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Old 07-10-2012, 12:12 PM   #1
ChristianJS OP
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75 r90/6, lost turn signals, horn and brake light

I got the bike running great, but i seem to have lost front and rear turn signals, brake light and horn. I seem to have found that there are fuses in the headlight bucket, but with the fairing, it seems tough to access. all wiring under tank and so forth looks fine. The connector where the wires join near batter has juice too. Any ideas?
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Old 07-10-2012, 12:15 PM   #2
JustinP
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Check your ground connections if the fuses are good.
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Old 07-10-2012, 12:26 PM   #3
ChristianJS OP
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Any tips to removing S fairing. Removing the front turn signals seems to be the tough part
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Old 07-10-2012, 12:48 PM   #4
chasbmw
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If it is a BMW S fairing, just remove the top mounting arms and rotate the fairing around the front indicator stalks.

This should work if you are careful.

You have just realized my people with S fairings often relocate the fuses out of the headlamp shell.

To totally remove the fairing you have to remove the front indicators and very carefully stretch each side of the fairing over the indicator stalks, having removed the indicator lights first!
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Old 07-10-2012, 12:50 PM   #5
ChristianJS OP
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makes sense, that is kind of what i was thinking but I was not sure if there was enough clearance on the bottom
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Old 07-10-2012, 03:21 PM   #6
Horsehockey
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I have an S fairing on my 1975 /6. You don't have to remove or adjust the fairing at all. Instructions: Stand in front of the bike. Place two thumbs on top of headlamp lens. Push. Don't worry. Tilt headlamp upward until you can access bottom of headlamp chrome ring. Using big flathead screwdriver and thin rag to prevent scratching, pop off headlamp ring, lens and reflector (one piece) separating the bottom of the ring from the bucket. Now tilt lamp back down a little to ease the lens and reflector out the front of the S fairing. Gently set lens on front fender. You now have full access to the bucket. Get good at this and it takes less than five minutes.

To reinstall, locate chrome ring in the notch in the top of the bucket, then POP the ring back onto the bucket. If you have the rubber seal that seals the airgap between the lens and the fairing, you'll have to remount that from inside the fairing.
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Old 07-11-2012, 10:38 AM   #7
ChristianJS OP
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great. thank you. I tracked it to a bad fuse, replaced it, put it all back together, and everything stopped working again. This will speed up the process when I go back in today. Where in VT are you?
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Old 07-11-2012, 11:04 AM   #8
Horsehockey
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ChristianJS View Post
great. thank you. I tracked it to a bad fuse, replaced it, put it all back together, and everything stopped working again. This will speed up the process when I go back in today. Where in VT are you?
Everything STOPPED working? In this case, the bike is a total loss and you should arrange disposal at my home located in Rutland. I offer this service at no charge. Sorry it didn't work out.
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Old 07-11-2012, 11:41 AM   #9
ChristianJS OP
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yup, total loss. all this after I rebuilt carbs, flushed tank, replaced lines, brake job, etc. I will dump it in your driveway on my way to the Stowe car show in august
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Old 07-11-2012, 12:00 PM   #10
Horsehockey
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Are you saying you replaced a blown fuse and it blew again or is everything good now? If it blew again, be advised that airhead horns are notorious for blowing the 8 amp fuses. The horn draws too much current....especially if there's lots of resistance from corroded connections. My horn hasn't been blowing the fuse since I cleaned up the connections, but then again, I pretty much don't use the little "beep beep" horn for anything other than an occasional response to a little kid waving at me from their yard.
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Old 07-11-2012, 12:19 PM   #11
ChristianJS OP
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it blew after about 5 test honks on the horn. I'm thinking that I will replace the fuse, clean horn connections and then only use it for emergencies. You saved me some serious time with headlight removal tips. thank you
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Old 07-11-2012, 12:41 PM   #12
Horsehockey
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ChristianJS View Post
it blew after about 5 test honks on the horn. I'm thinking that I will replace the fuse, clean horn connections and then only use it for emergencies. You saved me some serious time with headlight removal tips. thank you
Glad to help. You've learned at least three things:
1. When your lights and/or voltmeter go suddenly wonky, suspect #1 is fuse;
2. The ability to access the fuses without disassembling the fairing is a very handy skill....especially if you're on a road trip and parked on the shoulder in 98 degree heat; and
3. OEM airhead horns put a real load on the circuits (and the fuse). If it were mine, I'd use a little rat tail file on the fuse clips in the bucket, I'd shine up the fuse ends, I'd apply dielectric grease to both, then install fuses. Then I'd use an abrasive on the horn connectors to get 'em really clean and apply dielectric grease there too. As mentioned above, this seems to have allowed me to use the horn from time to time without the auto-fuse-blow feature.
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Old 07-12-2012, 11:26 AM   #13
ChristianJS OP
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strange, now when I went to put the fuse in and turn the bike on, it popped immediately. any ideas? must be a short somewhere. THe strange thing is that at least the blinkers and things would work for a while before the fuse popped
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Old 07-12-2012, 01:40 PM   #14
Horsehockey
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Time to go to the electrical experts. I couldn't find my way from the left side of a wiring diagram to the right side without hitting a dead end.

If it were mine? I'd disconnect the horn entirely, put a new fuse in, and turn the ignition switch on again. If you have all signals and no blown fuse, pretty good chance you've isolated the problem to the horn.
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Old 07-13-2012, 12:23 PM   #15
ChristianJS OP
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after looking thru some diagrams, turns out I had a couple of wires crossed on the ignition switch. I cleaned everything up and soldered in a 10amp blade fuse.
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