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07-12-2012, 05:35 PM
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#1 |
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Studly Adventurer
Joined: May 2011
Oddometer: 511
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Foot peg placement
I see a few threads/post where people are moveing the foot peg placement on
the older twin shock bikes... I have a Cota 348 I'm rebuilding.. I have mounted a set of wide DRC pegs on the standard Montesa frame mounts...Before I have it powder coated I'm wondering if there would be a benifit in moveing the pegs & if so , where to how far down /back..? Moveing them will require welding plates on the frame Heres where they sit at the moment... looking at a few bikes the foot pegs seem to be more rearwards behined the swing arm pivot.... ![]() By petenz at 2012-07-12
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Here.... my XR250 leaner side car build http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=716993 Pete-NZ screwed with this post 07-12-2012 at 05:42 PM |
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07-12-2012, 07:06 PM
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#2 |
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Studly Adventurer
Joined: Oct 2011
Location: nm
Oddometer: 774
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Personally I prefer the bikes the way they were. I switch from modern to vintage and have lots of time on both. Granted the old bikes have a very high peg location, which can feel awkward, but I do not think it really hinders the score if you are riding true vintage. If you are trying to compete at a different level than a few mods could be worthwhile. What these bikes were capable of is amazing compared to all the `modern` bikes.
Curious as to what the foot pegs came from, or fitment? |
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07-12-2012, 07:20 PM
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#3 |
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Studly Adventurer
Joined: May 2011
Oddometer: 511
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The pegs are DRC - D48-02-101.
KTM 125 - 525 , 1998 on. KTM 950 Super Enduro. KTM 990 Adventure. I had to drill the cota hole to 10mm & do a bit of grinding to get them to fit..
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Here.... my XR250 leaner side car build http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=716993 Pete-NZ screwed with this post 07-12-2012 at 07:40 PM |
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07-12-2012, 07:25 PM
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#4 |
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Studly Adventurer
Joined: Oct 2007
Location: WA USA
Oddometer: 865
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I would take the size of the rider into account when considering peg placement. I'm over 6' tall and relocated pegs make a big difference for me.
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It's not a big motorcycle, just a groovy little motor bike. |
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07-12-2012, 07:39 PM
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#5 |
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Studly Adventurer
Joined: May 2011
Oddometer: 511
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I was wondering about that... I'm only 165cm - 5'6"
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Here.... my XR250 leaner side car build http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=716993 |
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07-12-2012, 09:02 PM
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#6 |
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Studly Adventurer
Joined: Oct 2011
Location: nm
Oddometer: 774
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Thanks, looking at the peg location you would not gain anything at your hieght. Any lower looks like you could drag a peg!
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07-12-2012, 09:34 PM
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#7 | |
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Gnarly Adventurer
Joined: Jul 2006
Location: Redmond WA
Oddometer: 290
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Quote:
Dave |
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07-12-2012, 11:19 PM
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#8 |
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Studly Adventurer
Joined: Jan 2012
Oddometer: 993
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Lower pegs as far as they will go, and while you are at it it would also be a good idea to fit modern brackets which will accept any trials rest. Your pegs at the moment also like like they are at the wrong angle, and lining replacements up with the set tube is a good idea in most cases. Steering angle on the old Monts is also a long way out, and like the TLR Honda steepening in up a few degrees will make your bike an awful lot better.
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07-13-2012, 12:27 AM
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#9 | |
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Studly Adventurer
Joined: May 2011
Oddometer: 511
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Quote:
In fact I was very tempted to put pivot pegs on it.. Have them on my XT660R they are great.. Steering angle... what sort of Rake & Trail should I be looking at..
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Here.... my XR250 leaner side car build http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=716993 Pete-NZ screwed with this post 07-13-2012 at 12:34 AM |
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07-13-2012, 03:51 AM
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#10 |
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Studly Adventurer
Joined: Jan 2012
Oddometer: 993
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Pivot pegs seem very heavy to me, and not sure they are that great an idea for trials bikes? If you alter head angle to put the stanchions at 25-26 degrees, the handling will be greatly improved.
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07-13-2012, 11:39 AM
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#11 |
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Gnarly Adventurer
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I recently had to decide where to put the footrests on my SWM... they were all a bit high and too far forward back in that era!!
I have replaced the top yoke on mine so the bars are slightly further forward so i waited until i had the yokes and bars fitted and put the bike on a stand that allowed me to take the riding position to see how it felt.. They needed to go down a bit and slightly rearward. On the SWM there is a nice frame plate to allow for welding, cutting, drilling whatever but i knew i wouldn't get it right first time so i made some hanger plates and drilled countersunk holes in them to allow repositioning. As it turned out my first guess was about right but instead of welding them on i have left them bolted... just needs two more holes drilled if i want to change the position again. The bare plates before painting and drilling ... ![]() And after being bolted in place... about 2 inches lower and an inch and a half rearward.
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r2wtrials.co.uk |
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07-13-2012, 11:23 PM
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#12 |
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Studly Adventurer
Joined: Jan 2012
Oddometer: 993
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Might be worth checking if your Betor shocks have the latest type seals fitted (blue in colour), as a large batch were made with faulty seals fitted, which will generally fail after 2-3 trials.
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07-14-2012, 02:34 AM
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#13 |
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Gnarly Adventurer
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Yes they are the latest ones... i was sent them to test :)
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r2wtrials.co.uk |
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07-14-2012, 06:25 AM
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#14 |
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Studly Adventurer
Joined: Jan 2012
Oddometer: 993
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I guess Betor probably need all the help they can get bearing in mind the 900 pairs of faulty shocks currently in circulation!
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07-14-2012, 07:10 AM
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#15 |
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Riff Raff
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