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Old 05-31-2005, 09:56 AM   #76
Arch
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Adjust the chain to it's recommended slack with the suspension compressed. It's no more difficult a task than on any other long travel dirtbike. Takes me a couple of minutes, grey hair and all.
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Old 05-31-2005, 10:15 AM   #77
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Arch,

IIRC, on my model (SMC) the manual said that the chain must be adjusted with the suspension fully unloaded to the point where the bike is raised in the air. I may have remembered that wrongly, but it seems that there is a lot of variety among these machines.
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Old 05-31-2005, 10:38 AM   #78
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Originally Posted by slide
Arch,

IIRC, on my model (SMC) the manual said that the chain must be adjusted with the suspension fully unloaded to the point where the bike is raised in the air. I may have remembered that wrongly, but it seems that there is a lot of variety among these machines.
my 03 640a is uncompressed too i believe. dunno why they would add compressed in there when they can spec it for un...
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Old 05-31-2005, 10:44 AM   #79
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Yea, slide, they all have that sticky mentioning checking for 8-10mm (or something like that) between the chain & the swingarm just aft of the slider while unloaded. It's goofy. Just drape yourself over the bike's seat and pull against the swingarm to sack the suspension (some guys use a tie-down to cinch down the rear). Check the slack on the lower run of the chain by pulling up & down on it with your free hand. You're looking at total chain slack here, just like on any other dirtbike, not any measurements to the swingwarm & such. Shoot for an inch or so and you're done.
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Old 05-31-2005, 11:05 AM   #80
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still sounds like more work than just pushing up on the chain with one finger... i think i'll stick with the factory rec. unless you have some good reason arch.
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Old 05-31-2005, 11:31 AM   #81
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Your chain tightens with suspension stroke and it's more important to pay attention to how much slack the chain has when it's at its tightest. It works and it's easy to check, but other than that, nope, I don't have any good reasons for you, MP.
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Old 05-31-2005, 01:13 PM   #82
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OK, you two got me curious. I'm going to set the catenary by the book (bike raised in the air) and then check with it fully loaded (me draped over the seat) to see what the diff is.
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Old 05-31-2005, 01:36 PM   #83
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Originally Posted by slide
OK, you two got me curious. I'm going to set the catenary by the book (bike raised in the air) and then check with it fully loaded (me draped over the seat) to see what the diff is.
I took a walk at lunch and a little bird whispered this in my ear:

"The tightest point on any motorcycle chain is when a straight line can be drawn thru both sprocket centers and the swingarm pivot shaft. With a force of approximately 10 pounds applied to the chain at a point equidistant from the sprocket centers, chain slack should be 1/2" to 5/8" for ANY chain. This alignment point can be obtained by using tie downs to compress the rear suspension. After a chain is adjusted using this method, it will be confirmed correct when checked against the manufacturers method of adjustment."

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meat popsicle screwed with this post 06-03-2009 at 06:12 AM Reason: fixing formatting crap from site rebuild
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Old 05-31-2005, 02:59 PM   #84
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OK, bird, why does there need to be any slack at the longest throw? I thought slack at point X was there so the chain was at zero or close to zero slack at the three element alignment (witching?) point.
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Old 05-31-2005, 03:01 PM   #85
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Thank you SO much!!!

GREAT description!!!!!
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Old 05-31-2005, 03:34 PM   #86
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Quote:
Originally Posted by slide
OK, bird, why does there need to be any slack at the longest throw? I thought slack at point X was there so the chain was at zero or close to zero slack at the three element alignment (witching?) point.
Well I hate to put words in the bird's beak but I could give you my interpretation.

I think what the bird was trying to impart is the chain is tightest when all three are aligned (cackle) as you percieved. So if one were to set the slack to zero at full compression or when resting the chain would tighten as the swingarm moved thru the point when the three elements are aligned. This would stretch the chain and decrease its lifespan. I suppose it is possible the tension could exceed the chain strength and break the chain if the swingarm were long enough!

Therefore to set the chain at the maximum tension axiom stipulated by the birdy you must have these three aligned. Then birdy goes on to state the mfgs have accounted for this and given us an adjusted tension specification for our specific bike that does not require us to compress the rear shock - nice!

The birdy managed to scratch this diagram in the dirt for me to ponder:


Did I get it right?
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Old 05-31-2005, 06:02 PM   #87
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More fud fer taught:

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showp...6&postcount=11

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Old 05-31-2005, 10:10 PM   #88
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Originally Posted by davewrit
Thank you SO much!!!

GREAT description!!!!!
i'll assume by "you" you meant the bird... I'm just the messenger (so don't shoot!).

glad that's over and we can move on...
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Old 06-01-2005, 03:02 PM   #89
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I'm still not with it, but don't want to bug the bird any more. THanks for the diagram.
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Old 06-01-2005, 03:31 PM   #90
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Quote:
Originally Posted by slide
I'm still not with it, but don't want to bug the bird any more. THanks for the diagram.


I am such a failure! The bird is going to scoff at me...

Hope you understand the chain is tightest at the alignment point; and if you tension it to the max spec at any other point (up or down) you be above that spec every time it swings through the alignment point...

Well the bird did mention this as I walked by on my way home yesterday:

"Free play changes as, among other things the temperature of parts change.
The minimal play is required to compensate for expansion and contraction, and to maintain a layer of lubrication between the chains moving parts.
In addition, transmission and wheel bearings would not survive in a "zero" clearance environment for very long."

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