Building up Bike

[etingelefunts]

Originally Posted by cjracer

Great build up! Very nice job.

Thanks my friend!!
It's me Kip

Recognize the stuff you sold me?
Still sorting out a side stand relocator, and saving for YOUR complete Rekluse kit.

[cjracer]

Originally Posted by etingelefunts

Thanks my friend!!
It's me Kip

Recognize the stuff you sold me?
Still sorting out a side stand relocator, and saving for YOUR complete Rekluse kit.

I thought that was you, but didn't recognize the name change.

I have baskets/ EXPs and Covers ready for you whenever you are.

Love the Machine work pics.

[etingelefunts]

If I could find the coin I'd say send them today, and it would be paid for before the install was complete (a few weeks)
I'm hurryin up and finding that coin

Getting the Zumo 550 mounted this week.
Forgot to mention the Shorai battery you sold me. That joker is feather light and works like a charm!

[DUNDAS]

Amazing eye for detail and machine work dude!

[etingelefunts]

It was much more work than anticipated, mainly little glitches slowed it down, but it was fun.

[K2m]

Originally Posted by etingelefunts

. Aluminum that has been hard anodized is treated at low pressure to lightly scuff the surface as to not reduce the effect of the surface hardness.

Hope this helps

I was thinking something like that but Google-ing was returning just paint it........ Looks like I can get away with some 1200 wet/dry first to break the hardness(this is the key to success), then etch, then colour with oven.

My bike looks as rough as guts while I'm working on it but I'll put a lot of effort in to produce a good finish.

Another question....... sorry I noticed you removed the pistons/seals from the calipers. Do you think I could bake at 200c without removing them. I was thinking the must reach high temps in use when braking ....... On the other hand its a $1000 brake system Yikes !

Also I'm happy to delete my photo post if you wish so as not to Hijack as I only wanted to show that my questions were not just padding, and that I have a serious undertaking. It's a good idea to get that clutch basket from CJ. I'm going to get one to . Thanks for your link.......



And sorry Banana you caught me at a bad time The missing word is not shit...... it's metal

[etingelefunts]

My gut tells me the pistons would handle the 200-250 required, but remember the brake fluid can't be completely flushed with them in, and it would stink to have it leach into the fresh paint during the bake. I used a 1/8" thick plate against the open passage fingers to catch the pistons during a light shot of compressed air to pop them out. Remove plate and pull them the rest of the way by hand. Removing the fittings and pistons takes all of 2 minutes. Then flush the caliper housing with hot water and soap just like washing a coffee cup. Now your tape and paint will not be problematic. Hard part is sourcing plugs for the fitting holes and piston cavities (the latter can be taped over), which ought not be painted or blasted.

[kamanya]

Really neat build!

Nice colours.

[K2m]

Originally Posted by kamanya

Really neat build!

Nice colours.

+1

A very good eye for colour balance (Photographers eye)

And the skills to go with it. I wonder what you will be doing in 20 years.

I can't believe how well you have blended that Safari tank in... It looks like it came from the factory. They usually stick out like dogs balls

Some of the guys that have complimented you have done some very good work over the years.............. Hi praise indeed

Here is a link to one of NYC's Professional Photographers..... Sakurama's projects
http://www.teamincomplete.com/Boxer/theboxer-page1.html

[K2m]

I have taken in everything you have said on the anodised caliper.

Unfortunately being a 4 piston design these are very difficult to remove the pistons with compressed air. It can be pulled apart, but I am reticent to do so as I just do not know the consequences of doing so. The manufacturer has used Torqux head bolts which usually means "Do not open". If I lived in the USA it would not bother me. These brakes are the best in the world, and well worth the 1000 bucks.......... So......... I would put new engine cases on my motor without blinking, but I'm scared to touch this calliper.......

I'll sand it with Wet & Dry 1200, and mask up as you cannot see the inside of this calliper. I have an idea to stop the fluid from leaking onto the job during heating (I usually let it dry a few days before putting it in the oven......... A lot less smell in the kitchen..... open the windows, put a fan on.)

Kip .....thank you for taking the time to answer my post

[etingelefunts]

Originally Posted by K2m

....Also I'm happy to delete my photo post if you wish so as not to Hijack as I only wanted to show that my questions were not just padding, and that I have a serious undertaking.......

I think the person that mentioned "hijacking" was refering to the long series of photos of your projects from other existing threads, that you pasted into this build thread.

I appreciated the questions. One option that works equally well is to paste a link to the post or thread where those pictures are, so they don't get confused with the build in this thread.

Originally Posted by K2m

I have taken in everything you have said on the anodised caliper.

Unfortunately being a 4 piston design these are very difficult to remove the pistons with compressed air. It can be pulled apart, but I am reticent to do so as I just do not know the consequences of doing so. The manufacturer has used Torqux head bolts which usually means "Do not open". .......
I'll sand it with Wet & Dry 1200, and mask up as you cannot see the inside of this calliper. I have an idea to stop the fluid from leaking onto the job during heating (I usually let it dry a few days before putting it in the oven......... A lot less smell in the kitchen..... open the windows, put a fan on.)

Kip .....thank you for taking the time to answer my post

I would contact the manufacturer to ask if it is OK to seperate the halves, since the brake fluid won't dry out much if at all where the passages to the pistons are. Torx bolts are everywhere on the Adventure.... meant to be disassembled in spite of the head type. Not sure why the calipers use of Torx would be a message not to disassmble. In those instances you'll usually see a rivet or proprietary bolt. Still I see your concern. I would ask the manufacturer.

[etingelefunts]

Originally Posted by kamanya

Really neat build!

Nice colours.

Thank you Sir! If my plans pan out, I may be touring Africa on this bike next year.

Originally Posted by K2m

+1

A very good eye for colour balance (Photographers eye)

And the skills to go with it. I wonder what you will be doing in 20 years.

I can't believe how well you have blended that Safari tank in... It looks like it came from the factory. They usually stick out like dogs balls

Some of the guys that have complimented you have done some very good work over the years.............. Hi praise indeed

Here is a link to one of NYC's Professional Photographers..... Sakurama's projects
http://www.teamincomplete.com/Boxer/theboxer-page1.html

Lucky lighting I guess. All cell phone pictures. In 20 years I'll be pushing 70. Hopefully I will be reloading and shooting targets from a mountain cabin, with a good wife and dog to keep me company after the sun goes down.
Over half of the aspects of my build were inspired by builders here, including your oil seperator K2M, so any praise recieved compliments my willingness to learn from them, you, and others. This forum has made my bike what it is. Thanks!

[Pete640]

A wel thought out and executed refresh. Great work.. exceptional work on the muffler - great idea.

[K2m]

Originally Posted by etingelefunts

I think the person that mentioned "hijacking" was refering to the long series of photos of your projects from other existing threads, that you pasted into this build thread.

I appreciated the questions. One option that works equally well is to paste a link to the post or thread where those pictures are, so they don't get confused with the build in this thread.

.

I understand

I have not done that as I have a photobucket acc. I have about 2,000 photos in 13 folders, so I see a photo that matches what I talking about and copy the Img link. I never gave it a thought the repetitiveness but I don't get to spend much time here these days. At least my photos alwase remain in the thread. Its a real bummer to find something that catches your interest and discover the photos are missing. Sakurama's Photo catch was closed, every thing gone from his threads......... its tragic

[Wesley J]

Originally Posted by K2m

I have taken in everything you have said on the anodised caliper.

Unfortunately being a 4 piston design these are very difficult to remove the pistons with compressed air. It can be pulled apart, but I am reticent to do so as I just do not know the consequences of doing so. The manufacturer has used Torqux head bolts which usually means "Do not open". If I lived in the USA it would not bother me. These brakes are the best in the world, and well worth the 1000 bucks.......... So......... I would put new engine cases on my motor without blinking, but I'm scared to touch this calliper.......

I'll sand it with Wet & Dry 1200, and mask up as you cannot see the inside of this calliper. I have an idea to stop the fluid from leaking onto the job during heating (I usually let it dry a few days before putting it in the oven......... A lot less smell in the kitchen..... open the windows, put a fan on.)

Kip .....thank you for taking the time to answer my post

Not to be a heretic, but why wouldnt you just pull it apart, mask them off and blast them with fine glass bead. These are pretty low tech parts. Guaranteed you'll just have an o-ring face seal on either end. Once you have them apart you should be able to pull the pistons by hand or with air pressure and a couple of fingers to plug fluid passages.

Another trick that I've used is to put a block of wood in between the pistons, hit it with air, the pistons (normally) come out a relatively equal distance once they start contacting the the wood. Then you can just grab them and pull them out.

Oh, an 1200 is way too fine for paint to stick to well. 600 should be as fine as you go. It provides good bite and is fine enough for the most delicate finishes (high end automotive eurothane clears).

My $0.02 CND

Wesley J