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Old 07-05-2012, 02:39 PM   #16
sorebutt
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Joined: Jun 2008
Location: Lewiston,ID
Oddometer: 1,628
It just isn't having a steady throttle hand. The bike rotates around you when on the pegs. Hold the hand steady and the bike twist the trottle as it rotates. It only takes about 1/16" of movement to make the bike jump. I've gone up steep rocky slopes standing and you can hear the engine changing even when holding the trottle as still as possible. It is so sensitive that you can't rotate the trottle to counteract the movement of the bike. Just going around a corner and moving the thumb to turn off the turn signal is almost impossible without moving the throttle. An additional problem is the lack of spring tension on the throttle. There is so little you can't feel what the throttle is doing. I've had the web of my glove between the finger and thumb actually move the throttle when I apply the front brake.

I'm not sure how a chip that increases fuel can solve the problem. It seems to me that would make it worst. The throttle is not by wire so the only thing that makes sense to me is something like the Throttletamer that takes up cable at a slower rate.
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Old 07-05-2012, 04:46 PM   #17
itsatdm
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Location: Nor Ca.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HappyHighwayman View Post
No I haven't tried a pre-2012 model.

I'd like to go power commander route perhaps with an after market exhaust but I'm worried about killing the warranty.

Do what I did. I bought an accelerator module. A resister that plugs between the air box sensor and the ECU. Makes the computer think it is cold outside, a condition that causes it to go to a richer map. Only works when applying throttle, so a part time fix.

It leaves no record of any faults and you can remove it when taking it in for service.

There are at least 3 models that I know of and all work on the same principal. You rarely hear anything but approval. They work. Once you understand how the BMW fuel injection works and what the modules do, you will understand why. The worst thing that could happen is if the module causes such a rich mixture that it suets up the oxygen sensor or causes problems with the catalytic converter.

What they actually do is cause your ecu to richen the fuel mixture, by no more than 6 % and then only when applying throttle. I have had mine for 2 years and it has done neither.

I recently had my first shop service after expiration of warranty. The BMW computer did not detect it. The service yokels, laugh and tell you it is snake oil. I doubt any of them ride a bike.

I also recommend the G2 throttle tube. An eccentric cable wheel that requires more throttle movement to get the same result of cable pull in the first part of acceleration. Add them both and you will think you are riding a carburated bike. Not too different than the wheel that BMW adds to the throttle body to comply with European HP requirements for tiered drivers licenses, except they add a stop.
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itsatdm screwed with this post 07-05-2012 at 05:04 PM
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Old 07-05-2012, 04:48 PM   #18
JRWooden
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Joined: Jul 2008
Location: The great state of confusion
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Back in the early days of the twin there was a guy that decided to mess with the "other end" of the throttle cable and modified the cam on the throttle bodies... I can't quite remember how he did it...
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Old 07-07-2012, 11:49 AM   #19
tkent02
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Location: Littleton, CO
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He used a small piece of wire...

http://i321.photobucket.com/albums/n...s/IMG_5515.jpg

tkent02 screwed with this post 07-07-2012 at 12:09 PM
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Old 07-07-2012, 02:15 PM   #20
JRWooden
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Location: The great state of confusion
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tkent02 View Post
yeah.......... that's the ticket ... a do-dad like that ... properly secured of course seems like a simpler solution than a new throttle tube but ... only having the girlie-658 I'm good as is...

Here it is:
http://f800riders.org/forum/showthre...l=1#post342902
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Old 07-07-2012, 08:27 PM   #21
tkent02
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I wonder if BMW changed the cable pulley ratio on one end or both?
If so that should be easy to do to the older bikes.
Is the part number different?
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