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Old 06-25-2012, 04:39 PM   #1
Beaming OP
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BMW Final Drive Oil

I was over at Sierra BMW the other day inquiring about final drive oil. The guys in the shop told me that they just got a lower cost oil for the final drive. It is a BMW labeled oil. The cost 22.90 for a liter bottle. The label reads:

BMW Group
Final Drive Gear Oil
C-SAF-XO
SAE 75W-90
P/N 07 51 2 293 972

On the back it says API GL-5
Made in USA
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Old 06-25-2012, 04:57 PM   #2
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Old 06-25-2012, 05:03 PM   #3
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I still like my royal purple 75w-90 gear oil. for half that price. plus the color helps if i start getting leaks.
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Old 06-25-2012, 05:36 PM   #4
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Super Tech 75w-140 GL-5, ~$8.00/quart. Ad some moly and you've got a good, low cost GL-5.
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Old 06-25-2012, 05:44 PM   #5
RichieBoone
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I am about to do mine, first time...new '12 gsa
75w-90 or 75w-140? I was thinking about getting the Royal Purple too?

would this work for the transmission?
http://www.amazon.com/Royal-Purple-0...xgy_01_02_t_lh
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Old 06-25-2012, 06:12 PM   #6
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I just did my FD oil back in april with Royal Purple 85W 140.
Seems to be fine so far! Should do really well if you do long rides, and ride
in alot of hot weather.
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Old 06-25-2012, 06:55 PM   #7
roadtrip22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RichieBoone View Post
I am about to do mine, first time...new '12 gsa
75w-90 or 75w-140? I was thinking about getting the Royal Purple too?

would this work for the transmission?
http://www.amazon.com/Royal-Purple-0...xgy_01_02_t_lh

I got royal purple in the trans too. I think i got the same can't remember have to look at the bottle but i believe i have 75w-140 in the trans and 75w-90 in FD. works well.
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Old 06-25-2012, 08:38 PM   #8
def
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Quote:
Originally Posted by roadtrip22 View Post
I got royal purple in the trans too. I think i got the same can't remember have to look at the bottle but i believe i have 75w-140 in the trans and 75w-90 in FD. works well.
$18.00 for a quart of GL-5? No thanks.
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Old 06-25-2012, 08:44 PM   #9
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WOW, an oil thread...I'm curious as well......I need to replace the spring air in the Anakee's and replace it with summer air.....whatcha ya'll think?
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Old 06-25-2012, 08:56 PM   #10
roadtrip22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Flyboy08 View Post
WOW, an oil thread...I'm curious as well......I need to replace the spring air in the Anakee's and replace it with summer air.....whatcha ya'll think?

I'd stay away from city air who knows whats in it.
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Old 06-26-2012, 07:03 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Flyboy08 View Post
WOW, an oil thread...I'm curious as well......I need to replace the spring air in the Anakee's and replace it with summer air.....whatcha ya'll think?
Go to your nearest General Aviation airport, remove the air and fill with nitrogen...the tires will last longer and your ride will improve.


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Old 06-26-2012, 11:37 AM   #12
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Another local guy uses Red Line for his final and tranny; a 75-90 quart goes for $13 and change on line. He also changes the oil every 6K in the final. I've got my 6K coming up so I'm trying to learn from a broad spectrum here too. All of my other bikes had wet clutches so I'm learning here...

An interesting comment he made was that he uses the same weight in the tranny and if I remembered correctly he suggested not to use moly in the tranny.

I know everyone hates oil threads, but the question that I have is where you would put moly in - and leave the moly out? I'm thinking of engine, tranny, and final drive. I had thought the 600 mile service drained all of the moly out of the final drive and replaced it with a non moly lubricant. True or not?

Thanks
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Old 06-26-2012, 11:50 AM   #13
def
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WindSailor View Post

I know everyone hates oil threads, but the question that I have is where you would put moly in - and leave the moly out? I'm thinking of engine, tranny, and final drive. I had thought the 600 mile service drained all of the moly out of the final drive and replaced it with a non moly lubricant. True or not?

Thanks
Rick
When you change your FD oil the first time, you'll likely see a black smelly oil come out. The factory uses moly at time of assembly of the gears and bearings. There is also likely some moly assembly lube in the engine, especially the cam lobes and lower end bearing surfaces that remains after the engine is rotated on the test stand.

Also, modern motor oils have used moly as an EP additive for a decade or longer. Molydenum dislufide is an EP friction reducing additive that tolerates heat, shear, pressure and other forces typical in gear, chain and bearing systems.

Also, it is used as chain lube by the motorcross folks.

Finally, Honda Molypaste 60 is the preferred grease used on our driveline splines.

Now, are you going to deliberately eliminate it from your gear lubricants? I don't because it can help reduce friction and heat.
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Old 06-26-2012, 12:02 PM   #14
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I was doing some of my 6000 miles service, and I decided to change the final drive along with the engine oil.

I found a 60cc syringe and I used 3 squirts of Royal Purple 75w90. I use the same stuff in the transfer case, front and rear diffs of my Toyota.



I thought the final drive change would drop my service charge by a lot, lol. Dropped it a whole 17$.... I still don't have a GS911 to reset the light, and they said they were going to check the valves, I'm still too lazy to do that...



138$ for... nothing? lol
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Old 06-26-2012, 12:21 PM   #15
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Quote:
Now, are you going to deliberately eliminate it from your gear lubricants?.
Moly... not unless everyone suggested it for some specific reason. Schaeffer oil has a lot of moly in it and I had thought the GL5 by definition had friction modifiers in it.

I didn't know if there was a time and reason -not- to use it; other than wet clutches etc. That was the main reason for the question... and the misunderstanding of the first final drive oil change...

Thanks
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