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Old 01-08-2013, 07:56 PM   #46
supershaft
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Glass beads come in different grades and the air pressure behind them can vary. Using beads that are too big or worn out and/or with too much air pressure is the problem there, not glass beads themselves.
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Old 01-08-2013, 08:50 PM   #47
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Originally Posted by DiabloADV View Post
The key is that the abrasive material is suspended in water, and that makes a big difference in the finish and in how clean the final piece is. I've had parts glass bead-blasted and they are far rougher than these pieces. So rough, in fact, that I vowed to never do it again.

The metal on these feels burnished -- kind of slippery to the touch. There is no glass residue whatsoever.

http://www.vaporblastingequipment.co...asting-process

The guy that suggested I do this showed me a cylinder that had been vapor blasted and screwed to the outside wall of his machine shop for 3 years. It looked brand-new.

When I do my motor and gearbox cases, I'll take the usual extra care with making sure oil passages are clean, etc. But I didn't find evidence of a speck of abrasive on these two parts.
Thanks for the explanation. I agree with you that you that probably the surface feels burnished but that doesn't mean that there isn't grit present in the pores. I have just finished reading about the process online and one of the sources did mention about there being residual media left behind at that very microscopic level. Sorry I can't quote it right now. I hope you're right that there's nothing left behind and this doesn't come back to bite everyone down the road.
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Old 01-08-2013, 09:03 PM   #48
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I hope you're right that there's nothing left behind and this doesn't come back to bite everyone down the road.
Well...no internal or bearing surfaces are blasted. Just the exterior. This process has been used for years, on thousands of bike and car parts. The go-to technique for restoration, if you're willing to spend the money.
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Old 01-08-2013, 09:16 PM   #49
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Originally Posted by jackd View Post
Thanks for the explanation. I agree with you that you that probably the surface feels burnished but that doesn't mean that there isn't grit present in the pores. I have just finished reading about the process online and one of the sources did mention about there being residual media left behind at that very microscopic level. Sorry I can't quote it right now. I hope you're right that there's nothing left behind and this doesn't come back to bite everyone down the road.
I'd be very, very wary of vapour blasting BMW crankcases. I'm a big fan of the process and had my own vapour blast cabinet until last year. There are so many oil ways and internal blind spots that make it very difficult to clean out the cases afterwards. I have a large ultrasonic cleaner that I use once parts have been vapour blasted, even with this I would never vapour blast BMW cases. You will find that most vapour blast companys will have a disclaimer about cleaning the parts yourself after the process.

Heres a swinging arm I ran through the process



You can see how well it cleans and the peeing effect close up. After two years of use, including some mild off roading, it only takes a wipe with solvol to get it looking like this again.

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Old 01-08-2013, 11:10 PM   #50
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It's interesting that these parts are cast in sand, yet somehow cleaned. Yet...the task of cleaning them after this process is beyond human capabilities.

I trust my cleaning skills. Surely someone will now post a story about a guy that said the same thing and destroyed his bike...

This is turning into an oil thread.
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'91 Bill Holland Steel w/Dura Ace[/SIZE]
'01 Z3 3.0 Coupe. The Clownshoe.
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Old 01-09-2013, 12:24 PM   #51
Kai Ju
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Originally Posted by DiabloADV View Post
It's interesting that these parts are cast in sand, yet somehow cleaned. Yet...the task of cleaning them after this process is beyond human capabilities.

I trust my cleaning skills. Surely someone will now post a story about a guy that said the same thing and destroyed his bike...

This is turning into an oil thread.

I have to agree, especially since the OP asked:
Anyone else use silver rub n' buff on aluminum?

He didn't ask what works better or why you don't like it or ???????

Anyway, I'm actively chasing down the Pewter version and so far I'm striking out, unless I want to pay double at Amazon since none of my local Michaels seem to have it in stock.
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Old 01-09-2013, 12:37 PM   #52
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Aww Shoot! nothing like encouraging somebody to do a proper job instead of bodging things.
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Old 01-09-2013, 02:29 PM   #53
Hookalatch
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Anyway, I'm actively chasing down the Pewter version and so far I'm striking out, unless I want to pay double at Amazon since none of my local Michaels seem to have it in stock.
Amazon lists several other sources besides just themselves. The prices vary between the suppliers- I have some coming to me for less than $6 shipped. I can't even drive to town and back for $6.

Chuck
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Old 01-09-2013, 04:16 PM   #54
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Just another R n B thread!

The real question is...

How frickin' shiny do you want your motor to be???!!!

After you ride it a while, it's gonna get dirty again...

I blasted the Guzzi case at the carwash today. I got soaked and it blasted the grime and grease right off it at the Super Hi Pressure bay.
This is what it came down to...clean but "stained".



A Dremel tool with a coupla brush attachments clean the surface right up... that's my patina


danedg screwed with this post 01-09-2013 at 04:22 PM
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Old 01-09-2013, 07:07 PM   #55
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Originally Posted by Kai Ju View Post

Anyway, I'm actively chasing down the Pewter version and so far I'm striking out, unless I want to pay double at Amazon since none of my local Michaels seem to have it in stock.
Walser's art supply in Torrance or Blick in Santa Monica.
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Old 01-09-2013, 08:35 PM   #56
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kai Ju View Post
I have to agree, especially since the OP asked:
Anyone else use silver rub n' buff on aluminum?

He didn't ask what works better or why you don't like it or ???????

Anyway, I'm actively chasing down the Pewter version and so far I'm striking out, unless I want to pay double at Amazon since none of my local Michaels seem to have it in stock.
Lots on Fleabay. Stay out of Michaels, they all seemed to "think" they had it in stock, all they did was make me unnecessarily wander the aisles on crutches.

But funny the silver seemed popular when that first came about a year or so back, all the sellers on Fleabay but one Canadian seemed out of stock.
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Old 01-09-2013, 10:52 PM   #57
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Art supply warehouse on Westminster in Westminster Ca. Iirc ey also do web sales.
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Old 01-10-2013, 12:09 AM   #58
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Thanks for the heads up on sources. The reason i was looking in Michaels is because there price was the most reasonable at jut about $4.50. All the have tho is gold or silver leaf.
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Old 01-10-2013, 05:48 AM   #59
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Not sure if this is place is a chain, but there is a Hobby Lobby by me that has silver, gold, pewter, and black.
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http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=608166
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Old 01-10-2013, 08:59 AM   #60
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Just want to say, FWIW and for those who may not have noticed:
the target-market appears to be framers of art.

In other words, art framing shops and suppliers are likely sources.
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