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Old 05-18-2013, 07:25 AM   #2431
estebansos
Gnarly Adventurer
 
Joined: Feb 2009
Location: Bogotá, Colombia
Oddometer: 101
wines

Oh Salta.. Good memories.. There is a one in a lifetime experience there which is a very crazy one in deed. At least for me. There is a winery from a very rich guy from switzerland who owns a land near salta who also is an art collector. The bodega is called Colomé, he also owns wineries in Napa. I had to go there for work and although not really impressed with the wine, he built a museum for a renowned artist called James Turrell.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/James_Turrell
The museum was built to meet the artwork as it interacts with the space and architecture of the place.
http://www.bodegacolome.com/museo/?lang=en
The setting is magical. The artwork is amazing. It was really one of the highlights to see that mystical place and have a tasting.
For me, the best wine was one called, Molino de Cachi. Very hard to find, but very rewarding when you do.
http://www.bodegaelmolino.com.ar/
If you go there, and pass the mytical Molino on a hill, you will ride one of the best roads of R40. Hopefully you can get to know quebrada de flechas
http://es.wikipedia.org/wiki/Quebrada_de_Las_Flechas
an uncredited beauty, or not as famous as it should be, maybe for the better.
Have fun. Enjoy and if you are shipping your bike from there I recommend dakar motos, I used them while was there and they were tons of help.
Safe riding.
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Old 05-18-2013, 11:03 AM   #2432
flyingdutchman177 OP
Beastly Adventurer
 
Joined: Apr 2012
Location: Alaska - where hell has frozen over
Oddometer: 4,408
Snow!!!!!!

Am I too far south?????
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Old 05-18-2013, 12:44 PM   #2433
Moss
Adventurer
 
Joined: Jul 2012
Location: North coast, Spain
Oddometer: 76
Hi Ed,
I'm now on page 78 of your blog and thoroughly enjoying it. Thanks for the pics of the girls, enjoying that too!!!

But what's with the 'call me Lalo'? My brothers name is Abelardo and my father called him Lalo from when he was a little boy and everyone knows him as Lalo ever since.

See ya.
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Old 05-18-2013, 03:54 PM   #2434
flyingdutchman177 OP
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Joined: Apr 2012
Location: Alaska - where hell has frozen over
Oddometer: 4,408
Colome'

My first stop was to this winery called Colome'.
If any winery gets the award for being out in the middle of nowhere, this one surely would be in the running.
If I would give someone directions, it would sound like this........

From Salta, take the 33 which is part paved part dirt up over the 10,000 foot pass. Go about 2 hours. Turn left on to the first dirt road when you get to the long straight away. Take that dirt road for 20 miles. Then turn south on Ruta 40 (which is also dirt) and ride for about an hour. Then when you get to the village of Molinos, turn right and head back on that "trail" for 12 miles, cross a river and 2 streams and you get to the winery.

After all that, it was the only winery I would make it to that day. Getting there was half the fun. The wines were good too

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Old 05-18-2013, 04:05 PM   #2435
flyingdutchman177 OP
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Joined: Apr 2012
Location: Alaska - where hell has frozen over
Oddometer: 4,408
Colome' winery is owned by Donald Hess of Hess Family Winery in Napa Valley.
The winery was founded in 1831 and it makes it the oldest winery in Argentina. The vines are planted at 6000 feet or higher which makes it some of the highest vineyards in the world.
I can get in to the reasoning for all this but my guess is that I have lost your attention at this point and you are just looking at the pictures.

I also wonder what people think when I walk in to a nice winery with my dirty motorcycle gear on and ask to try their wines. At first they probably think I am just a bozo but when I spit out their wine in front of them, I think they begin to realize that I mean business.
In fact, when I pointed out the fact that their tannat was oxidized, the wine maker took notice and took over pouring the wines from the ordinary wine pouring guy. And he also poured for me all the reserve wines at no charge.

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Old 05-18-2013, 04:09 PM   #2436
flyingdutchman177 OP
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Location: Alaska - where hell has frozen over
Oddometer: 4,408
After the wine tasting, the guy took me out to the vineyard to show me the old vines. He said these weren't the oldest. The really old ones when up a bad road on the hill.
And that peaked my curiousity.....



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Old 05-18-2013, 04:16 PM   #2437
flyingdutchman177 OP
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Joined: Apr 2012
Location: Alaska - where hell has frozen over
Oddometer: 4,408
Big ones

Anything BIG will always draw a crowd.
And I am going to geek out for a moment......but I saw the biggest grape vines I have ever seen. These vines are some of the oldest in the world.
You would think the oldest vines would be in France of Italy. But the fact is, most all of the old vines in Europe were wiped out by a disease that killed them about 50 years ago.
Only some places in Eastern Europe and Spain were spared.
And of course, Australia, Argentina and California now have some of the oldest vines in the world. And all of those vines were orginally shipped over from Europe about 150 years ago. And about 50 years ago, they were shipped back to Europe so they could replant their vineyards after the disease.
These vines are over 150 years old. They look like trees.
I couldn't resist giving one a hug!!!!

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Old 05-18-2013, 04:17 PM   #2438
flyingdutchman177 OP
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Old 05-18-2013, 04:24 PM   #2439
flyingdutchman177 OP
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Joined: Apr 2012
Location: Alaska - where hell has frozen over
Oddometer: 4,408
I took Ruta 40 thru the wine country. It was slow going with all the dirt and sand........but WOW! What a view!
The route took me thru this Quebrada (like a canyon).
And I have to say, all my pictures don't do this place justice.
Maybe my videos turned out better and I can upload one so you can see how beautilful this place really is





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Old 05-18-2013, 04:42 PM   #2440
flyingdutchman177 OP
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Joined: Apr 2012
Location: Alaska - where hell has frozen over
Oddometer: 4,408
Road construction

Road construction......

Those are two of my least favorite words
It always means the roads are going from bad to worse

The road was not impossible but on a big GS, it did have me on my toes at times. Some of the slow corners had sand that would grab your front tire. And then there were cars coming the other way so you had to be careful with your line. But when I got to the construction, that's when the fun started.
I thought about this.
All you guys reading my blog, when it is your time to do this trip, the roads are going to be all paved and you won't have to suffer thru this road construction.
And when I post on your blog......I will say, I remember doing that section in 3 inches of sand and no its a 4 lane paved road.





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Old 05-18-2013, 04:46 PM   #2441
flyingdutchman177 OP
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Joined: Apr 2012
Location: Alaska - where hell has frozen over
Oddometer: 4,408
After about 100 miles of dirt.......this black asphalt looked like Emerald City off in the distance

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Old 05-18-2013, 04:50 PM   #2442
flyingdutchman177 OP
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Joined: Apr 2012
Location: Alaska - where hell has frozen over
Oddometer: 4,408
A new day

I visited 3 more wineries the next day
At this point, all the fruit had been picked and the leaves were turning colors

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Old 05-18-2013, 04:51 PM   #2443
flyingdutchman177 OP
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Old 05-18-2013, 04:52 PM   #2444
flyingdutchman177 OP
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Old 05-18-2013, 04:54 PM   #2445
flyingdutchman177 OP
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