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06-10-2012, 11:15 AM
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#16 |
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Adventurer
Joined: Sep 2011
Location: L.A. (Lower Alabama)
Oddometer: 14
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Where can one find the information on how to properly set up the ATE calipers?
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06-10-2012, 11:46 AM
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#17 |
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Studly Adventurer
Joined: Jun 2011
Location: New Zealand
Oddometer: 720
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I agree with you two. I race an R90 and bought a Brembo front end with brakes because I was under the impression the ATEs were rubbish.
I rebuilt the dual 40mm ATE's, had a second leg modified to take the scond, 13mm M/C, cast iron discs, stainless lines and new pads. I really like them and they work well, to the extent I passed on the Brembos to an inmate. Brembos are of course better as you would expect but that does not mean the earlier ones are no good. I rode an R75/5 with a sidecar around Europe in the early 90's with drum brakes and the sidecar one disconnected....worked fine....thankfully there was no internet at the time as the frame was apparently not up to a sidecar.... ![]() So can we put the tiresome rubbishing of ATE's to bed as its getting boring. |
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06-10-2012, 11:56 AM
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#18 | |
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because I can
Joined: Sep 2010
Location: San Francisco Bay area
Oddometer: 6,087
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Quote:
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06-10-2012, 12:41 PM
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#19 | |
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because I can
Joined: Sep 2010
Location: San Francisco Bay area
Oddometer: 6,087
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Quote:
That's fine and dandy but don't go off with a bunch of BS about how ATE's are as good as Brembo's. Or, for that matter, what I think or how I don't know how to adjust ATE's. I think I know how to adjust ATE's better than most and I know that I can use them better than most. Sure, they are fine as long as you don't expect more than they can deliver. If you do, you need better brakes. Rubbish? It's you guys that are putting me into the position of defending myself against what I am told I feel and think and accusations that if ATE's don't work well you don't know how to adjust them. That is hilarious! Take your blinders off! I am glad they work good for you Voltaire. I NEVER said they don't unless you want to compare them to better brakes but it sounds like you guys don't need better brakes. Good for you. Now get off the rest of our backs and let's discuss braking. |
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06-10-2012, 01:04 PM
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#20 | |
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Studly Adventurer
Joined: Jun 2011
Location: New Zealand
Oddometer: 720
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Quote:
If you want better brakes buy a bike with better brakes, the pre 81's are what they are, but can be improved on. I have a Commando and the Lockheed on that is really average...but would I fit an Brembo or aftermarket floating disc and 4 pot calipers that are available for them......no because that is not what classic bikes are about to me. I'm guessing you have never ridden a bike with sorted ATE's, if your ever in NZ I'll organize you a day at Pukekohe with its mile back straight leading into a 2nd gear hairpin and you can have a go.....surprises quite a few modern bike riders.... |
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06-10-2012, 01:08 PM
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#21 |
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because I can
Joined: Sep 2010
Location: San Francisco Bay area
Oddometer: 6,087
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06-10-2012, 01:23 PM
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#22 | |
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because I can
Joined: Sep 2010
Location: San Francisco Bay area
Oddometer: 6,087
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Quote:
2nd gear with a standard tranny? It would probably be a first gear turn with my close ratio gearset? Which, by the way, I think really helps hard braking for the gears being closer together while you are downshifting. Less chance of wheel hop and chatter while you are going down through the gears. I had done literally hundreds of race track laps by the time I was in sixth grade. TT and MX but still. I know about late braking. No one is saying? Wirespokes is this time. You did last time. If no one is saying? Why are you guys going on about RoS and I talking about the obvious? Let us get on with it. supershaft screwed with this post 06-10-2012 at 01:39 PM |
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06-10-2012, 01:54 PM
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#23 |
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BigBrowedNeandereer
Joined: Apr 2009
Location: Spokaloo
Oddometer: 1,004
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06-10-2012, 02:01 PM
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#24 |
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BigBrowedNeandereer
Joined: Apr 2009
Location: Spokaloo
Oddometer: 1,004
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06-10-2012, 02:16 PM
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#25 | ||
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Studly Adventurer
Joined: Jun 2011
Location: New Zealand
Oddometer: 720
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Quote:
Why Google it when we have an expert in da house?...Google will only send you back here... Quote:
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06-10-2012, 02:18 PM
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#26 |
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Adventurer
Joined: Sep 2011
Location: L.A. (Lower Alabama)
Oddometer: 14
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Where can one find the information on how to properly set up the ATE calipers?
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06-10-2012, 02:53 PM
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#27 |
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because I can
Joined: Sep 2010
Location: San Francisco Bay area
Oddometer: 6,087
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1977 BMW R80/7 part 5 ATE brakes. Keep in mind my earlier advice.
supershaft screwed with this post 06-10-2012 at 03:04 PM |
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06-10-2012, 08:46 PM
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#28 |
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Beemerholics Anonymous
Joined: Jul 2002
Location: Jackson's Bottom Oregon
Oddometer: 7,361
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I've looked for a reference on adjusting the ATEs, but didn't find anything right off. So I'll say a few words about them.
The manual says to draw lines across the disc with a magic marker, apply the brake and see where the lines got swiped. Adjust again, apply the brake, etc etc etc. Not very workable. At least I couldn't get anywhere with that method. First off, you do know the caliper is attached to the slider by way of a cam-action axle? Remove the large cap nut underneath the 'wing' and you'll find the axle - it's got a threaded hole in the center with slots on each side. Twist this axle and you'll see the caliper move about. First off, it can be made to work in two places on the disc - the outer edge or the inner. You want the outer since there's more leverage there. While holding the brake lever, gently squeeze while turning the caliper axle. If the pad isn't sitting flat against the disc, you'll feel it. Adjust to the point where it's equally hard turning the axle clockwise or counter clockwise. That's about all there is to adjusting the ATEs. Thanks SuperShaft for clearing this up and letting us know you don't consider the ATEs crap. I must have read you wrong before.
__________________
Wanted: Dead, smashed, crashed or trashed gauges BMW GAUGE REPAIRS - TACH*SPEEDO*CLOCK*VOLT METER *PODs & LIGHT BOARD* |
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06-10-2012, 09:16 PM
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#29 |
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because I can
Joined: Sep 2010
Location: San Francisco Bay area
Oddometer: 6,087
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Funny. When I googled it I had tons of sites show up including the one a suggested he look at.
IMO, the more worn the pads are the more iffy the adjustment becomes. IMO, your method Ws gets you in the ball park. Using magic marker on the inside of the rotors lets you know just where you are at. I agree with you about favoring the outside or the rotor. I shoot for the middle but always favor the outside. You very often have to guesstimate your position for the pads not coming close to touching the whole rotor. If you are getting down to fine hairs, there is rarely a solid answer as to where to leave the pivot. It's a convoluted design. But they can work decently by '70's standards! If you get what you report me thinking and feeling from reading my posts without conscientiously adding lib, yes you are reading them wrong. It might help sticking with the words I use? But why even go there? If all us wasted forum space second guessing feelings and what inmates are thinking this forum would be pure crap versus occasionally dragged through it. |
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06-11-2012, 02:38 PM
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#30 |
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Wacky Bongo Boy
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Dag nabbit.. Did I log onto the supershaft forums again?
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1974 BMW R75/6, 1974 BMW R90/6, 1969 BMW R60/2 hack, 1929 Ford Model A, Metal casting, Part 2/Part 1 among others.. |
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