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Old 09-15-2007, 06:21 AM   #256
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Originally Posted by atgreg
ha bloody BMW luggage !!! they still havent got it right after all these years
G'Day Greg,

To be fair the luggage had seen some past abuse and once I bolstered the Gobi's with some straps they were good as gold. I still like the idea of soft saddlebags though for extended dirt work though.

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Old 09-17-2007, 04:39 AM   #257
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Just as life on the Gibb River road was starting to make sense, we were back on the bitumen after 700km's of dirt and headed for Derby. By this time the heat was radiating off the black stuff and all I could think of was the reflection of a sinking sun on the Indian Ocean. Unfortunately, in their wisdom, the local fire brigade in Broome decided on a controlled burn that afternoon which ended up getting out of control and closing the only road in or out of the place for a few hours.


Still keen to see the sunset in a suitable fashion, Rod asked around and with a GPS to lead us astray we followed a succession of backroads that led us to the beach.




While we stopped to ponder a suitable entry on the behemoth's, one of the locals stopped for a chat and was quick to warn against the beach run south to Broome at anything less then low tide. Apparently there is a freshwater swamp along the way and neither of us fancied a spot of quicksand for the afternoon. On a positive note the lifting smoke and turquoise waves made for an incredible sunset.



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Old 09-27-2007, 06:30 AM   #258
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With the road into town still closed shut and our devious diversion plan looking like a fizzer, we tried to capitalise on the GPS's local knowledge and some patchy mobile coverage to find a campsite for the night. 11 calls later we had what appeared to be the last unpowered campsite in Broome booked and we where on our way. Our hard work was in vein though. When the road finally opened and we made our way to the caravan park a closed sign crossed the glass entry door and despite seeing the staff as clear as day at the counter inside, we couldn't seem to raise their attention. Well, actually we did but it would appear as though they really didn't care. Time for plan B, Actually make that C. My original plan was to camp with the Dalby Safari contingent but by now it was late and I figured they would be well into service and sleep mode so we ended up finding the last two beds in town, at the Kimberly Club backpackers.


Turned out to be a pretty good setup really and when the locals told us that Broome, with a regular population of 14,000 was at capacity due to the tourist season and was in fact host to 70,000 people at present we were thankful for the bed and warm shower. We were increasingly grateful after stories of the local bush camping areas being frequented by an irrate local with a machine gun . Now I know the truth doesn't always get in the way of a good story, but by sunrise the next morning it was time to head for solitude of clear skies and the rolling dunes of the Great Sandy Desert.

Our dawn tour of the beaches was thwarted by a thick mix of fog and smoke that closely resembled pea and ham soup, so we quietly made our way out of town as part of the Safari convey. After passing a portion of the field busily preserving knobbies on the extended transport (probably the only time in recent history that a BM has overtaken a KTM in the Safari) I spotted the start of the first competitive and went for a sticky beak.

Dave Law from Dalby on the gas, the race face is that of a determined man. I was sorry to find out later in the week that his bid for a finishers medal ended prematurely .


As luck would have it the Safari competitors criss-crossed their way down the highway so it was easy to catch up on the action if you knew what to look for.





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Burren Rider screwed with this post 09-27-2007 at 03:50 PM
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Old 09-27-2007, 06:48 AM   #259
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We finally caught up with Warren and Arti at the Sandfire Roadhouse where I wandered around the control point and wondered why I wasn't here in another capacity. Money and talent I guess, or a lack thereof. Meanwhile it was all too much for Rod as a former competitor, he was keen to keep going and avoid a potentially large entry fee in 2008. For the first time on the trip we were travelling apart with an agreement that I would catch up later on.

A little further down the road I stopped for a mouldy sandwich (it's good to find these things at the start rather than the finish of a meal) and marvelled at the speed of the front runners. Grabham had left the Sandfire Roadhouse after me, completed a competitive section and then managed to pull into the next control point a minute or two after I did. The strange part is that I had been sitting on 120km/hr down a straight piece of tar for well over 100km . Bugger me that is fast. When Pilbara (from Advrider) pulled in soon after I will admit to a small tinge of envy over the migthy Super Enduro. It was short lived though, it was time to cover some ground and the rest of the day passed in a blur of heat, changing colours and iron ore trains longer than you could possibly imagine.






I called Rod south of Karratha only to find that he had gotten a little carried away on a long stretch and run out of fuel. He diverted off the highway to hopefully get a top up when I flew by and was now 70km's south of where he decided to call it a day. In a strange twist of fate, Rod the established BM rider, ended up in a motel at the coast, while I stuck to my Suzuki heritage and cooked some pasta on the grass outside a Donga at the Fortesque River Roadhouse .
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Old 09-27-2007, 07:04 AM   #260
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Early the next morning, our outstanding communication skills were highlighted again as Rod flew past the Roadhouse just as I was heading up to the main road to wait for him. In our usual organised fashion Rod thought I was already gone and was going like a cut snake. I wound the BM up for the next ten minutes but it was too late. He was gone and the next time I would see him was at Coral Bay later that afternoon.

Travelling solo once again, I pondered the world as the road rolled on. While I find the tar a dull substitute for a winding trail, it's amazing the level of clarity that comes with a desert landscape and a fast bike.

With a short day today, I took a few back tracks before heading for the beach at Ningaloo Reef.








I finally caught up with Rod in time for a late lunch at Coral Bay. After a week in the desert, an opportunity to hire some fins and a snorkel was too hard to pass up. While the coral isn't as colourful there as it's Eastern counterparts, the proxomity of neon parrot fish and a small reef merely metres from the beach made for a great afternoon's swim.

A walk to the pub in the evening freshness of a coastal breeze scored us fish and chips for dinner to top off a great day on the road.

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Old 09-27-2007, 08:29 AM   #261
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cant find words, hence the smileys.
/thierry
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Old 09-27-2007, 03:51 PM   #262
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Thanks Thierry, good to hear you are enjoying the thread

Cheers,

Danny
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Old 09-27-2007, 05:23 PM   #263
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Nice pics Danny. I'm off to Kalbarri with the kids tomorrow. I'll have to check this thread again in a week.

Andrew.
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Old 10-09-2007, 02:59 AM   #264
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so, no more ?
okay, I know, that's not fair.
we win over kiwi and you lost over brits....
But who cares !?
Let's have fun with bikes !
bring the picts !
/thierry
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Old 10-09-2007, 04:08 AM   #265
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Great thread!

Thanks for sharing the pics and words. You sure are taking advantage of where you live. What tires are on the BMW?
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Old 10-09-2007, 03:04 PM   #266
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Old 10-17-2007, 11:19 PM   #267
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Originally Posted by Eaglebeak


Nice pics Danny. I'm off to Kalbarri with the kids tomorrow. I'll have to check this thread again in a week.

Andrew.
G'Day Andrew,

Sorry to take so long to reply. It was great meeting you and the other Advriders in Perth. I have read that Kalbarri is pretty impressive, hope you had a great trip with the family

Cheers,

Danny
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Old 10-18-2007, 12:02 AM   #268
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so, no more ?
G'Day Thierry,

Sorry for the delay, theres isn't much more to tell though.

The next couple of days were spent following coastal roads and tracks before making our way into Perth on a wet and very windy afternoon. We met Andrew, Paves & Squilly for dinner before catching a flight home at some ungodly hour.

I figure it is best to tell the rest of the story in pictures.....

It sure gets blowy on the west coast, even the tree's secumb to the prevailing breezes.


We lucked out at Dongara with a Motel room right on the beach, within walking distance of the pub too .




Sea weed piles up quick in the west.


We found some great coastal tracks to the north of the Pinnacles.






The Pinnacles themselves were well worth a look, highlighted by the overcast light.






And to finish off, I present one of the many snake encounters of the week. At least this one didn't spring 2 feet into the air like the brown snake at the Coral Bay caravan park.


Cheers,

Danny
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Old 10-18-2007, 03:17 AM   #269
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Laugh

Danny,
what IS it with you and snakes ??!!
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Old 10-18-2007, 03:24 AM   #270
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You never fail to put up a good post, Danny, plus you take a mean photo. I`ve always enjoyed your reports. It`s a pity for us that you don`t get a chance to get away as much as you used to.
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