ADVrider

Go Back   ADVrider > Bikes > Old's Cool > Airheads
User Name
Password
Register Inmates Photos Site Rules Search Today's Posts Mark Forums Read

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
Old 01-05-2013, 08:26 PM   #31
H96669
A proud pragmatist.
 
H96669's Avatar
 
Joined: Nov 2009
Location: Hiding off Hwy 6, B.C.
Oddometer: 4,283
I have been diluting mine with paint thinner, then apply with a paint brush.How else could I get into them nook & crannies. Lots of them under engines. Let dry for a couple days then buff with a dry bristle paint brush. Quick, easy.

Yep I have done some durability tests, with a whole bunch of chemicals and the propane torch. More coming under my K1200 Engine, I don't like detailing under there, I hope the RubnBuf works, if anything will protect the aluminium from road salts,oil and mud.

I'll find out in a couple years....

Thanks for the pics up there, I have some of my own but I wont bother, too many doubters on here that won't spend a few $$$ and try for themselves.

Probably better off keeping them tricks offline anyway, otherwise old parts will get a quick buff and a large price increase on Fleabay.
__________________
Have tools, will travel!
H96669 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-05-2013, 11:25 PM   #32
boxerboy81
Stay Horizontal
 
boxerboy81's Avatar
 
Joined: Jul 2009
Location: Melbourne, Oz
Oddometer: 2,073
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jon-Lars View Post
Just how deep are those grooves in your discs?
Too deep. Experimentation pieces only.

I've used the ebony stuff on the fork lowers and they did a job, but the surface still appeared pock marked. They ended up painted.

My conclusion is that it works best on bare metal,and like others have said, less is best. The discs in my pix earlier in the thread show two sides. The backside looks a better result where I did use a very small amount. The other side had too much used and did come up a little much like "too much makeup". Restraint is the key.

boxerboy81 screwed with this post 01-05-2013 at 11:45 PM
boxerboy81 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-07-2013, 09:14 AM   #33
Hookalatch
Born Under Bad Sign
 
Hookalatch's Avatar
 
Joined: Feb 2006
Location: Cottonwood, CA
Oddometer: 298
Quote:
Originally Posted by H96669 View Post
I have been diluting mine with paint thinner, then apply with a paint brush.How else could I get into them nook & crannies. Lots of them under engines. Let dry for a couple days then buff with a dry bristle paint brush. Quick, easy..
Any estimate of the ratio of thinner to paste?

Chuck
Hookalatch is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-07-2013, 04:45 PM   #34
H96669
A proud pragmatist.
 
H96669's Avatar
 
Joined: Nov 2009
Location: Hiding off Hwy 6, B.C.
Oddometer: 4,283
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hookalatch View Post
Any estimate of the ratio of thinner to paste?

Chuck
Not much, I eyeball everything. I'd say no more that 1 part thinner to 4 parts RnB. There are hints on thinning it down on their website, don't remember if they give a ratio.

Did the inside of my front cover, darn that thing was grotty and nothing cleaned it. Just dumped some RnB in there, a little thinner and went at it with the paint brush. A very small one for the nooks & crannies.
__________________
Have tools, will travel!
H96669 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-08-2013, 08:18 AM   #35
Paul_Rochdale
Gnarly Adventurer
 
Paul_Rochdale's Avatar
 
Joined: Sep 2012
Location: Aylesford, Kent, UK
Oddometer: 150
I bought a tube of 'Silver Leaf' off eBay having read about it here and am well impressed. I just tried a little test piece on the R100GS-PD swinging arm and it looks like new. A tiny bit fake I know but I can live with that. Better than the stained alloy IMO.
Paul_Rochdale is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-08-2013, 11:30 AM   #36
Rob Farmer
Beastly Adventurer
 
Rob Farmer's Avatar
 
Joined: Aug 2002
Location: Loughborough, Leicestershire. England
Oddometer: 4,950
I can't believe you guys are stripping things down and then not vapour blasting. It's the best finish out there. Looks a little bright when first done but soon settles to give an "As new" finish.

Heres one of my gearbox cases when fist blasted



It's a lovely finish.

Rob Farmer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-08-2013, 02:00 PM   #37
danedg
Horizontally Opposed
 
Joined: May 2008
Location: U-puku-ipi-sing
Oddometer: 6,112
vapour blasting ?

Dare I ask???
And what is fist blasted???
Remember you're talking to a bunch o Yanks over here!..




Quote:
Originally Posted by Rob Farmer View Post
I can't believe you guys are stripping things down and then not vapour blasting. It's the best finish out there. Looks a little bright when first done but soon settles to give an "As new" finish.

Heres one of my gearbox cases when fist blasted



It's a lovely finish.

danedg is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 01-08-2013, 02:31 PM   #38
Renner
combustophile
 
Renner's Avatar
 
Joined: Jul 2007
Location: sunny SoCal
Oddometer: 1,858
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rob Farmer View Post
... when first blasted


http://www.vaporblasting.biz/
__________________
"If you want to fix it with a rock, you have to stick to stone-age technology" -Anton
"...solving the latest crisis that is preventing my Airhead from taking me to the bar." -Beater-
Renner is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-08-2013, 02:45 PM   #39
Rob Farmer
Beastly Adventurer
 
Rob Farmer's Avatar
 
Joined: Aug 2002
Location: Loughborough, Leicestershire. England
Oddometer: 4,950
I'm on an iPhone here guys gimme a chance. It should have said first blasted. Like any cleaning process with aluminium thecsurface will oxidize and settle down over time. The surface seems a little too bright and shiny initially.
Rob Farmer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-08-2013, 03:05 PM   #40
Renner
combustophile
 
Renner's Avatar
 
Joined: Jul 2007
Location: sunny SoCal
Oddometer: 1,858
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rob Farmer View Post
Absolutely Fabulous

I don't know that I'm worthy of such a beaut.
__________________
"If you want to fix it with a rock, you have to stick to stone-age technology" -Anton
"...solving the latest crisis that is preventing my Airhead from taking me to the bar." -Beater-
Renner is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-08-2013, 03:48 PM   #41
rambozo
Gnarly Adventurer
 
rambozo's Avatar
 
Joined: Feb 2012
Location: N. Ireland
Oddometer: 360
Holy feck that's shiny

Looks great
rambozo is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-08-2013, 04:26 PM   #42
DiabloADV
Semi-Occasional
 
Joined: Oct 2010
Location: Nor Cal, USA
Oddometer: 2,174
I just got some hubs back from the vapor blasting guy. They were the usual corroded and oil-stained mess -- my bike was stored outside for 5 years, not running.

They look like new. Will post pics later.

I'm going to send him my motor and gearbox cases/covers after seeing how nice the hubs turned out.
__________________
1974 R90/6 w/1050 kit. Motor only. Seeking a frame.
1970 R60/5
1981 R80G/S Renovation under way. For sale Spring '14
'91 Bill Holland Steel w/Dura Ace

'01 Z3 3.0 Coupe. The Clownshoe.
DiabloADV is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-08-2013, 06:30 PM   #43
DiabloADV
Semi-Occasional
 
Joined: Oct 2010
Location: Nor Cal, USA
Oddometer: 2,174
R90/6 rear and Honda CR500R front...vapor blasted.



__________________
1974 R90/6 w/1050 kit. Motor only. Seeking a frame.
1970 R60/5
1981 R80G/S Renovation under way. For sale Spring '14
'91 Bill Holland Steel w/Dura Ace

'01 Z3 3.0 Coupe. The Clownshoe.
DiabloADV is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-08-2013, 07:12 PM   #44
jackd
Beastly Adventurer
 
Joined: Dec 2006
Location: North Cowichan
Oddometer: 2,889
Educate me on vapour blasting please. Is it not fine blast media, combined with air and water? Are you guys letting this stuff loose on your engine internal surfaces? Is there not the chance of having the blast media remain behind due to impregnation of the surface pores? To me it doesn't sound much better than regular media blasting, just less severe. Am I wrong?
jackd is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-08-2013, 07:44 PM   #45
DiabloADV
Semi-Occasional
 
Joined: Oct 2010
Location: Nor Cal, USA
Oddometer: 2,174
The key is that the abrasive material is suspended in water, and that makes a big difference in the finish and in how clean the final piece is. I've had parts glass bead-blasted and they are far rougher than these pieces. So rough, in fact, that I vowed to never do it again.

The metal on these feels burnished -- kind of slippery to the touch. There is no glass residue whatsoever.

http://www.vaporblastingequipment.co...asting-process

The guy that suggested I do this showed me a cylinder that had been vapor blasted and screwed to the outside wall of his machine shop for 3 years. It looked brand-new.

When I do my motor and gearbox cases, I'll take the usual extra care with making sure oil passages are clean, etc. But I didn't find evidence of a speck of abrasive on these two parts.
__________________
1974 R90/6 w/1050 kit. Motor only. Seeking a frame.
1970 R60/5
1981 R80G/S Renovation under way. For sale Spring '14
'91 Bill Holland Steel w/Dura Ace

'01 Z3 3.0 Coupe. The Clownshoe.
DiabloADV is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Share

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

.
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On

Forum Jump


Times are GMT -7.   It's 10:32 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.5
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright ADVrider 2011-2014