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Old 08-04-2012, 05:47 AM   #76
Hodakaguy OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dlearl476 View Post
Something tells me that when you finish with this one, you're going to want to do another one with all the information you've learned from this one, what do do again, what to avoid, etc.

I'd be happy to help finance the next project by buying this one when you get it finished.

It would take a LOT to make me want to start over again......but if you want to make a offer

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Old 08-04-2012, 12:46 PM   #77
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Hey Hodakaguy-
I'm curious, with the cost of synchro westys now, and all the work put into the subie swap, could it make sense to build a syncho out of a 2wd westy bus at the same time as the engine swap? I'm sure it would be spendy, but it seems like you could pick up a 2wd westy with a blown engine for quite a bit less money.
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Old 08-04-2012, 02:41 PM   #78
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Hey Hodakaguy-
I'm curious, with the cost of synchro westys now, and all the work put into the subie swap, could it make sense to build a syncho out of a 2wd westy bus at the same time as the engine swap? I'm sure it would be spendy, but it seems like you could pick up a 2wd westy with a blown engine for quite a bit less money.
Yep it has been done a lot. The trick is finding a Syncro that has good running gear and a bad body to rob the running gear out of. Then a good 2wd with a good body and bad running gear. There will be minor things like the fuel filler in the wrong location on the 2wd so you will have to graft the body section out of the syncro as well. With the price of Syncro Westy's its being done more and more.

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Old 08-04-2012, 07:07 PM   #79
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Great work... love keeping up with this thread...
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Old 08-04-2012, 09:43 PM   #80
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Progress report.

Woke up this morning and started masking parts in preparation for powder coating. This is a high temp tape made to be used in the oven. I masked off the phono finish area where the hub and drum mate up, don't want PC causing the connection to get loose down the road as the PC wears.




More masking.








Applying powder.








19 minutes in the oven and out back to cool down.




Last piece for the day. Since it's heavy and would be easy to mess up while removing it from the oven I shut the oven down and let it cool in place.




A group of freshly PC'd parts. Since the drum takes the brunt of the heat I painted it with 1200 Deg F. Stove Paint instead of PC.




After powder coating I applied rubberized undercoating to add an extra layer of protection inside the rear control arm, with a extra thick layer along the seams.




Over at Mike's polishing up the seal surface on the axle.




Inboard bearing installed. This bearing slips in easily and is secured by a large snap ring. (Snap ring not installed yet in pic). It will be well greased with Waterproof Bel-Ray grease.




For the outboard bearing I used Dry Ice and Denatured Alcohol to shrink the bearing down. Liquid N2 works best but this method will get you around -110 Deg F. Shrinking parts helps prevent wear and tear on both the new bearing and the housing during install. A properly cooled part will require a lot less force to seat the bearing then just pressing/driving a warm bearing.




Outboard bearing installed. Next up pack the bearing with grease and press in the axle. At this point I remembered I was going to drill and tap a hole for a grease zert...oh well bearings are already installed so I will have to do that down the road some time. More to come.



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Hodakaguy screwed with this post 08-04-2012 at 10:30 PM
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Old 08-05-2012, 12:11 AM   #81
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Old 08-05-2012, 06:17 AM   #82
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Great thread... and thanks for sharing it with us!

Is there a specific reason you would use powder coating over a liquid coating... there are some pretty amazing paints out there these days....??
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Old 08-05-2012, 09:08 AM   #83
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Wow.

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Old 08-05-2012, 09:25 AM   #84
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Nice steel toes, bro :)
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Old 08-05-2012, 10:37 AM   #85
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Nice steel toes, bro :)
I was thinking the same thing. Having worked on many transmissions in the shop and have something roll off the bench to hit my foot just past the steel cap, I've learned to quickly shift my feet away from the bench. Not to mention the chipped safety glasses when a drill bit broke.
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Old 08-05-2012, 11:32 AM   #86
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Nice steel toes, bro :)
I actually just walked out in the garage to snap that pic while I was typing up the days progress. I do work in sandals way to often though. :-).

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Old 08-05-2012, 11:37 AM   #87
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Great project, nicely done!

PM me if you need any salt nitriding, black oxide or hard crome. Be happy to help.
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Old 08-05-2012, 01:48 PM   #88
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So tell me, other than the satisfaction of knowing everything is done right, and the ability to do it piece meal, what is the economics of doing the PC yourself.

Always wanted to get into it so I could do small bits and pieces as needed, but never got past the initial outlay for materials and an oven. Same with Carbon Fiber.

I got a little "anodizing" kit from Eastwood a few years ago. It's really nice to be able to plop all the bolts from a project and coat them, but none of the parts, so far, have seen any real world conditions, so who knows how well the finish will hold up. But they LOOK great!
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Old 08-05-2012, 07:16 PM   #89
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Originally Posted by DirtFarmer View Post
Great project, nicely done!

PM me if you need any salt nitriding, black oxide or hard crome. Be happy to help.
Thanks for the offer....I'll keep it in mind

Hodakaguy
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Old 08-05-2012, 07:21 PM   #90
Hodakaguy OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dlearl476 View Post
So tell me, other than the satisfaction of knowing everything is done right, and the ability to do it piece meal, what is the economics of doing the PC yourself.

Always wanted to get into it so I could do small bits and pieces as needed, but never got past the initial outlay for materials and an oven. Same with Carbon Fiber.

I got a little "anodizing" kit from Eastwood a few years ago. It's really nice to be able to plop all the bolts from a project and coat them, but none of the parts, so far, have seen any real world conditions, so who knows how well the finish will hold up. But they LOOK great!

I really like the finish that the Minitex Powder provides. It's durable and holds up well....plus I have free access to the equipment so that helped a lot in the decision process Having the equipment at home and being able to work with it when you have a free moment is a big plus, keeps the progress rolling instead of waiting on a shop to get the parts back to me. Another benefit is being able to bolt up the parts as soon as they are cooled down, no waiting for paint to dry.

It's really not that hard to do, although there are several tricks that we've had to learn along the way. I'd love to experiment with a home anodizing....I could see where that could come in handy as well!

Hodakaguy
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