LL Cool J for all the uninitiated).

Actually, Old Manali. Pix of that well, maybe soon? For now...Leh. and some others

I don't have a sense to do chronological report right now. Taking in India, for me it would be like eating my meal in order around the plate...I think I'm feeling the experience more like a sponges soaks in water, from multiple points of contact.

I'm grateful to have been in Keylong for a second time...and in Old Manali now...some repetition is good.

Unrelated, two young ladies sharing headphones and listening to music outside the government offices where one files for permit to go to places like Pangong Lake, and in our case, Khardong La...
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Old 05-30-2012, 10:30 PM   #69
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You know I've spent more time with Mark in the last 10 days than any other person in 20 years, excepting my wife and my roommate in Iraq...just saying, interesting to me.

Everyday mundane...this corner was a disaster of garbage, but was a central collection point, nonetheless (I love how things get done differently) you'll see...


Then...at a given time, the truck showed up and people poured out of the local businesses, this was about 0730:


And voila!






Random thought...
In my time here, I've experienced some interesting effects of high altitude...what I think is the lack of oxygen flow to the extremities, manifested by pins and needles, tachycardia, etc....the hydration seemed to be the key. And just keep your cool and relax....
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Old 05-30-2012, 11:00 PM   #70
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The rides and scenery have been epic, and some of the road conditions were such that the Border Road Organisation was hard at work, here is Mark..."should I ride that 6 inch gap in front of the blade?"


I love this picture...almost doesn't look real, south of Leh




Can you feel the weight of history? Both a shackle and a foundation? In this sense, a firm foundation. Perhaps I'll let you decide how it is a shackle.

This is Jimmy...we started seeing these little 150cc DS bikes in Leh...looks wonderful...I told him, be careful Jimmy, don't go nuts right off...then a few hours later Mark and I are walking and he's ripping down the road on Fort Rd where we stayed, I yelled, "Damn it Jimmy, slow the hell down!" ...Mark looked at me with an inquisitive smile, I explained...
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Old 05-30-2012, 11:18 PM   #71
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Man, those pannier guards are sweet.
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Old 05-30-2012, 11:31 PM   #72
MoBill OP
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I pointed them out today for that use...that they'd serve that purpose very well. I wish you could get a right side.

They're for the pillion, here, most women sit side saddle, they're amazing at it. Mark has some pix of ADV woman...skillz. They have 'em.


What's up man? You're up late
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Old 05-30-2012, 11:47 PM   #73
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Like this:


This is ADV Girl
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Old 05-30-2012, 11:49 PM   #74
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Back to this Stupa...see the prayer wheels all the way around...see some people there, walking, praying and spinning each one...
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Old 05-31-2012, 04:56 AM   #75
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Great RR B !!! Go B Go
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