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Old 08-09-2012, 09:25 AM   #16
LaurelPerryOnLand
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Joined: Jun 2009
Location: Denver, CO
Oddometer: 3,475
Let's start a NEW tradition at ADV...

You post more than 1,500 posts...you need to provide ONE (1) pictorial every couple years about a maintenance project you've done.

We'd all be smarter and wallets thicker...only temporarily until savings are used to buy more farks.

Any volunteers?

BTW...great job manfromthestix!
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Old 08-09-2012, 09:53 AM   #17
manfromthestix OP
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Aw shucks, thanks ya'll! I love (successfully ) doing service and maintenance on my bike and hadn't seen this little task written up so thought I'd photo-document. It literally took less than 45 minutes even with taking photos and scrambling to beat the rain.

If you want to easily save some more money, you need to swap your own tires. I did a thread about that some time ago, maybe that will help some folks:

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=148614

I just added a post about my latest tire choice to that post - got tired of expensive Tourances that cupped and wobbled after 3000 miles so tried something new and have been very pleased.

Take care!

Doug
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Old 08-20-2012, 09:22 PM   #18
Jack Attack
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Seal

Awesome pictures!

Where did you purchase the seal?

I plan to change the leaking seal on my 2001 1150GS. Was looking for the best place online to purchase one.

What was the cost of your seal?

-Jack
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Old 08-21-2012, 11:50 AM   #19
Jack Attack
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Best price I can find is $31.27.

Part # 33127663482.

I did a search and found some guys purchasing them for $18, but that was back in 2005.
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Old 08-27-2012, 08:35 PM   #20
Minnesota
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Thanks for the very timely thread!

I stopped at a buddy's house tonight to pick up his Twinmax and while we were BS-ing in his driveway I noticed some oil on my rear tire. So after 83,000 miles I have finally experienced a FD problem. I was actually kind of stoked.

Now I see this thread and it looks pretty cheap and easy to fix. I'll be ordering my seal tomorrow and the thing should be fixed by the weekend. Just in time for the arrival of my new-to-me RP2 pants!
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Old 08-28-2012, 10:57 AM   #21
Minnesota
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jack Attack View Post
Best price I can find is $31.27.

Part # 33127663482.

I did a search and found some guys purchasing them for $18, but that was back in 2005.

That's about what I paid from Max BMW. I also got some other doo-dads and shipping cost me $12.00. The other stuff was light and small, so shipping was a little high, in my opinion. We'll see how fast it gets here.
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Old 09-11-2012, 01:27 PM   #22
manfromthestix OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Minnesota View Post
That's about what I paid from Max BMW. I also got some other doo-dads and shipping cost me $12.00. The other stuff was light and small, so shipping was a little high, in my opinion. We'll see how fast it gets here.
Sorry I didn't respond sooner, I haven't looked at this thread in a while. I got my crown seal from Bob's BMW in Jessup, Maryland. I think it was around $30 shipped to my door and it got here in less than 24 hours . I've ordered from Bob's many times and they have outstanding service.

Doug
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Old 09-11-2012, 01:30 PM   #23
manfromthestix OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LaurelPerryOnLand View Post
You post more than 1,500 posts...you need to provide ONE (1) pictorial every couple years about a maintenance project you've done.

We'd all be smarter and wallets thicker...only temporarily until savings are used to buy more farks.

Any volunteers?

BTW...great job manfromthestix!
Man, I'm up an my ADVrider karma then! I just posted a thread about a brake failure and replacing the lines with Stainless Steel lines. I was skeert when I realized how bad the lines had gotten and I didn't have a clue until the rear brake failed.

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=825120

Doug
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Old 10-19-2012, 10:30 AM   #24
skwatr
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Thanks for your great post! Im in the same boat but lucky for you your seal leaked enough for you to catch it before the bearing failed. I just noticed oil on the rear tire and felt and heard vibration noise.

Thanks to your post I followed, I was about to run down and buy the shaft seal (33127663482) $35.00 for my 02 r1150 gsa, 50K miles.

Had a brief moment of clarity. Pulled the seal and found bearing (33121242210) $94.00



Thanks to vintagerider again.

will update as simple project escalates.
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Old 10-19-2012, 10:39 AM   #25
def
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Quote:
Originally Posted by skwatr View Post
Thanks for your great post! Im in the same boat but lucky for you your seal leaked enough for you to catch it before the bearing failed. I just noticed oil on the rear tire and felt and heard vibration noise.

Thanks to your post I followed, I was about to run down and buy the shaft seal (33127663482) $35.00 for my 02 r1150 gsa, 50K miles.

Had a brief moment of clarity. Pulled the seal and found bearing (33121242210) $94.00



Thanks to vintagerider again.

will update as simple project escalates.
That'll buff right out....you'll be fine.




Boy, when the old crown wheel bearings fail, they really look nasty.

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Old 10-19-2012, 11:46 AM   #26
H96669
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Ouch...! I have 3 of them drives, to practice possible roadside replacements, I have opened one of them all the way. Bearing was easy to remove, used a very cheap small puller, may even be a 3".Small enough anyway that I can pack it with the other tools and my spare bearing/seal.

Had to modify the jaws a little to grab the bearing but 5 minutes on the angle grinder got me what I wanted. Then a centering bushing as the puller wanted to walk a little. Wouldn't come out cold as I suspected,and still wouldn't come out at the recommended temperature so went over that and pulled as it cooled then it came out easy with that cheap puller.

Already done the input bearing/seal/sleeve. Next will be to practice measuring the shim and preload. Not that I want to do that measuring on the road, I would just install the bearing and take my chances, should get me home away from the dealers/$$$$ and downtime and THAT is what I want.

That was last winter....me learning the intricacies of them drives and reading a few manuals. Put the learning project on hold for the summer but will get back to it soon.

Go watch the video, sorry don't have my link here but someone may post it from the K1200LT forum.



Cheap puller from HF or for us Canadians Princess Auto. Centering bushing....I just found one in my not-so-junk hardware.

Works well for $10.00 or so.





Worth the $10.00 just so I could grind it to fit. Not something I was willing to do with my better pullers, but also did not have any that would have worked well with that. Spending over $100.00 for the specialized bearing separator/puller, certainly wasn't worth it just for practices and......too big to pack under the seat for that "just in case" moment when I may have to do it under a shade tree.

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Old 10-19-2012, 12:10 PM   #27
Mrmerlin
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thanks for posting these great pictures and tutorial.

For the OP I would suggest to get a new set of Speigler stainless brake lines, your oiginal rubber hose will fail
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Old 10-19-2012, 12:16 PM   #28
SJSharkfan
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Preemptive strike?

My '02 1150 Adv has 57000 miles on it. A few other seals and parts have worn out and/or failed.

Seems like cheap insurance just to replace it BEFORE it fails.

Should I not worry and carry a spare or just do it now.
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Old 10-19-2012, 02:26 PM   #29
def
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SJSharkfan View Post
My '02 1150 Adv has 57000 miles on it. A few other seals and parts have worn out and/or failed.

Seems like cheap insurance just to replace it BEFORE it fails.

Should I not worry and carry a spare or just do it now.
Ya know, this will be debated for years after I'm gone so, I'll give you my opinion on repairs before failures.....

DON'T DO IT!

Seals do wear with time but, the seals we have all over our boxer GSes are in reality pretty high quality. The seals in my 1995 Ford don't leak and they are all OE.

So, I say, don't fix what isn't broken 'cause your fix may bring on a failure due you your inability to do it right.

If you must remove the hub seal from the FD, I would make sure the area the seal rides on is prepared by applying emery cloth to the area before installing the new seal. This goes for any seal in a rotary application.
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Old 10-19-2012, 02:28 PM   #30
def
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Quote:
Originally Posted by H96669 View Post
Ouch...! I have 3 of them drives, to practice possible roadside replacements, I have opened one of them all the way. Bearing was easy to remove, used a very cheap small puller, may even be a 3".Small enough anyway that I can pack it with the other tools and my spare bearing/seal.

Had to modify the jaws a little to grab the bearing but 5 minutes on the angle grinder got me what I wanted. Then a centering bushing as the puller wanted to walk a little. Wouldn't come out cold as I suspected,and still wouldn't come out at the recommended temperature so went over that and pulled as it cooled then it came out easy with that cheap puller.

Already done the input bearing/seal/sleeve. Next will be to practice measuring the shim and preload. Not that I want to do that measuring on the road, I would just install the bearing and take my chances, should get me home away from the dealers/$$$$ and downtime and THAT is what I want.

That was last winter....me learning the intricacies of them drives and reading a few manuals. Put the learning project on hold for the summer but will get back to it soon.

Go watch the video, sorry don't have my link here but someone may post it from the K1200LT forum.



Cheap puller from HF or for us Canadians Princess Auto. Centering bushing....I just found one in my not-so-junk hardware.

Works well for $10.00 or so.





Worth the $10.00 just so I could grind it to fit. Not something I was willing to do with my better pullers, but also did not have any that would have worked well with that. Spending over $100.00 for the specialized bearing separator/puller, certainly wasn't worth it just for practices and......too big to pack under the seat for that "just in case" moment when I may have to do it under a shade tree.

Are your sure that crown wheel bearing is bad?

It looks good from here.
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