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Old 01-10-2013, 10:10 AM   #61
Claytonroy
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May be 205 - Michael's 40% Off coupon

Quote:
Originally Posted by Kai Ju View Post
Thanks for the heads up on sources. The reason i was looking in Michaels is because there price was the most reasonable at jut about $4.50. All the have tho is gold or silver leaf.
I bought some "Silver Leaf" to try out at my local Michael's, but they didn't have the Pewter.

FYI they often have a "40% off one full priced item" coupon..

I got mine for $2.69!

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Old 01-10-2013, 02:04 PM   #62
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...wowsers...thanks for posting this about Rub'n'Buff. never knew about
this lil product. I'll put some in my armory of FLITZ's, compounds, paints n such.

Also glad t here about the Vapor thing. Fantastical.
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Old 01-10-2013, 03:26 PM   #63
patanga
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Quote:
Originally Posted by supershaft View Post
I totally agree yet again. I hadn't read this thread until today. I got a few laughs out of it! Personally, I think any kind of painted on aluminum look looks lake crap. I can spot it a mile away. Including photos of that silvery stuff in this thread. Black painted engines look good for a year or two.

No one started at the beginning. WASH your bike! Then they won't get so nasty looking to start with! Airheads go on and on about maintenance. Washing a bike IS maintenance! You can not properly maintain a dirty bike!

I wonder what kind of dry blast patanga was using? I have used finer sand and glass on tons of BMW motorcycle parts and have never run into his troubles. Glass bead does not leave a sharp edge?
Agreed re the wipe on look. Each to their own though I suppose. To date the best overall results I've had is with wet glass media blasting. I've tried the fine sand and while the result looks good, surfaces tend to show finger prints afterwards from my experience. If the part is going to be painted then I'd say sand is fine as it will provide a better key for the paint to adhere to. Haven't tried walnut media so have no comment to make on that one. Perhaps new dry media material has been developed since I last tried the stuff, but till recently my preference has been for wet blasting. One thing I never blast is carb bodies.

Agree totally with Mr Farmer regards engine casings. If you have one blasted be sure to flush, flush and flush the oil passages and then flush again. Will more than likely go with ultrasonic clean next time.

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Old 01-10-2013, 05:28 PM   #64
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Hardwaregrrl could use a l'il RubNBuff!


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Old 03-11-2014, 01:23 PM   #65
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Quote:
Originally Posted by danedg View Post
Hardwaregrrl could use a l'il RubNBuff!



Or maybe just a little more torque holding her final drive on.

So does anyone have a magic remedy for removing this rub'n'buff stuff? My /5 has it on the valve covers (I think). They're so hyper silvery that it's obviously not bare aluminum and paint stripper didn't take it off so it doesn't seem to be paint. Is this stuff wax based or what? Maybe some gasoline would take it off? A solvent solution would be preferable, but if media blasting is the only answer, then blasting it shall be.
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Old 03-11-2014, 01:31 PM   #66
danedg
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I only use the stuff on scrungy nuts and bolts, linkages. It seemed to only last a year or so, and then it was back to "brown". I'd never do a whole valve cover or engine case. Brake cleaner takes everything off doesn't it?
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Old 03-11-2014, 01:41 PM   #67
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Solvents will work.

I use it a lot, but I don't like the look when it is on full strength. I always go back with mineral spirits and wipe it off to bring the aluminum back and leave just the bare minimum of R & B.
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Old 03-11-2014, 02:13 PM   #68
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What he said. You rub it on then you buff it off and leave just a tiny bit...
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Old 03-11-2014, 02:18 PM   #69
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Alright, then I guess what I have is something else. It certainly doesn't rub off.
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Old 03-11-2014, 02:33 PM   #70
danedg
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I was only referring to those who "slather" it on. The stuff was designed as an "art" medium. As a substitute for real gold or silver gilt on frames and stuff. The tube says it contains wax and I'll bet the rest is an acrylic paint of some sort.
Try some nail polish remover!
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Old 03-11-2014, 02:34 PM   #71
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Airhead Wrangler View Post
Alright, then I guess what I have is something else. It certainly doesn't rub off.
Yeah...RnB comes right off with solvent. It's carnauba wax-based. Yours might be painted.

I've been using the pewter color -- rub very thin coat on, then scrub the surface with a white scotch brite. Very nice result that looks like natural cast aluminum. The pigment just settles down into the "pores" where you can't scrub off the oxidation. It's not on the high peaks, so the end result doesn't look painted or fake.
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Old 03-12-2014, 07:18 PM   #72
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After doing my nuts, I can't believe how little it took!







Wait, that didn't sound right.... Yes, I think putting a very-thin-indeed rub might work, I will have to try it on some other bitsas on the ST. I am wary of making it look too good, though. Patina is good on a 30 year old bike.!
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Old 03-12-2014, 10:30 PM   #73
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This pic is with a flash. It's not actually this shiny. Cleaned with scotch brite and Simple Green. Then pewter R&Buff; finished with white scotch brite.





Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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Old 03-13-2014, 12:35 AM   #74
Houseoffubar
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I used some of the silver on my transmission, and acetone, and lacquer thinner barely touch it
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Old 03-13-2014, 12:01 PM   #75
danedg
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Simple Green

Quote:
Originally Posted by DiabloADV View Post
This pic is with a flash. It's not actually this shiny. Cleaned with scotch brite and Simple Green. Then pewter R&Buff; finished with white scotch brite.





Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Simple Green is what AMACO recommends to use if you drop a blob of it on your rug or clothing...
AND a final note NOT to use a solvent as it will disperse the product.
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