The 'No Pissin and Moanin' DR650 Thread

[Tech23]

How many of you guys remove both beads from the same side of the rim when dismounting a tire?

Dunlop dismounting video....

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TVKzoaL8qaI

Dunlop mounting video...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IMYQ6L2jKKQ

Having all the tools used in these videos can make life easier including the Motion Pro tool that holds the bead into the drop center of the rim. There are two version of that tool so if you plan to order one make sure you order the correct one.

Tech23

[Tech23]

Originally Posted by rogor

anyone reading the rubbish from jonkol in the usual dr thread
some people...

Some call it buyers remorse, this often leads to neglect of the machine and complaining about it whether its a car, motorcycle, or whatever it may be. The good news is there are many other motorcycles to choose from.

Tech23

[BergDonk]

Originally Posted by Tech23

How many of you guys remove both beads from the same side of the rim when dismounting a tire?

Dunlop dismounting video....

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TVKzoaL8qaI

Dunlop mounting video...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IMYQ6L2jKKQ

Having all the tools used in these videos can make life easier including the Motion Pro tool that holds the bead into the drop center of the rim. There are two version of that tool so if you plan to order one make sure you order the correct one.

Tech23

Yep, been doing it this way for a long, long time.

The stand makes it easier on the body, but not essential. I use more talcum than they do, and no assembly lube, its not needed. Nor do I use a bead buddy for assembly. This is where you use the rim lock, and by starting and finishing at the rim lock you have an easier time getting the bead into the well of the rim. So in addition to what they do, start and finish at the rim lock, and/or valve stem if you have no lock. Easy 5 min job. Also get the tyres hot. If I'm not riding to warm them up, I leave them in the sun for a bit, and do it when the day is warmer if I have a choice. A HD tube will normally hold its shape without adding air, so no need for that either unless you have std tubes. I also prefer pointier tyre irons/levers. I have a Motion Pro T6 axle spanner spoon on each bike that I reshaped a bit to get a pointier tip. Only put the lever down between where the bead is outside the rim and in the well, so small chunks at a time and it'll go on easy, and you can easily get the lever under the bead because its not in contact with anything at the spot, say 2-3" at a time.

[cberard]

I may not be searching correctly so let me ask and thanks for the help...looking to get the instruments including the key ignition out of the "hole" and build a more Dakar panel on my DR650... All is easy except movng the key tumbler? I have read where you can rewire and use a different lock/key? ...but would be nice if there was a relacement plug and play key tumbler?...Not sure i am making sence...want to move the key out from stock location up and out...
Chris
Northern Idaho

[Adv Grifter]

Originally Posted by cberard

I may not be searching correctly so let me ask and thanks for the help...looking to get the instruments including the key ignition out of the "hole" and build a more Dakar panel on my DR650... All is easy except movng the key tumbler? I have read where you can rewire and use a different lock/key? ...but would be nice if there was a relacement plug and play key tumbler?...Not sure i am making sence...want to move the key out from stock location up and out...
Chris
Northern Idaho

You can move the ignition switch ... or put in a different one. But be aware of the wiring that comes into the underside of the switch and the little secret Resistor in there that is an Anti-Theft device. You need that Resistor as it feeds back into the main wiring harness and goes to the CDI box. Figuring out how to eliminate it ... is something I've not heard about.

When you pull apart the stock ignition this may make more sense to you ... or not.

[JagLite]

Originally Posted by cberard

I may not be searching correctly so let me ask and thanks for the help...looking to get the instruments including the key ignition out of the "hole" and build a more Dakar panel on my DR650... All is easy except movng the key tumbler? I have read where you can rewire and use a different lock/key? ...but would be nice if there was a relacement plug and play key tumbler?...Not sure i am making sence...want to move the key out from stock location up and out...
Chris
Northern Idaho

Sure you can move the key ignition.

You will have to do some work to remove the safety screws that hold it on that are to keep people from removing the key lock since it is the fork lock too.
Once you cut/drill/hack away the screws holding it to the upper fork clamp you can mount it anywhere the wires will reach.
Or, by extending the wires you can relocate it anywhere you want.
Of course you will NOT have a fork lock so plan an alternative parking lock.

You can use a different key ignition but you will need to wire in a correct resistor.
There is a nice write-up on here by someone who did that.

[ER70S-2]

Originally Posted by JagLite

Sure you can move the key ignition.

................................

Of course you will NOT have a fork lock so plan an alternative parking lock.

You can use a different key ignition but you will need to wire in a correct resistor.
There is a nice write-up on here by someone who did that.

Here you go, post #25.

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=635694

[TrophyHunter]

My DR was originally blue but I like the clean look of all white so I've been collecting, uh ordering off the 'net, parts for the change over. I also finally bent the stock bars so and had the ProCycle bar kit waiting, so....

New front fender, Tusk handguards, bars w/1 inch risers, pillowtop grips (managed to save my grip warmers during the transfer) and a fork service since it was all apart anyway.

I like the profile on the aftermarket fender....which was $22 shipped and bolted right up. Just had to drill for the speedo cable guide. I have a new white rear fender waiting for a few hour gap in my day.

[Bultaco206]

Originally Posted by Bultaco206

Well, I've got a lot of stuff (a lot) ordered but I've done nothing to the bike yet since I bought it last Saturday. But I did do about 40 miles of gravel on it today...what they're calling the last 80-degree day until next summer.

Had a DR guru friend (he lurks on here...thanks for your help, Paul) who's up on all the necessary DR mods help me for a day a few weeks ago. The bike really woke up motor-wise. Drilled out the fuel screw, re-jetted for the Q4, installed Ricor emulators, added external fuel filter, re-worked the neutral sending unit mount, installed new rubber (Shinko 244 test) new Renthal Jimmy Buttons, did the DR200 taillight swap, kickstand safety switch removal, upper chain roller removal, Acerbis handguards, and the rear end conversion to a simple license plate mount. This thing pulls like a tractor now right off the bottom. My Wolfman racks and Expedition bags have been shipped. And I'm playing around with a new Cee Bailey sport windscreen mounted on a spare headlight shell for quick conversions. The jury is still out on the performance of that, and now that winter has set in here in NE Iowa it will be next spring before I can figure that out.

[Emmbeedee]

Originally Posted by ER70S-2

Here you go, post #25.

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=635694

Did you know you can link to the actual post by clicking on the number on the top right of the post itself?

[ER70S-2]

Yes, I did thanks and now others do too. I wanted the OP to scroll thru the thread to see what's available in Krusty's Index.

Also thanks for your tips in the GPS and Spot threads.

[killme_quik]

Thank christ there's a newer, less monsterous DR thread... After many attempted searches through that monster, I've decided to post my question here.

Has anyone done the full top end rebuild on a DR650? I'm looking at getting the high performance top end rebuild kit from procycle as my big pig has about 25-26,000 miles on it. Is it too soon to do a rebuild?

Thanks

[dflow]

It depends on a lot of factors but I have 29k on my second DR now, the 1st one is over 32k, and neither has had any work or need for it. With basic upkeep they run without issues.

[M1Jeep]

+1, 34k miles and going strong. It's all about PMCS (preventative maintenance checks and service). "If it ain't broke, don't fix it!"

Originally Posted by dflow

It depends on a lot of factors but I have 29k on my second DR now, the 1st one is over 32k, and neither has had any work or need for it. With basic upkeep they run without issues.

[ER70S-2]

+ another: 42,400