Improving the Airhead headlight.

[lkchris]

PIAA is not a reputable brand.

Get the Osram.

[Bill Harris]

Originally Posted by craydds

The Eastern Beaver relay systems are elegant, simple, and very tidy; really not too expensive. I made my own double-relay system, and it looks crude compared to Eastern's, but it works well. A fellow inmate observed that I could have bought the Eastern product for cheaper than my cost to build my own. An Eastern headlight relay system is pretty much "plug-n-play".

For sure. EasternBeaver gets a +10 in my book. The pre-fab kits are great and the individual componets are top-notch. I like puttering, so I made up my own relay systems using their components-- those Panasonic relays are nice.

The good thing about the headlight relay kits is not only do they minimize the voltage drop to the headlight, they also take the high-current switching load off of the headlight switch.

[Rucksta]

Bill

Just had a look at Eastern Beaver kits and they look the same right down to the type of relays.
Mine are rated at 20 amp and the wiring on the hot side is a little heavier.

$20.00 worth of components from an electronics shop plus a bit of what was lying around and it did take
me more than an hour to build so the $70.00 odd for the high end Eastern Beaver is good value if you
charge your own time but I like to tinker too.

Thie design does not require any modification to the existing wiring only additions.
In the even of failure remove and revert to original setup or move it from bike to bike.

An existing relay is not required as it plugs into where the bulb used to plug in.
You mentioned the system reduces current flow thru the handlebar switch .
Are there early models that did not use a relay?
Everything I've seen is post '81 and has a headlight relay under tank.

[boxerboy81]

Some good info in this thread. Thanks to all responders.

My short term solution has been to just replace the bulb with another H4. Just before starting this thread I had scored a cheap full headlight from ebay and it just happened to have a Trifa H4 in there. I've used it to replace the bung one, so, it'll stay there now 'til I sort out anything else. The EB stuff does looks too easy and reasonably priced, so that'll probably be my longer term option, when I get 'round to it, in the fullness of time, directly, sometime soon. Why sort it today, if I can put it off 'til tomorrow?

Here's a diy guide to add to the database of info re: headlight upgrades. http://www.ebbo.org/headlamp_relays.php

I have a headlight glass that's designed for riding on the wrong side of the road. If someone wants it, for postage cost, let me know. MaxBMW has them at USD51. It'd come from Oz, but our postage is generally pretty reasonable ime.

Originally Posted by lkchris

PIAA is not a reputable brand.

Not sure if that's tongue in cheek?

[R100LT]

I have a headlight glass that's designed for riding on the wrong side of the road. If someone wants it, for postage cost, let me know. MaxBMW has them at USD51. It'd come from Oz, but our postage is generally pretty reasonable ime.

Keep that for your " coming home from the pub " lens.

I know you have mentioned it ... but don't be afraid of coming over to the " Light Side " with HID. Been making my job of picking out Roo Road Kill so much easier .

[boxerboy81]

Thing is, I've got two "wrong sided" lens. One's available.

Most of my riding is urban, with the very occasional night riding in the country. If I'm on a countryside ride, the destination is usually reached by dusk, or just before.

As I see it, I want an improved headlight that's easy and cheap that doesn't mess around with the original set up too much.

[tdrrally]

Originally Posted by lkchris

PIAA is not a reputable brand.

Get the Osram.

i have used PIAA for years on rally and road racing cars, with no issues

[supershaft]

I have never been impressed with PIAA stuff that I have installed. Some of it is cheap crap IMO.

Some wiring harnesses have headlight wires that are too small. That and/or a couple of weak switches are the only thing that is going to reduce your voltage. I don't think straight to the battery is going to make that much difference if your system isn't toasted. I don't understand why you would want a relay to switch relays. Relays fail more than the switches in my experience. I use as few as possible. I have a switch on my lights with no relay because the switch is heavy enough to carry the load no problem. I have had that same switch on two different bikes for 25 years now.

[craydds]

Originally Posted by supershaft

I have a switch on my lights with no relay because the switch is heavy enough to carry the load no problem.

There are heavy duty switches designed to carry high current; most stock headlight switches are not. That is why they activate a relay and the relay carries the high amperage (I know I am not telling you anything you don't already know). And that is why we use a relay to activate a relay that draws current directly from the battery to the headlight. Whew! Too many relays. Yes, relays can fail, but mine have lasted many years with no problems.

[Bill Harris]

Originally Posted by Rucksta

$20.00 worth of components from an electronics shop plus a bit of what was lying around and it did take
me more than an hour to build so the $70.00 odd for the high end Eastern Beaver is good value if you
charge your own time but I like to tinker too.

It's $20 for the parts and $50 to hook them up correctly. For some, that is a good deal.

You mentioned the system reduces current flow thru the handlebar switch .
Are there early models that did not use a relay?
Everything I've seen is post '81 and has a headlight relay under tank.

AFAIK, all Airheads switch high beam-low beam through the handlebar switch. That undertank relay switches the "always-on" headlight on and off when the engine is started.

[batoutoflahonda]

Yo Bill, glad you mentionrd this. I am planning on a Baja Designs race light with a H4 Hi/Low bulb and fluted lens conversion from the venders. I didn't even think about the switch being load carrying.