Riding a Trike through Central America

[Catours]

latest update from Dave's blog, reporting from Panama:

Well I have received the good news with the bad news just being a part of it.

As predicted there is no ferry, the good news is that we now have yet another official date; now this is what I have been told direct from the top dogs, the 12th of November. What this means for me unfortunately is no ferry.

So what can a man do while spending extra time in Panama?

One thing that I have to be grateful is that the rain is certainly not against me. Bocas del Toro is a highlight of Panama; activities are abundant and great locations are certainly here to be found. Stayed at a very cool location called Pukalani, it is a little off the main street, but no more than a 13 minute ride from the ferry port.

Make sure you dont plan to travel to or from Bocas on Mondays, there are no ferrys, if you dont have a bike, no problem, there are many speedboat connections.

Tomorrow I will head towards towards Panama City. Boquete is not exactly a party town and should really only be visited if you are planing outdoor activities like cliff climbing and rafting to name a few. Apart from that there is nothing so incredible here.

[Catours]

top to bottom clean


airport security isn't the same everywhere


typical house in Bocas del Toro


all shiny


the police are badass here


yes its steep, but not really that steep


try avoiding this place in Bocas

[Lone Rider]

chris,
I undertsand your support, but ask why you are posting this in the S/A forum.
This is clearly a long-term ride report.

This rider will gain much more attention, if that's what you seek, when his report is done in ride reports.

What do you think?

[Catours]

Originally Posted by Lone Rider

chris,
I undertsand your support, but ask why you are posting this in the S/A forum.
This is clearly a long-term ride report.

This rider will gain much more attention, if that's what you seek, when his report is done in ride reports.

What do you think?

Sounds like a good suggestion, will the mods do this for me?

[Catours]

Dave's latest post about what's coming next...

Well the time has arrived to make a decision about where I go next?

I am in Colon, its definitely no tourist town, but would recommend it if you want to see something different.
It would not be advised that you walk around at night; unless you’ve always had a desire to get robbed or assaulted, if so Colon is a good place to start.

I am staying at the Washington Hotel, its probably the best choice for central location and security, especially if you have a bike. Rooms are decent value, and there is also a casino here which will either pay for the night or make it an expensive one; there is always someone selling women or marijuana, its a hard one to choose from.

I have also spoken to several people about the ferry that never happened: Yet.. It will happen according to everyone, this will happen sooner than later. But today I will take a walk and see if its possible to hitch a ride on a cargo or container ship? Doesnt this sound easy, well I have been told it will be nearly impossible.

Have also been told $600 is the illegal immigrant price, not cheap if this is true? For sure what I do know is that there are many different opinions here in getting to Colombia.

[Chiriqui Charlie]

I wish I had been following this thread more closely, I would have met you in Boquete and shown you more of the Highlands! There are some cool places on the Volcan side of the mountain. I am considering going to Guatamala and staying at your place for a week in October, will it be open?

[BeachGuy]

Originally Posted by Catours

Sounds like a good suggestion, will the mods do this for me?

Try this, go to the forum page where your RR is listed. Highlight your link. Right click on what you highlighted. Copy it. Go to the Ride Report Link Thread. Click on "Reply" Right click in the reply box. Paste it. Hit "Submit."

When your done is should look something like this: Catours has this one: Riding a Trike through Central America
Now if it doesn't work, don't blame me. Blame Bananaman; he's the one who showed me how almost two years ago.

His advice does not come cheap, this is what I will owe him in the future should I ever meet up with him. Not sure if I can afford to.

"If I've finished the Spaten (12 pack of beer) by now, then get me something Latin. Or pour me a rum and coke. Plenty of ice. Just enough coke to make it turn vaguely brown. There are platanos in the fridge. I'd like some fried, with some jasmine rice, and fried pork chops. And fresh mango. And another damn rum and coke! And some flan. You know how to make flan, right?" Bananaman

Good luck with the trip and water crossing.

[Catours]

Dave's latest update from the road:

Well once again time has just wizzed by.. Colombia never happened; dont feel good about saying this; but it just means that I will have to do it at a later date.

But Panama city was a great place to see, the Havana Bar in front of the Marriott Hotel is a good stop, at least for one cigar, here you can smoke and see the best girls in the city. Panama is a big “No Smoking Country”, new law back in 2008. The days for the smoker are nearly over, it’s the same in Costa Rica, new laws there also, but only introduced last month.

Casco Viejo is certainly worth a walk, its a great place to see. If you do ride in you wont be disappointed if you take the ride over the causeway. Panama City is a very impressive city, Donald Trump certainly think’s so, he has just built a big tower block here.


original tyres 245/60/15 - very rare!


tire change


time for new tires, 53,000 miles


Taxi drivers always know the way?


maybe a little more space?

[Catours]

Dave's recent update:

So after spending two days at the Royal Grand Hotel in David it was time to say goodbye to Panama.

After a swim and a good breakfast I set off towards Costa Rica. The border crossing was straight through and simple, so I thought; then after ridding for ten minutes or so in Costa Rica I thought to myself, did I check out? Meaning quite simply did I enter Costa Rica... legally. Well I went back and the answer was definately "No"

Anyway after I had my passport stamped and my trike paperwork completed I was all set again - not quite I had to have the quarantine spray done on the trike.

OK well that was good - lets get moving towards my next destination --> Drake, CR.

[Catours]

Dave's latest interesting story about mechanical issues:

Well I think that in a earlier write up I mentioned two serious problems that could mess up your tour; number one is an accident, number two is a serious breakdown or a new part requirement.

I just like to think I escaped both at the same time. Then of course being in the right place at the right time is not a fictitious saying, its a fortunate fact that sometimes we do encounter; this was mine.

I was riding on my way to Drake which is probably not a common place to go, it was a remote road and full of fauna with rich green plantations typical of Costa Rica.

I knew that my clutch was feeling weak and unresponsive and whilst messing around my attention on the road ahead was not focused, I then noticed in front of me more than one pothole; as you do, I hit the brakes, pulled in the clutch and juddered to a stop, missing the potholes but realizing my clutch was not working; my hydraulic clutch.

Two options came to mind. Continue to Drake or return to somewhere that might give me a better possibility on resolving this problem. I decided on returning to Chacarita, a small pueblo on the main road that should be my best option.

Whilst riding and feeling the clutch I knew it was not feeling very positive with what was going to be encountered, but without better options I continued to ride. Before I returned to the main road #34 I let the trike splutter and stall at the highest point to the entrance of a gas station, so to give me the possibility of a roll start for when I leave,”to go wherever I have to go”.

The only reason I stopped here was to ask for basically mechanical knowledge or information that would assist my problem, I politely interrupted two service members of the gas station, asking precisely this.

I felt a genuine moment of thought come from his face before he answered; he replied give me a moment. He takes out his phone and tries several times to make a call, for reception or other reasons it was not a easy connection. Thankfully he made the contact.

As he was talking it was more of a private conversation which was not close to me, when he cut the call he turns to me and says I know a mechanic…

Go back 1 km straight down the road on the right hand side, the road you have just come from, maybe he can help?

I just ask whats his name, he replies Luis; I thank him and leave.

The Trike crunches first gear and I go straight into a U turn and start heading back down the road, sure as was said 1km on the right was the house of Luis, with a simple hand in the air I knew this was my stop.

So this was where we would learn how fatal my problem was going to be, I slow down as much as posible in first gear and the road just allows me to do a U turn and drive down a steep short unpaved drive of 20mtrs, my instant thoughts only made me think how the fuck could I return back up this driveway without a clutch.

We exchange a handshake and he starts with a question, is this a hydraulic clutch. Yes I reply, he then opens the brake fluid case and notes its low through loss of fluid meaning, damaged tube or master cylinder.

He traces the tube and says we need to start taking stuff apart, do you want me to go ahead, at this point I felt confident this was my best option by far, yes lets do it I replied.

Within a few moments he comments how low this bike is to the ground. I instantly say I have a jack, I take it out from the rear of the trike and put it on the floor next to him. Next problem with my 4’ inch road clearance it wont go under the trike, so together we we push the front wheel up a 6’ inch wooden ramp, all set and ready to go.

It seemed within minutes he is saying your clutch tubes are fine, its the master cylinder, he makes one simple quote, it will probably be impossible to make a repair for reason of parts, this is not a standard part here, meaning Costa Rica, not referring to this little pueblo in the middle of no where.

The only option we have is to take it apart, take a look and take it from there, we both mutually agreed on this, and that is what he set to work on the removal of the master clutch cylinder.

Fifteen minutes later he had the cylinder in his hands saying - this is the problem pointing to the rubber O ring, its shot, ”All you need is a new one.” We joked together this would probably be impossible to acquire: just to add its 16:40 Saturday afternoon. I joked saying there must be hundreds of these somewhere in the world, we laughed at what we never had.

After the humor had been appreciated he said lets go to a store, we can take a look at what might be there, sure I said. I really have nothing to lose and am nearly having fun.

About 3kms from his house on the main road we pull into a small shack with a laminated roof, a kind of hardware store, Luis knows the owner well and he explains the problem and shows him the clutch cylinder with the rubber seal. The owner passes Luis a small screwdriver and he removes the seal.

For me I am thinking; this is it. The store owner pauses with a bit of thought and without making a step puts his hand under the counter and pulls out several boxes containing rubber seals.

I dont really want or need to get involved at this point, quite simply everything is pretty much out of my control, all I naturally did was smile when Luis showed me a O ring seal that was exactly the same diameter, there is nothing more important than the right size, we had it, Luis only said that he will have to reduce the thickness of the O ring, as he shugged with a confident smile. I asked the store owner for what vehicle is this for, he replied maybe a Mercedes or a Toyota, this only made the whole event a little more comical.

Only one place to go now, that was to go back modify it and fit it. So when I get told it will cost a $1, I never hesitated in buying one more just for memory sake.

So back at the house Luis makes the necessary modifications and installs the new part……

Thirty minutes later I am on my way.. Muchisimo Gracias Luis!


road damage. where, how, when?


big thanks to Luis!


Master clutch cylinder - Honda GoldWing


part of the problem

[Catours]

Nicaragua update from Dave:

So after a late start and a swim, I still had to eat and make my way to Nicaragua. A late start is nothing less than 12:30. So I am heading to the frontera of Nicaragua.

Something that you do so much more when you are travelling in hot countries is drink. You dont get time to think about having a drink; your body shouts out saying I have to DRINK now. So that what you have to do.

I stopped in Liberia about one hour from Tamarindo to get some gas, at the same time I stopped, "Ice Cold Coconuts" were being offered to me for a $1 each so I started with one, four Coconuts later with a full tank of gas I was ready to go; great stop.

I made it to the border with no problem. Both the Costa Rica and Nacaraguan sides take time, probably a two hour deal in total. It may not sound like much time but its far more than it sounds when you are there running around getting different forms and stamp approvals ect, and this is for one person without any queue. Fumigation, cancellation of insurance, buying new insurance, paying for photo copies and talking all takes time. $12 to enter Nicaragua + $12 mandatory vehicle insurance, only valid for one month.

So because of my late start I will be riding in the dark for at least one hour. I arrived in Granada around two hours of leaving the border and found a simple hostel called La Floresta, clean quite and cheap.

Granada is a good place to see, you certainly get a feel of what Nicaragua is about, its very busy with lots of activity, but nothing like a big city. It gets very busy here with a organised kind of crampedness which keeps you moving and going somewhere.

[Misery Goat]

Nic is great, proly my favorite (Guat too) country in CA.

[Catours]

more pictures from the road:


time for another swim - Manuel Antonio, CR


hey gringo! this is my beach


Can you see me?


Honda 200 CTX's in Nicaragua - this is what we run our CATours rides with


76,000 kms and still looking good!


my first picket line


I don't want trouble


a common site on Nicaraguan streets


Luis Perez - my first BAD transit cop - no gun


false fine, I never paid anything

[Catours]

Adventure colliding with strikes - Dave's latest update from the blog:

Well Granada kept me for a little more time than I expected; Granada is certainly a tourist town, lively, probably safe most of the time, cheap and attractive; although there are a few smelly places and dangerous holes to fall in, just like Central America in general.
On my leaving I got stopped by the Transit Police; ”just another routine stop”

I did absolutely nothing wrong; the first cop seemed decent, the second cop asked for my ID and license, he then says I was driving dangerous in the middle lines, ”What do you say” All I know is that I probably never said the right thing, the fucker writes me a ticket, and keeps my license, until I return with a payment slip from the nank saying I have paid, $40 fine for the offence. Never felt too good about that, but when you look back it could of always been a lot worse? It wouldnt of been so bad if I had done the crime; I was innocent. ”Who cares”

Anyway I went to the bank, paid my fine: and returned, he was still there; which was my second concern. I showed him the payment slip and he gave me my license - I continued.

My destination was still Somoto, its a destination that has to be checked out, its a big water canyon, good hiking and swimming is what its about.

No sir not today: there is a Huelga.. It means strike, the road is blocked and no-one passes, so with little option I sleep in the small pueblo called Condega, which is basically on the strike line.

Simple place, very cowboy style, its own culture and style for sure. No McDonald’s here. Only good cigars. When I wake up and talk to a few people I am informed the strike is still strong, you will not pass.

Very mixed opinions here; I can pass / I wont pass. All I do know personally is that strike lines are delicate and should be considered potentially dangerous. I stopped 100 mtrs before the big no pass-line; I was certainly speaking with the strikers like the first division or the first line of protest.

I really wanted to check out Somoto, but this situation was totally out of my control, if I turn around it will be at least a four hour ride to the other border to leave Nicaragua; and then I will have to stay in Choleteca, its a shit hole, but it will put me in a direction that is not what i want…

Should I stay or should I go?

After talking, sharing my cigar and having a bit of a laugh; the moment had arrived when I ride to the front line with two of my strikers on my trike smoking my cigars; it would of made a great picture, but unfortunately not on my camera this time.

We get told No, “OK, OK” … I truly had no great expectations, this was not my biggest problem, but within a minute I had about 100 strikers around me, its not really about me, its all about the trike. Seriously I think the whole strike line left and came to me; I was still focused on riding forward, but I was going nowhere.

Then one of my strikers waves me forward, It was a good sight, with a little gas and good clutch control I was moving towards Somoto!

[TeeVee]

tell me you meant a 40 cordoba fine! $40 = 940 cords--a very stiff fine.

p.s. 100 cords would have had you on your way...