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Old 07-03-2012, 01:50 AM   #76
Padmei OP
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Location: Nelson New Zealand
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Voltaire View Post
Oh no.....your not self employed are you?
I was for a few years and its taken ages to get IRD of my case...
Well i'm actually employed by hundreds. That means trying to please hundreds of bosses to get my weekly wage.
IRD have been really good to me - always pleasant to deal with & are pretty fair.
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Old 07-04-2012, 09:31 PM   #77
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Update. Dropped my cylinders & pistons down at the local mechs for a measure up. I'll find out next week if they're ok.
The block is a different story tho.
When I looked at the helicoil for the top stud I was concerned that it was restricting the oil gallery that pumps oil onto the thread of the stud, down the stud to the rocker gear. The mech suggested if it was standing proud due to it unscrewing when I was undoing the nut on top of the rocker.
I then double nutted it & screwed it back in to see if it would indeed clear the oil passage. Unfortunately as it screwed back in it cut away all the ali holding it & I stopped before it went right thru the case.



The oil gallery is seen here



Helicoiled stud with piece of nicely stripped ali thread



About a 12.5mm hole for the original helicoil I guess

.

Anyway long story short, the mech told me to take it to an engineer to have a looksie at. the engineer agreed with the mech that there is not enough meat left on the inside edge to drill out another helicoil & filling & redrilling the hole would be a real PITA.
So as it stands the case may be past it unless I either... minute metal the helicoil in position & have the stud nut tightened very loosely or not bother about tightening it at all- what could possibly happen???

Forks will cost $100-120 to straighten & the wheel wil cost approx the same.
I'll wait & see what the pistons etc are like.

Fun aye?
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Old 07-04-2012, 10:50 PM   #78
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Padmei View Post
The block is a different story tho.
When I looked at the helicoil for the top stud I was concerned that it was restricting the oil gallery that pumps oil onto the thread of the stud, down the stud to the rocker gear. The mech suggested if it was standing proud due to it unscrewing when I was undoing the nut on top of the rocker.

I then double nutted it & screwed it back in to see if it would indeed clear the oil passage. Unfortunately as it screwed back in it cut away all the ali

About a 12.5mm hole for the original helicoil I guess

Anyway long story short, the mech told me to take it to an engineer to have a looksie at. the engineer agreed with the mech that there is not enough meat left on the inside edge to drill out another helicoil & filling & redrilling the hole would be a real PITA.

So as it stands the case may be past it unless
Fun time with Helicoils. Same issues I had with Gus's gearbox. I'm likely to replace that case.
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Old 07-05-2012, 02:51 AM   #79
innathyzit
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Thats not a helicoil, it is a thread insert. e.g. solid and not like a spring.

You could possibly use a helicoil that is suitable for a half inch thread which should give you a wee bit more o.d. You will then need to get a stud made to suit though.

Edit, just had a closer look and it is close aye. good luck.
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Old 07-13-2012, 11:04 PM   #80
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Being a very wet day I went into the workshop & played with my toys.

I poked the stud thru the stud hole into the case. I threaded a nut onto the stud & slid the barrel & head on to have a look.
As you can see it is a nuts width short this way.



The stud is 250 long & so a replacement one would need to be a minimum of 265mm



Someone has suggested using a diffferent setup & i think it would be pretty easy to sort something out. When looking at the basicness of the engine I actually scoffed at myself for over thinking the solution.

Here's the R65 barrels & pistons back ready for rings & refitting

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Old 07-13-2012, 11:35 PM   #81
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Here's the followers out of Berlina. You can see how I was surprised at the 80 & 100s ones.



Here's the big slugs I was talking about.







The jugs look to be 80's biggened up. You may be able to see the 80 & B on the bottom of the barrels





here you can see the difference in physical size between the 65s & 80/100s. Quite noticeable really.



I turned my back for a moment to get something & heard a starnge metallic mumoring... This may sound stupid but I distinctly heard the words "world domination" clear as a bell.




Out of the corner of my eye I was sure I caught a flash of movement but put it down to a reflection off the window



I turned back but it was too late, they were on to me before I could climb up on top of the welder



Noooo not the face, stay away from the faaaaace......



Naaaaarggghhhhhh...mmmph


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Old 07-14-2012, 12:08 AM   #82
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Why have you got a salad fork hanging on your tool wall?

You loon
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Old 07-14-2012, 12:17 AM   #83
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Damn I could have used that against them.... I woke up & saw them heading down to the Wood muttering about getting reinforcements...
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Old 07-14-2012, 03:27 AM   #84
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Tell them to come up to Jaffa land...they will be safe here...... Mmmmmmwahhhaaaa....mwahhhahaaaaaaa.

VW aircooled engines used to pull studs and you could get inserts for them. Case savers they are called.

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Old 07-14-2012, 04:54 AM   #85
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Originally Posted by Padmei View Post
Damn I could have used that against them.... I woke up & saw them heading down to the Wood muttering about getting reinforcements...
Hopefully they breed, and you end up with lots of short stroke, big bore, goodness.
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Old 07-14-2012, 10:54 PM   #86
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If I've got heaps of gunk under the clutch carrier, then I take it replacing one of these is required? Putting in an order at motobins this evening.
http://www.motobins.co.uk/bmw-parts.php?model=R Series 2 valve Twin


Edit: bugger i was hoping it would show part no. 40105 in engine parts=> crank seals => rear
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Old 07-14-2012, 11:02 PM   #87
Box'a'bits
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Padmei View Post
If I've got heaps of gunk under the clutch carrier, then I take it replacing one of these is required? Putting in an order at motobins this evening.
http://www.motobins.co.uk/bmw-parts.php?model=R Series 2 valve Twin


Edit: bugger i was hoping it would show part no. 40105 in engine parts=> crank seals => rear
Possibly. How 'wet' did it look. If it was the clutch carrier side it would be. If it was the transmission side then the trans input seal. If it was dusty, could be the clutch breaking up.
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Old 07-14-2012, 11:03 PM   #88
Padmei OP
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For later reference

Hey Padmei, here is a photo of the tierod nut I was talking about.
Shank OD 13.9mm Hexhead size 19mm internal thread 10mm
You may need to shorten up the round shank to the depth of the block.
You may want to cut half the hexhead off down to 5mm as its not all required in this case
You will have to make sure the stripped thread diameter goes right through the block
You will be able to use the original Barrel / head stud
You will have to use a dremel / grinder to cut a grove in the last 5mm of the shank to accommadate the oil gallery
You will have to use a dremel / grinder to cut a 1/4 moon in the side of the hex head so that the barrel will still fit in and
You will have to Loctite Plastic Metal it into position so that the oil grove and the cut away for the barrel stay in the correct position and stop any leakage of oil pressure back into the sump around the unmachined surface on the inside of the block.
Just my thoughts on a KIWI # 8 wire solution so that you dont have to replace the block.
I will post the part # tomorrow and where you can buy one.

Cheers GSers.



Actually now that you mention it I'm sure I have used something like those but with a flat head rather than a hex head for hanging fixtures off threaded rod. I think Ramset woud have something handy & the rep owes me a few favours.
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Old 07-14-2012, 11:04 PM   #89
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Possibly. How 'wet' did it look. If it was the clutch carrier side it would be. If it was the transmission side then the trans input seal. If it was dusty, could be the clutch breaking up.
Yeah pretty wettish. I'll double check the gearbox to make sure but in the meantime I may as well get a spare.
They are the correct things to buy tho aye?
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Old 07-15-2012, 01:19 AM   #90
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I have the scraper type (black) rather than the garter type. Still waiting to be installed on the RS. Normally you'd do the oil pump o'ring at the same time.
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