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Old 02-05-2015, 12:17 PM   #1
woodly1069 OP
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U-Joint replacement?

Hey guys while working on my 1978 R80/7 drive shaft I noticed that the u-joint is sticky and looks like it needs replacing. Only problem is that it is staked into the housing and evidently BMW doesn't sell just the u-joint. Maybe I am wrong but when I look I see the whole assembly and it is like $640 bucks ...
That's not going to happen so I am going to talk to my machinist and see if we can mill the flange and drive shaft so we can get the old one out. I would maybe like to mill an undercut so we can add a u-joint with circlips.
Does any of this make sense here and where should I go to look for a replacement? So that I don't have to wait to order a u-joint does anyone know the specs.? I do think I would like one with a Zerk fitting so that I can service the thing in the future...
Thanks for any input here!
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Old 02-05-2015, 12:56 PM   #2
Solo Lobo
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member HPMGuy replaces u-joint with a circlipped replaceable one...

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showt...ghlight=hpmguy

He only shows R100GS shafts on this thread, but he did my R80G/S that is not a paralever
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stagehand
your bike is suitably dirty. Well done.
R65LazaruS
So I sold my GS and went shopping for a G/S!
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Old 02-05-2015, 12:57 PM   #3
woodly1069 OP
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thanks Lobo
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Old 02-05-2015, 01:00 PM   #4
Solo Lobo
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Make sure to call HPMGuy, he's busy..

http://www.hendersenprecision.com/index.html

Driveshaft Rebuilding pre'88 BMW Models
Install new high quality German made ujoint held in with circlips. $170.00
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stagehand
your bike is suitably dirty. Well done.
R65LazaruS
So I sold my GS and went shopping for a G/S!
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Old 02-05-2015, 01:14 PM   #5
Prutser
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The "sticky" you mention would that be a notch in the middle position?
That would be something lots of them have and they can still do a few 100.000 km with that notch.

The replaceable u-joint bearings secured with a circlip can cause a reduction in wheel travel. (Which is important for the ones looking for more wheel travel than stock)
The washers welded onto the flange makes it wider which causes it to rub in the swing-arm sooner.
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Old 02-05-2015, 01:16 PM   #6
Big Bamboo
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FWIW; u-joints are "sticky" when brand new. Remember, these things do not pivot very far in use. Detaching it from the output flange and rocking it 90 degrees is not a good test. A worn one will feel loose and flop around under its own weight. That said, Brunos in Canada is my place to go for rebuilds.
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Old 02-05-2015, 03:27 PM   #7
ME 109
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Prutser View Post
The "sticky" you mention would that be a notch in the middle position?
That would be something lots of them have and they can still do a few 100.000 km with that notch.

The replaceable u-joint bearings secured with a circlip can cause a reduction in wheel travel. (Which is important for the ones looking for more wheel travel than stock)
The washers welded onto the flange makes it wider which causes it to rub in the swing-arm sooner.
Using a 46mm uni with 19mm o.d. washers will allow the washers to sit flush. I found the 19mm washers to be an excellent guide for getting the uni central. Not as quick to re-service as a circlip mod, but removing the washers is easy enough if they are not excessively welded.

The Hardie Spicer uni is double the price of 'others' so I won't use them again.
IMO, the difficult part of the operation is removing the 'stakes' neatly.
Having a mill to do that job would be ideal. Then it's a matter of holding the yolk securely.
Heaps cheaper than a new shaft, for sure.
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Old 02-06-2015, 04:53 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by _cy_ View Post
didn't know adding circlip to retain Ujoints would reduce wheel travel?
scratching my head on that one?
It makes sense to me. By adding the washers, the knuckle gets physically wider. Since the u-joint and the swing arm don't pivot at the same center of rotation, there is differential displacement going on. So it's possible that the wider knuckle can contact the ID of the swingarm sooner than a stock knuckle, when extended.
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Old 02-06-2015, 05:43 AM   #9
woodly1069 OP
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Yes Pruster this is exactly what I mean and I am one of those looking for more wheel travel I am in the process of extending the swing arm and drive shaft. This is when I found what I believed to be the issue with the u-joint. So, thank you very much for the information, I will happily put it back together and run the piss out of it

The advice I have received here on this forum is worth more than any of you could possibly know! THANKS TO ALL!!! I love ADV!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Prutser View Post
The "sticky" you mention would that be a notch in the middle position?
That would be something lots of them have and they can still do a few 100.000 km with that notch.

The replaceable u-joint bearings secured with a circlip can cause a reduction in wheel travel. (Which is important for the ones looking for more wheel travel than stock)
The washers welded onto the flange makes it wider which causes it to rub in the swing-arm sooner.
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Old 02-06-2015, 11:52 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CafeDude View Post
It makes sense to me. By adding the washers, the knuckle gets physically wider. Since the u-joint and the swing arm don't pivot at the same center of rotation, there is differential displacement going on. So it's possible that the wider knuckle can contact the ID of the swingarm sooner than a stock knuckle, when extended.
my bad .. I read it as two different sentences instead of one.

these pic's show Ujoints by Bruno's with circlip groove milled (notice stake marks) in which is what I was referring to and will NOT interfere with travel. HPM uses a thin washer that seems to be working fine too but will change travel interference as Pruser noted.

please note welded washers are suspected of causing early failure from heat toasting bearings. so if you go that route, be sure to pump full of grease after welding to make sure there is fresh grease before installing.





staked OEM Ujoint in new condition

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Old 02-06-2015, 12:26 PM   #11
ME 109
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Heat from welding will be a problem if there is too much welding.
The above washers have way too much welding imo.
Tig will give too much heat.
Ime, mig is the quickest way to weld, and results in way less heat, and can be cooled immediately after the 'tack' is done.
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Old 02-06-2015, 12:38 PM   #12
Solo Lobo
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Here's a shot of HPMGuy's work, on my R80G/S

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stagehand
your bike is suitably dirty. Well done.
R65LazaruS
So I sold my GS and went shopping for a G/S!
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Old 02-06-2015, 12:40 PM   #13
_cy_
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ME 109 View Post
Heat from welding will be a problem if there is too much welding.
The above washers have way too much welding imo.
Tig will give too much heat.
Ime, mig is the quickest way to weld, and results in way less heat, and can be cooled immediately after the 'tack' is done.
totally agree if Ujoints are installed before welding flush washers. but in pic above HPM Tig welds washer, then goes back to install Ujoints. advantage Ujoints are now completely replaceable with zero heat to new Ujoints.

here's a Russian field job that's lasted reasonably well

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Old 02-06-2015, 12:56 PM   #14
_cy_
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SOLO LOBO View Post
Here's a shot of HPMGuy's work, on my R80G/S
Solo .. do you have the extended final drive? if so does the HPM washers interfere with travel?

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Old 02-06-2015, 12:58 PM   #15
CafeDude
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I like that circlip technique, the one that doesn't require welding. 2 questions; how is the groove cut, on a mill? Do you need a special, shorter spider joint to fit between the circlips?
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