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Old 07-13-2012, 08:53 AM   #31
mattsz OP
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Hey Bill-

Attached schematic? Should I be seeing some kind of image or link in your post?
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Old 07-13-2012, 12:04 PM   #32
Bill Harris
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Oh my, that link fizzled didn't it. Let me dig and fix...
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Old 07-13-2012, 12:17 PM   #33
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Bill-

Interestingly, the email that came to alert me of your post *did* have the working link. Huh.

Anyway, I see that this schematic is a different carb then mine. And further exploration of the site doesn't reveal a similar schematic for my carb. BUT, the inventory does list parts by name, so I think I can figure it out. I should probably rebuild the carbs anyway, since they're old but not used much (15K miles worth). Maybe next winter - the bike's running fine, getting normal mileage, so I'm told, and the pinging only happens on the very steepest of hills. I don't hear it under "normal" riding conditions...
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Old 07-13-2012, 12:36 PM   #34
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A 1975 R60/6 ought to have a slide valve (non-CV) carb. Check my post #30, which is corrected.
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Old 07-13-2012, 01:09 PM   #35
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Watery Transmission Oil

Uh-oh. Checking my transmission oil before a ride day tomorrow, and found it milky - water getting in, as I understand it. I've been wanting to change the oil anyway - I haven't done it since I got the bike. Previous owner say he changed it recently, but better safe than sorry.

I haven't ridden it in the rain, at all, but it has sat parked in a few showers. Nothing I'd call a real water event, though. I'd like to prevent this happening; where should I look for leaks, other than the speedo cable boot?

I'm gonna just change the oil, but should I be thinking about flushing the transmission? Don't really know how I would anyway, other than changing the oil, running it, then changing it again...

mattsz screwed with this post 07-13-2012 at 01:38 PM
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Old 07-13-2012, 01:47 PM   #36
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Most likely the boot where the speedometer cable enters the transmission has a crack or split and water dribbles in from rain. Check and replace often.

Change the oil, ride, change again.
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Old 07-13-2012, 02:47 PM   #37
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The boot isn't visibly cracked or split. I'll seal it anyway. If it isn't the boot, what else might it be? FYI, the oil in the driveshaft housing and final drive is clear.

I've just changed the oil - how long should I ride before changing again? Should I change it the second time before I take a long ride (150 miles) tomorrow morning, or can I do it after?
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Old 07-17-2012, 10:54 AM   #38
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While we're on the subject of gear oil, I just found a page at Bench Mark Works regarding gear oil:

http://www.benchmarkworks.com/articl...h/gearoil.html

It is a stern warning against using GL-5 grade gear oil in pre-1992 BMW bikes:

"GL-5 grade gear oil contains sulphur compounds that attack brass and bronze. BMW transmissions and final drives made before 1992 contain bushings and thrust washers made of these metals. Any brand of gear oil that is GL-5 rated will attack bushings and thrust washers."

Any thoughts on this? If it's true, why did the parts department at MAX BMW in New Hampshire sell me BMW branded GL-5 gear oil for my '75 bike?


And... over at bmwmotorcycletech.info, Snowbum says:

"Snowbum disagrees with his [Bench Mark Works'] remarks on not using GL5 oil."

What, oh what is a clueless newbie to think?!?

mattsz screwed with this post 07-17-2012 at 04:49 PM Reason: additional info added
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