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Old 06-29-2012, 08:30 PM   #1
KYMike OP
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Michigan Loop - Mixing Business with Pleasure

I spent the Winter reading ride reports from Radioman, Idahosam, dwj-Donnie, Questor & MAG, and others. Like many of you, I love the adventure, but am not in a position right now to make my own. The most I could do would be a week-long adventure, but even that's iffy. I have a hard time using vacation days on just me, and feel guilty if I leave my family for more than a weekend. However, I have a very supportive wife who knows that I need a break every once in a while, and so a plan was hatched.

I live in Kentucky, but travel to Detroit on business every couple of months. If I waited until the Summer, I could combine a business trip with a few vacation days, and create a little adventure. Thanks to this site, I got some route advice from oz97tj, Roadgoat, ejbeert (thanks guys). I planned to ride up the west side of Michigan, check out a small portion of the UP, then follow the east side down to Detroit. Not a RTW trip, but the best I can do for now.

Here's a shot of my ride, packed and ready to go...and one of yours truly.


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Old 06-29-2012, 08:51 PM   #2
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Old 06-30-2012, 05:54 AM   #3
KYMike OP
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Day 1, Sunday June 10th

My goal today was to log in many miles from Kentucky to Michigan. I had a couple of MI state parks in mind depending on how far I made it.

I hit Hwy 65 heading North for Louisville.


This guy follows me all day.


I'm feeling great, and before long I cross into Indiana.


Within 30 miles, I come across a guy with an old BMW on the side of the road. He thinks he's just low on gas, and after some side-to-side movements, starts it right up. I follow him to the next exit but don't get much of close-up shot.


I'm heading to Indianapolis, and everything is so green (especially now that everything is turning brown). At Indy I plan to take 31 north into Michigan.


Now I'm on 31. I pass an old church, but seems that business has been bad.


I also pass some type of aviation museum. The billboard leading up to is comical. It looks to have been "free" at one time, but now there's a charge.


I finally see some blue on my GPS. I'm getting closer to Lake Michigan.


Finally reach Michigan.


Saw this sign for South Haven. In the mid 80's, my family vacationed near here (Van Buren State Park) in our pop-up camper. Was so cold at night, we had to buy long-johns to sleep in. The sandy beach was nice, but nobody told me Lake Michigan was so cold!


I decide to keep going and shoot for Ludington State Park.


This guy's still with me, but I notice he's switched sides.


I finally reach Ludington State Park, and get my first views of the lake.




I ask for nice private tent site and am rewarded with this prime spot.


Yeah right….here's the view from the backside. Campers, cars, kids, and dogs everywhere. Not sure if this is normal for MI, but I'm only sleeping here one night.


I check my mileage for the day and am surprised at the amount of time in the saddle.


I walk over to the beach and learn there's a lighthouse only 1.5 miles away. Since I've been sitting for more than 8 hours today, I decide a little exercise would be good for me.


First I sit in the sand and just take it all in. Then that guilty feeling starts setting in. Here I am sitting in the sand on a beautiful day about to check out an old lighthouse, and I've left my family at home.


I accidently take this picture of the ripples in the sand. I'm no "dave6253" (your photos are incredible), but I think it's cool.


I finally reach the lighthouse, then make my way back to the tent. It's been a long day. I take a shower and crawl into my sleeping bag. Sleep comes quickly.
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Old 06-30-2012, 08:09 PM   #4
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Looks like a typical campground on the western shore. You are lucky you got the on a Sunday, forget about getting a camp site Thursday to Saturday anywhere. This last Monday my wife and I camped at Holland state park and it was packed. But Warren Dunes SP was near empty. It was our first camping trip on the bike.

Last fall we rode up to Traverse City for the colors our first multi-day trip. Four days 1200 miles.

Looking forward to your trip and to hear how the bridge crossing is.

Todd
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Old 07-01-2012, 05:37 AM   #5
KYMike OP
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I figured on a Sunday, the weekend campers would have already headed for home. What I didn't realize was that a lot of Michigan schools had just let out for the summer, so there were several families camping for the week.

I was able to check availability on-line right before I left, so I knew which locations had a few empty sites, and which ones were booked. I remember seeing Holland State Park on the map, but Hoffmaster State Park was my "at least get this far" camp site.

Day 3 has my "bridge" crossing.
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Old 07-01-2012, 06:06 AM   #6
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I live in west central Indiana and have been thinking about taking a similar excursion.

Liking your report so far. And want to let you know you must be a pretty good guy - feeling guilty about leaving the family behind. I'd say you have a pretty lucky family :)

Looking forward to reading more - stay safe!

Jay
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Old 07-01-2012, 10:59 AM   #7
KYMike OP
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Day 2, Monday June 11th

I started today with some oatmeal, my "go to" breakfast when I'm packing light. My campsite neighbor brought me a cup of coffee, and asked where I was headed. When she heard my plans for the UP, she told me to eat a fish sandwich at the Red Flannel Saloon in Paradise. I made a mental note, as that would be on tomorrow's schedule.

My plan today is to head toward Manistee where I'll get on 22 and hug the shoreline. I'll be taking the long way to Traverse City, where I'll once again get back on 31. My ultimate goal is Wilderness State Park near the Mackinac Bridge.


As I cross the river I see the old part of Manistee and decide to turn around.


As I stroll down River Street I stop to take this picture for my son. He likes these old theaters.


I see this ship as I'm leaving Manistee.


After Manistee, I hit 22 and IMMEDIATELY the riding improves. I find the first curvy roads of this entire trip. I pass through Arcadia and have to take a picture for my relatives living in Arcadia, MO.


Just after Arcadia I come to a scenic road-side park. The views are incredible.






On the viewing platform, I see a couple walking on the beach and decide to check out the zoom on my new camera. It's a Panasonic Lumix I bought mainly for the power switch. It's raised, and I can turn the camera on/off while wearing gloves.


Can't see the couple? Here's the fully zoomed-in shot.


I pass through Empire before stopping for lunch in Glen Arbor. Art's Tavern it is, and I instantly like the place. As an ADV noob (or maybe I was just really hungry), I didn't take a food picture. Actually, I didn't take any food pictures the entire trip. I was told they specialized in burgers, so I ordered a bacon cheeseburger. To my delight, they then asked me what kind of cheese I wanted. A short while later I had a great bacon pepperjack cheeseburger with hot fries and a cold tea. I was feeling pretty good again.






When I stop for this photo op, two guys ride by on a Harley and Goldwing. Due to a slow car up front, I was able to catch up with them but didn't take any pictures. I would follow them only a short way until they stopped for lunch.


I guess I was feeling too good after lunch, and didn't bother to take too many pictures. Here's a few random shots…




As I near Northport on 22, and begin to head South towards Traverse City, I notice a Harley and Goldwing on my tail. It's the same guys I was following earlier. Unfortunately I stop for gas just short of Traverse City, and they keep going. This marina was across the street from the gas station.


After Traverse City (lots of traffic), I get back on 31 heading North. I'm impressed with Charlevoix, but don't stop or take any pictures??? Eventually I turn onto 119 after Petoskey. I notice the sky looking ominous, and minutes after taking this picture, it starts to rain.


119 turns into a one-lane road and I'm loving it. Almost no other traffic, and the scenery is great.




I eventually pull into Wilderness State Park and ask for a lakeside spot. I have three to choose from, so I go for a short ride to check out my potential neighbors. I plan to camp here two nights, so I'd like a decent spot.


I choose one, and settle up with the Park Rangers before setting up my camp. When I ask about a "camp store", I'm told it's a half mile down the road. Back on the bike. I want to see if they have better food choices than the ramen and mac & cheese I brought.


I find the store, but food choices are limited. I do see a giant Snickers icecream bar in the freezer and decide I need to have dessert before dinner.


Once back at camp, I have dinner then enjoy the sunset as I have the perfect view for it.


A little later…


Last one. Time for bed now.
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Old 07-01-2012, 01:15 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KYMike View Post
I started today with some oatmeal, my "go to" breakfast when I'm packing light. My campsite neighbor brought me a cup of coffee, and asked where I was headed. When she heard my plans for the UP, she told me to eat a fish sandwich at the Red Flannel Saloon in Paradise. I made a mental note, as that would be on tomorrow's schedule.

My plan today is to head toward Manistee where I'll get on 22 and hug the shoreline. I'll be taking the long way to Traverse City, where I'll once again get back on 31. My ultimate goal is Wilderness State Park near the Mackinac Bridge.


As I cross the river I see the old part of Manistee and decide to turn around.


As I stroll down River Street I stop to take this picture for my son. He likes these old theaters.


I see this ship as I'm leaving Manistee.




I lived in Manistee for many years. I've watched quite a few movies at the old Vogue theater, and been up to the lookout in Arcadia a lot.

The old ship is a retired car ferry The Badger I think. It was about to be scrapped when it was bought and towed down to Manistee from Frankfort. Now its a museum. It's docked just a stone's throw from my mother's house.
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Old 07-02-2012, 04:49 PM   #9
KYMike OP
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Day 3, Tuesday June 12th

Wow, the night would have some extremely strong winds blowing in off the lake. I woke several times, and once went outside to make sure a tornado wasn't coming.

I awoke the next morning and had my usual breakfast of oatmeal. My plan today was to head over the Mackinac Bridge into part of the UP. I would take 75 North for a short bit, then get on 123 all the way to the Great Lakes Shipwreck Museum in Whitefish Point. Of course I needed to eat a fish sandwich at the Red Flannel Saloon in Paradise, and then head Southwest on 123 until I reached 2. Once on 2, I would hug the lake until I reached the Mackinac Bridge again.

I gassed up just before the bridge at a full-service station. I didn't realize these existed anymore. Well, I pumped my own anyway. The attendant asked whereabouts in Kentucky I was from and I replied "Elizabethtown". He immediately replied "E-town" (what the locals call it), and mentioned his time at Fort Knox back in the 60's. I inquired about the bridge fee ($4), and put four ones into my coat pocket for easy access.

As I reached the bridge, I noticed a few things. It was long. It also had two lanes in each direction: one paved, and one a steel grate. I opted to stay on the paved portion. I then noticed the wind, which was fairly steady and required me to keep the bike at a angle. I also noticed how there wasn't much to keep me from going right over the edge. I could see how a strong wind could blow the bike right into the short railing, which would in turn toss me off and over. Since it was fairly steady, I felt comfortable and took a few pictures on the way across.












Once across I reach the toll bridge and paid my $4. I thought it was funny to pay after I crossed. What if you didn't have the money, would they turn you away and let you drive on the bridge twice for free? I snapped a shot of the Upper Penninsula sign and kept going. If you'll notice the sky, it's mostly blue and sunny.


Seemingly out of nowhere it clouds up and starts to rain. The temperature also dropped. I stopped and put on my rainsuit along with another shirt.


Before long I rolled into Paradise. I found the Red Flannel Inn and saw a CLOSED sign in the window. I drove over to a gas station / convenient store and had a real "Mayberry" moment. When I asked about the Red Flannel Inn, the woman behind the register thought for a moment and said "Oh yeah, they're closed on Tuesdays". She named several other options, but I told her I really wanted fresh fish. She began asking the people around me (all locals) by first name who knew the phone number to the Fish House. They all agreed on a 5 digit number, so that must be all that's needed to call around there. After a quick call we learned of an issue at the Fish House, and couldn't eat lunch until around 1pm (it was 11:45am). They all suggested I head to the Shipwreck Museum then come back for lunch. I was impressed with how much time they spent on me, and went out of their way to help me out. I didn't need gas, so I bought a few snacks and a nifty "Paradise, MI" sticker complete with a UP outline.


The Shipwreck Museum was only 11 miles up the road, so off I went.


When looking for a parking spot (it was fairly busy), I found these two bikes. These were the guys I had run into twice the day earlier. I tracked them down (didn't get their names), and learned they were from Mississippi on a trip to see Michigan, Wisconsin, and Minnesota. These would be the last three states needed in the lower 48 for these guys. It had taken 12 years, with their first trip in 2000, and various other trips every few years.


You could walk around for free (I'm cheap like that), but I paid the $13 fee to see the actual museum and other buildings.






In the museum, the key exhibit was the bell from the Edmund Fitzgerald. Once I saw it, the song started going through my head. If you're not old enough, you won't know what I mean. In another building they show a 15 minute video of the recovery of the bell. The Fitzgerald sank in 1975. In 1995 a team dove to the ship, removed its bell, and placed a new bell engraved with the names of the 29 lost.








After an hour at the museum, I was ready for my fish lunch. As I took a parting shot, I noticed the sky had cleared. It was nice out again.


I reached the Fish House in short order, and it was exactly what I expected. Small, average looking joint that spent more time focused on their food than their outward appearance. When I entered there was an older couple in front of me, but nobody else. When nobody came to the front counter after a few minutes, I went into the kitchen looking for help. A woman finally came out and suggested their most popular meal: Fish, fries, and cole slaw. When I asked if it was pretty good she replied "These fish were swimming 3 hours ago". That was good enough for me.

The older couple and I all ordered the 2-piece meal and took a seat. They were from San Jose, CA and were on a 6-week road trip. Like the bikers from Mississippi, they were checking off this part of the country as well. Before our meals arrived, a young couple came in, waited a few minutes (again nobody to help them), then left. When our meals arrived, the waitress informed me they had added an extra piece because the fish was on the small side. I couldn't tell, but ate it all the same. One word...delicious. I felt bad for the young couple who left, and may never know what they missed. The older folks mentioned the Tahquamenon Falls, which was where I was headed next.


From my direction, you reach the Lower Falls first. I stopped and took a few pictures. I'm not sure why, but I was surprised to see people fishing below the falls.










I then headed to the Upper Falls. The trail splits into two, giving you two viewing options. I went to the right for the first view.








The other path gives you this view.




Back on the bike I notice just how beautiful it is (no rain), but it's quite windy.


I notice a straight road on my GPS and get excited. It's a rarity in Michigan to find such a straight road and I feel compelled to document it with a photo.


I then have two run in's with nature, both good. As I'm driving down this straight stretch of road I see a huge bird flying towards me directly above the road. As it flys over me I notice its white head and tail. Wow, a bald eagle. Probably only the fifth one I've seen outside of a zoo. A while later a whitetail fawn (maybe all of 30 lbs.) is standing next to the road with one foot on the blacktop. I'm hoping it doesn't cross in front of me, and it doesn't, scurrying back into the woods. I haven't seen one that small or spotted in a while.

I pass through a town and see that the temperature is 54 degrees in the sunny afternoon. That's a far cry from the 96 degrees in Southern Michigan on Sunday when I arrived.


123 ends at 28, where I head West for a few miles before taking 117 South to 2. I stop at a road side park for a few lake photos and see a nice BMW parked. I then see a guy face down in the grass. I call out to him, but he doesn't respond. He's either dead or sleeping (hopefully sleeping). Anyone recognize that bike? The keys were in the ignition and I thought about swapping bikes with him, but I figured we should at least talk about it first.






An older couple was at the park as well, so we took turns taking pictures for each other. After seeing the ship in my picture, I zoom in for a close up.




As I continue on 2, it is really windy. If you look at the trees in the next two pictures, you'll see what I mean.




Another water shot…


I stop at another road side park, this one has a view of the Mackinac Bridge. It's really windy, and again you can see it in the trees and the white caps on the water. I begin to wonder if my tent is still staked to the ground. Afterall, it's just on the other side of this water feeling the same wind. It didn't blow away last night, but that might have been due to the 180 lb. anchor sleeping inside. Today it just has the rest of my gear. I decide my good neighbors will at least collect my belongings if they blow loose and into the campground trees.






When I reach the Mackinac Bridge the wind is howling. I pay my fee and begin to cross. The wind is not only 10x stronger than in the morning, it's terribly inconsistent. My bike is blown all over the place, and I notice in my mirrors people behind me are scared to pass. Eventually some of them do, but it's "white knuckle" for both of us. Finally I reach the other side and head back to my camp site. Needless to say, I have no pictures of this crossing.

I reach my camp site and am pleasantly surprised to see my tent still in place. My neighbor claims he didn't touch it, so I walk around it and step on all of the tent stakes one more time, making sure they're as buried in the sand/soil as possible. I notice my upper body really hurts, and figure it was the tense crossing of the bridge. I check my daily stats.


As I take my riding gear off, I notice just how cold it feels with the wind blowing. I've been showering every night, and decide to do so before dinner. When I return, I'm freezing but still need to cook dinner. It's too windy to light my stove, and I briefly consider cooking in my tent. I know that's a dangerous idea, so I take my stove and food to the bathroom. I don't feel comfortable cooking in the Men's room, so I go into one of the showers. There were 6 individual showers, so nobody needed to see or know what I was doing. I cooked my ramen then added some nasty "pouch" chicken. It wasn't too bad, like a big bowl of chicken noodle soup. I carried this into my tent and out of the wind. After dinner I pack up all that I can (again very cold) before retreating to my tent. I decide not to cook breakfast in the morning in favor of a quick get away. Back in the tent, I read a while using my headlamp and get that nice and comfy feeling that comes from an air mattress, down sleeping back, and clean dry clothes.

A while later I crawl out of my tent for a few sunset pictures and am again rewarded.






Tomorrow will be my last partially fun day before having to work.
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Old 07-02-2012, 05:09 PM   #10
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Great report Mike...wish I had stumbled on it when you first posted. Glen Arbor is an area I know well and there are a few awesome roads there made for a motorcycle. Port Oneida is a really cool historical village which should be on your list if you ever make it back. There is also a scenic one lane road drive near the dunes which is worth the detour too. As you head down the east side of the state, there are a few attractions to see but I recommend a detour on River Road near Oscoda, MI. Some info below. Message me with your itinary and i could make some other recommendations also. I will be following you report.
River Road Scenic Byway

The 22 mile River Road Scenic Byway parallels the historic and beautiful AuSable River. Enjoy abundant wildlife, lush forests and breathtaking vistas from high banks along the river. There are stops at the Lumberman's Monument Visitor Center, Iargo Springs, Eagle's Nest Overlook and Canoer's Memorial. The byway offers overlooks, boardwalks, hiking trails and plenty of photo taking opportunities. Fishing, camping, and snowmobiling accessible along the route.
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Old 07-03-2012, 10:19 AM   #11
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Nice report Mike I'm enjoying the photos! Looking forward to more
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Old 07-03-2012, 03:06 PM   #12
KYMike OP
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Thanks for the positive comments.

Too bad nobody has identified the guy on the BMW.

Not too many more "good" photos. The west side of Michigan (and the UP) are really beautiful. I didn't have enough time built into my trip to fully enjoy it. I need to add my trip down the South side, then final ride by to KY. Maybe tonight.
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Old 07-03-2012, 05:18 PM   #13
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Thanks for posting. That's an area on my list to see.
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Old 07-03-2012, 05:24 PM   #14
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Awsome post i love living here!
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Old 07-03-2012, 05:32 PM   #15
KYMike OP
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Day 4, Wednesday June 13th

I'm up early, and catch a sunrise similar to the sunsets I've been enjoying.




Since I'm not cooking breakfast, I pack up fairly quickly and quietly exit the campground (my neighbors are still sleeping). The V-strom with stock exhaust is pretty quiet. It's so early I'm concerned the gas station I used the day before might not be open yet. I should have gassed up at the end of the ride yesterday. Then I remember the "HOLY CRAP" feeling crossing the Mackinac Bridge and remember why I didn't stop for gas (I was ready to stop for good). The gas station is open, so I top off and head South on 23.


Hwy 23 is smooth, and by the color of the blacktop, has recently been resurfaced. It's an easy going road with minimal traffic (of course it's still early). I get my first views of Lake Huron and snap a few photos.






After about an hour and a half, I stop at McDonald's in Rogers City for breakfast. I'm cold and I'm hungry. I order an Egg McMuffin meal complete with hashbrown and coffee. I then add a breakfast burrito since I'm hungry. I'm usually not a coffee drinker, unless it's from "Four Bucks" (I mean Starbucks). Even at Starbucks I get a Mocha, which has as much chocolate and whip cream as it does coffee. And I only get those every couple of months. Why do I go to such lengths to describe my limited coffee drinking habit? Because the McDonald's coffee tasted terrible. I kept looking around at the old people (older than me) to see if anyone else was having the same experience. Nope....everyone else seemed to be drinking it up just fine. Must have been me.

After about an hour at McDonald's, I geared up and left. The bank across the street showed the temperature was 53 degrees. I wonder what it was when I started.


I come to Alpena and take a few pictures of their water tower and a church. If you can't tell, I like the beauty of nature, and the architecture of buildings (preferably old buildings).








This day's a little different than the others. At the end of this day I'll be checking into a hotel, where my co-worker will greet me with my laptop and I'll play "catch-up" on e-mails for several hours. I'm thinking of this as I come to a road side park. It's a good opportunity to enjoy a last bit of my short vacation.




After a couple of pictures, I head down to the beach. Not sure if you Michiganders call it the beach or just the shoreline, but if it's sandy, I call it a beach.

I take a picture to the North...


Then the South.


The sun feels good and the sand is soaking up the rays. I look back at my bike and notice a nice place to lay down. I lay in the sand, and the warmth from the sun and sand feels good. I realize I could easily fall asleep here, so I quickly get up and head back to the bike.




As I approach the bike I hear a crunch and feel something under my boot. I look down to see my ear buds on the ground. I had set them on my seat, but obviously they fell off. I use them as ear plugs to reduce road noise, but also listen to music on the highway. Not a big deal, but kind of dumb move.

I see another old building as I pass through either Au Gres or Omer (I'm not sure). By now my mind is really thinking about work.


I eat lunch in Standish, then leave 23 behind for Hwy 75 (towards Saginaw).


I don't take anymore pictures as I make my way to the Embassy Suites in Southfield. After I check in, I park the bike in the parking lot where it's easily visible by the front desk. I take my panniers and top case into my room, and unpack. My camping gear gets aired out over night. But I'm concerned the cleaning folks will complain if the see what I've done to their room, so I pack it up the next morning.

My mileage for the day.


After cleaning up e-mails, I spend the next two days meeting with customers. I plan to leave Detroit Friday afternoon after my last meeting.

More on that in my next (and final) installment.
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