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Old 07-01-2012, 01:14 PM   #16
etingelefunts OP
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Location: Southeastern U.S.
Oddometer: 796
HID50 upgrade





Euro switch. Plug and play light function selection.
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etingelefunts screwed with this post 07-01-2012 at 02:46 PM
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Old 07-01-2012, 01:19 PM   #17
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Dual Fans

Foam seal for straight pull efficiency






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Old 07-01-2012, 01:21 PM   #18
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Blacken swingarm

Ready for prep




Blasted






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etingelefunts screwed with this post 07-01-2012 at 02:42 PM
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Old 07-01-2012, 01:28 PM   #19
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Stebel horn

Seperated horn from compressor, fabbed to fit peeking out from chin guard


1/8 NPT pipe tap to fit air line to remote compressor






Relay for compressor mounted to brake cable guide stud



Compressor zip tied to old emissions pump bracket, and stabilized by cross-brace between ground stud on bike and mounting boss on compressor's left end. This is rock solid to prevent compressor from abusing surrounding wires
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Old 07-01-2012, 01:32 PM   #20
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ABS manager

Bio-engineering has arrived!



Left side view
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Old 07-01-2012, 01:34 PM   #21
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Wow, lotta work there...looks great. I really like the muted color scheme for the painted parts.
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Old 07-01-2012, 01:43 PM   #22
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CPR pre-filter/Throttle Body splash guard

Could not bare (bear) a naked TB, so I devized a cocoon of sorts, to retain the lower barrier, and augment a custom modified Outerwears pre-filter to protect the new CPR. This involves a lot of trimming, fab work, heat seam sealers, needle and thread, rivets etc.

1/2"x1/2" x1/16" aluminum channel perimitter rivetted on 3 sides of shortenned (lower height) bottom half housing


Front end gets scalloped further down for elastic band clearance (will make more sense later)


Shows approximate height reduction


Scallop and front left edge geometry;


Solid cold rivets and improvized rivet press;



Note polished concave head to protect anodized rivets










Removable rear portion for possible crankcase vent oil seperator bracket considerations




True surface (schedule 80 PVC bonded to removable front) for front screw down cross over flange which is attached to removable cable guide that use to also have the snorkel opening (sealed up with a piece of ABS plastic


Stud attached to lower left corner of front flange to keep pre-filter from running under too far


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etingelefunts screwed with this post 07-01-2012 at 01:54 PM
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Old 07-01-2012, 01:57 PM   #23
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CPR base plate mod

See this milled pocket which allows linkage clearance? (next to the white sensor)


Had to make a similar pocket for connector clearances on my 2008


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Old 07-01-2012, 02:03 PM   #24
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CPR coming together

See flange all the way around for pre-filter?








Forward flange over "scalloped" base and schedule 80 PVC now has passage for elastic



Note shortened side covers to allow elastic to tuck under.


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Old 07-01-2012, 02:14 PM   #25
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Location: Southeastern U.S.
Oddometer: 796
Safari Tank problem...

The fuel pump opening was NOT centered well between the tank's 4 molded in threaded inserts.



Additionally the bored openning was not a true cylindrical shape, it was rough, and wandered creating a passage that was like an animal's burrow. This not only prevented the pump's O-rings from having a good sealing surface, it caused several dillemmas.
  • Once the opening was centered, it would be so large the circumferential O-ring would be useless.
  • The Tank apparently warped as it cooled because the 4 flange inserts were not in a square pattern, their orientation was not even rectangular. It was a quadralateral pattern that would only allow insertion of two bolts at one position, let alone 3 or 4.
  • Inserts had air pockets in the surrounding plastic which further debilitated the potential for an adequate liquid seal.
Remedied as follows;

Fashioned arbor for 1" belt sanding paper, with a diameter well under the target size;




Made a test plug gage to establish a stopping point on the re-bored hole;


Bored carefully, frequently testing the progress with the gage




Took a piece of stainless steel and commenced building a flanged coupler;











Two "barbs" were incorporated to minimize the chore any sealant would have to perform for a press fit
The flange is .080" thick, the coupler is .400" tall. The cylindrical insert portion has a max wall thickness of .055, with .017" deep barb grooves for a minimum wall thickness of .038".


Test fit... good and snug!!


Fuel proof adhesive (one side) gasket to stick to coupler, tank side will have Hylomar fuel proof sealant applied. Note, I used the coupler to test for "wobble" against the tank, and filed down high spots until the coupler had little or no large gaps for the sealant to bridge.



Located and punched holes


Assembled components and pressed in, wiping off excess sealant


Screwed down pump and let it set overnight. Now pump removal and service won't ever have to involve re-application of sealant, since the pump's o-rings have a pristine coupler to seal against every time.
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etingelefunts screwed with this post 07-01-2012 at 02:36 PM
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Old 07-01-2012, 02:49 PM   #26
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Location: Southeastern U.S.
Oddometer: 796
G2 Throttle cam

Seems to help\
Also put on the KTM foam grip donuts to eliminate thumb blisters. The black side is softest and it REALLY works!!
Note the versatile mirrors. I think they came from Neduro (bought them a few years ago...rusty memory)
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Old 07-01-2012, 02:52 PM   #27
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DIY chain tool

Heavy steel block as an anvil, dimpled punch (concave to swage link pins)

Used the c-clamp only to coax the parts together for final swaging.
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Old 07-01-2012, 03:08 PM   #28
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EFI fuel pump purge module

Trying to find pictures.
In the mean time here's a review;



Pro's
  • Works as advertized
  • Well made (almost too well.... see con's)
  • Plug and play (except for easy check valve mod)
  • Compact, very functional mod
Con's
  • Soldered connector at pump (nice touch) prevented snap closure. Solder had flowed into the channel where the fuel pump's male terminals needed to reside. This prevented the connectors from locking. Had to de-solder the pair and re-apply, also had to scrape out some of the silicone (again nice touch) from the unused 3rd cavity on the module, since the fuel pump connector had an spade in the 3rd spot (unused) fighting to get through the module's sealed port. Once completed everything was smooth sailing.
  • The above chore is not easily achieved with average soldering kits. A solder sucker or de-soldering braided copper tape and flux is almost essential. Having said that I still admire the manufacturer's willingness to take those extra steps. Most gizmos now days are crimp and forget. This module is built with long term service in mind, sealed, soldered, and wrapped in vibration damping foam. Top notch concept and idea.
Mounting location was nestled into the crescent shaped arches on the bottom of the battery box. The webs at the front and back allow for small holes to be drilled, for passing a zip-tie around the foam padding of the module, thus pulling it upwards against the crescent shaped arches.


Note;
When splicing in the new check valve, it was necessary on mine to abbreviate both segments of hose after the pump to a minimum, to help prevent any kinks from forming between the pump and quik-disconnect leading to the throttle body
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etingelefunts screwed with this post 07-01-2012 at 03:17 PM
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Old 07-01-2012, 03:22 PM   #29
etingelefunts OP
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Joined: May 2012
Location: Southeastern U.S.
Oddometer: 796
Honorable mention

  • Weld86 bash plate... Love it
  • Euro Headlight housing... Love it
  • CJ Designs quik oil change hose... Love it. Tidy light and functional. Hated $10 extra for the orange fittings, but the quality made it painless, and CJ is great to work with
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Old 07-01-2012, 03:48 PM   #30
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Location: Southeastern U.S.
Oddometer: 796
Air oil seperator

Idea borrowed from halls of wisdom.
Unlike original concept I elected to retain check valve to keep dust from backflowing.
Small filter on order to cap the end
Unit is from a 2006 XR650L
Works GREAT! Highly recommended

Flipped stock breather hose over and around towards rear


Mated to air/oil seperator mounted where old emissions garb use to be


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