Berlina - Page 7

NordieBoy · 07-15-2012, 01:54 AM

Hey!
There's an DR650 and 2 XR250 barrels missing from the emporium

Also a hole in the shed door that looks like it was made from the inside?

clintnz · 07-16-2012, 01:28 PM

Remind me to avoid rainy weekends in Nelson - NADS stuck in their sheds seems to be a recipe for all the weirdness to out.

Clint

Padmei · 07-17-2012, 01:30 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by clintnz

Remind me to avoid rainy weekends in Nelson - NADS stuck in their sheds seems to be a recipe for all the weirdness to out.

Clint

We would say that perhaps we're the sane ones

Padmei · 07-17-2012, 01:31 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by NordieBoy

Hey!
There's an DR650 and 2 XR250 barrels missing from the emporium

Also a hole in the shed door that looks like it was made from the inside?

I saw them at the on ramp of the Deviation - talking about their european brethren..

NordieBoy · 07-17-2012, 02:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Padmei

I saw them at the on ramp of the Deviation - talking about their european brethren..

The Deviation has an on ramp?

Cool.

Padmei · 07-21-2012, 03:16 PM

I received from GSers a tierod nut which was greatly appreciated. When I saw it it clicked something in the back of my mind. I remembered using a furniture nut to put together some cheap Mitre 10 chairs. While searching for it I came across a rib nut in the same jar. These crimp down upon themselves when compressed & secure themselves into the cavity. i managed to purchase a couple.
Left to right Ribnuts, furniture nut, & GSERS tierod nut.

The tierod nut would require drilling quite a bit more out of the hole. Luckily the ribnuts are slimmer & only required the rear of the hole to be opened up.

Here's what's needed. I had to cut one of the ribnuts in half to make a spacer that would fit inside the hole to hold the ribnut.

I slid the nut infrom the inside of the case.

Ran the bolt & spacer in from the front & secured behind with a nut & washer.

By tightening the bolt the ribnut squished up inside the hole. Unfortunately I realised I was tightening from the wrong side as it began pulling back inside the case. I tapped back in with a drift & gave it a bit more from the inside. It stuck really well.

Now the original stud will have a thread albeit it splays out a bit. i just have to secure the stud inside the thread. I tried blue locktite but it didn't seem to work too well. I may try something stronger or failing that pick up a longer stud & put a slim nut on the inside.
All in all I'm pretty pleased with the result. I've got some rings & gaskets coming soon so will be able to button it up again.

Padmei · 07-21-2012, 03:24 PM

Buoyed with my success I turned my attention to the frame. More specifically swapping the engine mounts/kick stand mounts over from the old twin shock frame to the mono frame.
Did some measuring

Got the grinder out & carefully ground the old mount off making sure not to damage the good frame. Then I cut the old frame & carefully cut the old mount off.

Cleaned the frame up & repositioned

I then threw the frame in the car as I will get my professional welder mates to do this one - I don't want the engine falling on the road.

I found the header pipes & ground off the balance pipes that were already blanked off.

I will get some panel steel to patch the holes with.

Pete-NZ · 07-27-2012, 12:53 AM

Why don't yer re-power that tiny little BMW with some thing like this..
http://i1179.photobucket.com/albums/...l/DSC06060.jpg

Padmei · 07-27-2012, 01:20 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Pete-NZ

Why don't yer re-power that tiny little BMW with some thing like this..
http://i1179.photobucket.com/albums/...l/DSC06060.jpg

Now yo're talking. I can't see it properly but is that a porsche motor? All I can see is a weird looking manifold????

Berlina is going to be the fastest Airhead in my street.

Wait - Guzzis aren't airheads are they???
Are they

Padmei · 07-31-2012, 01:23 AM

Hi all
A quick dum question. I have cleaned up all the oily crap from the rear of the engine. am ready to pull off the rear seal. I have a seal however not the oring for the oil pump. I take it the only oring that needs replacing is the one on the back cover of the oil pump. In my case it is orange.
I was going to try to get a oring locally rather than getting one from os.Are orings measured with ID or OD?

Is there an oring under the rear engine seal that needs replacing as well or is the oring others talk of the oil pump one. Unfortunately I haven't seen a good diagram looking at the rear of the engine.

I took my jugs etc to my local shop to use their blaster - unfortunately it sucks & wouldn't even lift mud off. Oh well rough & ready it will be.They have got a shipment of bikes over from the States & among them is something quite extraordinary. I will wait for a sunny day & get some shots of it - it isn't a Beemer but something gorgeous.

Hope your week is going well 7 you are enjoying the olympics as much as myself.

Box'a'bits · 07-31-2012, 02:13 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Padmei

Hi all
A quick question. Am ready to pull off the rear seal. I have a seal however not the oring for the oil pump. I take it the only oring that needs replacing is the one on the back cover of the oil pump. In my case it is orange.
I was going to try to get a oring locally rather than getting one from os.Are orings measured with ID or OD?

Is there an oring under the rear engine seal that needs replacing as well or is the oring others talk of the oil pump one.

Inside the guide ring there is a seal that sits in a groove in the guide ring, and around the crank. On Gus, this was orange. Then there is the main seal that rides on the outside of the guide ring.

The oil pump seal is usually replaced at the same time, simply because its a pain to pull the the clutch carrier, & if you are doing the main seal you might as well...

Voltaire · 07-31-2012, 02:19 AM

Who do you get bits from in OZ? does it work out better than Motobins or just easier/quicker?

Padmei · 07-31-2012, 12:49 PM

Thanks Nutso. I did see the parts fische but couldn't really make it out that well. Is the seal something that needs replacing at the same time or not worry too much about it? I will do the oil pump oring as I have the cover off but didn't want to wait for another motobins order - I always buy too much when I'm on there.

As for parts in Oz V, I haven't bought any from there. I think maybe it would be the same as buying parts from a BMW dealer over here.

Box'a'bits · 07-31-2012, 10:51 PM

I'd replace it. That said, I missed getting this when I looked at replacing the main seal on the RS. That flywheel is on Gus now. Hopefully its not leaking (too much). This picture is of the guide ring & clutch carrier. The guide ring bolts to the clutch carrier & crank.

Once you get the guide ring off you could likely just take that assembly to a seals place & reasonably expect to get a new seal. That said, I find Motobins et al convenient.

Voltaire, I've never bought from Aus & won't at the moment due to the exchange rate.

Padmei · 07-31-2012, 11:47 PM

So it's called the flywheel oring? I saw them on Motobins.
I took my oil pump seal & cover to the local bearing shop. They said it is silicon and heat resistant & that's why it's orange. The quoted me $10 + for one whereas on motobins they are $3.50ish. I may need some more stuff from motobins so will wait for a while.

I checked out a BMW aussie shop - can't remember its name- ultimate or something similar & the prices are still cheaper in the UK.

I haven't found a good pictorial of replacing the rear seal so far so will keep looking tonite.

07-16-2012, 01:28 PM	#92
clintnz Trans-Global Chook Chaser Joined: May 2004 Location: Rotoiti, New Zealand Oddometer: 2,697	Remind me to avoid rainy weekends in Nelson - NADS stuck in their sheds seems to be a recipe for all the weirdness to out. Clint __________________ '03 KTM 640 LC4 Enduro The wilderness, the desert - why are they not crowded .................................................. .....with pilgrims?

07-21-2012, 03:24 PM	#97
Padmei ^OP enamoured Joined: Mar 2008 Location: Nelson New Zealand Oddometer: 2,489	Buoyed with my success I turned my attention to the frame. More specifically swapping the engine mounts/kick stand mounts over from the old twin shock frame to the mono frame. Did some measuring Got the grinder out & carefully ground the old mount off making sure not to damage the good frame. Then I cut the old frame & carefully cut the old mount off. Cleaned the frame up & repositioned I then threw the frame in the car as I will get my professional welder mates to do this one - I don't want the engine falling on the road. I found the header pipes & ground off the balance pipes that were already blanked off. I will get some panel steel to patch the holes with. Padmei screwed with this post 07-22-2012 at 12:55 AM

07-27-2012, 12:53 AM	#98
Pete-NZ Studly Adventurer Joined: May 2011 Oddometer: 508	Why don't yer re-power that tiny little BMW with some thing like this.. http://i1179.photobucket.com/albums/...l/DSC06060.jpg __________________ Here.... my XR250 leaner side car build http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=716993

07-31-2012, 10:51 PM	#104
Box'a'bits In need of repair Joined: Sep 2008 Location: Wellington, New Zealand Oddometer: 1,431	I'd replace it. That said, I missed getting this when I looked at replacing the main seal on the RS. That flywheel is on Gus now. Hopefully its not leaking (too much). This picture is of the guide ring & clutch carrier. The guide ring bolts to the clutch carrier & crank. Once you get the guide ring off you could likely just take that assembly to a seals place & reasonably expect to get a new seal. That said, I find Motobins et al convenient. Voltaire, I've never bought from Aus & won't at the moment due to the exchange rate. __________________ My '91 R100GS thread is here My Ride photos are here It's just better when there's twins involved....

Thread Tools	Search this Thread
Show Printable Version Email this Page	Search this Thread: .
Display Modes
Linear Mode Switch to Hybrid Mode Switch to Threaded Mode

07-15-2012, 01:54 AM	#91
NordieBoy Armature speller Joined: Dec 2006 Location: Kiwiland Oddometer: 6,771	Hey! There's an DR650 and 2 XR250 barrels missing from the emporium Also a hole in the shed door that looks like it was made from the inside?

07-21-2012, 03:16 PM	#96
Padmei ^OP enamoured Joined: Mar 2008 Location: Nelson New Zealand Oddometer: 2,489	I received from GSers a tierod nut which was greatly appreciated. When I saw it it clicked something in the back of my mind. I remembered using a furniture nut to put together some cheap Mitre 10 chairs. While searching for it I came across a rib nut in the same jar. These crimp down upon themselves when compressed & secure themselves into the cavity. i managed to purchase a couple. Left to right Ribnuts, furniture nut, & GSERS tierod nut. The tierod nut would require drilling quite a bit more out of the hole. Luckily the ribnuts are slimmer & only required the rear of the hole to be opened up. Here's what's needed. I had to cut one of the ribnuts in half to make a spacer that would fit inside the hole to hold the ribnut. I slid the nut infrom the inside of the case. Ran the bolt & spacer in from the front & secured behind with a nut & washer. By tightening the bolt the ribnut squished up inside the hole. Unfortunately I realised I was tightening from the wrong side as it began pulling back inside the case. I tapped back in with a drift & gave it a bit more from the inside. It stuck really well. Now the original stud will have a thread albeit it splays out a bit. i just have to secure the stud inside the thread. I tried blue locktite but it didn't seem to work too well. I may try something stronger or failing that pick up a longer stud & put a slim nut on the inside. All in all I'm pretty pleased with the result. I've got some rings & gaskets coming soon so will be able to button it up again.

07-31-2012, 01:23 AM	#100
Padmei ^OP enamoured Joined: Mar 2008 Location: Nelson New Zealand Oddometer: 2,489	Hi all A quick dum question. I have cleaned up all the oily crap from the rear of the engine. am ready to pull off the rear seal. I have a seal however not the oring for the oil pump. I take it the only oring that needs replacing is the one on the back cover of the oil pump. In my case it is orange. I was going to try to get a oring locally rather than getting one from os.Are orings measured with ID or OD? Is there an oring under the rear engine seal that needs replacing as well or is the oring others talk of the oil pump one. Unfortunately I haven't seen a good diagram looking at the rear of the engine. I took my jugs etc to my local shop to use their blaster - unfortunately it sucks & wouldn't even lift mud off. Oh well rough & ready it will be.They have got a shipment of bikes over from the States & among them is something quite extraordinary. I will wait for a sunny day & get some shots of it - it isn't a Beemer but something gorgeous. Hope your week is going well 7 you are enjoying the olympics as much as myself.

07-31-2012, 02:19 AM	#102
Voltaire Studly Adventurer Joined: Jun 2011 Location: New Zealand Oddometer: 718	Who do you get bits from in OZ? does it work out better than Motobins or just easier/quicker?

07-31-2012, 12:49 PM	#103
Padmei ^OP enamoured Joined: Mar 2008 Location: Nelson New Zealand Oddometer: 2,489	Thanks Nutso. I did see the parts fische but couldn't really make it out that well. Is the seal something that needs replacing at the same time or not worry too much about it? I will do the oil pump oring as I have the cover off but didn't want to wait for another motobins order - I always buy too much when I'm on there. As for parts in Oz V, I haven't bought any from there. I think maybe it would be the same as buying parts from a BMW dealer over here.

07-31-2012, 11:47 PM	#105
Padmei ^OP enamoured Joined: Mar 2008 Location: Nelson New Zealand Oddometer: 2,489	So it's called the flywheel oring? I saw them on Motobins. I took my oil pump seal & cover to the local bearing shop. They said it is silicon and heat resistant & that's why it's orange. The quoted me $10 + for one whereas on motobins they are $3.50ish. I may need some more stuff from motobins so will wait for a while. I checked out a BMW aussie shop - can't remember its name- ultimate or something similar & the prices are still cheaper in the UK. I haven't found a good pictorial of replacing the rear seal so far so will keep looking tonite.