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Old 06-19-2012, 08:00 AM   #31
firefighter651
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Max, I see that you made it,nice and wet too.Next time your up in Cape Breton the fly fishing is on me.
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Old 06-19-2012, 02:09 PM   #32
Fordfixer
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Older ferries had a bunkhouse dormitory on them. Was a cheap way to get some sleep. $7-$9 if I remember correctly. I usually tried to book a night crossing and used them most trips. Don't see it on the ferries webpage.Wonder if still available? Weather on the Rock in May/June can be brutal as you found out. Newfoundlander's are some of the best people I have known ,just don't try to out party/drink them. Glad you had a safe trip.
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Old 06-19-2012, 02:39 PM   #33
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No bunkhouses on the new ferries just cabins and seating.
And the wind in the wreckhouse means that sometimes they close the road (TCH 1) to semi traffic. It used to blow the train off the tracks and there was a person who lived there, Huey McDougall, who would wire the station in Port aux Basques to hold the train when needed. I shit thee not.
'Twere pleasure meeting you, Max. The door is open anytime.
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Old 06-19-2012, 07:44 PM   #34
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Day 5 – Friday, June 8th

Reub came into the garage around 9 am the next morning. I was already up and had my bike packed up when he came by. I made some breakfast and some coffee for both of us, and then he showed me his horses. One of them was a Newfoundland pony… but I don’t remember which one he said was; it was one of the two smaller ones. I hung out there for about another hour or so while a bunch of his customers stopped by and he made appointments to work on their cars for the day. He would be out of town for the weekend, but said if I’m ever back through that I’ve always got a place to stay. We exchanged numbers and I said goodbye and headed up the northern peninsula. Sadly, I don’t think I’ll be up his way for the rest of the trip.




My goal was to make it to L’anse Aux Meadows, the first European settlement in North America, by the end of the day.

I had heard the moose here in Newfoundland were a big danger to motorists. In fact, it was practically a death sentence to ride the roads at night on a motorcycle... Or at least so I had come to believe. To this point though, I hadn’t yet seen any in Newfoundland. The ride up the northern peninsula changed that. I saw probably two dozen of them… and probably didn’t see far more than that. The fear of hitting one of these giants kept my speed pretty slow. The speed limit on the road up was 80 kph and I was doing probably 70 the whole way. It was slow going and I was making a lot of stops along the way.





The landscape of the northern peninsula was quite different from the rest of the island (at least the rest that I explored). The trees were all small and wind-blown and there were vast areas of what looked like tundra.



There were dozens of small fishing villages scattered along the route up to L’anse Aux Meadows. Most were small communities of probably less than a hundred people. It seemed the farther north I went, the friendlier the locals were.

On the way north, I stopped by Port Au Choix. This was a big fishing port at one time. The mainstay of the Newfoundland economy used to be cod fishing. However, in 1992, there was a moratorium that essentially ceased the commercial fishing of cod due to their over-fishing which led to a vast depletion of their population. According to the locals, and supported by what I saw, this was felt hardest on the northern peninsula where there essentially was no other industry.





I saw a sign for Wu’s place, a Chinese restaurant, at Port Au Choix. I was starving and didn’t feel like cooking a meal… and their prices were cheap, so Wu’s it was.





It looked delicious… However, that may have been the worst Chinese food I’ve ever had in my entire life. Blech! Oh well, it served its purpose to fill my stomach.

Heading up the peninsula, the weather got colder and colder. My left leg was freezing and breezy. I pulled over and noticed that the stitching above my left knee on my leather pants was coming undone… Zip ties FTMFW!





The ride up the northern peninsula ranged from fully wooded to barren and desolate. I tried to pull over and grab pictures as much as I could.


My artsy fartsy picture of the trip



I pulled off the side of the road to take a leak. When I pulled over to a small dirt road, I noticed that I had pulled off onto one of the many logging roads that had small sawmills.



I noticed some land off to the left as I was riding north. I pulled over and looked at the map and realized that the land off to the left across the sea was Labrador. There were several icebergs in the water.





The weather got colder and colder the closer I got to L’anse Aux Meadows. It had started to drizzle and was just unbearably cold. I made it up to L’anse Aux Meadows, but the visitor center had already closed and I needed to find a spot to camp for the night.





I headed back south and looked for old logging roads. About twenty miles south of L’anse Aux Meadows I went down a logging road and found a good spot to throw down a tent. I set up camp and went out scavenging wood. These were the coldest temps of the trip, and I wanted a fire to warm up next to. Everything was soaking wet and I knew starting a fire would be a challenge. I gathered up as much kindling as I could and a lot of larger pieces. Rather than find some dry leaves (there weren’t any) or other tinder, I decided to put my fuel cans to good use again. Instead of tinder, I just poured some gas on the kindling and got it started that way. I got a good fire going and that lasted for several hours before I went to sleep for the night.



I then made dinner for the night and went to sleep.



Total mileage for the day: 248 miles

Day 5 route:
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Old 06-19-2012, 07:46 PM   #35
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Originally Posted by damurph View Post
No bunkhouses on the new ferries just cabins and seating.
And the wind in the wreckhouse means that sometimes they close the road (TCH 1) to semi traffic. It used to blow the train off the tracks and there was a person who lived there, Huey McDougall, who would wire the station in Port aux Basques to hold the train when needed. I shit thee not.
'Twere pleasure meeting you, Max. The door is open anytime.
It was a pleasure meeting you as well Murph... and eating your food!
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Old 06-20-2012, 04:55 AM   #36
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Planning a trip like this for next year. Do you have to make rservations for the ferry or can you just show up. And get on. Great report enjoying it.
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Old 06-20-2012, 04:55 AM   #37
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Day 6 – Saturday, June 9th

I woke up after about five hours. My feet were cold and I was shivering. There was no use in trying to go back to sleep. I was too cold. I got up and got the fire going again to warm up. It had dipped below freezing last night, as there was frost on my bike seat. What the hell? This was mid-June! Welcome to the northern peninsula of Newfoundland, I guess.


On the way back up to L’anse Aux Meadows.

Although I was slowly realizing how safe my items on my bike were here in Newfoundland, I noticed a lot of license plates in the parking lot that weren't from Newfoundland. Since I would be away from my bike for an hour or two, I decided to lock everything up.


140 L Pacsafe luggage lock.


Handgun lock through my helmet.

I packed up and headed up L’anse Aux Meadows. As I said earlier, this was the first European settlement in North America. It was a Viking settlement that was occupied for about ten years around 1000 AD. They had the archaeological remains on that you could look at, but that was just a few uninteresting grass mounds. They also recreated the original settlement as authentically as they could. As I was walking down the path to the archaeological remains, I stumbled upon a small tour group, so I joined them. The tour guide was a gentlemen that grew up around the area and actually used to play on the archaeological site as a kid. They thought it was old Indian grounds at the time.

He did a fantastic job of doing the tour... However, there was an extremely annoying couple from Vancouver, British Columbia along for the tour as well. They seemed to be very knowledgeable about the site, and made sure everyone on the tour knew how much information they knew. At any break in his speaking, no matter how small, they would cut in with a tidbit of useless information or ask a question they knew the answer to. For example, the tour guide mentioned the cod fishing moratorium in the early 90s, and Mrs. Douchio had to cut in and ask 'the moratorium started in the year 1992, right?' Well, fuck you very much for that information. I don't know how I got by on this tour without it. Fucking cunt. I eventually got sick of the yuppie couple and took off on my own again to explore the site.





















I next rode through St. Anthony. There was nothing there I particularly wanted to see, so I stopped when I found something interesting, but I didn’t spend much time there. I pictured it being a much larger place than it was.







Back home almost no one flies a Pennsylvania flag. Lots of people, of course, fly the US flag, but the PA flag is largely ignored. In Newfoundland, however, I see an occasional Canadian flag, but mostly their provincial flag is flown. Newfoundlanders are definitely Newfoundlander first and Canadian second (as I had been told more than once).



From there I headed back south. My goal was to get to Gros Morne, and maybe a bit further if possible. I didn’t stop to see much this day. I had already traveled these roads a couple days before, so it was mostly just a straight shot down. However, passing back down through Parson’s Pond, I ran into a fellow holding an interesting sign.



I didn’t recognize the flag on the sign and was curious about it, so I slowed down, swung a u-turn and talked to him. He was a fairly young guy, probably my age. He seemed quite happy to talk to me and I was happy to listen. He explained that Quebec had something like 85% of the Capelin fishing rights in the Gulf of St. Lawrence and that there was a great deal of animosity toward Quebec because of it. As I was talking to him, he pulled a beer out of his fishing boot. I then noticed his boots were loaded with beer! Neat trick. I talked to him for a bit longer, said goodbye, and headed down the road.





I stopped to have a quick lunch of heated up flakes of turkey on pita bread. It was actually quite tasty!





Along the way, I stopped when I saw a fox hanging out on the side of the road. When I pulled over to take a picture of it, it came a little closer and kept giving me quizzical looks. As I pulled away, it followed me. I stopped, and it stopped. I then slowly rode alongside the shoulder for a bit and it followed me the whole time, stopping every time I did. Neat little fellow.



I made it to Gros Morne and decided to go on past it to find a logging road to camp for free. I had stopped earlier and picked up two small steaks to cook over the fire. The problem was that it was very windy and I didn’t feel comfortable making a fire in the woods. It looks like I would have to cook it over my small camp stove. As luck would have it, I came upon a gravel pit down the logging road. It was surrounded by dirt and stone hills on all sides and was far from any trees. Windy or not, this was a plenty safe place to start a fire without fear of catching anything else on fire with blowing embers!



I grilled up my first steak and took a bite out of it and spit it right out. What the hell! It was so salty it made my stomach turn. I looked at the package and saw I had inadvertently bought a salt cured steak. This one four ounce steak had 6000g of sodium. Yuck. This became a meal for the fire. However, even the fire didn’t seem to want it. It never would burn all the way through, despite sitting right on the coals.

Luckily my other steak wasn’t salt cured, so I enjoyed that one. I like my steaks rare to medium rare, so cooking over a fire is perfect. I burn down some wood until there is just a hot bed of coals. I season one side, then toss it directly on top of the coals. After a minute I flip it over and season the other side. It gets a light char on the outside while the inside is tender. Perfect.


(not exactly how I like to do it, but I dropped this one there and just went with it)


Delicious!

Oh, and a hot tip for cooking over a campfire: Don't try to move one of the rocks with your bare hands... They're hot.



I was probably a mile or two down the logging road and far away from any sort of civilization. With the wind howling and making strange noises, your mind can sometimes play tricks on you. I swore I kept hearing voices and rustling around nearby. I kept shining the flashlight into the woods expecting to see some eyes reflecting back at me. Though, nothing. It didn’t help that I was reading a creepy adventure novel, and then images from every horror movie I had ever watched kept playing through my mind. Here I was 29 years old and scared of the dark! Hahaha.

Although the wind kept me pretty chilled, the temperature was the warmest of any night thus far. Once I crawled into the tent and the wind wasn’t as strong, it was actually pretty comfortable.

Total mileage for the day: 312 miles

Day 6 route:
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Pennsylvania to Newfoundland Ride Report
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Old 06-20-2012, 07:58 AM   #38
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Day 7 – Sunday, June 10th

I woke up around 9am, which means I got a solid nine hours of sleep! I really needed that sleep too. I had been working on way too few hours of sleep since my trip started. The much warmer temperatures of the night afforded me time to sleep. I packed up and got on the road heading to Twillingate.

The interior of the island looked somewhat like home in some respects. The trees were larger and there were more deciduous trees, not just the scrubby pines of the northern peninsula. Around lunch time I stopped at a gas station to fill up and picked up a few groceries as well. I then pulled off onto a logging road to make lunch.








This rice crispies treat sounds delicious...

On the way up to Twillingate, I pulled over at a small provincial park sign to take a picture...



Once I got close to Twillingate, the scenery changed again to a beautiful seaside appearance. Whereas the northern peninsula was poor and dreary, this region looked fairly wealthy and touristy. I also noticed the people were not nearly as friendly as they were on the northern peninsula. It seems they are quite used to dealing with tourists and aren’t as warm because of it (who can blame them). I stopped in Twillingate and got an ice cream and took a walk out to a beach.







I stopped and saw a small iceberg wedged into the rocks, so I walked down to get a better look and some pictures of it. Next to it was a piece of the iceberg about the size of a bowling ball. I got the tripod and set up a picture of me holding it over my head. I was then going to post it with some mildly amusing title like 'the great max, iceberg conquerer,' or something equally as ghey. I seem to have screwed up the timer and only have a picture of the back of my legs. Ah well, here's another small iceberg picture:




Whale skeleton





This touristy place, albeit beautiful, just wasn’t really what I came to Newfoundland to see and experience. I didn’t spend much time there. I headed south with hopes of making it to Terra Nova National Park that day. It was mostly a straight shot there, other than stopping in Gander for some groceries for the next day or two. I decided to stop into their Walmart and see if it was any differed from the ones in the States. Other than this store being a regular Walmart (not a Super Walmart), you’d never know you weren’t in the States.

On the way to Terra Nova, I saw a sign with the ‘screaming eagle’ from the 101st airborne division. I was intrigued and couldn’t imagine there was a Canadian airborne unit with the same insignia. I took the turn and ended up on a small dirt road. I was sure I took the wrong turn, but continued down just in case I found a good place to camp. Then I saw the sign for the 101st airborne division ‘silent memorial.’ A military plane full of soldiers from the 101 had crashed there coming back from a peacekeeping mission on the Sinai Peninsula. Canada erected a memorial in their honor. I’m glad that I stopped to see this. It was odd to see a bunch of American flags planted in Canadian soil though.











It was about 9 pm by the time I made it to Terra Nova National Park. I decided I wanted a shower (it had been a few days), so I stopped in and set up camp at the park camp site. I was bummed to see that fires were not allowed in the park, but it wasn’t all that cold this night anyhow, and I didn’t have any meat to cook over the fire, so I didn’t lose any sleep over it.



Total mileage for the day: 402 miles

Day 7 route:
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Old 06-20-2012, 09:24 AM   #39
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Thank you for posting this! The pictures and information you've shared is great. I've bow hunted Moose just south of St. Anthony. The people were great and so was the hunting. You're RR is making me want to do the ride also. Thanks again for posting.
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Old 06-20-2012, 01:08 PM   #40
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Originally Posted by Moosehunter View Post
Thank you for posting this! The pictures and information you've shared is great. I've bow hunted Moose just south of St. Anthony. The people were great and so was the hunting. You're RR is making me want to do the ride also. Thanks again for posting.
Thanks for showing interest in my ride report. It's always nice to have an audience!

After doing this ride report, I've now got an itch to go moose hunting up there. The amount of moose in the northern peninsula was just staggering... and that was only those moose that I actually saw.
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Old 06-20-2012, 02:11 PM   #41
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While I don't know if I'll every get to Alaska,,,, and I really want to.
Newfoundland is now a very real possibility.
Thanks for sharing
Les
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Old 06-20-2012, 02:17 PM   #42
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I'm really enjoying this RR! I've been to Newfoundland twice and have been to many of the places you have featured, including the crash site near Gander. I hope you made it out to the Bonavista Peninsula, its really lovely out there....
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Old 06-20-2012, 02:29 PM   #43
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Day 8 – Monday, June 11th

I got another good night of sleep on account of it not being too cold. I woke up and decided to take another shower… Not because I needed one, as I had one the night before, but the hot water was nice. Although it wasn’t frigid out, it was still quite chilly. After a shower and breakfast I decided to catch up on this ride report. I sat by my laptop for a good two hours before realizing that I hadn’t started the bike the whole time the inverter that was powering the laptop was plugged in. I quickly unplugged the inverter and tried starting the bike… The battery was dead. I tried in vain to push start it for the next few minutes. The ground was all flat so it was hard to get enough speed and the few times where I might have gotten enough speed, the thick gravel road just caused the tires to skid rather than biting in to turn over the engine. I walked down the road and found a Park maintenance worker. I asked if he had jumper cables, but he didn’t. He then asked another guy, and neither of them had any. They agreed to try and push me so I could start it that way. We got going at a pretty good clip, but my rear tire just skidded on the loose gravel and never turned over the motor. They were kind enough to make a few calls and secure a set of jumper cables for me. I was back on the road (and hopefully wiser about using my power next time!).



After a lazy morning and a jump start, I was ready to hit the road. I didn’t have an awfully long day ahead of me. I had the general plan for the day to make it to St. Johns. I wasn’t going to stay there since I was doing camping and I assumed free camping spots wouldn’t be plentiful in the city. I figured I would check out the city, take a few pictures, and then head out of town to find a spot to camp.

I stopped into a Tim Hortons in Clarenville, just south of Terra Nova National Park, to grab a coffee. I was really beginning to grow a fondness for their coffee at this point. Dare might I say that it is better than Dunkin Donuts???

While sitting inside enjoying my coffee, I decided to check on my thread at ridetherock.com. The previous night I had given an update in my thread telling everyone that I was headed to St. Johns the next day. When I logged in, I saw that I had a new private message from ‘Murph.’ He gave me his address and phone number and told me to stop by. He said he had a place for me to sleep, a shower, and I could wash my clothes. Well, as luck would have it, I had just used my last clean pair of socks, so today was laundry day anyhow. What timing!

I replied back that I would text him if he did texting… Turns out Murph isn’t exactly savvy in newfangled things like cell phones. He is actually a self-described Luddite (more on that later). He told me to stop by a payphone and give him a call when I was close by.

Anywho, I finished my cup of coffee, talked to a guy on a V-Strom 650 (likely to be my next bike), and got back on the road. The scenery on the route to St. John’s was quite beautiful. However, I had given Murph a timeframe on when I would be there, and I pride myself on being punctual… So I didn’t stop and take many pictures. Here are the few that I stopped to take though:













I was pretty close to St. Johns, within a half hour to forty-five minutes, when I saw my first moose outside of the northern peninsula. I was going around a right hander on the TCH (trans-Canadian highway to everyone who isn’t on ridetherock) in the left passing lane when this giant bastard vaulted over the guardrail on the left side of the road. I’ve always pictured moose as gangly clumbsy creatures with the finesse of a string of firecrackers. However, this moose was able to jump from a steep hill over the guard rail and onto the road seemingly effortlessly. As soon as it hit the road, it ran straight for the other side of the road. Once it jumped over the railing, I knew I couldn’t avoid it by braking. I was going too fast and would have had to straighten the bike if I was going to brake hard and head straight at the guard rail. So, the only thing I could really do (or at least the best option) was to keep on the throttle and lean harder into the turn and move into the right lane, hoping to beat it to the other side of the road. As I turned in harder, the moose looked at me, got spooked, and turned and ran the other way! Whew. I don’t know if I would have hit it. I really think I would have missed it by taking the turn tighter… But either way, I knew I had to pull over and check my drawers. It was likely that Murph’s offer of a shower was going to be a bit more generous than he knew…

I pulled over and discovered that I had somehow managed not to shit myself! Since I was pulled over anyhow, I took a few pictures.







Shortly thereafter I arrived in St. Johns. I pulled into a gas station parking lot and called up Murph on my cell phone. I told him I was a minute away and he told me he’d meet me outside when I got there. My GPS took me right there and Murph greeted me ouside when I got there.

We started with short introductions and got right to unloading my stuff and putting it away in his house. We then did a bit of small talk before heading out to look at his bikes and talk bike stuff. I don’t personally know anyone who is bike-only, and I know a few on forums that only own bikes as their means of transportation. Each of these people lives in the southern US where there is traditional riding weather year round… Well, this Murph fellow rides all year in Newfoundland, and has done so for many years! When I asked him what he did when it was snowy or icy, he showed me his KLR. I immediately liked him.

I also met GI Jane (from ridetherock) that night. I would get to know her a bit better over the next couple days riding.

Murph and I spent the rest of the night talking about bikes and riding and such. He then showed me the room I would be staying in, and I went to bed. It was quite nice to sleep in a real bed inside, rather than freezing in a sleeping bag on the hard ground. I slept very nicely that night.

Total mileage for the day: 319 miles

Day 8 route:
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Old 06-20-2012, 03:25 PM   #44
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Nice report max! Keep it up. Subscribed
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Old 06-20-2012, 05:55 PM   #45
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Day 9 – Tuesday, June 12th

Murph got up and went into work before I got up… He also decided he wasn’t going to be staying at work and came back home… All before I ever managed to pull my lazy ass out of bed! I got up and Murph made us both an excellent breakfast. I was starting to get used to this kinda life… Especially after a week or so of canned food.

After breakfast Murph showed me around St. John’s. We went to Signal Hill, Cape Spear, the downtown, Quidi Vidi brewery, and other smaller fishing areas around the city. It was nice having Murph taking me straight to the ‘must see tourist attractions’ as well as the smaller out-of-the-way areas. If I was doing this on my own, I wouldn’t have known how to get to these places directly, and I wouldn’t have known to see these smaller places he showed me.

Cape Spear, the most easterly point in North America:





The battery at Cape Spear:











Lighthouse at cape spear:



Quidi Vidi area (I think!):









Signal Hill, which is the site where the first transatlantic wireless signal was received:





Other areas around St. John's:









Murph took his 20 year old BMW K75 (I think that is the model). He called this motorcycle his parts bike because he bought it to use for parts… Yet he seemed quite fond of riding it! As soon as we got out of city limits, Murph was immediately ripping up the twisties immediately surrounding the area. One would have thought that my 2009 SV650S stripped of all its luggage would have no problem keeping up with “an old man on a twenty year old parts bike” with side panniers attached… But Murph was quick! I just couldn’t manage to keep up with him. Damn this fast old man!

We also stopped by a local coffee house (I think it was today… maybe it was the next). Well actually Murph just needed to stop by the bank, but we parked in front of the coffee house where all the other bikes were. While Murph ran to the bank, I ordered us two coffees. We then sat outside of a coffee house sipping coffee while our bikes sat out front… I had a good chuckle when I realized this was the first time I actually rode my bike to the coffee house to have a coffee. At least I had a dirty, ugly, rashed up bike that proved I didn’t really fit in there! Lol.

I was blown away at just how many bikes there were in St. John’s. I actually enjoyed sipping on my coffee watching all the people on their bikes riding up and down the main drag there in front of the shop. I don’t think I’ve ever seen so many bikes in one place as I did there in downtown St. John’s on a warm sunny day. I should have taken a picture of my bike parked in front, but I didn’t think of it.

After a morning of riding around the city we went back to his house to meet back up with GI Jane. I kept thanking him for taking me in and then taking me for rides around the area. He kept telling me he was just paying back the favor for a couple that took him in for a few days… Though I have a feeling that he would have done the same even if he didn’t have that experience.

GI Jane came and met up with us shortly after we arrived back to his house. She rode two-up with Murph… Finally I would be able to keep up with this guy! His neighbor, Spock (from ridetherock), also stopped by and rode with us for the day. As with every other Newfoundlander I had the pleasure of meeting, he was a hell of a nice guy.

We rode down the southern portion of the Avalon peninsula. We made several small stops so that Murph could show me a small site I would have never known existed or give me some details on the route or some sort of historical significance of the place. It was like I had booked a personal motorcycle tour guide or something!

It should also be noted that even two-up, I could barely keep up with him. Murph is one skilled rider… And I got the feeling that he wasn’t even pushing it either!

We stopped alongside the rode somewhere along our route (I couldn’t tell you where at this point) and pulled off to see a giant iceberg that was lodged alongside the peninsula. Although I describe the iceberg as giant, it was pointed out to me that this was not really all that big in comparison to others that were previously in Newfoundland. GI Jane had made us some delicious snack wraps, which we ate as we watched the iceberg calve (I hope I am using the right word, I only heard it spoken, not written). When an iceberg calves, that means that large chunks of ice fall off into the water. Notice the water line in the first picture as compared to the later pictures. We were hoping that it was going to roll… But it never did while we were there. It was incredibly lucky timing to get there when we did.




Notice the water line on the iceberg and also the smaller ice chunks around it.




Murph and I.

We rode through some absolutely beautiful barren landscape that Murph called ‘bleakosity.’ Although it was barren and bleak, I really enjoyed it because it was so much different than the land at home, and really quite breathtaking.



From there we rode down to Cape Pine, the southernmost point of Newfoundland. There wasn’t really all that much to see… It was just cool knowing we were at that landmark, which in this case was the southernmost point.



Along the route back to Murph’s house, Murph pulled over to grab some gas. It hadn’t been very long since our last gas stop, but my legs were getting a bit tired, so I didn’t mind a break. However, once I got off the bike, Murph came over and pointed out a car parked out front. I now understood why we stopped there to get gas. The owner of the gas station also owned an amphicar (An amphibious car. Google it. It’s pretty cool). The owner came out and showed me around the car and told me a little bit about it while we were there. I’ve seen these on TV before, but this is the first one I’ve ever seen in person. It was definitely worth the stop.





Soon after this stop Spock tore off and headed home apart from us. We didn’t do much else for sightseeing either. We headed straight home to drop off GI Jane and then we went to a grocery store for dinner (which Murph refused to let me pay for) and then to the liquor store. I grabbed a six pack of Quidi Vidi 1892 and a mixed Quidi Vidi six pack. As I walked into the cooler and grabbed my beer, Murph turned to me and thanked me for supporting his country’s healthcare. I was a bit confused by this statement until I looked at the price of the six pack… $13.99! I thought this small brewery must be extra-expensive until I looked around and realized the going price for a case of beer was in the forties to fifties in dollars. Back home I drink Boxer lager which is $15 for a 36 pack. If I want to splurge I buy Yuengling lager for about $20 a case. Canada’s prices took me by surprise.

We got back and Murph started on dinner. I kept asking if I could help, but he wouldn’t have any of that. Finally he asked me to take out his compost… I finally felt like I was beginning to earn my keep… even if it was 10 seconds of work.

That night we bullshitted about riding and bikes and spent time on Google Earth looking at the routes we did that day. All the while I was busy drinking the beer that I had bought earlier. I didn’t realize quite how strong they were until I was ready for bed. I had only seven beers that night, yet I was quite wasted. Murph gave a quick laugh and said something to the effect of ‘told ya.’

Total mileage for the day: 253 miles.

Route for day 9:
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'09 Suzuki SV650, '02 KLR250, CRF70 and 80 for the kids
IBA # 56419

Pennsylvania to Newfoundland Ride Report
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