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Old 07-21-2012, 02:52 PM   #46
Padmei
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Quote:
Originally Posted by innathyzit View Post
Sharpest pic I can put on here otherwise go to zanzani site.

The fairing tank and seat are all availaable off the shelf from various suppliers aat not too-oo bad of a price. All race ones though so a hole would have to be cut in the front for a light. That would be my ultimate, but am being realistic cos I just wanna get on and ride it now.

Where is the best place in Nelson area to get bits of aluminium, maybe offcuts so I can make rearsets?
Have a look at some stuntpegs for a BMX bike I'm prob gonna go down that path. As for Ali it's a hard one. The last times i've been to Ullrich I had to buy long lengths of ali as they got sick of selling bits & pieces to DIYers. I got some ali plate from Fabriweld in Vanguard St as I've done a bit of work there but I think I paid retail for it.
I think the best way would be to find someone who works for an engineering shop or talleys etc that deal with a lot of it & buy it from them.
The guys at Topliss engineering are pretty bike friendly so they may sell you some cheaper.
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Old 07-21-2012, 03:43 PM   #47
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Quote:
Originally Posted by innathyzit View Post
Where is the best place in Nelson area to get bits of aluminium, maybe offcuts so I can make rearsets?
Fabriweld, Bennets, Topliss...

Tell them what you're doing and Bennets and Topliss may be more helpful being bikers themselves.
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Old 07-28-2012, 02:15 AM   #48
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Oooooh, had a few hours in the shed today and made a bit of progress.

I picked up the head and barrell from the engine shop on Thursday, they refaced the valves and seats, honed the bore and took 3mm off the bottom of the barell.



Today I dummied the motor together to see if everything worked ok.



First problem was the crank hit the bottom of the sleeve, which was an easy fix with a dremmel, I then lapped the valves in which took more lapping than it should have.



All that lapping made me hungry so I whipped up a couple of bacon sndwiches and a coffee.


BTW horse radish sauce goes quite good on bacon sandwiches.

Then I cleaned everything up and started putting the head together but have lost a valve collet which I know was there not that long ago. anyway should be able to match summit up. Put the inlet vale in and dummied the head and rocker gear up, but there isn't enough adjustment in the tappets after the 3mm taken off the barrell, fortunately my hording abilities helped out and there was a box of 3mm alloy spacers (no really) in the magic draw.



That sorted and the only dilemma now is the rocker cover will not fit, because the rocker gear is 3mm higher. I will cut a spacer out of something or use some 3 or 4 mm thick rubber as the gasket.

More tomorrow
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Old 07-28-2012, 02:38 AM   #49
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Shit were you feeding the homeless in Richmond with all that bacon.

I know the ecstatic feeling of losing a collet - I was enjoying thagt last night. Remind me to show you the homemade valve spring compressor I will patent & sell millions of. no one would have thought of it before - it involves a big C clamp, plastic conduit, cut up handlebar, flexible plastic conduit, insulation tape. Frick me do those collets fly.

Luckily enough after about an hour I found a spare one in the paint drawer under the bench that was slightly open - cos I always keep one there for emergencies

Anyway your progress is good Grasshopper.
When you say you had to do more lapping, it wasn't just to build a bigger appetite was it? Did the valves not fit the seat that well. With my new valves all I would need to do would just give them a lite lapping aye?



Do you kinda go into a trance when you sit & rotate your engine in front of your eyes? It looks like something that revolves around in a 80s video game
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Old 07-28-2012, 03:02 AM   #50
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Valve spring compresser.... that what the make drill presses for...
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Old 07-28-2012, 04:25 AM   #51
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Padmei View Post
When you say you had to do more lapping, it wasn't just to build a bigger appetite was it? Did the valves not fit the seat that well. With my new valves all I would need to do would just give them a lite lapping aye?

Do you kinda go into a trance when you sit & rotate your engine in front of your eyes? It looks like something that revolves around in a 80s video game

The problem was that years ago when I had access to a valve refacer I machined 3 or 4 angles on the valve to increase flow which made for a very thin seating area. When i lapped them in there was an unlapped portion on the bottom of the seat especially on one side which needed relieving/porting till it seated in the right area.The exhaust valve was perfect. Have you got new new valves?, if so you really should get the valve seats done too. lapping? depends on how well its done



Quote:
Originally Posted by Padmei View Post
Do you kinda go into a trance when you sit & rotate your engine in front of your eyes? It looks like something that revolves around in a 80s video game
What were you smoking in the eighties?

innathyzit screwed with this post 08-03-2012 at 03:01 PM
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Old 07-28-2012, 01:03 PM   #52
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Quote:
Originally Posted by innathyzit View Post
The problem was that years ago when I had access to a valve refacer I machined 3 or 4 angles on the valve to increase flow which made for a very thin seating area. When i lapped them in there was an unlapped portion on the bottom seat especially on one side which needed relieving/porting till it seated in the right area.The exhaust valve was perfect. Have you got new new valves?, if so you really should get the valve seats done too. lapping? depends on how well its done

What were you smoking in the eighties?
This is getting to the interesting, I agree on 'lapping' the price is right but its not very good......is there much sideways play in the valve/guide with the head about 20mm out?
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Old 07-28-2012, 02:26 PM   #53
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This is getting to the interesting, I agree on 'lapping' the price is right but its not very good......is there much sideways play in the valve/guide with the head about 20mm out?
Guides are spot on on mine as i made new guides. Dunno about Padmeis, but generally speaking the more worn the valve guides are the easier the valve will lap in, which is not ideal.
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Old 07-28-2012, 03:06 PM   #54
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As I understand it & I may very well be wrong but the seats on the 81 heads very made of very hard material. So hard that the valves were damaged by valve recession but the seats generally were OK. My thinking is that if that is the case my new valves would be softer than the seat & a lapping would be all that is needed to make them mate better.
This is my first time (OK 2nd time but I did my fairmont ones in 1986 so that doesn;t count) so I'm still a noob.

As for the valve guides, well I'm sticking my head in the sand re those as the replacement / machining costs & buggering around are higher than what I want to spend getting Berlina on the road. Dum I know but I'm not comfortable going too far.They may be ok but unsure how to measure them - stick the ends of the verniers in them?

I take it if the valve guides are too loose the valvres move around too much or does air/mixture whatever get pushed thru them on the exhaust stroke pressurising the carnkcase?


Edit: Have I told you I love this shit before???

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Old 07-28-2012, 03:49 PM   #55
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My BMW guru did my heads, he relined the valve guides with K liners,and did a 3 angle valve job.We used the old valves as it was only a 'trial' engine to test the water....
He used to be an engine reconditioner so when he speaks I listen..... the guide provides a sleeve for the guide to go up and down in, we have all see cars smoking on deceleration thats worn inlet guides sucking oil in down the guide due to the low pressure in the engine.
Also....the guide is the medium other than the seat and the valve springs for the heat to be removed, if the guides on the exhaust are worn the heat can only exit via the seat...briefly and the valve retainer/collet/spring....ever seen burnt looking springs? thats why.
so if said valve cannot loose heat the head breaks off...
.....if only I could remember work stuff this well.....
On the R65 they use 7mm stems....which by some accounts break....can be easily changed to 8mm.....smaller stems does however give more area for gas to flow.
That should be enough " shit" to keep Padmei happy for a bit....
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Old 07-28-2012, 06:18 PM   #56
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Yup, what voltaire said, but I will hasten to add that worn guides do not allow the valve to snap shut as well wasting compression. K-liners are great and are made of bronze so handle unleaded fuel very well which the r65 probarbly was not made for. We never used to measure the guides in the engine shop, it was all done on feel. The guide will wear in line with the rocker so that is the way you should wiggle it to see where the wear is.Um what else? oh yeah the good thing about the bmw like the benelli is that the engines are flat and push rod so there isn't a hell of a lot of oil up there to drain down the guides like in a modern OHC engine where the guide seals are basically in an oil bath. The Benelli has no valve guide seals, does the BMW?
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Old 07-28-2012, 07:31 PM   #57
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Hmmm If I learn anymore I might end up getting paralysis by analysis.
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Old 08-02-2012, 02:00 AM   #58
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Just sharing some Benelli porn.

Couple of 950cc 6 cyl specials from a guy in Spain who makes them to order, either cafe'ed or race/trackday spec.

very lovely.

Some other guys cafe racer.


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Old 08-02-2012, 02:39 AM   #59
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Those Seis are beautiful.

This is engine looks familiar
http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=500476
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Old 08-02-2012, 01:45 PM   #60
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If I got a cafe racer, this would be it...
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